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[NoPistons!]

I Would dispense great feces in my shoes seeing that go down after all this time/work.  Still no idle.  Not surprising.  First megasquirt. Fresh motor/fuel lines/all that shit....and mother nature.  Because i should have bought a carport and enclosed it years ago....fucking idiot.  Less about me failing.  More about the car's progress as of this immediate moment.


I pulled the number one plug wire and stuck it to the strut tower.   Maybe my ignition relay isn't right or what.  I'm not sure.  the 4th crank over she ALMOST started yet plug on strut tower yields no spark. 

She's not acting like she's 180 out.  I popped the dizzy cap off and i'm verifying number 1 at tdc on compression stroke.  Well was before it started raining.   Here i sit.  Hey, random phat ass white girl with crazy hair and tats...



I will have to check my coil relay as well.  DIdn't want to direct draw so i have some fatty 12 gauge running that straight from the batt to relay to coil.  Triggering from 12v on a 20a fuse.  Maybe that fuse quit?  Bout to give that a lookover too and make sure it's operating.   


Maybe today, maybe tomorrow.  Nothing want's to cooperate.


Good news is both sensors and my wideband are functioning IN THE CAR.  Map sensor is reading correctly.  Injectors are firing (may try simulaneous injection over alternating batch fire? anyone object?) and i def have cas signal to the megajizz and she DOES crank and DID act like she wanted to start.  Could play with cranking pulswidth also.  May be too high...

My dick literally twitched when i heard exhaust pulse from the downpipe when she was being a tease......  I'm still shaking thinking about it.  I saw her "side boob" for the first time.

[Joseph Davis]

For the love of god (the white nordic sissy in the nightie, not that allah fellow) don't post any more tranny porn.

Thanks.

[turbohf]

For the love of god (the white nordic sissy in the nightie, not that allah fellow)...

sig. 

[NoPistons!]

For the love of god (the white nordic sissy in the nightie, not that allah fellow) don't post any more tranny porn.

Thanks.

 The disappointing and horrified look on faces i wish i could have seen. Feelings i had when i was told to "google blue waffle" and was stupid enough to do it.   More or less that was in response to nigger this, nigger that. It's not nearly as offensive as using google with the safe search off, scrolling and wanting to gouge the top half of your own head off with a buck knife.....


There had better not be dick chick in this thread.   *angry stare*








Back on motherfuckin topic.  Lol.        Played around with tuner studio settings to get somewhere and still not much improvement.   I dunno what the fuck.  I haven't got a clue.  This is why we troubleshoot.  THe cas disk is under a plate held in by two screws.  This thing is so fucking old i had to drill one out.  My drill had it's chance to have the cord repaired today over it.  I swear if anyone saw that short out and my reaction they would have died laughing.  Here's what i found.   Of course it's 60* trigger six slot as i expected.  THe fact there's a square slit and 5 normal slits may have me onto something.....i hope.  Bout to get the decoder disk and go get some more distributors maybe. Asked questions, did some more homework and hopefully a solution is found soon. 





Get this.  Spark plug one doesn't arc off at all.   That square is right under plug one.  Check my sharpie mark for the cyl 1 point.  I will try testing out on the others tomorrow hopefully!  If this is the issue i'll be pumped.  When i did this procedure the engine acted like it wanted to go into "RUN".     When i was taking this apart the rotor screw was allowing the rotor to rattle around freely.....hmmmmmm!  So maybe trigger sync with the falling edge of the square and the other 5 slits is off enough to mess with things and i just need to do a bit more adjustment.....so i hope. 




Fuck wiring.   Still got plenty left after the efi portion is tidied in.   Aint scurred.

[NoPistons!]

J30 sohc 3rd gen maxima dizzy.  The square slot is about 160* away from the end of the rotor.  Where as the other dizzy was right under the end of the rotor.  Maybe 5* in relation to it.

That's irrelevant considering i'm still getting tach signal/injector click click.  Just no spark output.  Either it's the coil (ohm'd out to fsm spec so doubtful), coil wiring (poles mixed up?) or my board connections for my coil driver (onboard unit) are incorrect DESPITE following the manuals instructions the letter.....   So in fear of washign my rings down i unplugged power to the injectors and am focusing solely on spark now.... 

