:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: onlyflash944 on January 23, 2010, 11:13:41 PM
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Just picked up one of the cleanest EFs I've seen in a while. $550 for (pasted from craigslist):
650 CASH car needs to be gone. you get everything in this thread BRAND NEW hasport mounts and all
91 civic LX 267xxx miles on chassis
Clean title in hand
5speed(no grinds)
exedy clutch put in a year ago
short shifter
new KYB AGX's installed with coilovers 4000 miles ago
new front pads and rotors 4000 miles ago
stock Si harness out of an EG
p06 ecu(virgin)
p28 ecu(virgin)
Stainless header
new exhaust from converter back(very quiet)
motor is a d15b7 bottom end, z6 head and dizzy. car ran strong before spun bearing
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi91.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk295%2Fonlyflash944%2FFor%2520Sale%2F91%2520Civic%2520Sedan%2FDSC00925.jpg&hash=f63533ef5f79504b09eecbb9b018383f085287d9)
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Haven't even got it off the trailer yet. Probably going to swap in a complete Z6 and sell the mounts and such, unless I can find a killer deal on a cable B series tranny since I have a B18B sittin' in the garage with a blown HG.
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Hmm no rust in the ass? Around here that is impossible. Nice kill.
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Hmm no rust in the ass? Around here that is impossible. Nice kill.
There is just a tiny little spot that's on the driver's side just behind the back door on the quarter panel. The car is already flat black, so I might sand blast it and bondo it up and repaint that one spot.
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350 shipped cable b16a doesnt get any cheaper
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350 shipped cable b16a doesnt get any cheaper
I figured you might be the one to talk to. I just can't figure out what would net more money: throw in the Z6 and sell the mounts/linkage, go ahead and get a tranny and do the B18 swap, or jsut part everything out. The suspenson on this thing is dangerously fresh
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I've always thought ef 4 doors were the ugliest of ugly
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I've always thought ef 4 doors were the ugliest of ugly
+1
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thats what makes them so awesome.
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I've always thought ef 4 doors were the ugliest of ugly
I've always thought the exact opposite. Pure awkward 80's boxy sex.
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Much love for the 4 does fo mo hoes
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Much love for the 4 does fo mo hoes
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lol, I got to thinking about the car this morning and realized that I still have a complete 90 integra parts car back home in WV. looks like this civic is getting the b18a1 swap with the goodies that the car came with. should be fun, i've never done anything b series guess the hardest thing is the axles
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Find a wrecked wagovan and swap the drivetrain w/vitaras and boost. Piss off wrx subaru fags and haul ass in the snow. :noel:
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i miss my shitbox soo much i want another!
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Find a wrecked wagovan and swap the drivetrain w/vitaras and boost. Piss off wrx subaru fags and haul ass in the snow. :noel:
This.
Sleeper wouldn't even begin to describe it.
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Find a wrecked wagovan and swap the drivetrain w/vitaras and boost. Piss off wrx subaru fags and haul ass in the snow. :noel:
This.
Sleeper wouldn't even begin to describe it.
But pointless waste of time would be a pretty good description.
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Find a wrecked wagovan and swap the drivetrain w/vitaras and boost. Piss off wrx subaru fags and haul ass in the snow. :noel:
This.
Sleeper wouldn't even begin to describe it.
But pointless waste of time would be a pretty good description.
Depends on your point of view and what you are after.
Shitbox that destroys fanboys high dollar mommy and daddy paid for cars is the win.
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Find a wrecked wagovan and swap the drivetrain w/vitaras and boost. Piss off wrx subaru fags and haul ass in the snow. :noel:
This.
Sleeper wouldn't even begin to describe it.
But pointless waste of time would be a pretty good description.
Depends on your point of view and what you are after.
Shitbox that destroys fanboys high dollar mommy and daddy paid for cars is the win.
It's far from the win. Sure you might impress a few 19 year old boys but no one cares that you can make a piece of shit car faster than a stock or modified Subaru. At the end of the day it's still a piece of shit and you're still driving it.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fmedia.giantbomb.com%2Fuploads%2F0%2F3341%2F426607-avgn_super.jpg&hash=fb9493ecc824eef3dd2e851085379adc23c27eff)
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Some care, some don't.
Shitbox for the win.
Rawr FTL.
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But pointless waste of time would be a pretty good description.
This.
The car was bought to make a profit. Rust free EF with some sort of swap should bring in a few more dollars than I will have in it. I have almost everything I need to do some sort of swap, be it Z6 or B18. I'm probably going to take the suspension off to save for my CRX that is also in WV
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axles are easy
90-93 integra halfshaft
90-93 integra axles
Be forwarned after 20 years those halfshafts dont want to separate from the axles. A very heavy hammer and skilled hands are needed to get those fuckers apart.
