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Author Topic: UI's 703hp Purple beast - She is injured  (Read 267752 times)

Joseph Davis

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Urban cloned the BRMS car's setup.   

MSD makes very good coils, and the Digital-6 doesn't have the problems of the other MSD boxes.

Urban Indian

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the thing spiker didnt realize until I talked to him for 45 minutes was that.


My car still had this problem with the LS, stock dizzy, dsm450's. this problem has been here since the last set-up. I am going to ground my battery, and then put another ground from my therostat to my frame. I cant really think of any other grounds to change.

battery to frame
battery to motor
frame to top of tranny
frame to top of thermostat
rad support to valve cover(going to put into block at same local)
valvecover to shock tower


any other grounds that will be beneficial?
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dvst8r

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You are still not grasping the Motor being ground are you?



The Block is ground, it is also like a distribution center.
« Last Edit: June 20, 2009, 11:30:13 AM by dvst8r »
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Pootie

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Urban cloned the BRMS car's setup.   

MSD makes very good coils, and the Digital-6 doesn't have the problems of the other MSD boxes.

 So does Honda!!

good for 600whp. 8)
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Pootie

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battery to frame

thermostat housing

motor to frame.

i had the ground too short for the one from the Rad support to the valve cover , and the motor moved on a hard pull and it broke the ground wire, I didn't notice it till the next day, and i started the car about 4 times with no issue, lol (so i deem that ground useless)
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Stock sleeve LsVtec 552whp@22psi.. 600whp+@28psi
Tuned by you know who! ;-)
10.64@137mph , 20psi nbspnbsp nbspnbsp <ltlt~ An ET that a certin Turbo Accord on here will NEVER reach! Even with a bag of porkring taped to a pole infront his windshild!

dvst8r

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Ok now that I have a couple minutes to post.

Levi the common denominator between, the first motor that had unfortunate valve issues (that had the same part throttle issues) the LS, and this motor, vs your first GSR is.....












The Battery being moved to the trunk.

So because I can't stand to see this fail anymore.

Battery To BLOCK.
Block to chassis
Block to frame
Block to T-stat
Block to ect...

You get the idea now I am sure.
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dvst8r

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battery to frame

thermostat housing

motor to frame.

i had the ground too short for the one from the Rad support to the valve cover , and the motor moved on a hard pull and it broke the ground wire, I didn't notice it till the next day, and i started the car about 4 times with no issue, lol (so i deem that ground useless)

If this was right his car would run now.
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Pootie

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battery to frame

thermostat housing

motor to frame.

i had the ground too short for the one from the Rad support to the valve cover , and the motor moved on a hard pull and it broke the ground wire, I didn't notice it till the next day, and i started the car about 4 times with no issue, lol (so i deem that ground useless)

If this was right his car would run now.

well my car runs! and at one point i only had 2 grounds.

this is kinda why i'm scared to relocate my battery, and upgrade ignition. Just too many points of fail!
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Tuned by you know who! ;-)
10.64@137mph , 20psi nbspnbsp nbspnbsp <ltlt~ An ET that a certin Turbo Accord on here will NEVER reach! Even with a bag of porkring taped to a pole infront his windshild!

Ntrain2k

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Make the block to chassis and battery to chassis ground point the same.

You are running a ground cable from the relocated battery up to the front, right?

If not, do eet!
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dvst8r

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Make the block to chassis and battery to chassis ground point the same.

What is this battery to chassis ground?

Battery to Block, Block to all. Kinda like the Lord of the rings, One ground to rule them all.
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Passenger

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So because I can't stand to see this fail anymore.

Battery To BLOCK.
Block to chassis
Block to frame
Block to T-stat
Block to ect...

You get the idea now I am sure.

This is what I went over with him two days ago, why has this not been done :?:
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Ntrain2k

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Make the block to chassis and battery to chassis ground point the same.

What is this battery to chassis ground?

Battery to Block, Block to all. Kinda like the Lord of the rings, One ground to rule them all.

It's part of the "big 3" upgrade in the car stereo world. Helps out a LOT with voltage/ground problems.

Alt to battery +.
Battery - to chassis.
Engine to chassis at same point.

It works quite well.
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Urban Indian

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mainly not been done because I cant find wire for less than $3 a foot for measly 4ga. and I am broke, so paying $100 in wire right now at this point in time at this week.

is not feasable. So just relax sally's I am going to call another source when he gets back to work on monday for some welding cable. I think I am going to run 1ga or 2ga from the back to front

ONE STEP AT A TIME, money is not flowing out of my pockets like it once was.
« Last Edit: June 20, 2009, 03:05:14 PM by Urban Indian »
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bigdaddyvtec

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Ok now that I have a couple minutes to post.

Levi the common denominator between, the first motor that had unfortunate valve issues (that had the same part throttle issues) the LS, and this motor, vs your first GSR is.....












The Battery being moved to the trunk.

So because I can't stand to see this fail anymore.

