:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: bigwig on November 02, 2009, 05:21:17 AM
-
I'm nuts. I have enough money to build one of these: http://superlitecars.com/roadster_spec.html (http://superlitecars.com/roadster_spec.html)
What engine/tranissmion should I use?
Goals:
-Stock Engine/transmission.
-Cost Effective
-"Tuning" Friendly
-200+hp
The obvious choices:
-K24/K20A2(turbo'd after)
-SRT-4
-Cobalt SS
-Some B-series hybrid thing
-Mitsubishi 4G63
PS: This probably will never get built, but it's 4:20AM EST and there is nothing good OnDemand.
-
h23vtec
-
92-95 civic with a stock D16z6, it's a lot of fun, but you will eventually want more.
-
its light as shit so something that doesnt make a ton of torque which rules out srt4 and 4g63.
the ecotec motors are homo.
the obvious choice is a k series given the options listed on the site. that thing would be pretty retarded with a 250whp all motor k.
unless you want an excessive amount of power then a 6 bolt or srt4 motor will both reliably make and handle 450whp.
-
since I am honda biased, and I don't believe that any of the motors listed are better than the k series, plus all the ones I saw in here has k series motors, or cosworth built/turboed k series motors. if I chose anything other than a kseries or a hybrid b series, it would be the EVO 8 motor, screw srt4, screw cobalt. both of those motors outperform srt/cobalt in stock, and modified form.
-
h23vtec
Serious response? In theory, I can see a H22/H23 not being an awful choice, but in reality, I can't see myself going that direction.
92-95 civic with a stock D16z6, it's a lot of fun, but you will eventually want more.
You convinced me. Close the thread.
its light as shit so something that doesnt make a ton of torque which rules out srt4 and 4g63.
the ecotec motors are homo.
the obvious choice is a k series given the options listed on the site. that thing would be pretty retarded with a 250whp all motor k.
unless you want an excessive amount of power then a 6 bolt or srt4 motor will both reliably make and handle 450whp.
The weight distribution on these cars actually puts a good amount of weight over the rear tires. I believe from what I read it was about 1000lbs in the back and 600lbs in the front. I don't think a Srt4 or 4g63 would be an issue, but I also agree the car really doesn't need low end torque.
As for power, I think 250whp is a good starting place. It should be able to be in a similar world as a 400whp AWD vehicle. At the same time, I'd like to be able to turbo charge the car at a later date. Being competitive with modified EVOs and STIs is not really that impressive. Where a car like this shines is the fact it is half the weight of anything else. So it only needs to make 1 hp for every 2 almost every other car in the planet has to make. So 300-350whp, the car will be incredibly quick. Quicker than just about everything around. The only issue with the lower hp value is getting up to higher mph's, where the higher hp vehicles will be able to hit those higher speeds.
In short, 250whp is great to start with, but to beat Vettes, high HP AWD cars, GT500s, Porches, Vipers, and all of those other faggot mobiles, 250whp is going to be a limiting factor, especially on a horsepower track(lots of long straights). This is all under the assumption, driving ability is equal and assumed to be good.
since I am honda biased, and I don't believe that any of the motors listed are better than the k series, plus all the ones I saw in here has k series motors, or cosworth built/turboed k series motors. if I chose anything other than a kseries or a hybrid b series, it would be the EVO 8 motor, screw srt4, screw cobalt. both of those motors outperform srt/cobalt in stock, and modified form.
I think Honda makes great engines. But there are other engines out there and I'm willing to look and listen.
-
D15b2 :P
-
In a super light car the last thing you want is an assload of torque as everything is magnified in a barebones vehicle like that - forget forced induction. I'd go B or K, and in truth the K-series cable shifter just makes sense.
-
In a super light car the last thing you want is an assload of torque as everything is magnified in a barebones vehicle like that - forget forced induction. I'd go B or K, and in truth the K-series cable shifter just makes sense.
I'm not sure I agree, especially with the bolded statement. K-series will be about 225-250whp. That will result in a vehicle that will be about as fast has a EVO/STI with some decent mods and your expensive track cars(Corvette, Viper, Porches, ect). I'm not saying 225-250whp wouldn't be A LOT of fun at first and be impressive around the track. I'm just saying as the same time, if I'm going to go the route of a completely impractical car like this, I don't think I would want to live in the world of "Well, I'm as fast as some random idiot with a new turbo, reflash, and some suspension mods". How embarassing would it be to be as fast as some EVO or Subaru faggot in a car like this? Jesus, it would be almost as bad as being beaten by a guy driving a Miata.