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Find a wrecked wagovan and swap the drivetrain w/vitaras and boost. Piss off wrx subaru fags and haul ass in the snow. :noel:
This.
Sleeper wouldn't even begin to describe it.
But pointless waste of time would be a pretty good description.
Depends on your point of view and what you are after.
Shitbox that destroys fanboys high dollar mommy and daddy paid for cars is the win.
Agreed. Although I'd like it less for pissing off subie and evo people than just for how much of a blast it would be with snowtires and boost. Although it would probably be almost as good with just an LSD and some good snows.
I have some rally-driver fantasies that I try to live out in the winter.
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Waste of time. Im not sure rawr remembers this site is about fixing up old honda's ???
You get a hell of a deal and 4 doors are nice to own if you dont have a truck.
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Waste of time. Im not sure rawr remembers this site is about fixing up old honda's ???
It's not. It just seems that way because 9000% of you lack originality.
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Cool
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Be forwarned after 20 years those halfshafts dont want to separate from the axles. A very heavy hammer and skilled hands are needed to get those fuckers apart.
Blunt nosed chisel and a hammer, easy as pie.
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I've always thought ef 4 doors were the ugliest of ugly
+1
+2
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Hells yea!
Just got doen taking the front axles out and the owner wasn't lying. Front pads and rotors are in awesome shape, practically new, same thing with both front axles. This pos was one of my better buys lately
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Find a wrecked wagovan and swap the drivetrain w/vitaras and boost. Piss off wrx subaru fags and haul ass in the snow. :noel:
This.
Sleeper wouldn't even begin to describe it.
But pointless waste of time would be a pretty good description.
Ha. Says the guy who recently purchased the mk4 jetta. Pot, kettle, black.
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Find a wrecked wagovan and swap the drivetrain w/vitaras and boost. Piss off wrx subaru fags and haul ass in the snow. :noel:
This.
Sleeper wouldn't even begin to describe it.
But pointless waste of time would be a pretty good description.
Ha. Says the guy who recently purchased the mk4 jetta. Pot, kettle, black.
I figured the ultimate way to piss subaru owners off about what they actually care about. You just have to buy cuter cars than them. :P
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Find a wrecked wagovan and swap the drivetrain w/vitaras and boost. Piss off wrx subaru fags and haul ass in the snow. :noel:
This.
Sleeper wouldn't even begin to describe it.
But pointless waste of time would be a pretty good description.
Ha. Says the guy who recently purchased the mk4 jetta. Pot, kettle, black.
I figured the ultimate way to piss subaru owners off about what they actually care about. You just have to buy cuter cars than them. :P
ZING!!!
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Might as well make this a build thread. Added a few new bends to the A/C lines and got everything pulled
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The rustiest part of the car. I'll probably be looking for a replacement one if the Integra doens't have one
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Easiest way to get the bitch pin is make sure the car is jacked up enough for the linkage to come with everything else. At least that's what I always do
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and trust me. I know my garage is a stupid mess
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I don't thing mess is the good word. Actually, I don't think there's a word to describe how it is. ;D
Do you really have clothes in your garage? lol
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sure do, thats the yard sale rack
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super bowl bump.
need a obd0 LS dizzy or just the coil to see if i can get my dizzy to work on the cheap. ill get pics of the parts car up soon
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I have an obdo ls coil that came off a working car. If you want the whole dist let me know,Ill let it go for uber cheap. It was hacked up since the dude used it on a b16a head so he chopped off one of the legs to clear the vtec solenoid and nig noged the wiring but it worked.
Also I should have a couple battery trays too. No rust its California
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I have an obdo ls coil that came off a working car. If you want the whole dist let me know,Ill let it go for uber cheap. It was hacked up since the dude used it on a b16a head so he chopped off one of the legs to clear the vtec solenoid and nig noged the wiring but it worked.
Also I should have a couple battery trays too. No rust its California
pm me a price on the whole dizzy, with all the internals. I need it asap, flat rate should get here in 3 days right? I'd be willing to give you a little extra if you can get it in the mail tonight or tomorrow morning. I'll let you know about the battery tray at a later date.
getting ready to do a compression check here in a bit
well i can't freaking get the key cyl to turn on the steering wheel. shit is locked up tight as a 4 year old so it might be a while before i can do the compression check anyway
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How you know the tightness of a 4 year old girl is extremely disturbing :?: Child molester!
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who said anything about girls?
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Fatal error: Maximum execution time of 90 seconds exceeded in /home/realho/public_html/forum/Sources/Subs.php on line 2459
Been getting that randomly since the last crash.
