:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: yamaha6611 on February 10, 2010, 11:02:55 PM
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im a big fan of doing shit right, but sometimes, i need to make shit work... lemme know what you think i can do...
i dont want that hose to kink up when it gets warm, braided shit just kinks real bad...
which sucks, cause the oil pan has a -10AN fitting on it, and so does my oil drain out of the turbo, both ported...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi212.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fcc43%2Fyamaha6611%2FCIMG1452.jpg&hash=61639797586fe5f475ebd1d6a585345570eaa0ec)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi212.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fcc43%2Fyamaha6611%2FCIMG1453.jpg&hash=9ed24c5e465027cdec7b70158ce3c58b0b8f454b)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi212.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fcc43%2Fyamaha6611%2FCIMG1454.jpg&hash=2d67999b07eafb4b05b9e2827c463b60be47fd8c)
will it work, too ghetto?
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ditch the an fittings.
put a hose barb on the return flange and call it a day
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Is that heater hose? That shit is going to swell up and split once it gets oil in it.
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its not heater hose its just that general advanced hose
not sure what heats going to do to it
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its not heater hose its just that general advanced hose
not sure what heats going to do to it
Crack and leak. Do what flipnog said
/thread
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Go to hydraulic shop and get some real hose. Then do the spring thing.
Or do a piece of hard line, and use small bits of the hose to clamp it on.
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well heres what else i can do... to get rid of that rediculous 90 deg. braided hose deal, i can just move the -10AN fitting down about 6 inches to the left, it will get rid of all that kinking, but i dont know if that will be too flat of a drain then
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Go to hydraulic shop and get some real hose. Then do the spring thing.
Or do a piece of hard line, and use small bits of the hose to clamp it on.
House of hose FTW
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that setup is fine. ive used heater hose for return line before. it gets soft after a bit but just replace it every 6 months and youll be fine. ive never had one actually fail and leak.
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that setup is fine. ive used heater hose for return line before. it gets soft after a bit but just replace it every 6 months and youll be fine. ive never had one actually fail and leak.
+1 my experiences exactly.
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I'd rotate the CHAR a bit so the the oil line was directed more towards the pan. Then you are stuck with barbed fittings, hose clamps, and line.
I will say, I really don't like hose clamps and SS braided line. I had to put 2 or 3 clamps on the damn line at the oil pan for it not to leak. It was pretty trashy and I wasn't pleased with it.
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that setup is fine. ive used heater hose for return line before. it gets soft after a bit but just replace it every 6 months and youll be fine. ive never had one actually fail and leak.
+1 my experiences exactly.
+2 I've used heater hose several times. It has never bursted on me before. It'll be fine.
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that setup is fine. ive used heater hose for return line before. it gets soft after a bit but just replace it every 6 months and youll be fine. ive never had one actually fail and leak.
+1 my experiences exactly.
+2 I've used heater hose several times. It has never bursted on me before. It'll be fine.
+3 This is the first I have heard of this, but I wouldnt doubt it. Ive been running heater hose from Lowes for the past 2 years. Although, I seem to change my set-up every winter, so it keeps getting replaced.
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Honestly dudes, I know heater hose works and everything, because I've used it as a temp fix, but go to a real hose shop and get something rated for gas/oil use. You will thank yourself later on.
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WTF to ghetto do you know your at heater hose + ducktape wrapped around ftw
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WTF to ghetto do you know your at heater hose + ducktape wrapped around ftw
This is rhmt there is no suck thing as to ghetto!
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On one of my old dsm's the flex section broke on the drain, so I cut the pipe in two and patched it with heater hose, smeared RTV on the inside of the hose to prevent the oil from killing it. I drove it like that for 2 years, and saw quite a few 1/8th mile passes before I sold it. No leaks.
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that setup is fine. ive used heater hose for return line before. it gets soft after a bit but just replace it every 6 months and youll be fine. ive never had one actually fail and leak.
+1 my experiences exactly.
I've done it too, but it makes such a fucking mess as it deteriorates. There is oil and temperature rated rubber hose you can use for $6-8 a foot, and frankly the cool coil spring sheathe will protect the hose from most of the shit that makes me not willing to run a rubber drain on any car of mine.
