Topic: 3-4k Idle Tried two map sensors.. (Read 6851 times)

imburne · « **on:** November 30, 2011, 07:18:15 PM »

So thanks to some help here I got the car started last night. So today I am playing with it more and seen the idle is high as hell. Were talking 3k with the omni 4 bar and 4k rpm with the stock map sensor. TPS is adjusted good I even checked twice. Target idle is 900 in neptune. All I can think is I have a throttle body leak from not using a gasket on one of the sides the throttle body spacer meets to. I have some gasket maker I can use on it but as before I want to get some input before randomly attacking it. Thank you.

ratcityrex · « **Reply #1 on:** November 30, 2011, 07:29:31 PM »

First thing I would do is make sure that your cable on your tb isn't over tightened, then unplug your iacv and try to get your base idle set. (again I would do this all on stock map sensor) Then if it still idle to high, check to see that you don't have any missed vac ports, then after that I would shoot some starting fluid around all your intake gasket to see if the rpms jump up.

imburne · « **Reply #2 on:** November 30, 2011, 07:33:51 PM »

Also the cdm throttle body looks like it has an adjustment screw but clockwise or counter clockwise turns seems to have no effect on idle rpm.

I loosened the throttle cable completely so it would have no effect on the throttle body opening.. since I have to adjust this anyhow..

So I unplug the iacv and adjust base idle set how? Its on the stock map sensor now since I wanted to eliminate that variable. I did reflect these changes with neptune and uploaded the changes.

I will check for missing vac ports as well. I should get a picture of video up of the vac lines and the way I routed them to make sure I have no issues there

ratcityrex · « **Reply #3 on:** November 30, 2011, 07:42:02 PM »

Does your tb have the little screw that sets your throttle stop? You could always back that down and see off it will let the tb blade close more. Do you have any cel?

imburne · « **Reply #4 on:** November 30, 2011, 07:44:30 PM »

Ahh that sounds good I will try that. Only cel I has was for ELD, and Knock Sensor both of which I disabled. So no new ones and I have cranked it over at least 5 times

chris · « **Reply #5 on:** November 30, 2011, 07:54:40 PM »

You need to use gasket on both sides of spacer. take throttle body off and throw some silcone gasket maker on both sides. let it cure for about half an hour

Done

While letting it cure finish installing throttle body/lines/wiring

ratcityrex · « **Reply #6 on:** November 30, 2011, 08:03:46 PM »

Ultra grey nigga!

imburne · « **Reply #7 on:** November 30, 2011, 08:50:40 PM »

I adjusted the throttle body slightly with the bottom bolt but since I did not take off the piping I was not able to see it well. Its freezing outside and thats where I put it to turn on and off. Will move to the garage, use gasket on everything and then try to adjust while I can see it. Any other thoughts would be great. Thanks for the help

Quote from: chris M on November 30, 2011, 07:54:40 PM

You need to use gasket on both sides of spacer. take throttle body off and throw some silcone gasket maker on both sides. let it cure for about half an hour

Done

While letting it cure finish installing throttle body/lines/wiring

Will do that sir thanks.

imburne · « **Reply #8 on:** November 30, 2011, 08:57:04 PM »

Of the adjustment I tried, wiring, and quick startup at 3k rpm open dp.. Camera got knocked down with the wind

High idle with new throttle body

imburne · « **Reply #9 on:** November 30, 2011, 09:18:41 PM »

this is the TB I am using

ratcityrex · « **Reply #10 on:** November 30, 2011, 09:23:43 PM »

I would screw the idle screw all the way in, unplug the iacv, and see if it will still idle, if its does back out the throttle stop and see if it changes, if nothing then start checking for leaks.

snm95ls · « **Reply #11 on:** November 30, 2011, 09:44:51 PM »

I haven't read single thing, but if you suspect an idle air bleed issue whether it is IACV, FITV or idle air bleed related, simply cover the holes in the TB to see if it drops down to the minimum air idle speed which is isially about 450-600 RPM. I don't recall what it is for a Honduh.

If you plug the holes and the idle doesn't drop to a much lower speed, then you have a massive vacuum leak or some jackhole was fucking with the idle stop screw.

snm95ls · « **Reply #12 on:** November 30, 2011, 09:46:41 PM »

damn post fail.

PhilStubbs · « **Reply #13 on:** November 30, 2011, 11:37:44 PM »

The very first thing I would do is make sure you have good gaskets on both sides of the spacer. Then see what Neptune logs. I don't know what it is with people not using logging for troubleshooting lately.

chris · « **Reply #14 on:** December 01, 2011, 02:23:23 AM »

that throttle body uses a fitv do you have one on their LOL

chris · « **Reply #15 on:** December 01, 2011, 02:25:07 AM »

if you dont have a fitv found on obd1 honda throttle bodies get a sheet of scrap metal drill holes use whatever bolts you have and silcone the shit out of the sheet of scrap.

fitv removed/covered

chris · « **Reply #16 on:** December 01, 2011, 02:27:30 AM »

If you do have a fitv installed on the throttle body take off the 8mm bolts and there is a valve inside you can screw done. Go all the way with it. They get loose after 20 years

Or just do what I said above is which I have done for years since the fitv is not really needed. Gets rid of water lines to

HiProfile · « **Reply #17 on:** December 01, 2011, 02:29:32 AM »

Block each inside hole, if no change, block the entire throttle body. No it won't suck in your hand. If it still runs, it's a leak. If it dies, the throttle plate is too far open.