It's now 7pm so banks are closed.  TOmorrow i'll be ordering my LC-1.    Bpsx is officially on some fuck shit.  Will read some numbers.  Just not display afr.  I calibrated it once and it was giving me 13.80 or something in the pipe (slam full of fuel vapor).  Then i cut the car off and it goes back to reading weird shit like it was during pre-calibration.  Now it wont read AFR at all regardless of button mashing sequences and i'd like nothing more than to string Rick P up from the nearest tree with the wire harness from it.  That's my experience with it.  Fucking junk.  Didn't fuck with ego/wideband switch points either.  Still at 100kpa for open loop to run off my fueling tables.

[NoPistons!]

Getting spark and almost idle.  Either not enough air, shit fuel, combo of both.

D5 on my board wasn't jumpered.  I had the option to do that or not do that.  Diagram didn't show it.  Jumped it and got spark.  Improvement over yesteraday.


Def have a fuel line leak.  Probably did not tighten a clamp down fully.  My drain line is leaking also leading me to believe i AM getting oil pressure.  Pickup is doing it's job. 

I am NOT running an idle air control valve at the moment.  WIre ran, just no provisions.  Broke the bolt off for it unless i can make something to tap into one of the various large threaded ports doing nothing on my intake.....   idk.  I'm pretty drunk, exhausted, i have OFF! on, alot of it.  Mosquitos are like inches from my face.   I'll see what happens in the morning.  Gonna hit a few people up and see wtf i'm doing wrong.   

I do have the tps open somewhat to allow a little bit of air to get in.   I give it some more go pedal (slight amount, maybe 10 percent) and she dies.   Longest idle was 10 seconds.  She blat blats so hard at 850 rpm.

[carkrazed]

I have never ran an IAC with MS and never had problems getting it to idle.

Are you working off of a base map or just the default starting point in tuner studio?

Have you set your req fuel? Verified timing matches on MS and engine? Turned off all the accell enrichments, Ego control etc? Really, if you are starting from scratch, you want to turn off everything that controls fuel. Do this until you begin to get the map dialed in.

Also, I have a pretty sweet dash I made up for TS if you want it. The stock gauge layout sucks.

[NoPistons!]

That's pretty sick.  The font hurts my eyes though.


My standard settings were off.  Required fuel was spot on though.  i did go off a basemap from someones 2010 shit.  370cc map.  I used their standard settings and changed required fuel for my injectors.  However i found this today and was way the fuck off track.  Have since changed settings for rx7 injectors and see where that gets.  Battery died.  Pathfinder wouldn't charge it (brand new battery, i just drained it the past 3 days of trying to get it to run) and i will pick it up from advanced auto tomorrow.  If they weren't 800 feet from my house i'm not sure what i'd do.

Here's what i found on hybridz.com in their megasquirt section.  Giving credit where it's due because i didn't come up with this shit on my own.  http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/55910-injector-opening-times-spread-sheet/   I had pw current percent jacked up to 100%.  pw threshold was at something stupid high like 20 or something.  I forget.  I've spent no less than 40 hours on tuner studio in the past 4 days going through stuff and seeing what i may have fucked up and cross reffing wherever i can.  I do know base timing is like 20* at 750 rpm.  Some have gone to 12-15* at 750rpm and been fine.  I could NOT find a stock map.  I spent maybe 8 months looking without luck.   


Ordered my LC1 thismorning.  I would like to know what my brief whatever idle is at.  I contacted bpsx, let em know what was up and they're helping me out in my best interest.  That's fucking legit.  So yeah, haters gonna hate i guess and then try to sway others to feel the same.  You know what happens to stupid fucking lambs?  They get a nail in the head and turn into rugs and chops.  Dont let that be you.

[NoPistons!]

Ah, new new news.


First thing i changed was my injector settings to rx7 injectors.  Granted na fc injectors are actually 460cc, not 450cc.  Someone got their numbers wrong.  But i tweaked around with that and things got better.

That yielded way stronger start up.  Like she wants to run.  I know she's roughly in time.  When i kill the fuel pump she'll draw all the remainder of the pressure out of the line and idle until there's no more gas.  I cut the pump on and she drowns/floods.  When i open the throttle the slightest bit to add some air, she dies.

