:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: bouncinofftherevlimiter on March 30, 2010, 06:51:31 AM
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i returned back to the HX35 on my land yacht, after constantly fighting the VGT, and its finicky ways....
so upon inspection of the turbo, there is some up and down play, but no in and out, it seems moderate, but the wheels absolutely dont touch the housings, and the turbo comes up in boost fine, and dosent smoke, atleast that i can tell...
im going to be making a trip from NWPA to florida in a couple weeks and wondered if i should look into rebuilding it. i was kinda thinking, if its not broke dont fix it, but i dont want something stupid to happen on the way down. that would really piss me off....
so, if i rebuild it, can i do the gangsta method and just scribe it and realign the marks, or does it need to be sent out for balancing. i searched all over the internet today looking for answers, and it even says shows in the factory holset manual to just line up the marks. ive read everything to them being zero balance to its must be balanced.
i realize the correct way is to have it balanced, but i say alot of guys on diesel sites even upgraded wheels and housings an what not, and the companies selling the parts said balance was unnecessary. a prime example of this is my friend has the hypermax H2E kit on his powerstroke, and upgraded to the modified H2E, which included new housing and wheel, and in the directions from hypermax, they said balancing was totally unnecessary...
CLIFFS...
HX35 kinda sloppy, but no housing touchy, or oil burn, still rips, rebuild or no? rebuild and balance? or rebuild and panty rippers?
if i wasnt on company laptop i would reward those who took time to read with some good old fashioned porn, maybe later if i can get to my personal i will...
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i returned back to the HX35 on my land yacht, after constantly fighting the VGT, and its finicky ways....
so upon inspection of the turbo, there is some up and down play, but no in and out, it seems moderate, but the wheels absolutely dont touch the housings, and the turbo comes up in boost fine, and dosent smoke, atleast that i can tell...
im going to be making a trip from NWPA to florida in a couple weeks and wondered if i should look into rebuilding it. i was kinda thinking, if its not broke dont fix it, but i dont want something stupid to happen on the way down. that would really piss me off....
so, if i rebuild it, can i do the gangsta method and just scribe it and realign the marks, or does it need to be sent out for balancing. i searched all over the internet today looking for answers, and it even says shows in the factory holset manual to just line up the marks. ive read everything to them being zero balance to its must be balanced.
i realize the correct way is to have it balanced, but i say alot of guys on diesel sites even upgraded wheels and housings an what not, and the companies selling the parts said balance was unnecessary. a prime example of this is my friend has the hypermax H2E kit on his powerstroke, and upgraded to the modified H2E, which included new housing and wheel, and in the directions from hypermax, they said balancing was totally unnecessary...
CLIFFS...
HX35 kinda sloppy, but no housing touchy, or oil burn, still rips, rebuild or no? rebuild and balance? or rebuild and panty rippers?
if i wasnt on company laptop i would reward those who took time to read with some good old fashioned porn, maybe later if i can get to my personal i will...
Let it be, if she boost fine your good to go.
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ya its a holset, leave it alone... most of mine had very slight shaft play, but a little wont hurt anything, normally when it starts to smoke you have a problem, most likely premature bearing wear or too much oil pressure. Ive never ran an oil restrictor on a holset are you?
also if you decide just to be safe, and you want to rebuild it, just replace the bearings,thrust bushings, seals and clips, clean everything up and make sure just to mark exactly where your wheel came off the turbine shaft, i also normally mark the locknut just because. Ive never had an issue with a turbo that was rebuilt without balancing that had never had any wheel damage, if everything goes back on like it was and the wheels are still mint, nothing will change. also check the shaft and seal areas for wear. if everything looks good than run it, also after i build a turbo i normally check endplay. you should be able to find specs of the shaft/bearing clearance, just measure with a micrometer, and a slight polish to the shaft wouldn't hurt anything as long as your clearances are good
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Don't touch it. Shit even if it was touching the housing it would last. It's a holset not a pussy ass Garrett.
