:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Engine Management => Topic started by: imburne on November 30, 2011, 07:18:15 PM
-
So thanks to some help here I got the car started last night. So today I am playing with it more and seen the idle is high as hell. Were talking 3k with the omni 4 bar and 4k rpm with the stock map sensor. TPS is adjusted good I even checked twice. Target idle is 900 in neptune. All I can think is I have a throttle body leak from not using a gasket on one of the sides the throttle body spacer meets to. I have some gasket maker I can use on it but as before I want to get some input before randomly attacking it. Thank you.
-
First thing I would do is make sure that your cable on your tb isn't over tightened, then unplug your iacv and try to get your base idle set. (again I would do this all on stock map sensor) Then if it still idle to high, check to see that you don't have any missed vac ports, then after that I would shoot some starting fluid around all your intake gasket to see if the rpms jump up.
-
Also the cdm throttle body looks like it has an adjustment screw but clockwise or counter clockwise turns seems to have no effect on idle rpm.
I loosened the throttle cable completely so it would have no effect on the throttle body opening.. since I have to adjust this anyhow..
So I unplug the iacv and adjust base idle set how? Its on the stock map sensor now since I wanted to eliminate that variable. I did reflect these changes with neptune and uploaded the changes.
I will check for missing vac ports as well. I should get a picture of video up of the vac lines and the way I routed them to make sure I have no issues there
-
Does your tb have the little screw that sets your throttle stop? You could always back that down and see off it will let the tb blade close more. Do you have any cel?
-
Ahh that sounds good I will try that. Only cel I has was for ELD, and Knock Sensor both of which I disabled. So no new ones and I have cranked it over at least 5 times
-
You need to use gasket on both sides of spacer. take throttle body off and throw some silcone gasket maker on both sides. let it cure for about half an hour
Done
While letting it cure finish installing throttle body/lines/wiring
-
Ultra grey nigga!
-
I adjusted the throttle body slightly with the bottom bolt but since I did not take off the piping I was not able to see it well. Its freezing outside and thats where I put it to turn on and off. Will move to the garage, use gasket on everything and then try to adjust while I can see it. Any other thoughts would be great. Thanks for the help
You need to use gasket on both sides of spacer. take throttle body off and throw some silcone gasket maker on both sides. let it cure for about half an hour
Done
While letting it cure finish installing throttle body/lines/wiring
Will do that sir thanks.
-
Of the adjustment I tried, wiring, and quick startup at 3k rpm open dp.. Camera got knocked down with the wind
High idle with new throttle body (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wr_qZm_4qrc#ws)
-
this is the TB I am using
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.proautoluxury.com%2Fimg%2Fitems%2FPal-Performance%2Fdone%2FPP-TB-002-2.gif&hash=031ecc27637668ec049af67f7faf8e9624a6153e)
-
I would screw the idle screw all the way in, unplug the iacv, and see if it will still idle, if its does back out the throttle stop and see if it changes, if nothing then start checking for leaks.
-
I haven't read single thing, but if you suspect an idle air bleed issue whether it is IACV, FITV or idle air bleed related, simply cover the holes in the TB to see if it drops down to the minimum air idle speed which is isially about 450-600 RPM. I don't recall what it is for a Honduh.
If you plug the holes and the idle doesn't drop to a much lower speed, then you have a massive vacuum leak or some jackhole was fucking with the idle stop screw.
-
damn post fail.
-
The very first thing I would do is make sure you have good gaskets on both sides of the spacer. Then see what Neptune logs. I don't know what it is with people not using logging for troubleshooting lately.
-
that throttle body uses a fitv do you have one on their LOL
-
if you dont have a fitv found on obd1 honda throttle bodies get a sheet of scrap metal drill holes use whatever bolts you have and silcone the shit out of the sheet of scrap.
fitv removed/covered
-
If you do have a fitv installed on the throttle body take off the 8mm bolts and there is a valve inside you can screw done. Go all the way with it. They get loose after 20 years
Or just do what I said above is which I have done for years since the fitv is not really needed. Gets rid of water lines to
-
Block each inside hole, if no change, block the entire throttle body. No it won't suck in your hand. If it still runs, it's a leak. If it dies, the throttle plate is too far open.
FYI I've had some aftermarket carbs for small Hondas (lawnmower size) where the throttle plate wasn't centered. No limit screw change would fix it, I had to loosen the 2 screws holding the plate to the rod, center & close it, then re-tighten.
Scratch that, I think Chris found it. I wouldn't assume anyone one install it w/o covering the bottom. :?:
-
Block each inside hole, if no change, block the entire throttle body. No it won't suck in your hand. If it still runs, it's a leak. If it dies, the throttle plate is too far open.
FYI I've had some aftermarket carbs for small Hondas (lawnmower size) where the throttle plate wasn't centered. No limit screw change would fix it, I had to loosen the 2 screws holding the plate to the rod, center & close it, then re-tighten.
Scratch that, I think Chris found it. I wouldn't assume anyone one install it w/o covering the bottom. :?:
Well he did mention that he is rusty with the whole car/Honduh thing in some thread on here.
Lol.
-
no FITV?
-
no FITV?
Ehh, was I suppose to run a stock FITV with it? They have me a plate which I ran the lines to and I dont remember but I assume the ports went to some channels on the inside. Here is my old gsr one
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi259.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fhh319%2Fiburnclothing1%2F100c4447.jpg&hash=7b7696292aa93db5d40510f197860e4ef5f29755)
if you dont have a fitv found on obd1 honda throttle bodies get a sheet of scrap metal drill holes use whatever bolts you have and silcone the shit out of the sheet of scrap.
fitv removed/covered
I have sheet metal ready so I might do this as well if its going to help this issue.