Plugs are gapped to .30  Spent 3 hours fucking around today in the heat trying to get things sorted just chasing my own ass in circles so maybe i'll find some more intell to help out.   Would love to get a nice smooth idle.  Been hearing it COULD be my distributor STILL.  Fucksake i got two of em.  Both do about the same shit on this car.  Both came from the same engine and have the same optical pickup.  Just the square slot is in different locations.  MS probably resets using that.   

Now i'm using standard MSNS distributor "ON" at the moment.   What happens if i use this setting?




Also not sure if Led 18 needs to be irq trigger or warmup......  I have tried both with similar results.   Fun times.

[carkrazed]

Describe your ignition setup and I may be able to help you out.

Are you using the VR circuit?

[NoPistons!]

Though i did not get spark UNTIL D5 was jumpered.  Took two days before i said "fuck it, i'm going to try it".  Other sources have said to jumper it anyway......

STOCK NISSAN 6 SLOT CAS.  5 even slots, one square.  Optical trigger.  Single coil.  Single ignitor chip/power transistor.  Actually here is the exact ignitor i'm using.



Schematic to the letter to how it's installed on my board.





I set my required fuel as high as 680cc (460cc are in there mind you) and was still getting too much fuel.  I mean if it wanted to act like it was gonna idle after i killed the fuel pump i figured i ask.    Fingers were pointed at my regulator.  I get back from doing some errands, pop the hood, yank the vac line off and sure enough, fuel.     

This would be time to upgrade vs throwing in a stock one.


Edit:  I did trim my ve tables down and was trying to go off 18*-20* timing.   This pains me because good fprs are NOT cheap.  If you know of good workign cheap ones do hit me up.  I'll go cdm IF the shit is rebuildable with legit parts. 


Going CDM.  Turns out Aeromotive diaphragm fits the knock off aeromotive FPR.   

I just ordered the full kit (oil filled gauge, chinamotive regulator, a shitload of -6an fittings and lengths of -6 ss hose) $88 shipped w/1yr warranty....lol.  Warranty.....

My warranty comes in the form of the Aeromotive diaphragm kit 13001.  $31 shipped

More waiting.....   I guess while i'm waiting i can go do some more wiring, lower the ass of the car down more, remove some camber and get my harness mounted.  Can't mount my 3" because i need a pair of these:     If you have them off one of your old out of date harnesses please hit me up in PM.

[carkrazed]

Im on my phone right now but do you have a V2.2 board? Looks like you have the newer diyautotune case so I dont know why you would.

[NoPistons!]

MS1 v2.2 Aladeen.     

Yes that is a new case.  I went with the older board.  Latest version of extra code booted in and as you know i'm tuning with efianalytics tuner studio full version.

[carkrazed]

MS1 v2.2 Aladeen.     

Yes that is a new case.  I went with the older board.  Latest version of extra code booted in and as you know i'm tuning with efianalytics tuner studio full version.

MS1 

I got 2 ms2 processors kickin around. Bought one cause I thought I blew one then I upgraded to ms3.

Can you put a ms2 processor in a v2.2 board?

[NoPistons!]

No idea.  From what i'm seeing i'd need the whole ms2 daughtercard package.  I will do that IF it comes to it but it's pushing it at this point.  I gotta put tires on it and start bleeding/burping stuff after i get the idle/low throttle/off boost part done. 

I'll be giving the trigger disk a drop in ONLY if i can't get everything right after the fuel pressure reg and new wideband are put on.  I will run the LC-1 that just came in stand alone for now and let the VE table and timing loop handle idle control and just adjust my idle mixture close to 14.7

Just going through the normal stuff.  No two cars are alike.  I can't say much about the dizzy stuff because the intel is skattered and inconclusive.   I still have to take apart both my dizzys for a thread regarding the sleeve orientation for the rotor/disk.  Trigger disk either way seems to have nothing to do with what's going on right now.  If it does, i'm prepared.

http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/using_diyautotune_nissan_trigger_discs.htm

So here we sit while i wait on more parts biting my nails hoping this shit works or at least improves the situation.



 With my wb02 sensor mounted here it'd be a good idea to get some copper to make a heat sink out of wouldn't it?

