:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Fabrication => Topic started by: walter on March 31, 2009, 01:53:25 PM
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i know pics sucks and welds but that's what i havent right now.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fimg12.imageshack.us%2Fimg12%2F5159%2F31032009002w.jpg&hash=177784d93af21db2acce9be840c8a902dd1b58fd)
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:noel:
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Is that using the HF tig?
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yup , im waiting for new argon regulator and more argon..
:-[
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be sure you're brushing that pipe off good when you go to making your real welds.
just cause that filler rod says itll handle some scale and light rust dont mean you want it too :)
that one bead doesn't look too bad.
Try to keep your ripples closer together, you're spacing out too far. You want to advance forward say 1/3 the width of the weld at a time. (that's what I visualize) - you don't want the ripples strung out real far apart or too close together. makes weak spots in the weld and the surface invites stress cracking later on.
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You want to advance forward say 1/3 the width of the weld at a time.
Punch me in the damn face, you dont move in one smooth motion accross the part? maybe thats what im doing wrong.
i have never had any tig training but i used to play with it at work some and i came out with some decent stuff. i didnt do it for a few years and now i got my own and i cant seem to get it back.
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ill shoot better pics tomorrow :yes:
thx for advices..
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dip, move, dip, move, dip, move
that is what i've always been told
::Heading out to the garage right now::
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Can we get any video of some of you more baller members. I would love to see how fast and or slow you are moving and your technique in walking the cup vs dip move dip move dip move
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http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v414/Toysrme/Answers/?action=view¤t=toggrips2.flv (http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v414/Toysrme/Answers/?action=view¤t=toggrips2.flv)
did that video along time ago for someone on hmt
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why are you using hf to weld steel? you use hf to weld aluminum. to weld steel and stainless, you use dc straight polarity. to weld aluminum you use ac reverse polarity hf
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i could do some video tig ing some stainless. ill see what i can do
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harbor frieght, not continuous high frequency
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i got today argon + regulator argon (i was using a not gauge cheap regulator ;D).
this is pics with little brother's camera (i dont know use it good as my brother does.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Ffotos.subefotos.com%2F6300fe89ad924a4432973ddf3a6988c9o.jpg&hash=b0d586dd4f98773de9c6e449f90815a0486a9109)
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Argon + new regulator..
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ill begin to practice today , a bit more, how many Litres/minute do you use for welding? ill use today number 5 with 1.6mm (i dont know how the hello is english names of parts of tig lol)
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Turn it down a little and whats your gas flow set at?
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it hasn'tt gauge regulator lol that's why i got new one regulator.
what gas flow i should set it up?
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I run 18-20 on just about everything.
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I run 18-20 on just about everything.
I concur with 18-20 unless you have your tungsten pulled way the fuck out to weld up a bugs asshole. ;D
To get a better idea of the proper heat setting look at the backside of the weld.
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ok, im practicing like 25-30 i think, trying differents flows and currents..
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this is the last one "setup" i tried and looks ok to me..
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what do you think guys, the pipe im using isnt ss, it's just normal steel.
ill begin to cut pipes for make log mani already
thx :-[
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better pic of the last one..
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How thick is the pipe you are welding? Also what are you cleaning the material off with? Looks like there is still something on the surface causing contamination. Turn the heat down a little more. I usually weld Sch10 a little over 4 and thin stuff like that around 2. These numbers make no sense to regular tig guys as they go by amps and we are stuck with this arbitrary numbers. Meh. Keep it up though. Youll get there. Practice on your starts with that machine. That will help a ton. Keep the tungsten sharp. If it ever sticks, pull it out and regrind it. Your starts will get harder and harder the more crap that builds up on the tungsten.
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2mm tickness , yes, i know , im not cleaning it, right now i have better use on starting. tomorrow ill tryng with sch10 already for my log mani. :yes: , i order already more rods since really i havent.
thx for your advice bro. :yes:
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Yeah, clean your material really good. It makes a HUGE difference.
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yes, i know, i just was practicing for to know how works this TIG..not bad for what it costs..
tomorrow, ill begin to make my first mani :evil:
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Here some motivation. This was done with the same tig. Keep practicing man. You'll get there.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dotnetits.com%2Falbums%2Falbum01%2F100_2681.sized.jpg&hash=b9a565295762c5063815fccbb7b9b02af2e76ea3)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.dotnetits.com%2Falbums%2Falbum01%2F100_2677.sized.jpg&hash=810eb24aca94626405af446b0a0917c3c83a8ec0)
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thx mike!
wow!! looks awesome! what rods did u use? what cup #? what flow/current setup?