Battery To BLOCK.
Block to chassis
Block to frame
Block to T-stat
Block to ect...

You get the idea now I am sure.

I agree with the grounds being looked at. I went into detail about a ground issue I had with him last night with my first setup that behaved MUCH like this one.

However.....

As far as common denominators go in relation to the problem....

You also forgot hat fucking clusterfuck of an injector driver and those faggot 1600s... He doesnt need them, and it WILL idle like shit (ill go as far as agreeing that a ground issue COULD definately affect them, but its gay and uneccessary). .

If it were mine it would get the ID injectors (I know they dont flow like 1600s, but there will be PLENTY for his goal, and they will idle WAY fucking better than the 1600s).

AS FOR IGNITION, i MADE WELL OVER 600 ON A BONE ASS STOCK JDM DIZZY STRAIGHT OFF THE CRATE. NO NEW CAP NO NOTHING.


SiMPLICITY IS KEY,

The only reason I run the 7AL2 is that Ross gave it to me for my birthday, and I know it worked as it was in Full Race Geoffs car.

Battery to block
Battery to chassis
Chassis to motor

All you should need.

Levi:

Remember to look at the ground with the four wqires in it that we talked about... It should be ground to your MOTOR, IF YOUR MOTOR DOES NOT HAVE A DIRECT GROUND FROM THE BATTERY, it is likely at least signifigantly contributing to the issue.

Fuck a battery in the trunk, LOVING my small ass Odessey battery in the engine compartment slung low... MY longest ground cable is about a foot long...

DOnt give up Blackness... :noel:
« Last Edit: June 20, 2009, 03:18:17 PM by bigdaddyvtec »
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Joseph Davis

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Make the block to chassis and battery to chassis ground point the same.

What is this battery to chassis ground?

Battery to Block, Block to all. Kinda like the Lord of the rings, One ground to rule them all.

It's part of the "big 3" upgrade in the car stereo world. Helps out a LOT with voltage/ground problems.

Alt to battery +.
Battery - to chassis.
Engine to chassis at same point.

It works quite well.

That's not the same thing as what Brett said.  Car stereo tards still think they can ground analog components to the chassis... maybe in the audio world.

danz

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mainly not been done because I cant find wire for less than $3 a foot for measly 4ga. and I am broke, so paying $100 in wire right now at this point in time at this week.

jumper cables at princess auto. 
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dvst8r

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As far as common denominators go in relation to the problem....

You also forgot hat fucking clusterfuck of an injector driver and those faggot 1600s... He doesnt need them, and it WILL idle like shit (ill go as far as agreeing that a ground issue COULD definately affect them, but its gay and uneccessary). .

However Levi stated that he had the SAME issues with the 440cc dsm's in the LS motor. That kinda takes the 1600's out of the equation.

Levi did you run the FJO box with the 440's, or a resistor box?

I completely agree on the ID1000's and I stated earlier in this thread, and earlier in this motor build that he should run them, but his budget has run out. Also it's not like that injector driver and those injectors haven't been run with out success before. They will never be as clean as ID1000's well not at stock voltages but that is a whole other topic.
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hatchboy

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I did a battery relocate to the trunk and followed spiker and JD's advice in grounding and my car runs great. (in the 2 days i drove it).

Positive to battery in trunk
Original Block/Tranny negative to battery in trunk
And another negative going from battery in trunk to wheel well.

It really sounds like some type of ground issue or something.

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If it were mine it would get the ID injectors (I know they dont flow like 1600s, but there will be PLENTY for his goal, and they will idle WAY fucking better than the 1600s).

1525cc if you crank the base pressure to be exact ;)
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dvst8r

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If it were mine it would get the ID injectors (I know they dont flow like 1600s, but there will be PLENTY for his goal, and they will idle WAY fucking better than the 1600s).

1525cc if you crank the base pressure to be exact ;)

Depends on the fuel you use to test them.
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Urban Indian

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1)Levi did you run the FJO box with the 440's, or a resistor box?

2)I completely agree on the ID1000's and I stated earlier in this thread,

3)and earlier in this motor build that he should run them, but his budget has run out.

1) yes
2)sure
3) you were the one who told me to get the FJO box and the 1600's so lick me where i shit
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90dx

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Lol. This thread is great. Race anyone lately
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bigdaddyvtec

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I  just got the Saenz box back in the car and happened to run into a viper that I couldnt pull swsy from with the gay ass M2S4 recently on I5...

 Different story now.....  He couldnr get up on me, Hit the noggle button and it was bye bye time... Wierd thing is that it had 2 2 inch or so ex. pipes coming out under the center of the rear bumper.... Thought that those things had sidepipes...

As he wasnt close enough to hear it, Im wondering if the fuckers turboed.....  Didnt see an intercooler in my rear view, but you cant see mine either  O0


Hope to run into him again (looked to be 45-50), and see whatsup with it. He blew past me when i hit the brakse and played in n  outof the traffic we hit, but its the second time ive run into him around my hnouse...