Also, you just need to get a certain quantity of oil away from the turbo. This is not hard. You can make a box of a certain VOLUME right underneath the turbo with a shallow angle drain shooting back to the oil pan.
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that shit is close,
if you want to get rid of the kink, just go down to shucks (or what ever the fuck its called) walk strait in the back like own the place, and grab whatever oem radiator hose that has a 90 in it and looks like it will fit.
if you want oil rated hose, just get some parker push-lok (cheap) a hose barb turbo outlet, and a hosebarb 90, i dont know what else you could do without pulling the pan off.
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Order silicoln hose that flexes, problem solved. Fuck ill even ship you some for shipping charges
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yea imean its all good but i dunno, my shit has to be done right right, so, in my mind, i should be using AN line and fittings.. im thinking of fabbing some metal line thats 5/8in or something and just tacking it on to the AN fittings right over the tapered part... that way, no cracks, no leaks, no worrying about loose clamps and shit, thats oil , im way too worried lol
just dunno how the metal hose it going to take engine movement...
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AN fittings are not that great. They don't use them in any OEM turbo'd cars that I know of....
Barbed fittings are fine. Just use high quality return line. I just had to put 2-3 host clamps on the SS line because it was so stiff....
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AN fittings are not that great. They don't use them in any OEM turbo'd cars that I know of...
Its because of the price, AN fittings/lines/hoses are the best way to go. I work on $60million jets where prices dont matter and all the hydraulic and engine oil/fuel lines are all AN/MS shit. Its easy(ish) to make, remove/install and can hold 3000+psi without leaking a drop.
As for the OP's problem, making a hardline would probably be the best but if you can get that auto parts store shit to make the bend you can get some AN hose ends for that hose. That picture doesnt really do justice since is still hard to tell how much room you have.
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yea imean its all good but i dunno, my shit has to be done right right, so, in my mind, i should be using AN line and fittings.. im thinking of fabbing some metal line thats 5/8in or something and just tacking it on to the AN fittings right over the tapered part... that way, no cracks, no leaks, no worrying about loose clamps and shit, thats oil , im way too worried lol
just dunno how the metal hose it going to take engine movement...
I was thinking about that, you just have to have the metal line, make the correct bend, slide the nuts and the flare stop on and flare the tubing, it will be very professional like :-\
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Holy fuck! Its not brain surgery here! Keep it simple!
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yeah your making this harder than it needs to be. who gives a fuck what the guy at the quick lube thinks of your setup
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Green garden water hose FTW O0
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Green garden water hose FTW O0
+1
Or very large vacuum hose
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garden hose + aluminum foil DP was an inch away.
it held together longer than the engine lasted.
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i used heater hose for a drain on every setup pussys
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i used heater hose for a drain on every setup pussys
You lunched a couple engines, if I remember correctly.
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Zing?
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I've used high temp silicone hose from the local auto parts stores for all my oil returns. Never had a problem... Just look in the Gates book at the counter. If you don't like the look of hose clamps Gates also makes heat shrink hose clamps too...
I also stretch throttle return springs and stuff them in the hose to keep it from kinking. Just make sure to bend the ends of the spring in to prevent them from poking through the hose.
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but go to a real hose shop and get something rated for gas/oil use. You will thank yourself later on.
I can vouch for that. ONLY use the hi-temp coolant hose if it says fuel/oil on it. Some places may use oil-rated lines for their better hi-temp coolant hose, but many DO NOT. I used cheap shit on my recirculated PS lines, and the cheap hose ballooned out and leaked through it's WALLS after 2 months. Made a mess, and even worse to remove it. It felt like trying to pull the tampon out of hotrex's mom, all slimey and shit.
My suggestion is to do the hose/spring thing, but to also re-weld a barbed steel nipple on the pan at a 45*, as well as weld a barbed nipple onto the oil drain. A chunk of 1/4" thick steel sanded flat with 3 holes is a perfect start...
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Using bent hardline is another option if you are afraid of the hose.