:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Fabrication => Topic started by: malichite on March 30, 2009, 05:51:29 PM
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I am getting ready to build a log mani out of 1.5" sch 10. when I set the t's on the flange it looks like I will need to cut some off to make them line up with the ports. The two t's butting together are fine, but looking at the 90's to the T's, It doesn't seem like you can cut it without cutting into the radius on the T. I could probably cut some of the 90 off but I dont want to cut too much off because I dont think it will meet up with the T well. How do you guys do them? Should I do it with 1.25" instead?
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Miata folks have the same problem and just cut a little off the 90* and a little more off the T. How much do you need to remove to make them fit? Pics? Schedule 40 if it was me though..
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I'll post some pics up tonight. It is a pretty good amount though.
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I'm kind of wondering if it would be better to just use straight pipe and cope in the 2 and 3 runner. I hate coping those pipes though.
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My bet is you can cut into the T enough and a little off the 90 to make it fit, then grind, weld, grind till it looks good and nobody will ever know the difference.
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Yeah, I'll post pics up. It is a decent amount to take out.
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leave the 90's and take it out of the T's. rather cheat the T's where only part of that cyl's exhaust is flowing in the wrong direction through a cheated corner than cheat a 90 with ALL its exhaust is going to be affected.
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post pics dude for how looks your welds with HF tig ;)
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if you take material from the 90 where it mates up with the tee, you will shorten the height of the 90. take material off the tee or be prepared to shorten where the tee meets the flange
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Figured it out. Cut right to the begining of the radius on the T. I then cut about 1/4 out of the 90 and they still meet up pretty good. Just a little step on the bottom but no big deal.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dotnetits.com%2Falbums%2FMalichiteMetals%2F100_2674.sized.jpg&hash=2e42d4e27120be90cc386dbe0ff9564625d3f8df)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dotnetits.com%2Falbums%2FMalichiteMetals%2F100_2673.sized.jpg&hash=7742e8506f9ff111b4ab524508d0a290d70ed27b)
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Is this going to be a AC compatible log?
If so please pm me your parts list and pictures. Because Im thinking of going homedepot style unless I can make it a little cleaner.
JEREMY
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Dont have an AC compressor to mount on my engine to make it AC compatible. It could be I guess. Go to ace stainless and order 2 90s and 2 t's 1 1/2 inch sch 10.
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i've got two entire A/C setups for a EG if you are interested
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98 civic is what Im going to be boosting after the h22.
Pm me pictures and prices . . . I got a 48/63 garrett
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where di u get that fat turbo flange?
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http://straightlinespecialties.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=29_37&products_id=119 (http://straightlinespecialties.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=29_37&products_id=119)
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cool! thx ! iwill be waiting for your welds with the HF :yes:
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98 civic is what Im going to be boosting after the h22.
Pm me pictures and prices . . . I got a 48/63 garrett
A/C compatible FTW!! Here was my sedan.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi51.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff380%2FCSaddict%2Fturbo003.jpg&hash=93724d2c05853b57f11813af3a0c2b2a3fa593ca)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi51.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff380%2FCSaddict%2Flog012.jpg&hash=e5853d3b3dbd2497357e868f931e258fc61e7759)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi51.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Ff380%2FCSaddict%2FDSCF1063.jpg&hash=f8737c7029bf661a403483c542fe96ff2a533a81)
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yep, p/s is nice too
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi91.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk295%2Fonlyflash944%2F50%2520MPG%2FP1010206.jpg&hash=55011581376976b2c45c1c347156d963bdbb681b)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi91.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fk295%2Fonlyflash944%2F50%2520MPG%2FP1010207.jpg&hash=8872007a8c7c6ef8a45191b46e8f2c4b221443c6)
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so how much for the manifold FLASH
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i've got two entire A/C setups for a EG if you are interested
i've got condensers, compressors, evaps, and lines for sale, not manifolds
unless you make me an offer on my a/c and p/s compatible one for a 14b/16g
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Dont have an AC compressor to mount on my engine to make it AC compatible. It could be I guess. Go to ace stainless and order 2 90s and 2 t's 1 1/2 inch sch 10.
So how much to make another ac compatible and down pipe elbo just off the turbo?
Or what was the parts list cost?
At work and cant click on links
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http://straightlinespecialties.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=29_37&products_id=119 (http://straightlinespecialties.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=29_37&products_id=119)
haha check out this review on that site
by Davide Nigro Date Added: Thursday 31 July, 2008
A very good manufacturing, nothing to say about that.
The assembly, squareness, welding is very goog and all the welded parts are backpurged for a optimun welding pipes.
The manifold fits perfectly on car and non problems in assembling it on car and on turbo.
A very good product.
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i had to cut a bit for get it right on mine :yes:
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I'm kind of wondering if it would be better to just use straight pipe and cope in the 2 and 3 runner. I hate coping those pipes though.
Thats your answer, use two 90s, and straight pipe on the rest. That's the only way to get a good fit on the D motors. We switched our log manifold kits for the D to this style. Sch10 will make your coping efforts easier.
We are getting ready to offer prefit kits with these, just weld and go.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tunertoys.com%2Fv%2Fvspfiles%2Fphotos%2FLMKDT3-1.jpg&hash=5f09642a1ada12d3dc9a1ff58b554b8d2809f5f3)
Craig