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.hetemeel.com%2Fhaha%2F19575.You%2527re%2Bgay%2520Suck%2Ba%2Bnigger%2527s%2Bcock%21.jpg&hash=3159687b65ca315ddbec20aa59cf93998e23ac95)
pwn3d
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mother fuck
figured out what i needed to do to bypass the ignition switch and got it where it would turn over for the compression check. so #1 cyl has 0 psi, i mean not even close to reading something. doesn't sound like a head gasket. 2 hours later i have the head off and sure enough there's a hole in the pistion. freaking awesome. the walls look in pretty bad shape too so i think i'm just going to try to pull the head off the b18b1 i have in the garage and see what it looks like cause this one is pretty much junk. i'd just have to convert the intake manifold over to obd0 or see if i can reuse the a1 head on the b1 block
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That sucks about the LS. AFAIK the only conversion for the IM would be the injectors. The rest has all the same plugs in all the same spots. You'll also get a bigger TB and lose that retarded dashpot thing. Hopefully it's just the pistons/rings. If that's the case, find those "turbo" nippon pistons with beefy ringlands (~$155/ebay) and go with a heavy hone job. Then turbo the bitch. Or...just get some used pr3 pistons and regrinds.
I've always thought ef 4 doors were the ugliest of ugly
A slight drop and decent wheels makes them fucking awsome. Not only that, you pull out the front pass. seat and you can carry: 1 b-series longblock, b-series bare block, another d-series block, a crank, a z6 head, a bunch of other Honda junk, including a HF manifold with a t3 adapter on it. And with a mpfi conversion you can still smoke a gutted 96+ DX, that's with all the above still inside. And getting 42mpg on top of it. Then there's the panoramic view you get from so much glass. There's not a single blind spot on the car. If I move to somewhere those cars don't rust, I'm buying one again just for a daily bomber/parts car/rhmt sleeper.
The only downside is no cup holders, but a ford modular throttle body is sized perfectly for a beer can and tapered for fast-food cups.
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and trust me. I know my garage is a stupid mess
thats nothin trust ME !
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Parts car with supposedly bad head gasket
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi91.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk295%2Fonlyflash944%2FFor%2520Sale%2F91%2520Civic%2520Sedan%2FIMG_3580.jpg&hash=be58c3329cf42b3e7ca8e24247a5227b7900ffa9)
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i was really hoping the drivetrain was good seeing the odometer
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FABLAD: who the fuck wants to pull cams when taking a head off
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The 'bad' head gasekt
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi91.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk295%2Fonlyflash944%2FFor%2520Sale%2F91%2520Civic%2520Sedan%2FIMG_3589.jpg&hash=f512a6df396e159b96731b451d59a4891c43b580)
Free head that was in the trunk
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Random shit I hoard, including a the B18B1 long block
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi91.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk295%2Fonlyflash944%2FFor%2520Sale%2F91%2520Civic%2520Sedan%2FIMG_3590.jpg&hash=74f04ba429cbc733a47810c9196150a969c385de)
batteries died in the camera, but the B1 head is off, and the pistons look good. I want to take a look at the bottom end later and see what kind of shape the bearings and crank are in. If they look good, then they are getting reinstalled as is. I think I'm just going to take one of the 3 LS heads I have and thow it on the B1 block after getting it checked out and probably shaved for flattness at a machine shop. I could be mistaken, but I think the A1 and B1 head castings are identical. It is just the cams are different. I should have enough parts to make a complete obd0 motor for the civic
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Wow, that's bad. All I can guess is the O0 tried no2 out w/o extra fuel and had some really fun preignition.
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beats me what the fuck happened to it. i think the block is salvagable with an overbore, but i just might part it out. keep the rods for a d, sell the crank/pan/whatever else, scrap the rest. looks like i have at least 2 good complete heads with IM and another one that might need reworked and an an IM that needs a TB. going to tear into the b1 bottom end tomorrow
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of course things take longer than hoped. the b1 spins really easy, so i'm not going to pull the mains and rod caps to look at the bearings. the only thing that bothers me is in one of the cyls:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi91.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk295%2Fonlyflash944%2FFor%2520Sale%2F91%2520Civic%2520Sedan%2FIMG_3626.jpg&hash=ebfddb7a58956184d3f4001e1d8ea06524655526)
see the small discoloration from i guess a ring end gap on the wall? anyone think that will be a problem in say, the next 500 miles? it isn't even a grove that i can feel with my fingernail so i'm not too worried about it.
another question. what is the 0.8 uder the pr4 on the piston for? i thought i found the answer but i guess not:
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=822417 (http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=822417)
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honda has no tech didn't help abaz out so maybe you all can. it's a common question from searching and no one seems to know. i don't care, but i was just curious
I also need a new timing belt for this set up, b1 block a1 head. haven't gotten the crank pulley off of the a1 yet to compare the crank sprocket but i'm betting that it won't matter about which belt to get. anyone have one shoot me a pm. if you have a new water pump for cheap i'd like that too, else i just will keep the one on it that is there.
cyl head is going to the machine shop for the 32 dollar resurface tomorrow.
