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Author Topic: HX40 wastegate  (Read 13764 times)

HiProfile

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Re: HX40 wastegate
« Reply #30 on: March 12, 2010, 02:22:56 AM »

and you can drill right through the divider to control both volutes. This will give enough flow to control this turbo.

THIS. It was either a dsm'r or turbo brick that cut the divider down past the WG hole, and allowed more gasses to flow out. The velocity of the gas doesn't like hopping back over a wall to go out a hole.


Realize how much you aren't spending for injectors and a new turbo and use that savings to get a CDM wastegate.
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random-strike

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Re: HX40 wastegate
« Reply #31 on: March 12, 2010, 02:33:56 AM »

We'll see how it works because I already got the turbo
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dvst8r

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Re: HX40 wastegate
« Reply #32 on: March 12, 2010, 11:33:02 AM »

...It was either a dsm'r or turbo brick that cut the divider down past the WG hole, and allowed more gasses to flow out. The velocity of the gas doesn't like hopping back over a wall to go out a hole.


It was neither, it was a cummins guy back in like 1995 - 1996.
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HiProfile

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Re: HX40 wastegate
« Reply #33 on: March 12, 2010, 01:36:36 PM »

I'm not saying the first man in the world, I'm saying the last guy I saw who actually ran the turbo. Or if you want another way to see it, one of the latest gasoline-engine vehicles I saw it on.

Bust out the grinding bits and go to down. Ream it out like it's some girl's perineum that you're double-dipping. Aka taint/choda.
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they mspainted dildoes in my mom'#039#039s hand, in a picture of her in a hospital bed. -JD
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dvst8r

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Re: HX40 wastegate
« Reply #34 on: March 12, 2010, 01:42:32 PM »

Now the problem with that is you loose spool, to gain wastegate control. I would just drill out the one side to ~ 15/16th's to start, and if it is creeping, then drill through, and if it is still having issues, goto an external gate, or hog it out as HiProfile suggests.
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turbob16hatch

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Re: HX40 wastegate
« Reply #35 on: March 12, 2010, 01:47:11 PM »

Or just buy the cheap ebay wastegate and not ruin a turbine housing being a cheap bastard. there no no reason to run devided and drill the housing.
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random-strike

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Re: HX40 wastegate
« Reply #36 on: March 12, 2010, 04:28:46 PM »

Or just buy the cheap ebay wastegate and not ruin a turbine housing being a cheap bastard. there no no reason to run devided and drill the housing.
ya there is, to control boost.
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turbob16hatch

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Re: HX40 wastegate
« Reply #37 on: March 12, 2010, 08:02:32 PM »

Or just buy the cheap ebay wastegate and not ruin a turbine housing being a cheap bastard. there no no reason to run devided and drill the housing.
ya there is, to control boost.

The point i was making is if your going to drill the housing. You better off just buying a open housing.
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dvst8r

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Re: HX40 wastegate
« Reply #38 on: March 12, 2010, 08:55:50 PM »

Or just buy the cheap ebay wastegate and not ruin a turbine housing being a cheap bastard. there no no reason to run devided and drill the housing.
ya there is, to control boost.

The point i was making is if your going to drill the housing. You better off just buying a open housing.

Why he can probably get away with just drilling the one volute out to 15/16ths, and it will probably do just fine, and still maintain the benefits of the divided housing. Even if he has to drill through the divide it is still better then a complete open housing.
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turbob16hatch

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Re: HX40 wastegate
« Reply #39 on: March 12, 2010, 10:07:19 PM »

Or just buy the cheap ebay wastegate and not ruin a turbine housing being a cheap bastard. there no no reason to run devided and drill the housing.
ya there is, to control boost.

The point i was making is if your going to drill the housing. You better off just buying a open housing.

Why he can probably get away with just drilling the one volute out to 15/16ths, and it will probably do just fine, and still maintain the benefits of the divided housing. Even if he has to drill through the divide it is still better then a complete open housing.


How you figure? That is a very dangerous statement.

But honestly with the cost of a ebay 38mm who thinks this is a good idea. god damn.
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dvst8r

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Re: HX40 wastegate
« Reply #40 on: March 13, 2010, 12:04:02 PM »

I figure because I have personally done it all the ways listed above (albeit with an HX-35, but same turbine wheel).

One other mod I forgot to mention, is that the backing plate stock is in the way, an only allows the wastegate flapper to open partially. There are aftermarket backing plates, or you can just to a little cutting and welding.

Response is still better with just drilling through then carving out the divide, or going to an open housing of similar size. As long as the manifold before it is still divided. The amount of extra flow through the turbine, in my opinion was not worth the loss of time it took to light, and the amount of boost lost in between shifts.

