:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: t_cel_t on March 16, 2009, 02:55:10 AM
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i dont know hondas very well, i searched the interwebs and find conflicting facts.
d16 or d15, interference? or not?
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i dont know hondas very well, i searched the interwebs and find conflicting facts.
d16 or d15, interference? or not?
again?
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almost forgot ;D
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F77.247.179.169%2Fimages%2Ffull%2F13%2F847%2F847098604.jpg&hash=353d21f36a62a4f57ce7e35e95c53667c5ecdfae)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F77.247.179.169%2Fimages%2Ffull%2F15%2F156%2F1568636762.jpg&hash=45f6377db5c978cfad2aaad5823cccf33ab23fa0)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F77.247.179.169%2Fimages%2Ffull%2F41%2F183%2F1832389666.jpg&hash=c5df6629ffea59c1be1d1f95376833352228a90e)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2F77.247.179.169%2Fimages%2Ffull%2F41%2F103%2F1035862591.jpg&hash=21a30df5974ae54824b317de2c3dda5c555e8d03)
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i dont know hondas very well, i searched the interwebs and find conflicting facts.
d16 or d15, interference? or not?
again?
well it aint my fucking fault nobody fucking knows
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i believe all d-series are interference, but i could be wrong. i do know that any d16 with standard length eagle/scat/tt/etc rods and vitara pistons is non-interference due to how low the pistons sit in the deck combined with their deep dish.
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i dont know hondas very well, i searched the interwebs and find conflicting facts.
d16 or d15, interference? or not?
again?
well it aint my fucking fault nobody fucking knows
Post is getting better..
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do i have to go to the junkyard with a chunk of clay to figure it out
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all d series is interference. unless vitaras are used with standard length rods... the compression drops so low that the piston does not come all the way up to deck.
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all d series is interference. unless vitaras are used with standard length rods... the compression drops so low that the piston does not come all the way up to deck.
is there an echo in here?
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ill interfere with your ds ad and fuck yuor mom in the vcorn hole :somb: :noel:
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shit im stupid....
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fuck
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fuck
indeed
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fuck
someone has some bent valves...
in for pics of carnage
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no there was a really good deal on craigslist for a civic, the guy was getting it ready to show and the belt broke. i may just go buy it anyway, you got to understand the junk yards around here think their shit is gold, i wouldnt put it past them that they would want $1200 for a d15.
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really they go for 100 bucks here . where do u live?
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madison wi
i needed an ecu for a 5efe (toyota paseo) and the fuckers wanted 600, i left it sitting on their counter
they dont understand actual value
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thats retarded. ecus here are like 35 bucks. theres deals out there. just gotta know where to look. we have a pick a part here. shits dirt cheap. just hope they have what u need.
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Yes the are interface. In reality all it has is a couple bent valves not hard to fix nor expensive. Or just buy a stock head and throw it on
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i emailed the guy back but he hasnt replied, he was convinced that it had to go to a junk yard
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slap a belt on her and shes good to go.
I popedd 4 or 5 T belts in D's and they keep on going
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slap a belt on her and shes good to go.
I popedd 4 or 5 T belts in D's and they keep on going
Agreed, I broke the belt on my first CRX and it ran just fine with a new one slapped on.
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slap a belt on her and shes good to go.
I popedd 4 or 5 T belts in D's and they keep on going
Agreed, I broke the belt on my first CRX and it ran just fine with a new one slapped on.
that shit is always worth a try, you're gonna need a new belt either way
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according to Honda, ALL Honda motors are interference.... (excluding Passports... but those dont have Honda motors, and arent even Honda's...)
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it might not have bent valves. just because its interference doesnt mean the valves will hit. buy it and throw a belt on it. 30 mins and $20 later youll know.
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slap a belt on her and shes good to go.
I popedd 4 or 5 T belts in D's and they keep on going
Agreed, I broke the belt on my first CRX and it ran just fine with a new one slapped on.
that shit is always worth a try, you're gonna need a new belt either way
Agreed I have had 2 d15b2, 3d15b7, 3d15b8 come to with broken belts and everyone of them left me running strong with just a new belt. ;D
But every stock v-tec d-series I worked on I end up replacing at least 2-valves usually on the exhaust side. :yes:
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Iv bought civics for dirt money with broken T belts, tell the owner it will need an engine.
tow it home slap one in and up for sale she goes.