So 13b + K transmission? Track only car, rpms + lack of torque... teehehehe
Cylinders faggot.
-
In a super light car the last thing you want is an assload of torque as everything is magnified in a barebones vehicle like that - forget forced induction. I'd go B or K, and in truth the K-series cable shifter just makes sense.
I'm not sure I agree, especially with the bolded statement. K-series will be about 225-250whp. That will result in a vehicle that will be about as fast has a EVO/STI with some decent mods and your expensive track cars(Corvette, Viper, Porches, ect).
What the fuck are you smoking? It's a ~1300lb open wheel go kart, with drivetrain installed. You'd have to have a 550+ whp Evo or Subaru to roll with it, you're talking about a ten second car. With the low center of gravity and purpose-built suspension/wheelbase it's going to take a hell of a driver to make a topheavy sled like a Corvette beat you after 2-3 track days transform you into a mediochre driver.
-
Actually, Rass, edit that. It's an open wheel deathtrap that you don't want to go over 100 mph in, so you can regear the vehicle to be even faster than that off of the available power.
Exactly like the Super 7 that inspired all of these open frame roadsters, you will find that when driving it the weakest link is you. The thing is a goddamn video game; you cannot shift, steer, or brake fast enough for what the vehicle is actually capable of.
-
In a super light car the last thing you want is an assload of torque as everything is magnified in a barebones vehicle like that - forget forced induction. I'd go B or K, and in truth the K-series cable shifter just makes sense.
I'm not sure I agree, especially with the bolded statement. K-series will be about 225-250whp. That will result in a vehicle that will be about as fast has a EVO/STI with some decent mods and your expensive track cars(Corvette, Viper, Porches, ect).
What the fuck are you smoking? It's a ~1300lb open wheel go kart, with drivetrain installed. You'd have to have a 550+ whp Evo or Subaru to roll with it, you're talking about a ten second car. With the low center of gravity and purpose-built suspension/wheelbase it's going to take a hell of a driver to make a topheavy sled like a Corvette beat you after 2-3 track days transform you into a mediochre driver.
Weights on these vehicles is coming in around 1500lbs without a driver. I'm a skinny guy, so all in, figure around 1650lbs.
You also have to figure 250whp in a vehicle with pretty bad aerodynamics will probably result in poor top end acceleration and poor top speed. This was confirmed by an Aussie that deals these vehicles down there. The cars put down 1.06 at some track there in the rain.
The main event was basically rained out, but the yellow SL-R put down 1:06's on the Friday practice. It's a big HP track, so would see some nice improvement with a little more power. Also a little more track time wouldn't have hurt either.
Source: http://exocars.net/showthread.php?t=4139 (http://exocars.net/showthread.php?t=4139)
I'm not saying the car with 250whp won't be stupid fast. It will easily be faster than most anyone. At some point when you have a car like this, after you are "done" learning to drive well, you are going to want to play with the big boys. 250whp in a 1700lbs car(yea, I rounded up), against a track ready car sponsored by some rich guy, it could very well be a toss up. When it gets down to that, a small frame GT series turbo setup allowing the car to make 300-320whp, will make all the difference. Again, investing in a car like this and not being able to embarrass rich douche bags who have Vipers and Z06 Corvettes takes away the superficial fun.
EDIT: I just want to be clear that I think 225-250whp will be more than enough for the first several seasons. I'm just an argumentative ass that doesn't agree with the stance that 225-250whp will be enough power to beat anything/everything. At some point more power will be beneficial when moving up in class. In a car like this you can either drive poorly and let the power/weight allow you to embarass people, or learn how to drive well. I think I'll need both.
-
against a track ready car sponsored by some rich guy
Most of those aren't fast due to driver related reasons. Money doesn't buy skills.
I can see where a track car would do with 300+, but if you're not dealing with a super small wastegate/decent boost control setup it's going to be a dangerous piece of shit on the street.
Anyway, points noted.
-
I would use a N/A B20 VTEC or D16 little turbo setup :)
-
is it possible to make it street legal?