[PhilStubbs]

So, killing the fuel pump makes it run, you pulled your fpr vac line, fuel shot out and you are fucking with ignition? Seriously? Put a Honda fpr on there and start tuning you retard

[NoPistons!]

Retard huh?  Glad i left this sticker on my dash.....









Free air read i got before i stuffed the new sensor into the downpipe.   So hot inside the car my face melted off during the install.


As far as touching ignition i swapped back and forth between two different distributors in because of THIS SHIT:





Look at the square slot in relation to the rotor.  I hope you can see why i was chasing ignition issues first.  I had no spark for two days then found out the clocking was different between both of these dizzys even though they come from the same engine (vg30e).

I created a timing loop so if it falls below a certain point timing advances and increases rpm.  I dont have an iacv.    I know, that's retarded too.  Reading faq's, writeups and instruction manuals is always retarded....

Picked up the trigger wheel because i can.  I wont fuck with it until after the new reg is installed.  I'm going to see what 30psi at idle does on the original map with the new wideband config setup then sending the msq off to a trusted advisor for review before i proceed.

I did some more body painting about 2 days ago. Got a hobo shade tent to drag over me when i start wiring the lights/windows and shit.  Forgot to mention it i think.....  Whatever.  Blue wheels is not working well with this but whenever i got time i'll fix that too.

[Phate]

Falken Hanabi wheels?

[NoPistons!]

Yeah. 

[NoPistons!]

Installed all but trigger disk.   The control is to get it as close as i can with an oem first.   The timing loop i'm generating is still not proper.  CLoser.  Was actually able to get out of the car today and look at the laptop while she was purring, no crazy bratatata coming out of it.  Just smooth running.  As soon as my eyes hit screen, stalled out.  I'm damn close.

Phil, i tried hard to find a linkable tubgirl picture for you without luck....  Strange.   Seems like the lord IS on your side after all.








The little shim the rotor sleeve and disk sits on needs  one of the alignment tabs cut off.  I MIGHT cut off both.  Infinite position clocking regardless of distributor so the canadian z31 faggots can choke on it for trying to tell me what to do.  MEgasquirt doesn't give a fuck about the square slot.  It's only picking up trailing edge and my trigger log looks normal to me with the oe disk.

Annnnnd blue wheels gone.  I dig it.  Cannot cut down exposure/glare on my phone's cam.  Deal with it.

[crxvtec91]

I like the black a lot more.

Whats left to do?

[NoPistons!]

Secure battery (it just sits in the back d/s corner of my trunk for now)

Tuck interior wiring, finish wiring switches for lights.

Tires......

Mount harnesses.

Bleed ps (wont be able to until i can get the car to idle)

Hood pins and new radiator support.  Right now shit is just sitting in place there. 

Wire windows up, maybe single speed wiper nig nog rig setup too.

Rucas and traction rods.   Both need to match in length for adjustment to keep geometry consistent.  Traction rod on the car now are stock.  Rucas are aftermarket but the heims are fucked.   Idk yet.  It's $45 for new rucas shipped and about $38 shipped for traction rods.  CDM of course.  If they last a year they'll have paid for themselves.

......Other than the obvious lack of tuning/idle, that's it.

[ratcityrex]

What are Rucas?

[NoPistons!]

Rear upper control arm.  Needed for camber adjustment on these cars.  However, you can only adjust so much before you completely fuck up the geometry and that's where the traction rod adjustment comes in.  They move in an arc together.


This is the subframe oriented how it would sit on the car.  The curved arm is the ruca.  Strut goes up through there to the chassis.  It's bolted to the knuckle.  Knuckle is bolted to lca.   The traction rod is the shorter orange rod on the left.  The toe rod is the long orange rod on the right.



Orientation on vehicle for better idea how they work together.  Ignore the adjustable rear lower control arm (triangular gold arm) as i wont be running those.  Modded and boxed oem is plenty strong and good enough for what i want to do.

[NoPistons!]

I'll be putting screen shots up here and there when i'm not feeling lazy.  Here's the map i'm trying to mess with.


the obvious cells are from 100kpa and under between 500-700-1300.  That's where i'm trying to create my timing loop for idle.

This base uses an iacv.   I haven't tweaked it up on the car yet.  Just put this one together. 