Did I have to drill anything in the throttle body spacer? I noticed when putting it on some ports might have been blocked. What do you think Chris?
I have a list of things to check in the afternoon guys thank you very much for the help. Will report results soon after I recheck :)
-
Here is the new one with the plate I ran the fluid lines to
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.proautoluxury.com%2Fimg%2Fitems%2FPal-Performance%2Fdone%2FPP-TB-002-1.gif&hash=495a24256a8692775642ded3e25e5a1cfa439ea2)
that throttle body uses a fitv do you have one on their LOL
-
I didn't realize it had provisions for a fitv. I figured being CDM that it just had water lines. That could be the problem. You said you ran the water lines to it, so if water isnt leaking out then there is a good chance that plate isn't leaking.
-
no you do not need to drill anything in the spacer ports unless the cdm throttle body you got port dimnesions for the iacv/fitv are way off which who knows they maybe
Fuck running the water lines to that thing. Plug the port that has a water line with any bolt you have laying around and silcone the bolt I do not trust the looks of that throttle body.
The port size I use on the spacers is more than enough to get a perfect idle after selling 100's and testing on them 5+ years ago on numerous cars and I run one on my own car that idles at 900 you should not have a problem unless the cdm ports again are way off from what honda did.
-
As you were saying Chris and now I see, there is a small hole in the PB Tuning Tb Spacer that allows coolant to flow to the IAVC, so I don't think that's creating the issue here. I also checked the idle stop screw and its not way off at all like anticipated. Unless I have a vacuum leak somewhere I don't know about then the gasket will more than likely solve it. I hope.. Check out some quick vids to make sure my vacuume line routing isnt screwing it up. Thanks Chris and everyone for posting up. I have reread everything a few times
Before removing throttle body on civic (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2rwjA72Ugp0#ws)
Tb on civic (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5PW8xk3hGGU#)
Thinking about car problems and making a video at the same time makes me sound like a moron I am seeing now
-
air moves threw that port not water.
-
I noticed the gasket the cdm throttle body cam with didn't have a second hole in it for the TPS sensor. Could this of hindered a TPS reading? Not sure if it works that way though. Anyhow I started making a hole in it and figured I might as well use the liquid gasket since I will be doing the other side that way too.
I looked at the cooling port at the bottom of the throttle body where the Coolant lines meet and it just looks like a redirection port as there is nothing its traveling to.
Anyhow its in the process of drying one side of the TB Spacer. I will need to run to autozone in a sec for a fitting to reroute the coolant lines.
-
Gasket no need on tps. Thats relly only there to keep moisture out etc
-
Gaskets on both sides carefully done,
Throttle cable not attached
Stop screw barely touching the tb
idle screw all the way in
Coolant hoses now avoid the Throttle body as I rigged it with the plate. Holds and no pressure can go through it
Still at 3k rpm :-\
-
I think I need to spray carb cleaner for leaks next
I also covered the holes on the inside of the tb and the vacuum port on top and the idle did not sound like it changed at all.
-
I think I need to spray carb cleaner for leaks next
-
I think I need to spray carb cleaner for leaks next
I also covered the holes on the inside of the tb and the vacuum port on top and the idle did not sound like it changed at all.
I would suspect either the lower injector seals (the most likely culprit) or gasket material that didn't quite get cleaned off the head or manifold surface. Usually around the studs on the head surface. Dunno what you are using for a gasket between the intake manifold and the head.
-
OK so I must have swapped the map and tps sensor on accident as I swapped them and now I have 1800rpm.. ????
So next I took the carb cleaner and sprayed next to the spacer and the rpm shifted real low. I think my gasket job or the gasket itself is crap. So next I am just going to remove the spacer altogether and use the actual gasket I got from it. I even got the car to stall that way. I hope its not because I am close to the carb opening that its making it want to shut off. More than likely its the shitty gasket job. I am also replaying the data logs and checking them out.
I am going to recheck the TPS since I dialed it in with the other plug.
Will post up results
-
With carb cleaner it should raise your idle
-
With carb cleaner it should raise your idle
:?:
-
Hmmmmm.... Didn't some guy a day or two ago say something about logging and seeing what it said?
Oh wait, that was me.
-
Fuck, me. I'm thinking of starting fluid
-
take the throttle stop off all the way on the throttle body ;DDD
-
You guessed it Chris it was the fact that it didn't have proper gaskets on either side of the Throttle body spacer. I was at about 800 rpm when I stopped playing with the idle. The heat paint coupled with the exhaust wrap is making it smoke like crazy. I was going to do a quick video but figured I would test it slightly. Seems like its not going to happen just yet. The second I started to get in boost I was blowing out spark and I am looking at the computer and running 70% duty cycle for the stock 240's at 5k rpm. Don't know what my throttle duty cycle was at the time but it was not more than 85% im sure.
My wiring mixup of the tps and map sensor could have saved lots of time. That and the carb cleaner trick. Lesson learned, experience gained.
Open DP and Dumptube pointing at the floor is LOUD even at 800 rpm and just gets crazy from there. I am certain I need an exhaust as currently its pullover heaven.
Thank you all for the help
-
Next time I'd suggest you test what we suggest. Not being a jerk, it's just you'll be on the road quicker.
-
I used a peace of cereal box in between my FITV and TB. I did it years ago and as far as I know its still holding up to this day, now that I think about it I should check this next chance I get. Sheet metal and rtv would be a little nicer though.