:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: highroller54 on September 02, 2009, 11:42:58 AM
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are they needed or not? Thanks bitches :mexi:
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No.
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Cheap insurance though, if it was my car I would run them.
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Or helicoil all the threads in the block and then use stock bolts.
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the threads in the block arent an issue till well over 500whp. studs are cheap, i would run them at 300whp
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For the ~$100 I would run them.
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These guys have never done me wrong. They ship supper fast, and customer service has always been good.
http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=19618&cat=555&page= (http://www.extremepsi.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=19618&cat=555&page=)
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def run them.
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give it a go
greg from go autoworks is running 12's in his stock 100+k d with stock studs ect
mine is holding fine with stock studs at 11 out of an ebay 57 at 240,000
go easy on the timing and you should be ok, but as stated they are good insurance. make sure to tq them in 3 steps not 10ftlb increments like H-T recommends
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guy on d-series with a 500+whp running stock bolts... runing 10.00s... on a sohc etc...
but for anything over stock id just get the damn head studs....
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make sure to tq them in 3 steps not 10ftlb increments like H-T recommends
Wrong
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yea use ARP's like said, theyre good insurance. one little overboost and the head is going to lift, especially with those stock bolts. you can still run a stock 25$ headgasket, knowing that the head will stay put with ARP's in there...
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make sure to tq them in 3 steps not 10ftlb increments like H-T recommends
Wrong
IDK im just listening to Al from arp . . . his email
1. hand tighten in to block.
2. use the moly lube on the top threads and washers.
3. torque in 2-3 steps. Not 10-12 pound increments like is posted all over the internet.
-for example the torque spec is 60 ft lbs. Tighten them all first to say 5-10 ft lbs, then ideally...go right to 60, but if you physically can't do 30-60.
Alot of the people torquing them down in steps to 75-80 ft lbs he said your asking for trouble..and not sealing any more or putting any more clamping force that way.
but yeah, its how ill be doing mine on the built motor . . .
give them a call and ask
800.826.3045
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i hate headstuds...
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make sure to tq them in 3 steps not 10ftlb increments like H-T recommends
Wrong
IDK im just listening to Al from arp . . . his email
1. hand tighten in to block.
2. use the moly lube on the top threads and washers.
3. torque in 2-3 steps. Not 10-12 pound increments like is posted all over the internet.
-for example the torque spec is 60 ft lbs. Tighten them all first to say 5-10 ft lbs, then ideally...go right to 60, but if you physically can't do 30-60.
Alot of the people torquing them down in steps to 75-80 ft lbs he said your asking for trouble..and not sealing any more or putting any more clamping force that way.
but yeah, its how ill be doing mine on the built motor . . .
give them a call and ask
800.826.3045
Friction force when not moving is higher than friction force when moving. So if you tighten them to 50, it's gonna take 65-70 just to break the friction and get it to turn. But you know it's at 50. That's why you don't torque in small steps. If you really cared, you'd torque them all in one step to some low value, and then degree them.
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i hate headstuds...
Best part is removeing the head with them in, and the gasket gets all tangled up.
Block threads, stock bolts, and torque specs aren't the issue - it's the fact that stock bolts are NOT INTENDED FOR REUSE. AFAIK all OEM bolts for b's and d's are torque-to-yeild, meaning throw away after removal. Considering that for 25-50% more you can get ARP's over new OEM's, it's a no-brainer IMO.
And lightningmotorsports is a great place to get them. Fast shipping, usually the best prices, and you can get free shipping if you use the honda-tech code in their comments section. Their new website doesn't accept coupon codes yet, but they discount it afterwards. They can also get you individual arp stuff quickly & cheaply.
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If they are torque to yield bolts then yeah you have to replace them. I suggested helicoils as they will distort the surface of the block less when you torque the bolts. Pretty sure yall have an aluminum block on all the hondas.
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only same D-series are one time use. you can tell by the spiral cut down the legnth of the bolt. B-series can deff be reused. i have used my B18C headbolts several times...
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only same D-series are one time use. you can tell by the spiral cut down the legnth of the bolt. B-series can deff be reused. i have used my B18C headbolts several times...
Yuppers my zc I repped back in college had the head off atleast 5 times and used the same head bolts each time. Never blew a head gasket. head came off for porting and milling since I was doing alot of back to back testing back then when I actually enjoyed the local honda crowds.
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Oh and the headbolts from the d series that were spiral that I have seen have been all d15b non vtec motors.
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The spiral TTY headbolts were not install one OEM motors, but are used during HG replaced mainly on the 88-91 D15's
I am reusing them right now......
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so you can reuse the bseries head bolts? i thought they werent?
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so you can reuse the bseries head bolts? i thought they werent?
i just torqued mine down for the 4th time...
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yea use ARP's like said, theyre good insurance. one little overboost and the head is going to lift, especially with those stock bolts. you can still run a stock 25$ headgasket, knowing that the head will stay put with ARP's in there...
Shut the fuck up, 2baller4u. D-series heads don't lift, at all. It's losers running too much timing causing the bore to flex and break headgasket seal due to borderline detonation and the accompanying pressure spikes.
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so you can reuse the bseries head bolts? i thought they werent?
More internet nonsense
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Stock rod bolts break. Stock Honda rods are weak. You can't run more than 6 psi on a stock D16, and no more than 8 psi on a B-series. D16 don't bolt to 1G Integra transmissions.
Or, that's what people claimed before beacons of industry came and saved us from out ignorance. People like Geoff Ricer from Full-Race, who documented all those gains their parts did over everything else, on what 20/20 hindsight has proven to be an unrealistically high reading dyno.
You guys need to back way the hell off of bullshit that people who've never done it claim, and pay more attention to the people who have done it ESPECIALLY when they have nothing to sell you and therefore no reason to lie.
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I sell stock used headbolts so dont trust a word that I say ;D
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some other fun internet lies
All Honda use the same bolt pattern for throttle bodies
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I have a 90-91 Integra TB that won't fit on anything else, and was called out about it during my D16Y5 build. I'm too stupid to determine whether or not one of the bolt holes doesn't line up or not, so I should just STFU.
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I have a 90-91 Integra TB that won't fit on anything else, and was called out about it during my D16Y5 build. I'm too stupid to determine whether or not one of the bolt holes doesn't line up or not, so I should just STFU.
link? :mexi:
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some other fun internet lies
All Honda use the same bolt pattern for throttle bodies
or you cant put a dual cam H head on single cam F bottom....