:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Engine Management => Topic started by: hotrex on February 11, 2010, 07:06:53 PM
-
got a new toy in the stable and no i cant run crome. can run some chips but would rather wire in megasquirt with a conversion harness from diy autotune. is it worth it.?
-
only at >66% throttle O0
-
whats the new toy.
-
miata?
lolz
-
edis is nice and wont crap out until about 9000 in most cases, but, no spark only rev limiter, only fuel, so if your boosted you'll have to build it into the spark table somehow.
for many cars, edis is no longer necessary, because most of the oem trigger wheels are supported. i believe MSII is also able to drive up to six COP ignitors using add on high current drivers. you can do the embedded magnet crank pulley thing, and trigger almost any ignition you want with high current drivers. some people have problems with COPs not charging fast enough to run in wasted spark, in almost every case it was fixed by adding a cam sensor.
there is a fuck ton of engines supported now, just look here:
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Ignition.htm (http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Ignition.htm)
-
91 volvo 740 turbo wagon. b230ft
-
Crome.
-
looks the same as the old bosch setup, if you have a LH distributor, then it has a 4 window hall sensor, and megasquirt can trigger from it directly.
i dont think all the volvo ignitors are same (dwell/no dwell) i dont know for sure. the v3 hardware has a single coil driver built in, i think you would be better off using that instead of the bosch ignitor (most new megasquirts sold are v3). using the megasquirt coil driver will simplify things allot. for the most part all bosch coils are the same, weak. so i would ditch the the bosch coil and put a HEI coil on it (v3 can drive HEI coils directly), that way you can have a hotter coil and get away with running more gap per pound of boost, blah blah blah, and not really spend anymore money.
if you still want to ditch the distributor, you can just add another coil driver to megasquit (not hard at all) and drive a edis/neon/gm wasted spark coilpack directly. and trigger megasquirt from a flying magnet crank pulley setup, and still not really have to buy anything except a crank trigger pickup.
i think you could just buy a edis trigger wheel that fit right on a b230, but nobody really uses edis anymore so i dont if you can still get them.
also, what ever setup you decide on, make sure to mark the crank pulley at -10deg, then run it with a flat 10deg btdc map, and verify with a timing light. i cant remember how many times ive seen out of wack timing on setups that i didnt even think it was possible to fuck up. there is all kinds of ways to screw it up, inverted hall inputs, off the wall dwell numbers, offsets built into the crank decoder for different engines, fucked up filtering numbers, magnetic vs flux hall sensors, and thats just the shit i can remember. i would fully expect a prefect setup, running with its original crank trigger wheel intact, to be 1-3 deg off for no good reason at all.
-
In all honestly my edis system works great. BUT, it took a long fucking time to get it like that with a lot of fucking around.
-
91 volvo 740 turbo wagon. b230ft
If you manage to blow that up like the others, that means you're trying to. Or your kid is throwing shit down the spark plug holes.
-
i have megasquirt v3.0 on my miata and had v2.2 on my old turbo probe. i have never had a problem out of either. it will do what you need it to and do it on the cheap.
-
i have megasquirt v3.0 on my miata and had v2.2 on my old turbo probe. i have never had a problem out of either. it will do what you need it to and do it on the cheap.
Maybe I'm stupid, but I can't seem to find Megasquirt III for sale. I can online find Megasquiirt II v 3.0
-
i have megasquirt v3.0 on my miata and had v2.2 on my old turbo probe. i have never had a problem out of either. it will do what you need it to and do it on the cheap.
Maybe I'm stupid, but I can't seem to find Megasquirt III for sale. I can online find Megasquiirt II v 3.0
He is referring to the board revision number, not the version of MS firmware.
-
when i start screwing around with this stuff there were only two versions to deal with, i guess all this has become pretty confuseing
megasquirt, all the pretty colors:
msI-v1.0: the frist fuel only production megasquirt
msI-v2.0: if i recall, this was shit caned after the frist group buy and became v2.2
msI-v2.2: fuel only 8x8 tables, this is the version that really caught on.
msIextra-v2.2: is the same thing but with the extra code loaded on the chip, it has 16x16 fuel and spark tables, n2o, boost control, blah, blah, blah
msII-v2.2: this the v2.2 board with the msII chip which has a faster cpu and stepper iac driver on it, it dose most of the shit that msI extra dose only its made by B&G and has better enrichments (extau), better accel & deccel, wide band ego support, etc.
msIIextra-v2.2: this is the same thing but with the extra code loaded, operationaly there is not to much difference here, the tables are the same size, both can map/maf blend, accel & deccel are the same, the real difference here is ignition. it will support almost any crank trigger setup, and almost any coil setup (single, wasted spark, coil on plug) it also has an improved boost controller.
msII-v3.0: these are the new boards with msII chips. the new board has a single channel ignition driver built in, the fly back hardware is also inclueded so high or low Z injectors are no problem, there is also a vr/hal/opto/points conditioner circuit that can trigger from almost anything.
msIIextra-v3.0: same thing but with the extra code loaded. because msIIextra supports so many crank trigger wheels, and the v3 hardware has all the nice conditioner circuits and ignition drivers, all it takes is a few ecu hardware mods to run almost any engine out there.
msI-v3.0: these are the newer borads the msI chips. i list it here because these units are being sold and it can be confuseing for someone who dose not know all the ms types
msIextra-v3.0: same thing with msI extra code
-
Fuck the edis shit, you won't have a spark cut limiter, and can't cut timing past 10 btdc on the 2-step.
Run the ms2 extra code, use the ford 36-1 trigger wheel and sensor and then use the spark outputs going to a dsm ignitor and then whatever coil setup you want.
This will give you a spark cut limiter, flat shift, and a two step that can cut retard timing back to 10 atdc and cut spark
(instant 20+ pounds of boost)
This is the setup I'm running on my starlet and it works frigging great.
aww shit, just seen it was a 2.2 board, not a ms2
but you can do about the same setup with the ms1. Just look at the instructions for modding it for a dsm, but leave the inputs setup for a trigger wheel.
-
Can I get more info on this please?
-
more shit then anyone ever wanted to know about ignition...
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Ignition.htm (http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Ignition.htm)
i thought edis could be driven below 10deg, it just cant cut out a cycle or be turned off without defaulting to 10deg.
-
more shit then anyone ever wanted to know about ignition...
http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Ignition.htm (http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms2extra/MS2-Extra_Ignition.htm)
i thought edis could be driven below 10deg, it just cant cut out a cycle or be turned off without defaulting to 10deg.
They did it by messing with the voltage to the coils iirc. Not something im really interested in. I'm probably gonna run the 36-1 wheel with the VR sensor and use either honda or bosche ignitors to fire a ford coil