-
they are street legal in germany, but it cost money for the approval T.U.V (DOT)
-
starquest.
-
Kit cars can be registered afaik, just don't know the details.
When you guys think about it, a heavy lt1'd f-body can smoke the tires enough in stock form. Take more power and cut the weight in half. I think the best solution would be a k20 with a centrifugal SC. You'll have less chance of over-powering it after gear change or turns, and will still get instant boost. It would be loud as fuck tho...
The only problem with the k's is the tranny. If you want to run a lot of power, I'd go with a 2.0L B-series, preferably with something liek an ATI charger or another cetrifugal SC.
-
The only problem with the k's is the tranny.
K-trans is good at 300-350, you just can't drag race (launch) on it without turning the wick down.
-
Modded TDI, and 02M.
-
sideways b-series, and have weir make you an adapter for a s2k tranny.... ;D
-
K series stuff is pricey and the transmissions after fixing 2nd gear still are not up to par with oem b series stuff
-
D15b2
-
B16 + turbo..... Stock block will make plenty of power for that thing.
-
boosted vitara d16a6.
-
first gen sentra ser
-
Does it have to be a 4 Cylinder?
"The LS4 is a 5,328 cc (5.328 L; 325.1 cu in) version of the Generation IV block. Though it has the same displacement as the Vortec 5300 LH6, it differs in that it has an aluminum block rather than an iron one and it uses the same cylinder head as the Generation III LS6 engine.
This engine is adapted for transverse front-wheel drive applications"
Stock rated @ 303hp. And you know how easy LS series engines are to modify.
-
z6/a6, HF manifold gt28rs, vitaras, H beam rods, head work, 59300 cam, can control the power with the twist of a knob :) start with a nice easy 200whp and would have room for 300-350 along with nice response
dont go with a china man turbo, mine is laggy as fuck :(, could be due to my lack of tuning ability
replacement parts will be cheap ad fuck, easy to work on, just have a to work the shift linkage out a bitbut shouldnt be bad.
-
2jz
-
zc
-
LG0
W41
;D
-
460 BBF
-
400M
-
just plugging what I run. 4AGE supercharged. 20v blacktop if emissions and shit isnt an issue Both about 160hp stock
as said earlier you will want more
-
460 BBF
454 BBC
-
Geo 3cyl
-
Geo 3cyl
BBG(Big Block Geo) AKA Geo 4 cylinder.
-
sl-c with turbo j32a swap
-
3sgte.
-
Geo 3cyl
BBG(Big Block Geo) AKA Geo 4 cylinder.
You mean G13B. Learn your Suzukis.
-
if I cared sir...
-
b20vtech
-
if I cared sir...
They were the original engine to get the Vitara pistons swapped in, sir. Not many otherwise stock 1.3 liters will eat 400 whp of boost with a (cast) piston swap.
-
ok
-
FUCK YOU I am so beating you up this weekend.
-
I'll fart on your couch... I'll only be there Friday night
-
Massive Response:
-D16 turbo setup would be pretty awful compared to a OEM B-series high compression build or K-series. No matter what you would do, the power band would be a bit too violent and would place power in the wrong places. I know they are inexpensive and work, but I just can't see myself getting persuaded to go that route. That faggot Bisi would have to volunteer to build me some magical D-series for pennies for me to think about going that route.
-Yes, you can make it street legal in most states. You have to call the DMV and ask for a packet of information on how to title a kit or custom car. Then follow the protocol. Most states want the standard stuff: lights, windshield, wipers, indicators, ect. You need engine documentation. Depending on state, you may or not need SMOG crap.
-I will never put a centrifugal SC on anything, ever. Twin Screw>Roots>Centrifugal. I do have some fears with the K-series faggot transmissions. They aren't cheap enough to break often.
-If I'm buying overpriced engines, I'm buying Honda garbage. If someone gave me a free VW engine if I promised to use it in this vehicle, I'd have to mull it over.
-Shadow, you're retarded.
-B16 is faggot shit no matter how you figure it. If I went B-series, I would only go 1.8L or bigger.
-fysh, as much as I like that idea, I also like the idea of having an open engine bay. Throwing a V8 in with the matching transmission would probably fit, but then I'm cramped. I hate working on tight engine bays. 4 cylinder option is really just for the ease of fitment/working.
