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yah i just fixed it a few mins ago. it was actually not the clamp the weld blew out lol.

i rewelded it and put a new clamp on and its better

endless problems lolol

Boost leaks area PITA to find some times 

Hell ya!!

Doing work!!

The increased volume makes a low-piched chu-chu-chu aka dose sound when I let off. I like it better than a BOV sound.

Also here's the price spreadsheet. Anyone with some welding skills could replicate this for a similar price.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/10MvphNoxJFGZz82Q3VFioUivSrpZlK0Gl-lAn4AHSto/edit?usp=sharing

What's up, fuckers. I originally bought this turd to swap the drivetrain into my Firebird. Then I fell in love with having truck as a spare beater.

Engine is the original 260k mile 5.3L, but I tossed in a LS1/LQ9 cam and L92 springs. Exhaust springs are shimmed 0.030", increasing them from 75lbs of seat pressure to 94 & 104lbs. Has the original 4l60e which has survived because Tq management is still in full effect, pulls >20deg on shifts lol.

I used a Rev9 72/68 turbo (the only really expensive part), a cheap-o T4 truck log, 3" downpipe made from a 6.0's y-pipe, a big XSPower IC I had bought for a Civic, a universal piping kit my friend had, pair of 38mm mvs-style gates I bought on ebay for $13/ea (scored 5 lol). Some pics show no IC, that's how I run it for winter. It still has the stock muffler, but I'm adding a 3" vac cutout this spring. Filter was a nice K&N but I moved back to the stock filter with a K&N panel ($2 at junkyard) and a $10 elbow made for dust collectors ($10 amazon).

Tuning is HPT with a P59 and a 2bar from a wrecked SC Cobalt. Boost control is a pair of boost solenoids from a Chevy cruze and a high-amp PWM controller. Yeah, it's that fucking simple.

Fuel is of course my IN600's and a Kemso 340lph in a modded bucket from a Tahoe L59/flex to retain the siphon jet. Running E85 with a flexfuel sensor from a 2012+ Impala, usually between 40-60% because I mix in unl88 when it's really cheap.


Total cost to me was about $1000 for everything, inc the parts I had like the IC. How does it run? Like a raped ape. It either spins or wheel hops BAD in 1st with more than 5psi, but I'm making an arduino-powered boost controller to fix that by reading the shift solenoids. I've only had the balls to turn the controller to 25%, which is about 10psi on 4psi springs (6psi cut down lol). You'll also puzzle over the router on the manifold, it was just me resizing the OD of the v-band lip for better alignment. The Yukon Denali front end went on with minor trimming of the fiberglass bumper structure, it was a 'gift' from a friend that was junking the Yukon for the 6.0 swap. I kept my headlights since the Denali were designed to stick out weird.



This is about as RHMT as it gets, bitches.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JrwBneYaZls

When I replaced the clamps on the hot side one wasn't leaking so I left it. Now it's leaking like a bitch all of a sudden so I'm going to put the new clamp I have for it on tomorrow

You wouldn't swap the cams, just re-time them for the reverse rotation. The ramp up and down on the lobes would be funky but would work. My main concern would be the oil pump though. Seems like it wouldn't work backwards. Electric water pump would handle the water pump rotation hurdle.

Electric oil pump for continues duty, or drysump setup another way 

Carb hat wouldn't stay put

You wouldn't swap the cams, just re-time them for the reverse rotation. The ramp up and down on the lobes would be funky but would work. My main concern would be the oil pump though. Seems like it wouldn't work backwards. Electric water pump would handle the water pump rotation hurdle.

I found references to the vw builds but not the actual builds. I'm curious if it would be possible to make a 1:1 gear drive and run the cams in the normal reverse rotation while changing the crank direction.