Want to do this too.  http://www.d-series.org/forums/diy-forum/95756-diy-electronic-detonation-detection-det-cans-under-25-dollars.html  stock nissan knock sensors are garbage.

[NoPistons!]

Forgot the timing map....


This will be the one i play with tomorrow.



Fuel pressure reg drops from 40 to 0 real quick after i shut the car off.  Gas pissing all over the underside of the car near the tank...  Might have something to do with it.  Fuckin v band leaks pre 02 sensor now.

Longest idle today with timing advance higher up than the above map was 16 seconds.  Was able to get a loop.  Just was losing more power than gaining it.  Probably had some knock going on too....   I did opt to let my wb02 handle fuel below a certain tps value much like the oems do.  That helped smooth it a little but still surged back and fourth to the point of stall.    Target afr in idle load/rpm ranges are between 14.7 and 14.3.  Because batch fire i may target a little richer.  Actual afr before i noticed shit was pissing out of the car (exhaust/fuel) was hugging between 13.8 and 14.9

Little bit closer.

[PhilStubbs]

Sounds like something isn't sync'd right if you needed more timing that that map

[NoPistons!]

Mechanical timing is anywhere from 15-20* at 750rpm at idle factory


I was running too much timing in the idle ranges.  16* starting out then advancing gradually to 18* as rpm picked up worked better.  That is why my first map was thrown out in favor of this one to play with.

Obviously i'm putting timing at 10* in boost because chicken shit......  Worked for another vg30et msns'er running 22psi to redline just fine so i took their advice to use that as a start point for boost timing.  Off boost timing is pretty ballpark.


I do believe you're right.  I did move my dizzy around a little and she's getting better.  Again, the falling edge of the square slot is dead even with the slits and that's what ms is told to pick up via tuner studio via my lil' panky finger.

Ran around a little bit trying to get tires that fit (the fuck 17's impossible to find in good sizes on craigs for these days?), car is ass up right meow while i sort this fuel leak.  Black widows.  Wasps.  it's a total fucking deathtrap.


Before i forget the following items are now on their way:

1.  Fragola 45* push loc -10an.   Oil drain line's leaky as fuck standard -10 cdm off brand swivel fitting will be thrown at high velocity at the next asshat ricer who runs past my house like they got a pair.

2. Sturrin wheel and hub.  I can't heel toe proper with the oe steering wheel in comfort.  If i dont feel comfortable in the car, what's the point?  Steering wheel is woodgrain as fuck, 350mm and will be overnighted literally from japan.  No telling how many slant eye hands have beasted the mountain or wrecked their shit over a curb into a palm tree with that thing.  Hopefully it brings the car some good karma and keeps my knee from screaming fuck you at me......

3.  RUCA/TRACTION RODS.   Never seen em before.  Ruca has pinch bolt style locking mechanism which i like.  We'll see how those are when they get here.  Paid $89 shipped for new product listed as "s13 camber kit" on ebay.   Take that you jdm whore's who stumbled upon this thinking this shit is ultra jdm, ya fgtsssssss.

4. My GFORCE scca/sfi appoved harnesses came without the shoulder strap mount thingies.  Ordered a pair from summit.  Cost me about $15.  That's good because the passenger can rock the 2" sabelt standard single clasp harness i have and i can use the complicated bulky 3" gforce.  Coincidentally, i sold the one that came with the car for the same price i bought this one for.  So shit will be safe.    I need seatbelts.  I can't drive my best if i dont feel comfortable and safe.


Uh....that's about all i got.  I'll snap some shots from under the car at my ruca/coilover/subframe shit so you can see how it looks.  Def not rust treated or baller......  Proud of my bright ass green coilovers though.  They ever blow i'm sending em to fortune auto so they can work their magic.  I have a place about 5 minutes from my address i can weigh my car.  Cornerbalance is a different story.


Yes i post intoxicated.  Just from now on not in the efi section of rhmt.   Jd threatened to shove the bus up my ass with great force, powdered graphite as lubricant.

[carkrazed]

Mechanical timing is anywhere from 15-20* at 750rpm at idle factory

What do you mean anywhere from 15-20? You need to hold the timing in the MS and then set it at the engine. It shouldn't be fluctuating like that when your trying to set it.

[ratcityrex]

Sweet deal man. Ready for some ripper vids......