-Has to be 4 cylinders for all of you others suggesting larger or less than.
-
gsxr1000 mmm squential tranny
-
Turbo Hayabusa. I mean I'm still partial to a 225whp 380ft.lbs TDI, but I know it's not everyones thing, the turbo busa is a close second.
-
Geo 3cyl
BBG(Big Block Geo) AKA Geo 4 cylinder.
You mean G13B. Learn your Suzukis.
I have enough on my plate to learn, sir. Suzuki engine codes are about item number 0389453095304987 on the list.
-
Turbo Hayabusa. I mean I'm still partial to a 225whp 380ft.lbs TDI, but I know it's not everyones thing, the turbo busa is a close second.
Who has the video of the smart car with the 'busa engine? That is the most gangstur shit, ever, right after tprc and the doube d's and crx2000 in progress
-
Cummins 4BT
-
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fpeople.bath.ac.uk%2Fccsshb%2F12cyl%2Frta96c.jpg&hash=bcf3c760e825d666e7d87e3d0208ff473bb59b44)
-
I know you said stick to 4 bangers, but what about a 6 cyl? You could work with it reasonable enough, and the vq is a pretty nice motor stock, readily supported, responds to mods great and they are tough as nails. They have a great usable powerband too. It may just be a little TOO much down low.
Any pics or drawings of the chassis?
-
vr6... 4 cyl dimensions with displacement!
Overrated from what I am told on here...
-
vr6... 4 cyl dimensions with displacement!
Overrated from what I am told on here...
QFT.
-
SHO 3.2 Yamaha V6. Swap in a set of MTX cams, and use the MTX-IV manual 5 speed trans axle.
With such a lightweight car, the trans-axle ought to survive the punishment just fine.
;D
-
Go big or go home, right?
Turbocharged 5.2L I4
Isuzu 4HK1-TC
-
vr6... 4 cyl dimensions with displacement!
Overrated from what I am told on here...
QFT.
Not overrated when you breathe on them. It's not just that they make 500+ on a stock engine, they also make enough torque to scare an H22.
-
vr6... 4 cyl dimensions with displacement!
Overrated from what I am told on here...
QFT.
Not overrated when you breathe on them. It's not just that they make 500+ on a stock engine, they also make enough torque to scare an H22.
Nonsense. VR6 == trash apparently....
-
vr6... 4 cyl dimensions with displacement!
Overrated from what I am told on here...
QFT.
Not overrated when you breathe on them. It's not just that they make 500+ on a stock engine, they also make enough torque to scare an H22.
Nonsense. VR6 == trash apparently....
Ok.
-
GM 2.5 Tech 4
-
Go big or go home, right?
Turbocharged 5.2L I4
Isuzu 4HK1-TC
All the Jeep guys are going with the 4BT, lol
-
Go big or go home, right?
Turbocharged 5.2L I4
Isuzu 4HK1-TC
All the Jeep guys are going with the 4BT, lol
I have been considering swapping my 6BT and drivetrain into a jeep.
-
vr6... 4 cyl dimensions with displacement!
Overrated from what I am told on here...
QFT.
They also last as long as an H22 at those power levels. If you dont mind Tchain at 50K miles and random electrical problems ok.
Not overrated when you breathe on them. It's not just that they make 500+ on a stock engine, they also make enough torque to scare an H22.
-
The timing chain location on the VR6 is a bit ridiculous.
:D
-
D16z6... ;)
-
vr6... 4 cyl dimensions with displacement!
Overrated from what I am told on here...
QFT.
They also last as long as an H22 at those power levels. If you dont mind Tchain at 50K miles and random electrical problems ok.
Not overrated when you breathe on them. It's not just that they make 500+ on a stock engine, they also make enough torque to scare an H22.
So the oil pump gear likes to go tink and stop working, eh?
And you fail at quotes, sir.
-
vr6... 4 cyl dimensions with displacement!
Overrated from what I am told on here...
QFT.
They also last as long as an H22 at those power levels. If you dont mind Tchain at 50K miles and random electrical problems ok.
Not overrated when you breathe on them. It's not just that they make 500+ on a stock engine, they also make enough torque to scare an H22.
So the oil pump gear likes to go tink and stop working, eh?
And you fail at quotes, sir.
Yes, and I was drunk. Fuck you.