:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Engine Management => Topic started by: SloS13 on February 11, 2010, 10:14:00 PM
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I definitely need to set my injector battery offset for my SRT4 injectors on a b-series.
Couple questions:
In Crome, there's an 'offset' in the advanced table in fuel tools. Is that it?
In Advanced tabes, there's 2 Injector battery offset things (Stock) and (Advanced). I've got shit in there for stock, but not in advanced.
So...should I be fucking with the (Stock) values or the ones in fuel tools.
On a possibly-related note, im having to run a .72 multiplier (way higher than I would think I would need) to get them to idle @ 14.x AFR with a 0 offset.
Should I try and find the correct offset, then adjust my multiplier or visa versa?
I hooked up a voltmeter to my cig lighter so I should be able to figure out good inj batt offsets which I'm gonna do tomorrow. Got confused and quit for the day.
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I definitely need to set my injector battery offset for my SRT4 injectors on a b-series.
Couple questions:
In Crome, there's an 'offset' in the advanced table in fuel tools. Is that it?
In Advanced tabes, there's 2 Injector battery offset things (Stock) and (Advanced). I've got shit in there for stock, but not in advanced.
So...should I be fucking with the (Stock) values or the ones in fuel tools.
On a possibly-related note, im having to run a .72 multiplier (way higher than I would think I would need) to get them to idle @ 14.x AFR with a 0 offset.
Should I try and find the correct offset, then adjust my multiplier or visa versa?
I hooked up a voltmeter to my cig lighter so I should be able to figure out good inj batt offsets which I'm gonna do tomorrow. Got confused and quit for the day.
Use whatever multiplier it gives you, adjust offset as you need to to get the car to idle at 14.7
The advanced tables are for adjusting for batt voltage, ie idle the car and start turning on everything that causes load, see if your AFR changes and adjust that table accordingly.
I'll be honest, I never did but I was never using huge injectors or anything that finicky about low pulsewidths.
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Use whatever multiplier it gives you, adjust offset as you need to to get the car to idle at 14.7
The advanced tables are for adjusting for batt voltage, ie idle the car and start turning on everything that causes load, see if your AFR changes and adjust that table accordingly.
I'll be honest, I never did but I was never using huge injectors or anything that finicky about low pulsewidths.
Sweet thanks for the advice. I'll try that tomorrow. Reason for bringing up the batt offsets is because the AFR leans out like PISS when I put a load on the alternator.
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At least you know what to do, let us know how it turns out after you tune the battery offset table.
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Scale map to your injectors, and mess with the offset box in the fuel multiplier until you get the car to idle at whatever you want it to idle at. Then go mess with the battery offset table.
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Use whatever multiplier it gives you, adjust offset as you need to to get the car to idle at 14.7
The advanced tables are for adjusting for batt voltage, ie idle the car and start turning on everything that causes load, see if your AFR changes and adjust that table accordingly.
I'll be honest, I never did but I was never using huge injectors or anything that finicky about low pulsewidths.
Sweet thanks for the advice. I'll try that tomorrow. Reason for bringing up the batt offsets is because the AFR leans out like PISS when I put a load on the alternator.
Yup, that's what the table is for I guess.
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Scale map to your injectors, and mess with the offset box in the fuel multiplier until you get the car to idle at whatever you want it to idle at. Then go mess with the battery offset table.
+1
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Crome will make you turn into a mexican.
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Better an honest hard working MexiCAN than a frat boy.
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I'm a frat boy, there goods ones out there as well as bad ones.
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I'm a frat boy, there goods ones out there as well as bad ones.
most are douchebags
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Have you figured your shit out yet?
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I'm a frat boy, there goods ones out there as well as bad ones.
most are douchebags
+1
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I got it pretty much dialed in, with about a .7:1 variance at the different voltages. Out of boredom, I opened up a completely different map and there was no variance at different voltages whatsoever. Tuning is on the backburner right now while I work out some other issues. Basically I just need it good enough to get to JD so he can drop some knowledgeabilities on me.
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Haha, we all need tuning knowledge. Well.... except JD....
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Haha, we all need tuning knowledge. Well.... except JD....
Jd needs tuning knowledge too.
I'm a frat boy, there goods ones out there as well as bad ones.
most are douchebags
+1
Any tuner that says he doesnt need more knowledge is as dumb as you tools who think frat boys are douchebags. Frat boys are no different than the guys here, except in this case you guys are the H-Ter's who think RHMT guys are douchebags.
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only most, not all. im sure there are a few members of HT that arent douchebags. not many, but a few.
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only most, not all. im sure there are a few members of HT that arent douchebags. not many, but a few.
