:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Fabrication => Topic started by: HiProfile on July 27, 2010, 10:06:42 PM
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Well my del slut has a problem getting too hot, since the radiator is crustier than Rick P's snatch. So I got a CDM radiator for the Civic, and giving the old one to the del sol. If it can cool a turbo d16, it should work on a stock b16, right?
Since I don't trust the CDM bullshit, I decided I wanted to pressure test it. The auto parts stores rent-a-tool stuff usually blows, and...I have all these spare parts. So I grabbed a random 100psi gauge, spare nipples, and hoes. I didn't have a valve (the air nozzle leaks), so I used a vice-grips and some pennys to clamp the hose. The picture should say it all, and then some:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg191.imageshack.us%2Fimg191%2F1691%2Fradtester1.jpg&hash=f179e908f3627a03159c959f95df9e8194bc9d23)
So far it's held 18psi for half an hour. Since it's dark out, I use the needle's shadow from the flashlight to tell if it moves a fraction of a psi. BTW This isn't a show car - I drive this almost daily to work.
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Cool way to make sure the valve in your radiator cap works.
:P
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Cool way to make sure the valve in your radiator cap works.
:P
I was thinking the same thing...
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Cool way to make sure the valve in your radiator cap works.
:P
I was thinking the same thing...
this.
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lol
try squeezing the rad hoses, do they feel like they are holding 18 psi back. :P
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Hey I'm no hotrex when it comes to radiators...(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fibankdesign.com%2Fboard%2Fstyle_emoticons%2Fdefault%2Fdunce.gif&hash=83d3add9bc3812902b3d7f728be0662982ca0950) I put a piece of rubber under the cap so air moves into the system (rubber band so it wouldn't drop in). I also cracked the upper rad hose, and it definately was under pressure. As air leaked out, the pressure on the gauge dropped quick.
Actually I could test the cap, just plug this into the IACV return hose, plug the other side, and go at it. Using another line could leave air bubbles somewhere, making you bleed the system. This was the least invasive way.
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Well after getting this cdm crap all buttoned up, I realized the cap they gave me really had no lower/inner seal. It would just jet pressure to the overflow tube. And of course, they didn't use the same size cap as the Civic it was made for.
So after a lot of detective work, the cheap cap I got at autozone is the same one they use on EF's and DA's. 32x16mm instead of an EG's 31x10mm cap. I almost want to get the Stant 10361, 19-21psi...
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Well after getting this cdm crap all buttoned up, I realized the cap they gave me really had no lower/inner seal. It would just jet pressure to the overflow tube. And of course, they didn't use the same size cap as the Civic it was made for.
So after a lot of detective work, the cheap cap I got at autozone is the same one they use on EF's and DA's. 32x16mm instead of an EG's 31x10mm cap. I almost want to get the Stant 10361, 19-21psi...
Good info. I may try that 10361 on my CDM 2-core. ;D
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I almost want to get the Stant 10361, 19-21psi...
What's stopping you, panties chafing?
The whole idea behind an aluminum radiator is being able to run a higher pressure cap. Yet, no one does it because they are worthless ricer faggots.
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Also, keep in mind your radiator hoses might not like those pressures. I have aluminum hard pipe with 3 ply silicone couplers for one of my cars for this exact reason - build thread coming sometime 2017.
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I'm not racing it, plut it's a single-core double-wide radiator. ATM the 13psi cap I have is doing fine, along with the stock fan. I only go this because my beater needed a rad, and I didn't see much sense getting a new stock rad for a car that won't see another 10k miles. If the other hadn't take a shit, I'd have stayed with the stock radiator.