FYI I've had some aftermarket carbs for small Hondas (lawnmower size) where the throttle plate wasn't centered. No limit screw change would fix it, I had to loosen the 2 screws holding the plate to the rod, center & close it, then re-tighten.

Scratch that, I think Chris found it. I wouldn't assume anyone one install it w/o covering the bottom.

snm95ls · « **Reply #18 on:** December 01, 2011, 03:13:57 AM »

Quote from: HiProfile on December 01, 2011, 02:29:32 AM

Block each inside hole, if no change, block the entire throttle body. No it won't suck in your hand. If it still runs, it's a leak. If it dies, the throttle plate is too far open.

FYI I've had some aftermarket carbs for small Hondas (lawnmower size) where the throttle plate wasn't centered. No limit screw change would fix it, I had to loosen the 2 screws holding the plate to the rod, center & close it, then re-tighten.

Scratch that, I think Chris found it. I wouldn't assume anyone one install it w/o covering the bottom.

Well he did mention that he is rusty with the whole car/Honduh thing in some thread on here.

Lol.

DSharp · « **Reply #19 on:** December 01, 2011, 03:24:00 AM »

no FITV?

imburne · « **Reply #20 on:** December 01, 2011, 04:33:57 AM »

Quote from: DSharp on December 01, 2011, 03:24:00 AM

no FITV?

Ehh, was I suppose to run a stock FITV with it? They have me a plate which I ran the lines to and I dont remember but I assume the ports went to some channels on the inside. Here is my old gsr one

Quote from: chris M on December 01, 2011, 02:25:07 AM

if you dont have a fitv found on obd1 honda throttle bodies get a sheet of scrap metal drill holes use whatever bolts you have and silcone the shit out of the sheet of scrap.

fitv removed/covered

I have sheet metal ready so I might do this as well if its going to help this issue.

Did I have to drill anything in the throttle body spacer? I noticed when putting it on some ports might have been blocked. What do you think Chris?

I have a list of things to check in the afternoon guys thank you very much for the help. Will report results soon after I recheck

imburne · « **Reply #21 on:** December 01, 2011, 04:42:02 AM »

Here is the new one with the plate I ran the fluid lines to

Quote from: chris M on December 01, 2011, 02:23:23 AM

that throttle body uses a fitv do you have one on their LOL

PhilStubbs · « **Reply #22 on:** December 01, 2011, 07:46:54 AM »

I didn't realize it had provisions for a fitv. I figured being CDM that it just had water lines. That could be the problem. You said you ran the water lines to it, so if water isnt leaking out then there is a good chance that plate isn't leaking.

chris · « **Reply #23 on:** December 01, 2011, 12:16:26 PM »

no you do not need to drill anything in the spacer ports unless the cdm throttle body you got port dimnesions for the iacv/fitv are way off which who knows they maybe

Fuck running the water lines to that thing. Plug the port that has a water line with any bolt you have laying around and silcone the bolt I do not trust the looks of that throttle body.

The port size I use on the spacers is more than enough to get a perfect idle after selling 100's and testing on them 5+ years ago on numerous cars and I run one on my own car that idles at 900 you should not have a problem unless the cdm ports again are way off from what honda did.

imburne · « **Reply #24 on:** December 01, 2011, 05:22:08 PM »

As you were saying Chris and now I see, there is a small hole in the PB Tuning Tb Spacer that allows coolant to flow to the IAVC, so I don't think that's creating the issue here. I also checked the idle stop screw and its not way off at all like anticipated. Unless I have a vacuum leak somewhere I don't know about then the gasket will more than likely solve it. I hope.. Check out some quick vids to make sure my vacuume line routing isnt screwing it up. Thanks Chris and everyone for posting up. I have reread everything a few times
Before removing throttle body on civic
Tb on civic
Thinking about car problems and making a video at the same time makes me sound like a moron I am seeing now

chris · « **Reply #25 on:** December 01, 2011, 06:04:07 PM »

air moves threw that port not water.

imburne · « **Reply #26 on:** December 01, 2011, 06:12:34 PM »

I noticed the gasket the cdm throttle body cam with didn't have a second hole in it for the TPS sensor. Could this of hindered a TPS reading? Not sure if it works that way though. Anyhow I started making a hole in it and figured I might as well use the liquid gasket since I will be doing the other side that way too.

I looked at the cooling port at the bottom of the throttle body where the Coolant lines meet and it just looks like a redirection port as there is nothing its traveling to.

Anyhow its in the process of drying one side of the TB Spacer. I will need to run to autozone in a sec for a fitting to reroute the coolant lines.

chris · « **Reply #27 on:** December 01, 2011, 06:20:58 PM »

Gasket no need on tps. Thats relly only there to keep moisture out etc

imburne · « **Reply #28 on:** December 01, 2011, 08:22:54 PM »

Gaskets on both sides carefully done,
Throttle cable not attached
Stop screw barely touching the tb
idle screw all the way in
Coolant hoses now avoid the Throttle body as I rigged it with the plate. Holds and no pressure can go through it

Still at 3k rpm $:-\$

imburne · « **Reply #29 on:** December 01, 2011, 08:27:07 PM »

I think I need to spray carb cleaner for leaks next

I also covered the holes on the inside of the tb and the vacuum port on top and the idle did not sound like it changed at all.

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Author Topic: 3-4k Idle Tried two map sensors.. (Read 6851 times)

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