Again you have it wrong, most frat guys are not douchebags, just like 99% of the HT guys i've meet have been cool. Its the small % that are douchebags that everyone bases their opinions on, the douchebags are generally the loadest most noticed.
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Maybe, I have never met anyone from there in person that I have ever seen post. Now that I think about it, I think I spend more time on here in one day than I have spent there ever.
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only most, not all. im sure there are a few members of HT that arent douchebags. not many, but a few.
Again you have it wrong, most frat guys are not douchebags, just like 99% of the HT guys i've meet have been cool. Its the small % that are douchebags that everyone bases their opinions on, the douchebags are generally the loadest most noticed.
i'll give you that one
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Tom, you're too social. 60% of HTers suck, sorry, and of the other 40% most of those are nice and dumb.
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Tom, you're too social. 60% of HTers suck, sorry, and of the other 40% most of those are nice and dumb.
So do you suck or are you nice and dumb???
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I've posted eight times in two years. That makes me a HTer?
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I've posted eight times in two years. That makes me a HTer?
I've always been told that you can fuck a million bitches, but suck one dick and your a faggot forever.
Your a Hter, you and your many thousands of posts on there.
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So I got this here map but for some reason launch control isnt an option. Don't ask me where I got the map from because I forgot. I dont need launch control but im wondering why it isnt there.
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Could it be a Crome Gold map? I haven't tried to open one on a non-pro Crome version so I'm not sure if you are even able to open it without an error message.
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go to "plugins" and add it
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Ah, duh, it's "add extra features" thanks!
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I got it pretty much dialed in, with about a .7:1 variance at the different voltages. Out of boredom, I opened up a completely different map and there was no variance at different voltages whatsoever. Tuning is on the backburner right now while I work out some other issues. Basically I just need it good enough to get to JD so he can drop some knowledgeabilities on me.
Fuck tuning, 4th gear ripper vids required asap.
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Scale map to your injectors, and mess with the offset box in the fuel multiplier until you get the car to idle at whatever you want it to idle at. Then go mess with the battery offset table.
I know this is an old post, but are we talking about the "stock" or "advanced" battery offset table here? I'm having the same issue where it leans way out when I put a load on the alt. My afr's are perfect at idle and 13.9 volts, when I start turning shit on my voltage drops to about 13.2 volts and it goes 17:1.
Also, I notice that at idle sometimes my afr's are right on the money but they still fluctuate btween say 14.5-15.3:1 or so, also the vacuum and rpm fluctuate but just barely like 50-100rpm but enough to switch cel's and change the afr's. How do I smooth out the afr's and idle?
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Scale map to your injectors, and mess with the offset box in the fuel multiplier until you get the car to idle at whatever you want it to idle at. Then go mess with the battery offset table.
I know this is an old post, but are we talking about the "stock" or "advanced" battery offset table here? I'm having the same issue where it leans way out when I put a load on the alt. My afr's are perfect at idle and 13.9 volts, when I start turning shit on my voltage drops to about 13.2 volts and it goes 17:1.
I've not used Crome in years and don't know off the top of my head, but I'd have figured that out in ten minutes worth of fooling around. So can you.
Also, I notice that at idle sometimes my afr's are right on the money but they still fluctuate btween say 14.5-15.3:1 or so, also the vacuum and rpm fluctuate but just barely like 50-100rpm but enough to switch cel's and change the afr's. How do I smooth out the afr's and idle?
Try tuning the cell's the idle fluctuates to and around. Hint: You are never running off of the value of the cell that's highlighted, it's somewhere between that cell and the adjacent one(s). The highlighted cell is just the one it's closest to.
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I've not used Crome in years and don't know off the top of my head, but I'd have figured that out in ten minutes worth of fooling around. So can you.
I have changed the values in the "stock" injector battery offset tables and havent really noticed much if any difference in bringing the afr's back down, and the "advance" table kinda scare's me since all the values in it currently are 0. So I'm not sure what I would even start changing values too in that table, can the battery injector offset "advance" table have negative numbers in it?
Try tuning the cell's the idle fluctuates to and around. Hint: You are never running off of the value of the cell that's highlighted, it's somewhere between that cell and the adjacent one(s). The highlighted cell is just the one it's closest to.
That hint if correct is a good one, thanks. I always assumed it was reading the value in the highlighted cell.
After a few hours of tuning I've got my afr's to stay pretty stable so I get excited. Then the next time I turn the car on my afr's would be all different, especially at light load its quite frustrating.
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Sounds like shit doesn't work.
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i use to have the problem then i relized tune everything on day and time mark down your last ait baro and ect along with injector puls with the next day see if these values are the same if not just ajust your corrections.