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does anyone know the specific markings on stock ls camshafts? i want to know how to identify obd0 from obd1
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does anyone know the specific markings on stock ls camshafts? i want to know how to identify obd0 from obd1
Irrelevant, they both suck.
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does anyone know the specific markings on stock ls camshafts? i want to know how to identify obd0 from obd1
Irrelevant, they both suck.
relevant, i possibly already have both and don't have to spend money on another item that i'm going to be putting in a car just to sell and turn a profit
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Irrelevant, sorry. They both suck. If you can't pick one set over the other, just eyeball the profiles.
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aaaaaaaaaaaaaand the clutch and pp from the 90 integra are done like a fucking cake. Of course, the extra stock clutch I have from the 94 B1 setup doens't fit the input shaft on the transmission. Ebay has them for under 80 so I'm grabbin one of them bitches. Going to pick up the head today, and drop off flywheel to have resurfaced
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Thanks for moving this to the proper section
Aight, I need some help. I'm using the B1 block and there is what looks like maybe an oil temp sensor that I don't what to do with, as well as a coolant temp sensor that doesn't match up between the two blocks. I'm just going to use the Tstat housing and water pipe off the A1 block so I don't have to worry about that sensor, but the oil sensor (highlighted) off the back of the block I dont' know if I should try to switch it out. It looks like it might be a 34mm plug which I don't have. Hell I don't even know for sure if it will unscrew. Any insight would be helpful
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Now the Integra wiring harness doesn't seem to have this plug in it, but the civic does. It's like a right angle plug and I'm having to use the engine bay harness out of the integra because the civic didn't have one at all. Anyone know what this goes to?
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Some pictures from the build. Block cleaned up and ready for the new HG and resurfaced head
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8 thou missing
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Everything going back together with assembley lube
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Picked up a new front and rear main seal and the camshaft seals today so those will be installed soon. Also going to get a new timing belt even though the one I have looks pretty good, I just think it will make the car sell for more with the new stuff installed and the reciepts in hand
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bump for some help on the last post
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thanks for the help
and replacing the tob is a bitohc on cable traniies when yor drunk
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motor is in. but damn it if theres more shit to swap out than i expected. apparently the p/s a/c throttle cable and who knows what else needs changed. i've given up on getting the LS engine harness to work in the civic shell. just too much shit to rewire. ill upload pics later
so if anyone has a obd0 mpfi harness on the cheap that isn't hacked up, lmk
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are you sure you need a mpfi harness and not a dpfi harness that you convert to mpfi?
the mpfi harness won't work with a dpfi underdash harness
fuck if i know. this shit was hacked up bigtime before i got it. how can i tell if it is a mpfi or dpfi chassis? the trim level on the trunk is gone and the car didn't come with a engine harness, so i'm clueless
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no engine harness when i bought the car. guy said he used a rywire to run the engine but it had a z6 head and he wasn't using vtec.
wtb: dpfi obd0 harness. i can use the LS mpfi to do a conversion
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so i just looked at your original post and saw that it had an eg si harness.
so i have no idea about that.
however you can see "LX" on the trunk so i'm guessing you will need a dpfi harness. unless he fucked the interior harness too.
both the engine harness and interior harness have to be the same or else there is major problems.
damn these obd0 cars. shit is complicated. if it were obd1 i'd be finished by now
guess i'll look for a dpfi harness and go from there and hope for the best
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if you want to spend a little money there is a guy on HT that sells dpfi harness pre converted to mpfi.
that's what i was gonna do to my hatch. since i think my harness is bad, i was gonna have to buy another harness and convert it my self. cheapest harness i found was $100.
this guy sells them converted for $140 shipped
http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2433707 (http://hondamarketplace.com/showthread.php?t=2433707)
i don't know how much the dpfi harness goes for around you, but $140 is a good price from my searching
i had already found a mpfi harness for 70 about an hour away on CL. honda stuff is fairly cheap here. i'll scope out the breakers around here and take a better look on cl for parts cars. i can do the conversion myself, to save a few bucks. doesnt' look that hard, especially when compared to trying to make that ls harness work in teh civic, lol
has the under dash harness been messed with at all?
if it has, then you might want to verify it's a dpfi harness under there too. i'm not sure how to check that.
i don't even know. i'll look tomorrow. thanks for helping a obd0 newb out
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yeah the conversion is easy, i just figured i'd spend the extra $40 and get it all done from one place. saves me driving around looking for the dpfi harness
scored a dpfi harness at the local pick and pull, 15 min from my house. harness and pocket full of free goodies was $35. that harness looks like a good candidate for the conversion, but the under dash is a little iffy. I have my concerns. I want to continuity check everything before i start cutting and repinning
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I'd rather repin an OBD1 harness than deal with a rotted out OBD1 harness.