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Don't touch it. Shit even if it was touching the housing it would last. It's a holset not a pussy ass Garrett.
mine ate a couple small pebbles, bent a fin. still riped
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i realize the correct way is to have it balanced, but i say alot of guys on diesel sites even upgraded wheels and housings an what not, and the companies selling the parts said balance was unnecessary. a prime example of this is my friend has the hypermax H2E kit on his powerstroke, and upgraded to the modified H2E, which included new housing and wheel, and in the directions from hypermax, they said balancing was totally unnecessary...
Well I know Garrett wants you to balance everything assembled. "Hypermax" probably balanced the compressor wheel by itself, and assumes your turbine shaft is balanced well enough to be fine. They also use thicker shafts than a garrett T3, along with much heavier wheels. In a perfect world the shaft itself will be perfectly balanced on the threaded end, but shit spins fast enough where a chipped-off thread could nearly put it out of "new" spec.
I'd just leave it as-is until it smokes. Don't worry about it, Hoesluts can take a beating.
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....CLIFFS...
HX35 kinda sloppy, but no housing touchy, or oil burn, still rips, rebuild or no? rebuild and balance? or rebuild and panty rippers?
if i wasnt on company laptop i would reward those who took time to read with some good old fashioned porn, maybe later if i can get to my personal i will...
Don't waste your money. Journal bearing turbos usually have a little bit of radial play. If there is no axial play, let it roll.
Holsets are fucking beasts.
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Start up the car and then grab the shaft and slow it to a stop and then check the shaft play while the center has some oil press on it.
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I've rebuilt a few turbo's, one that was ran without oil and had a journal partially meltet to the shaft. I just re-polished the shaft and took some emery cloth to the inside of the old journal's and put it back together and it ran fine. Turbo's are pretty resiliant, seems like it really takes alot to make them fail. I never balance shit, maybe "eyeball" the wheel/shaft/nut when re-assembling. Sure its probably not the "right" way to do it but I will do it again.
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i realize the correct way is to have it balanced, but i say alot of guys on diesel sites even upgraded wheels and housings an what not, and the companies selling the parts said balance was unnecessary. a prime example of this is my friend has the hypermax H2E kit on his powerstroke, and upgraded to the modified H2E, which included new housing and wheel, and in the directions from hypermax, they said balancing was totally unnecessary...
Well I know Garrett wants you to balance everything assembled. "Hypermax" probably balanced the compressor wheel by itself, and assumes your turbine shaft is balanced well enough to be fine. They also use thicker shafts than a garrett T3, along with much heavier wheels. In a perfect world the shaft itself will be perfectly balanced on the threaded end, but shit spins fast enough where a chipped-off thread could nearly put it out of "new" spec.
I'd just leave it as-is until it smokes. Don't worry about it, Hoesluts can take a beating.
the hypermax H2E kit uses a holset H2E (pre HX50 i believe)
thanks for the advice, i was prolly going to leave it out of sheer laziness, the car has enough to worry about....
ill run it till a cloud follows me or it chucks parts out the side?
Don't touch it. Shit even if it was touching the housing it would last. It's a holset not a pussy ass Garrett.
mine ate a couple small pebbles, bent a fin. still riped
the Hx52? you never did have a filter on it did you?
i really wanted to try one of those on my car, but the huge turbine housing was such a deterrant for me, my car is pretty much a street car, and i didnt want to have all the lag associated with the large housing it had. i wish there were more housing options for it, and i would own one... mmmmm 67mm...
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h2a holset grate turbo fuck anything else, :noel:
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you should see the kind of up-down travel the wheels in semi's have, im talking like 1/16 inch sometimes. as long as it doesnt hit the housings its fine
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i realize the correct way is to have it balanced, but i say alot of guys on diesel sites even upgraded wheels and housings an what not, and the companies selling the parts said balance was unnecessary. a prime example of this is my friend has the hypermax H2E kit on his powerstroke, and upgraded to the modified H2E, which included new housing and wheel, and in the directions from hypermax, they said balancing was totally unnecessary...