Looking to see if i can find him.

REALLY like to get a clean run with him,,,


FUCK my car fells good with this tranny in it   :P
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bouncinofftherevlimiter

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I  just got the Saenz box back in the car and happened to run into a viper that I couldnt pull swsy from with the gay ass M2S4 recently on I5...

 Different story now.....  He couldnr get up on me, Hit the noggle button and it was bye bye time... Wierd thing is that it had 2 2 inch or so ex. pipes coming out under the center of the rear bumper.... Thought that those things had sidepipes...

As he wasnt close enough to hear it, Im wondering if the fuckers turboed.....  Didnt see an intercooler in my rear view, but you cant see mine either  O0


Hope to run into him again (looked to be 45-50), and see whatsup with it. He blew past me when i hit the brakse and played in n  outof the traffic we hit, but its the second time ive run into him around my hnouse...

Looking to see if i can find him.

REALLY like to get a clean run with him,,,


FUCK my car fells good with this tranny in it   :P

not all of them had sidepipes, what body style was it? im not sure on the newer style but on the older ones they switched to the rear exit in like 98? i remember reading in motor trend or r&t a few years ago that they did it because people were complaining of the heat on their legs when they would get out of the car, (apparently viper owners have hurt pussies??)

also a very large possibility it was changed...
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dvst8r

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1)Levi did you run the FJO box with the 440's, or a resistor box?

2)I completely agree on the ID1000's and I stated earlier in this thread,

3)and earlier in this motor build that he should run them, but his budget has run out.

1) yes
2)sure
3) you were the one who told me to get the FJO box and the 1600's so lick me where i shit

1) So which was it, or was it both?

3 & 2) I told you to get the FJO box IF you ran the 1600's. As imho a resistor box with 1600's compounds the issues that 1600's are known to have. Also as a side note the ID1000's were not available when you were first buying injectors for this build, or I think that everyone would have said to get those, but is a mute point now, as you have 1600's and an FJO box, and those should work. They have worked on many cars before yours and many cars since.

4) Back to #1 if you did in fact run both the resistor box and the FJO with the LS and 440's and had driveablility issues with both, one would be led strongly to believe that the issue is not with the injectors or the driver, but somewhere else. I mean 440's and a resistor box are the standard of all boosted honda builds. I bet leed and jd would both agree that on a street turbo honda they tune 440's more then any other injector.  
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dvst8r

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mainly not been done because I cant find wire for less than $3 a foot for measly 4ga. and I am broke, so paying $100 in wire right now at this point in time at this week.

jumper cables at princess auto. 

Pimp idea +1

Cut that shit up.
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Joseph Davis

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I use 14-16 gauge extension cable.  Cut a 25ft length you stole from the back of a Mexican's work truck in half, solder all the ends into two lugs and treat as one strap.  Nick another cord from the local BK when you're collecting stainless dumptube for the other battery terminal, they won't miss it.

dvst8r

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I use 14-16 gauge extension cable.  Cut a 25ft length you stole from the back of a Mexican's work truck in half, solder all the ends into two lugs and treat as one strap.  Nick another cord from the local BK when you're collecting stainless dumptube for the other battery terminal, they won't miss it.

Side question: JD do you know or for that matter does anyone reading this know if you do like JD says, and use 2 or 3 core wire as one strap, would it become 7, or ~4.6 gauge wire, respectively? Or something else all together? Or is there such a standard for gauging parallel wires?
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patsmx5

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I use 14-16 gauge extension cable.  Cut a 25ft length you stole from the back of a Mexican's work truck in half, solder all the ends into two lugs and treat as one strap.  Nick another cord from the local BK when you're collecting stainless dumptube for the other battery terminal, they won't miss it.

Side question: JD do you know or for that matter does anyone reading this know if you do like JD says, and use 2 or 3 core wire as one strap, would it become 7, or ~4.6 gauge wire, respectively? Or something else all together? Or is there such a standard for gauging parallel wires?
Double the amount of copper and the gauge drops one unit. IE-18 gauge has X copper, 16 gauge has 2X copper, 14 gauge has 4X copper, etc.
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There is no such thing as too much boost. You could have too little rod, piston, or sleeve. But never too much boost.

dvst8r

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I use 14-16 gauge extension cable.  Cut a 25ft length you stole from the back of a Mexican's work truck in half, solder all the ends into two lugs and treat as one strap.  Nick another cord from the local BK when you're collecting stainless dumptube for the other battery terminal, they won't miss it.

Side question: JD do you know or for that matter does anyone reading this know if you do like JD says, and use 2 or 3 core wire as one strap, would it become 7, or ~4.6 gauge wire, respectively? Or something else all together? Or is there such a standard for gauging parallel wires?
Double the amount of copper and the gauge drops one unit. IE-18 gauge has X copper, 16 gauge has 2X copper, 14 gauge has 4X copper, etc.
Ok so 14ga + 14ga = 12ga?
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