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I'd rather repin an OBD1 harness than deal with a rotted out OBD1 harness.
This.
I also like using OBD2 harnesses, repinned to OBD1 and then splice the 12 or so chassis wires as needed.
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well i got the conversion done. ran out of heat shrink tubing so the last 8 or so joints are just twisted with tape for now. i'll solder them up later. got a few more things to do before i see how good of a electrician i am. throttle cable swap is the big one and fill with oil. not too worried about shift linkage/clutch cable, a/c and p/s, and the exhaust for the test fire. i'll do them later
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on the tps, do i need the green or the yellow wire on top? shit is trying to run but it won't fire
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VICTORY IS MINE
throwing a 4,5, and 14 code and it DEFINATLEY needs the valves adjusted but it runs. done for the night, neighbors probably don't like hearing cars run without the exhaust manifold on
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awesome, congrats
4 crank position sensor
5 map
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
have fun
yea, i already looked them up. the map sensor and eacv are easy, as i didn't hook up a single vacuum line to the intake mani, the crank position i'm not sure about, as it was two of the four wires i ran through the fire wall. i just threw everything on that i needed to to get it running. it idled on it's own for about 30 secondes and i shut it down because the only cooling system component installed is the tstat.
lots to do to get it on the road, but today was a milestone for me
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yea, i already looked them up. the map sensor and eacv are easy, as i didn't hook up a single vacuum line to the intake mani,
IACV code means the ECU doesn't etect one. There are no vacuum hoses associated with the IACV operation or its throwing CELs.
the crank position i'm not sure about
Polarity, but it might not be the TDC sensor thats backwards. If base timing is correct then TDC is wired correctly and its one of the other sensors out of phase.
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yea, i already looked them up. the map sensor and eacv are easy, as i didn't hook up a single vacuum line to the intake mani,
IACV code means the ECU doesn't etect one. There are no vacuum hoses associated with the IACV operation or its throwing CELs.
well then i'll have to look into that one. it was off of the intake manifold because i pressure washed it at the car wash to get some of the gunk out of the inside so i might have messed it up or something. anyway the car isn't but 60% together so once i get it all installed the right way then i'll worry about it.
the crank position i'm not sure about
Polarity, but it might not be the TDC sensor thats backwards. If base timing is correct then TDC is wired correctly and its one of the other sensors out of phase.
polarity was my first guess, as i might have switched the two wires a I ran. it was hard to start and i remember reading that if you hook it up backward it retards the timing a lot. i'll play with it and see.
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am I really going to have to spend 100+ bucks on a bracket for the a/c or fab one up?
can i use the stock b18 compressor and just run new lines and clear the rad and crossmember?
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looks like it's time to make one of these diy brackets
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg177.imageshack.us%2Fimg177%2F8330%2Facincrx002fj4.jpg&hash=c91e2d138bbc399498647cd2cb79fe07ae2e7341)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg179.imageshack.us%2Fimg179%2F3495%2Facincrx003sp0.jpg&hash=3e502d3a9255a854b69827b817b4a83f212448a6)
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i almost did that with my civic, but ended up not wanting ac anymore
I want it because i'm not keeping the car. more shit that works = more money in my pocket, which will be spent on the next project: 2000 Cavalier UCAR.
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wat
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wat
U Can Afford Racing. el cheap-o stock car circle track racing
http://www.motormilespeedway.com/_mms_2008/news.php (http://www.motormilespeedway.com/_mms_2008/news.php)
Motor Mile Speedway UCAR (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPcDTqx_GFQ#normal)
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You would waste a perfectly good Cavalier on that? Screams 01+ Civic to me.
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You would waste a perfectly good Cavalier on that? Screams 01+ Civic to me.
per rule book, '80 and newer 4 cyl sohc AMERICAN made fwd 105" and shorter wheel base car
got the roll cage on order, and I want this civic on the road to pick it up at the end of this week, as it is a decent roadtrip.
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Cavaliers are Mexican.
Sounds like you want an Accord.
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Cavaliers are Mexican.