Well I know Garrett wants you to balance everything assembled. "Hypermax" probably balanced the compressor wheel by itself, and assumes your turbine shaft is balanced well enough to be fine. They also use thicker shafts than a garrett T3, along with much heavier wheels. In a perfect world the shaft itself will be perfectly balanced on the threaded end, but shit spins fast enough where a chipped-off thread could nearly put it out of "new" spec.
I'd just leave it as-is until it smokes. Don't worry about it, Hoesluts can take a beating.
the hypermax H2E kit uses a holset H2E (pre HX50 i believe)
thanks for the advice, i was prolly going to leave it out of sheer laziness, the car has enough to worry about....
ill run it till a cloud follows me or it chucks parts out the side?
Don't touch it. Shit even if it was touching the housing it would last. It's a holset not a pussy ass Garrett.
mine ate a couple small pebbles, bent a fin. still riped
the Hx52? you never did have a filter on it did you?
i really wanted to try one of those on my car, but the huge turbine housing was such a deterrant for me, my car is pretty much a street car, and i didnt want to have all the lag associated with the large housing it had. i wish there were more housing options for it, and i would own one... mmmmm 67mm...
If i'm not mistaken the powerstrokes use a compressor wheel that screws on to the turbine shaft. Unlike the standard wheel that slides over the shaft and uses a bolt to hold it in place. So balancing would bee unneeded.
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i returned back to the HX35 on my land yacht, after constantly fighting the VGT, and its finicky ways....
Just curious what kind of issues is the VGT causing you?
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If you do end up rebuilding it, dont bother scribing a mark. Holsluts and MHI turbos are component balanced, the turbine/shaft separate from the comp. wheel.
Besides, every damn turbo on the street is 'out of spec' after a few heat cycles, and most turbos last at least 100k miles. Balancing is pointless IMHO.
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If you do end up rebuilding it, dont bother scribing a mark. Holsluts and MHI turbos are component balanced, the turbine/shaft separate from the comp. wheel.
Besides, every damn turbo on the street is 'out of spec' after a few heat cycles, and most turbos last at least 100k miles. Balancing is pointless IMHO.
Listen to this guy. He works for Porsche...
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If you do end up rebuilding it, dont bother scribing a mark. Holsluts and MHI turbos are component balanced, the turbine/shaft separate from the comp. wheel.
Besides, every damn turbo on the street is 'out of spec' after a few heat cycles, and most turbos last at least 100k miles. Balancing is pointless IMHO.
i always wondered if they were, cause i remember reading/hearing somewhere that they were neutral balance, which would lead me to believe they were balanced separately.
i returned back to the HX35 on my land yacht, after constantly fighting the VGT, and its finicky ways....
Just curious what kind of issues is the VGT causing you?
it was just inconsistant, i was using stops i made out of angle iron and bolts to limit travel and a spring. when it worked it worked good, but when it didnt, it would piss me off, and the tuner was making a comment about how much the A/F would change with even a little adjustment.
it was a good turbo, i could see it working well, but i dont have the time or ambition to keep fucking with it, the HX35 will just work, bolt it on and go.
...damn ive gotten lazy lately, but the thing is, im tired of constantly fucking with this car, it never ends, and now its just time to enjoy it, before i feel like lighting it on fire...
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it was just inconsistant, i was using stops i made out of angle iron and bolts to limit travel and a spring. when it worked it worked good, but when it didnt, it would piss me off, and the tuner was making a comment about how much the A/F would change with even a little adjustment.
it was a good turbo, i could see it working well, but i dont have the time or ambition to keep fucking with it, the HX35 will just work, bolt it on and go.
...damn ive gotten lazy lately, but the thing is, im tired of constantly fucking with this car, it never ends, and now its just time to enjoy it, before i feel like lighting it on fire...
I understand that. I was just curious. I've been trying to tell people about the AFR changes due to back pressure. I we could get someone to work on some sort of backpressure compensation for a MAP based system to get around it.
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so i just went ahead and put the turbo on the car, it burns no oil and the what seems like decent amount of shaft play disappears when it has oil pressure.
the car makes boost retardly fast, i can see 16lb by like less than 3500, and it annihilates tires
thanks everyone