Iv snaped them at idle, 200kph, 100kph, they live!
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x10 on just replacing the belt
I broke a timing belt last weekend, just replaced the belt and all is well.
it might not have bent valves. just because its interference doesnt mean the valves will hit. buy it and throw a belt on it. 30 mins and $20 later youll know.
I want to see this 30min timing belt change. And my auto zone belt was $33
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you can do a D belt in 20 min
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you can do a D belt in 20 min
yea but i'm way ocd and i'm super parinoid about messing the timing up when i have to set no1 at tdc and get it right from scratch
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I must really suck. The crank pulley always slows me down.
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your not alone on the crank pulley bolt issue I usually :
1. Put the car in park w/ e-brake on.
2. turn the stearing wheel to farthest left I can.
3. Grab a jack stand to use as a pivot point.
4. grab only a 6-pt. 17mm socket for a 1/2 racket.
5. use a 10" or long 1/2 extention w/ socket on one end and the other end resting on top
of the jack stand.
6. grab either a large strap wrench and wrap around the largest pulley on the crank, or get
Honda's crank pulley tool and jam the lever end either to the ground or part of the frame.
7. grab a pipe about 5' to 6' long put on the 1/2" racket and connect the racket to the
extension.
8. With all the tools in place and the 1/2" extension resting on the jack stand position the
racket parallel with the ground slowly stand on the pipe the cheater pipe.
9. you will here a loud pop sound to signal the crank bolt has broken loose.
I have tried using an impact wrench on this even the 1000 ft-lb type and had no success.
I manage to make this work on a total of 23 d-series, 4 a-series, and 5 b-series successfully and as a routine I can get the bolt off in about 10 to 15 min. ;D
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your not alone on the crank pulley bolt issue I usually :
1. Put the car in park w/ e-brake on.
2. turn the stearing wheel to farthest left I can.
3. Grab a jack stand to use as a pivot point.
4. grab only a 6-pt. 17mm socket for a 1/2 racket.
5. use a 10" or long 1/2 extention w/ socket on one end and the other end resting on top
of the jack stand.
6. grab either a large strap wrench and wrap around the largest pulley on the crank, or get
Honda's crank pulley tool and jam the lever end either to the ground or part of the frame.
7. grab a pipe about 5' to 6' long put on the 1/2" racket and connect the racket to the
extension.
8. With all the tools in place and the 1/2" extension resting on the jack stand position the
racket parallel with the ground slowly stand on the pipe the cheater pipe.
9. you will here a loud pop sound to signal the crank bolt has broken loose.
I have tried using an impact wrench on this even the 1000 ft-lb type and had no success.
I manage to make this work on a total of 23 d-series, 4 a-series, and 5 b-series successfully and as a routine I can get the bolt off in about 10 to 15 min. ;D
Thanks,
Using this later, bet i'll break a few extensions though
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my 50 dollar 3/4 inch impact from harbor freight breaks all d/b crank pulleys off. Only had like 2 that didnt want to go. Went and borrowed my buddies 3/4 inch earthquake and the zipped right off
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I usually pull the starter and have a friend jam a screw driver in the flywheel teeth. Then 1/2" breaker bar with 4ft cheater.
I love HF, I may have to pick up one of those impact guns.
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I use my teeth
put a little anti-seize on the backside of the crankbolt washer when re-installing. Beau swears by it.
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I just use a 5 lbs hammer on a 1/2" drive breaker bar, put the car in 5th, with the e-brake on wheels chocked, then smash the breaker bar with the hammer.
OR
I get a big nigger like Brine04 to come over and just manhandle the breaker bar. O0
OR
The one time I had sufficient air to use my Snap On XT7100, it smashed it out in about 3 rattles.
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this is why everyone should take there car for a oil change and ask them to undo your crank bolt once and tq it back in for you.
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this is why everyone should take there car for a oil change and ask them to undo your crank bolt once and tq it back in for you.
You are fucking nuts, those pit jockeys are too stupid to tighten a drain plug, you want them near a crank bolt?
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not a fast lube
go to a reputable shop or a dealer
even better you guys have to have a friend with shop?