Sounds like you want an Accord.
sounds like you want these guys, they allow imports
http://www.ucarclash.com/ (http://www.ucarclash.com/)
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Oh, so I'm not one of your people. I see how it is.
*sob*
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the people i'm racing with at the motormile is like 25 min from my house. the imports are donw in NC, closer to you probably than me
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drag strip opens tomorrow. trying to get the car road ready to take it there. got a lot of little shit to do before tomorrow at 6.
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well i can't get the code 14 to go away. swapped the eacv with a known good one and the code still doesn't go away. i tried testing continuity from A11 to the plug and got nothing, so hopefully i was able to shove the test leads on the multimeter in the plug good enough where it was making contact and there is infact an open in the wire somewhere.
now for another problem. i'm loosing spark. when the engine is cold, and when its cooler outside (like in the morning or evenings here in va) the car starts easy enough. then after it warms up, the damn thing just dies when you give it gas, unless you EASE the throttle down, then it will actually rev. all this is in neutral. as soon as it warms up and you put a load on teh engien trying to pull out it dies dead as a doornail. can't get it to start cause there is no spark. does this sound like a coil gone bad?
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Bust out the multimeter for the coil
also you sure you dont have the iat/iacv plugs mixed up?
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Bust out the multimeter for the coil
and do what? a continuity check when its hot vs when it is cold? i'm 84% sure its the coil
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also you sure you dont have the iat/iacv plugs mixed up?
uhh definatley not sure. didn't even think about it because it's obd0 and that didn't cross my mind of usual shit that could be wrong. i'll check tomorrow
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I mixed up the iat/iacv plugs back in the old school days when i was 17-18 doing my first swaps. I have seen numerous people do it as they are the same plug so it can be an easy f-up.
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uhh so what happens when the key is on and you plug in the A connector to the ecu?
i was doing a continuity test between A11 and the blue yellow wire i had hooked up to the iat plug (i'm pretty sure they were backward, thanks for the help), and i had the key in the on position. wasn't thinking and plugged in the connector with the key on and now i get a solid cel the whole time while cranking and the ecu throws a 1 code on the service light in the ecu. i hear the fuel pump prime and the main relay clicks. all fuses look good. did i fry the ecu?
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need some help
the cel won't go off. All the fuses are fine. i've cleaned up the tstat ground really well and ever since i plugged in the a ecu plug with the key on i can't get the damn cel to go away. stays on while cranking the whole time. with the key on i'm getting voltage to A12, A13, A14, and A15, but NOT A2 and A4. wtf did i mess up? main relay?
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i just reflowed all the joints on the main relay. it clicks three times like it's supposed to. CEL still stays on constantly
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solid ecu of death code
I have seen this either with a trashed ecu on a bad chip job but if it was working before you may have friend something in the board
I also have had that happen with the thermostat ground not being hooked up/bad connection also.
You have a spare ecu laying around? any obdo mpfi ecu will do the job. Also crack open that ecu and smell the board. I know it sounds like redneck shit but if you fried something you will smell it for sure. If you dont smell anything put the ecu under a shop light sometimes seeing burns on the board is hard to see in normal lighting.
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solid ecu of death code
I have seen this either with a trashed ecu on a bad chip job but if it was working before you may have friend something in the board
I also have had that happen with the thermostat ground not being hooked up/bad connection also.
You have a spare ecu laying around? any obdo mpfi ecu will do the job. Also crack open that ecu and smell the board. I know it sounds like redneck shit but if you fried something you will smell it for sure. If you dont smell anything put the ecu under a shop light sometimes seeing burns on the board is hard to see in normal lighting.
i have a pr3 i traded for, same code and issue. Tstat ground shoudl be great. car ran fine, then the ecu crapped out. cleand up ground didn't fix problem. i'll go over the board to see if i find anything obvious.
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sniff test is negative. the ecu looks clean. all caps look fine and there isn't anything burned up or black that i can tell. i'll recheck all the fuses and grounds again tomorrow. i fucking HATE electrical bull shit
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it appears not to be the ecu. got a fresh pr4 from stevemode and the shit has the same problem. i'm fucking tired of cars not running because of electrical bullshit. why can't it just be a blown head gasket or something easy like that.
anyone else have any ideas? guess im gonna start finding EVERY ground i can and sand it even though the car ran fine before this whole debacle
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Im assuming you popped a fuse but Im sure you checked that already.
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Im assuming you popped a fuse but Im sure you checked that already.
every fucking one, at least twice. i'm going to swap every one with a new one, and take out the bolt in ones and replace with spares today. maybe i'll get lucky
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fuel/spark which one doesnt it have?
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fuel/spark which one doesnt it have?