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some progress...
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i have a problem right now with turbo, does 2mm thickness steel with works ok with log manifold? i have to extend it a bit..
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I built my log out of 2mm stell. It cracked a couple times, so I had to make some braces. After the braces its been fine :)
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oh yep, ill brace it of course thx
i think i was using a high flow setup since you use cfh and here we use lpm, so if you use 18-20 cfh, i was using 18-20lpm, in cfh is i think more than 30 ,kinda high.. ill try with 9-10lpm next week. :yes:
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fucking hard to weld to flange... >:( to got 1.6mm ss rods today and im practicing today ,well really im making the log mani and it's hard to weld good to the head flange..i dont get it get moves forward.. :-\
i was checking some vides last wee 70º for toch and 20º or so for the rod..any input..
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i hope make the hole for wg this days.
i will try to install pedal foot soon too, it's kinda hard to weld the head flange with 304shc10..
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Looks bitchen!
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key is being able to vary your travel speed. gotta get moving fast so you dont burn it up. make sure you are able to keep your travel speed up and make sure the filler & stainless are both clean and that there is the right amount of argon flowing.
depending on the conditions (what pressure does the regulator supply at 50-100psi is common, what type of airflow are you fighting? does the joint naturally trap the shielding gas or does the gas roll out and swirl air back into it from turbulence?)
i run 5-8lpm = 12-16cfh with a gas lens
if no gas lens 15-20cfh = 7-10lpm without
personally i go lower end to save money. provided the arc is stable & there is no electrode or weld contamination.
toss the 1/16" electrodes for 3/32.
trick to flanges (fillet welds) is that the flange will take more heat input than the pipe will take, and it requires more heat input.
WITHOUT angling your torch OR moving it off the joint (outside of the bead width) heat the flange. When it has a molten puddle move towards the pipe. When they both are molten, as the get close to teach other (or merge themselves) give a dab of filler rod. repeate elsewhere.
angles should remain the same. for the fillet welds (flange) that means the torch at a 45* angle. from there you rock your torch back 10-20* for a push angle so you can travel. filler rod runs parallel to the joint and is raised to a 20* angle.
looking good so far.
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thx!
Toysrme, i was welding on 9-10lph , idk what you means about airflow im fighting.
do u meas i should use 3/32 rods? i was using 1/16 (1.6mm) with tungsten 1.6mm too.
yeah iwas looking how to well good flange with pipe, you are right, but i should practice a bit more.
45º? i was using like 70-75º or si fo the torch and the filer like 20º or so. from what i was learning you shuold make 90º between torch and rods..
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airflow, as in drafts, winds, turbulence.
here's a leet ass diag i drew you.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.queeky.com%2Fimage%2F38580.jpg&hash=e98da6b87805d151a9de4bf4310a04715435a554)
pink is your electrode
blue is your filler - around 15-20* for normal welding. if you are using a lay-wire technique the wire shallows up alot as you press it downward into the joint and run over it.
orange describes the throat height (thickness of the throat of your weld) its minimum size is equal to the smallest thickness of your base metals - in your case the pipe, not the flange
red shows you what your torch angle can become when walking the cup. you MUST be careful if you let your cup-walking angle slip too shallow like this. the distance between the electrode and the material becomes very small and you will have cross-contamination - assuming you don't drag the electrode into the puddle!
the best thing to do is to eyeball what you are doing then lay a triangular speed square/angle finder into a joint. what most people find out is that their eyeballed angles are a good 20-30* off when they are starting out and it can trip them up.
90* between the filler & torch, eh, depends on what you are doing. you're not going to see 90* between the torch & filler under the helmet welding so dont worry about how that works out.
work on angles, and having the correct positioning. (not just what angle you're working on but WHERE exactly you're working at)
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should also give one more warning about excessive push angles (laying the torch back too far). you start to suck air from behind the torch under the bottom of your nozzle & it contaminates the weld.
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great! thx!
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today
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done:
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i was wondering if you guys use a kind of fluid or so for clean all welding stuff..
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scotchbrite disk on a die grinder or a while wheel on a bench grinder
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i see, i use this:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.northerntool.com%2Fimages%2Fproduct%2Fimages%2F152047_lg.jpg&hash=cd7fcbe71e8cfb5d67c86b382a2f3c34d484df1c)