To give you some actual figures. On my truck, a stock HX-35 would light at 1450rpm, even with the wastegate actuator disconnected so the wastegate was essentially open, it would still slowly climbed to a max of 47psi. With the wastegate wired shut, it would climb to a maximum of 52psi. Both with drive pressures in the 80psi + range.

With the single volute drilled to 15/16th's, and the wastegate set to open at 35psi, it would maintain that with in about 2psi in 1st-3rd, in 4th it would creep to about 40psi, and in 5th, would hit about 42psi. It would still light at 1450rpm. Drive pressures in 1st-3rd were about 37-40psi, in 4th and 5th would skyrocket to 70psi+

With the divide drilled right though, boost would maintain solid at 35-37psi, in all gears, as long as I stayed near that 35-37psi drive pressures stayed close to 1:1 or 37-42psi range, but as soon as I tried for more they took off. It would light at ~1475rpm.

With the divide augured out, and cleaned up, it wouldn't light till 1575rpm, I could push it to ~38psi before drive took off, and it felt lazy between shifts.

I have never seen an open housing internal gate for a Holset of that size before, if you know of one I would gladly purchase it and test it and add it too the list.

Now I have never done this, but I have seen it on the internet  :P of it being opened up to 40mm, now it took a fair bit of machining to accomplish, and I really don't know if it was worth it.


For the actual time and effort of each step, this is what I would suggest. Modify the back plate, and drill out the single volute and run it. If that is not enough, drill the hole into the second volute. If still not enough, get an external gate.
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random-strike

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Re: HX40 wastegate
« Reply #41 on: March 13, 2010, 04:39:15 PM »

Ill let everyone know how it works on a gas engine
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88dx

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Re: HX40 wastegate
« Reply #42 on: March 13, 2010, 04:55:59 PM »

Ill let everyone know how it works on a gas engine
hopefully its pre-set to NOG for the Dyno  :yes:
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turbob16hatch

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Re: HX40 wastegate
« Reply #43 on: March 13, 2010, 05:12:01 PM »

I figure because I have personally done it all the ways listed above (albeit with an HX-35, but same turbine wheel).

One other mod I forgot to mention, is that the backing plate stock is in the way, an only allows the wastegate flapper to open partially. There are aftermarket backing plates, or you can just to a little cutting and welding.

Response is still better with just drilling through then carving out the divide, or going to an open housing of similar size. As long as the manifold before it is still divided. The amount of extra flow through the turbine, in my opinion was not worth the loss of time it took to light, and the amount of boost lost in between shifts.

To give you some actual figures. On my truck, a stock HX-35 would light at 1450rpm, even with the wastegate actuator disconnected so the wastegate was essentially open, it would still slowly climbed to a max of 47psi. With the wastegate wired shut, it would climb to a maximum of 52psi. Both with drive pressures in the 80psi + range.

With the single volute drilled to 15/16th's, and the wastegate set to open at 35psi, it would maintain that with in about 2psi in 1st-3rd, in 4th it would creep to about 40psi, and in 5th, would hit about 42psi. It would still light at 1450rpm. Drive pressures in 1st-3rd were about 37-40psi, in 4th and 5th would skyrocket to 70psi+

With the divide drilled right though, boost would maintain solid at 35-37psi, in all gears, as long as I stayed near that 35-37psi drive pressures stayed close to 1:1 or 37-42psi range, but as soon as I tried for more they took off. It would light at ~1475rpm.

With the divide augured out, and cleaned up, it wouldn't light till 1575rpm, I could push it to ~38psi before drive took off, and it felt lazy between shifts.

I have never seen an open housing internal gate for a Holset of that size before, if you know of one I would gladly purchase it and test it and add it too the list.

Now I have never done this, but I have seen it on the internet  :P of it being opened up to 40mm, now it took a fair bit of machining to accomplish, and I really don't know if it was worth it.


For the actual time and effort of each step, this is what I would suggest. Modify the back plate, and drill out the single volute and run it. If that is not enough, drill the hole into the second volute. If still not enough, get an external gate.

I know you have experience with diesel's but to be honest gas engine are way different. they don't respond to divided housings like diesels, yeah there better in some instances but just not as dramatic as diesels.

But i spose i will shut up now and await results.
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random-strike

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Re: HX40 wastegate
« Reply #44 on: March 13, 2010, 05:28:43 PM »

Ill let everyone know how it works on a gas engine
hopefully its pre-set to NOG for the Dyno  :yes:

boost is always set to nog
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dvst8r

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Re: HX40 wastegate
« Reply #45 on: March 13, 2010, 11:40:31 PM »


I know you have experience with diesel's but to be honest gas engine are way different. they don't respond to divided housings like diesels, yeah there better in some instances but just not as dramatic as diesels.

But i spose i will shut up now and await results.

It is all just an air pump. I play with gas motors too.
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