Could be worse, no compression. :?:
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fuel/spark which one doesnt it have?
fuel pump primes with key on. main relay clicks like it's supposed to, all three times. while cranking there is no spark and the CEL stays on constant.
i have sanded t stat ground, front upper rad support to valve cover ground, every one of the bolt in big fuses under the hood, checked every blade style fuse in the vehicle, tried 4 different ecu's and all the exact same thing. i guess it time to start tracing wires. somewhere there is an open circut or something. where else should i check the grounds at?
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Tstat ground is what I have seen cause the solid code ecu and not starting. I would persoanlly redo the whole tstat grounding it is 20 years old.
From my years that ground is the one that seems to really tweak everything out of its not happy.
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Tstat ground is what I have seen cause the solid code ecu and not starting. I would persoanlly redo the whole tstat grounding it is 20 years old.
From my years that ground is the one that seems to really tweak everything out of its not happy.
the tstat ground is super clean. i have continuity between that and a shit ton of things in the ecu plugs. i'm looking up where the wires on the ring terminal on the tstat ground go right now so i can bypass them and see if that helps. i'm thinking a wire burnt in two or something. this shit is wierd and frustrating as hell
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Tstat ground is what I have seen cause the solid code ecu and not starting. I would persoanlly redo the whole tstat grounding it is 20 years old.
From my years that ground is the one that seems to really tweak everything out of its not happy.
the tstat ground is super clean. i have continuity between that and a shit ton of things in the ecu plugs. i'm looking up where the wires on the ring terminal on the tstat ground go right now so i can bypass them and see if that helps. i'm thinking a wire burnt in two or something. this shit is wierd and frustrating as hell
You can have all the continuity between ecu and THAT HALF of the t-stat housing... If the bolts are rusty and the threads pure white aluminum oxide dust, you won't get shit for continuity from the housing to the actual engine block. I always chase the threads on the housing and block, lap (sand flat) the housing halves where they touch, and also sand the parts where the block/housing meet.
If you wanted to try a full hotwire, feed+12v to the two white/green wires between main relay & ecu, and +12v to the yellow/blk wires on the injectors.
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Tstat ground is what I have seen cause the solid code ecu and not starting. I would persoanlly redo the whole tstat grounding it is 20 years old.
From my years that ground is the one that seems to really tweak everything out of its not happy.
the tstat ground is super clean. i have continuity between that and a shit ton of things in the ecu plugs. i'm looking up where the wires on the ring terminal on the tstat ground go right now so i can bypass them and see if that helps. i'm thinking a wire burnt in two or something. this shit is wierd and frustrating as hell
You can have all the continuity between ecu and THAT HALF of the t-stat housing... If the bolts are rusty and the threads pure white aluminum oxide dust, you won't get shit for continuity from the housing to the actual engine block. I always chase the threads on the housing and block, lap (sand flat) the housing halves where they touch, and also sand the parts where the block/housing meet.
If you wanted to try a full hotwire, feed+12v to the two white/green wires between main relay & ecu, and +12v to the yellow/blk wires on the injectors.
the shit was cleaned up good when i put the new tstat in when i 'rebuilt' the motor. i will double check and since i just filled it with water it won't be hard to do. i was also thinking about just connecting every ground to each other that i can find.
the hot wire sound like it might burn the car to the gorund. that would probably be okay with me right now, as long as it doesn't take out the 944 that is sitting beside it
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ok, so with the key ON, i'm only getting about 10 milliVolts (0.01 Volts) at the injectors. sound like i need a new main relay?
there is continuity between the injector wire with the resistor and the main relay at terminals 4, 5, and 7 with key off
found a very useful site:
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html (http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html)
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found a very useful site:
http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html (http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html)
Bookmarked looks helpful. ;D :noel: :yes:
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it wasn't the main relay causing problems. one from the pick and pull didn't change the constant CEL symptom.
could it be something in the dizzy gone bad?
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Any Update???
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Any Update???
uhh yea. swapped all the internals in the dizzy with some other obd0 ones i had floating around. it will start and run great, except for the code 14. i'm at a loss because with iacv plugged in it throws a code like 10 sec after start up, with several different ecus. drives fine until it gets warm. same story with the sensor unplugged. so whatever.
the bigger problem. once the car gets warm and i start driving it, it pops the ecu fuse. when it pops the fuse, i can replace it immediately and turn the key to the key on position and it pops it again. i have to let it cool down a little and throw a new fuse in to get it back running, just for a short stent.
the other day, when i found out about the fuse problem, i took the car on the highway and got stranded like 3 min from my house. it kept poping fuses and i didn't have the right tags on the car so i wanted to get off the highway as soon as possible to avoid any 5-0 visits. i used a wire to jump the fuse connection just to get it home and the ecu i believe went to limp mode. probably burned something up. it wouldn't rev pas 3k on the way home so whatever, i have a few more of them to try.
readers digest:
car runs, iacv has some issues and keeps blowing ecu fuses
i fucking hate electrical bull shit
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Did you try swapping the plugs... iacv & iat on the back, they have the same plug..
