:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: danz on March 25, 2009, 09:03:55 PM
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What is a good cheap linear temp sensor i can use to measure the changes in my IATs, something with a data sheet would be stellar.
going to mount it pre intercooler to see how much work the IC is doing/not doing
cheers
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What is a good cheap linear temp sensor i can use to measure the changes in my IATs, something with a data sheet would be stellar.
going to mount it pre intercooler to see how much work the IC is doing/not doing
cheers
GM AIT sensor.
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radioshack used to have thermistors, not sure if they still do. Weren't real linear, but they did have a conversion table on the back of the package. Adequate range for IAT temperatures. Could get em from digikey or newark.
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a part number would be nice for the GM "AIT" sensor.... fuck
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For those who need part #'s
GM IAT Sensor #25036751
GM IAT Sensor Pigtail #12102620
now wheres the tech sheet.
fuck im the shit. i use the internet
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bmotorsports.com%2Fshop%2Fimages%2Fiat-resistance-chart.gif&hash=080dd88f80060e84bc9691697967e6b210b574bd)
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Both Freescale and National have temp sensing IC chips which output a perfectly linear voltage. Probablt cost less than the GM deal, but involved four times the fucking around.
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There are 2 different GM IAT sensors, one has a steel cage around the probe and the other has a plastic cage. From experiance the steel cage ones last longer. My IAT's do sit around 150 tho lol :(
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Honda ones last forever as long as you don't try to run battery power + ground to them.
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What does IAT's matter as long as your running well and your EGT's are ok? From my understanding IAT's aren't a big deal as long as your EGT's remain at an OK level.
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Because you cant run as much timing with out getting det and cold air is more dense so you make more power per a psi.
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What does IAT's matter as long as your running well and your EGT's are ok? From my understanding IAT's aren't a big deal as long as your EGT's remain at an OK level.
It's so you can measure the effectiveness of the intercooler setup. Intercooler A drops from 80* to 60*, while intercooler B drops from 80* to 50* etc
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Because you cant run as much timing with out getting det and cold air is more dense so you make more power per a psi.
A few degrees of intake charge has a large effect on air density, and a very minor effect on charge heating. 49% of charge heating takes place when the intake charge strokes across the superhot intake valve, 49% takes place on the compression stroke (you compress shit it gets hot, y0), and the other 2% is dictated by other things most of which aren't IATs.
When doing IAT trims on Hondas I mainly pay attention to fuel corrections. The ignition side, meh, that stuff is mainly there to advance timing when intake charge/manifold is super cold so that the car idles correctly. The only time I touch the "hot" IAT trims is to remove ignition retard in the 130+ degree F range, as the only thing that consistently runs that hot is a blower car and they don't move enough air to have the small amount of relatively hot air affect ignition timing requirements by speeding up the burn. At all.
Things might be, and quite likely are, different for some other platforms that aren't Hondas. But I'm confident those are exception to the rule type situations and not the way shit works. 90% of my tuning experience is with Hondas, but I've tuned a large pile of cars in the last decade and I walk into every tune with my ears perked all the way up; so far it's worked out that way.