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Did you try swapping the plugs... iacv & iat on the back, they have the same plug..
Blindly swapping those plugs "just to see" is the #1 killer of IATs and ECUs, fucktard. Don't EVER do that shit.
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the 2p connector for the iacv is the correct one. however, the integrity of the wiring going to it is still suspect
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word melted iat sensors are no good. Do any of the newer forms of crome have an option to disable the iacv?
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word melted iat sensors are no good. Do any of the newer forms of crome have an option to disable the iacv?
obd0 boss, i ain't doin a conversion. but i do have a chipped pr4 that i could use something for
might be worth looking into
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Well i've done some wire tracing and it looks like fuse 37 (ECU under hood fuse) runs from the power distribution to the main relay. I'm going to try and replace the white/yellow wire than runs between the two with something else and hopefully that will solve the problem. If it doesn't then I'm still taking it to the strip tomorrow on a trailer cause I'm tired of not getting to run. I'll just keep the car cool and hope for the best.
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Any updates?
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replaced wire, no more fuse problem. went to strip and i think i blew out a cv joint. it vibrates bad under power but goes away when coasting. haven't had time to fix yet, but will soon as i need it sold. i found a nice awd wagon that is rust free and needs a engine so that will be next.
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Sounds like inner joint is binding.
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not sure. it didn't do it before the strip, and even with the 175 size tires aired down to 15psi, it grabbed pretty well but would spin them halfway through first. when i get some time i'll have to check it out.
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Well the only springs and shocks I had for it were off the front of the 90 integra I parted out. They sit WAY to high, so I'm headed to the JY to pick up some 91 CRX ones for cheap. The d/s axle clicks a pretty good bit when you have it out and are twisting it back and forth so I'm gonna go check what kind of shape the JY has for axles as well.
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I have some clean cable b series ones since I use hydro shaft/axles on my stuff.
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I have some clean cable b series ones since I use hydro shaft/axles on my stuff.
normally i would jump on it but i need the car up and running. junk yard has some, if they are shit i'll let you know
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It was a driver's side axle. I went ahead and threw the lower springs on the front just to take some of the strain of the axle. With the integra front suspension on it, the front end sat a good bit higher. I think they needed shocks anyway cause the front end would bounce around like all hell on rough turns so i'm looking at a set of aftermarket stuff off the F/S section to throw under it and it still ride nice. I want to keep the coil overs for a CRX i have sitting around.
Car runs great. The integrated control unit I believe is bad because the alert that the driver is unbuckeled never stops dinging. Even after you put your belts on, it constantly dings. Also, the power shoulder belt doesn't move. I think the unit controls both. Has anyone had the integrated control unit go bad before?
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Need some help with the reverse lights.
They don't come on when I have the vehicle in reverse. And heres a cool one, the car will keep running if the gear shift is in reverse and you turn the key off and take the key out. Sounds like something needs repinned at the ecu? Can anyone confirm?
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Reverse light circuit and ECU have no common connections outside of ground. You've known something was fucked with the vehicle for a minute, sir.
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haha, yea pretty much a electrical nightmare. i've got 12v at the engine harness side ground of the two wires. going to try running a fresh ground wire and see what happens.
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bypassed the green black wire from the plug to the back of the car and the lights work just fine and the car turns of with the key in reverse. time to get this bad boy inspected.
on a side note, i've put right at 2k miles on it, and i've been averaging about 31 mpg. craig's suspension is tits and i just gotta fix all these small problems and the car will be for sale soon.
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My gold civic did that after i did my dohc zc swap back in high school no reverse lights and stayed on in reverese. i drove the car that way for 10 years LOL
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ok. so now the civic has a good bit of negative camber. I'd like to get a little more positive. anyone ever slotted the upper control arm bolt holes in the shock towers?
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We did the old CRX like that in the high 400 whp range. It never saw highway miles like that, but it held the power without slipping between alignments.
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Option A is to slot the holese. Option B is to drill two new holes maybe half an inch away and use those. I'm going to wear out the inside shoulders of two brand new tires in 5k miles at this rate if I don't do anything.
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Corner harder?
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Corner harder?
were talking alot of negative camber here. and since the car is getting low 30s in the mpg department, i cruise everywhere on the highway. i need to rig up a camber gauge.