:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Joseph Davis on March 14, 2010, 09:05:54 PM
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Proceed.
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I already know what you are doing here JD. This poll sucks.
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Maybe I'm missing some joke as I haven't been on the forum in a minute, but I voted yes.
The real question is "Is it worth turning a Honda crank?"
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And the answer is..... no. But i have done it.
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I already sucked JDs pole.
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I don't remember how it came up, but a shop told me no.
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The shop down the road from me turned my DOHC ZC crank just fine....
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The shop down the road from me turned my DOHC ZC crank just fine....
And sold you undersized bearings, too.
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Don't they come from the factory with some kind of coating or micropolishing on them that comes off if you get it turned?
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Of course you can turn a honda crank. If it works after that who knows. shoulda bought a evo Jew
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Don't they come from the factory with some kind of coating or micropolishing on them that comes off if you get it turned?
You think you're running on that coating?
You think that's air you're breathing?
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Don't they come from the factory with some kind of coating or micropolishing on them that comes off if you get it turned?
You think you're running on that coating?
You think that's air you're breathing?
I lol'ed
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Before or after welding and offset grinding????
Don't forget your fluoride gas treatmeant!
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Don't they come from the factory with some kind of coating or micropolishing on them that comes off if you get it turned?
You think you're running on that coating?
You think that's air you're breathing?
My failboat might actually be running on that coating. F22's knock awesome after they lose oil pressure. Survived 15k of daily flogging so far though
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I've ran "ground" cranks before on honda's, never had any problems. If you get all honda-tech about it they say they are nitrided or some shit and turning them takes that off. Pretty much you're only option when an H23 chows up a bearing.
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My failboat might actually be running on that coating. F22's knock awesome after they lose oil pressure.
If it knocked, the surface hardening is gone.
I've ran "ground" cranks before on honda's, never had any problems. If you get all honda-tech about it they say they are nitrided or some shit and turning them takes that off. Pretty much you're only option when an H23 chows up a bearing.
I'm calling BS. H23 cranks break before a bearing can possibly damage a journal.
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Of course you can turn a honda crank. If it works after that who knows. shoulda bought a evo Jew
FUCK YOU BOB
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I've ran "ground" cranks before on honda's, never had any problems. If you get all honda-tech about it they say they are nitrided or some shit and turning them takes that off. Pretty much you're only option when an H23 chows up a bearing.
Nitride. That's what I was thinking of.
If it knocked, the surface hardening is gone.
Well aware that its fucked. Its been fucked since before I got the car. Now that I've found somewhere that sells motors at non-retarded prices (I'm not paying $400 for a 90k mile F22 longblock), I'm gonna pick up a replacement for this to keep it alive once this one lets go.
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Dude I've never payed a single dime for an F22. People always give them away. I currently have 3 F blocks, 1 complete with no head and the rest are bare. I also have a few H blocks and heads.
Anyways, it is possible to turn a crank. But the real answer is that you should NOT turn a crank. Check to make sure the cranks journals are not out of round and if they fall within spec you'll be able to rev it out to whatever rpm your next weak link will break at.
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I've never come across a free one. Almost got an F23 bottom end for $50, but never found an F for free.
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Dude I've never payed a single dime for an F22. People always give them away. I currently have 3 F blocks, 1 complete with no head and the rest are bare. I also have a few H blocks and heads.
Anyways, it is possible to turn a crank. But the real answer is that you should NOT turn a crank. Check to make sure the cranks journals are not out of round and if they fall within spec you'll be able to rev it out to whatever rpm your next weak link will break at.
I have the same issue except I get D15 and D16z6 for free all the time. I also have two H23 and a trans. just chilling in my garage. ;D
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Rods/bearings ride on a wedge of oil. If its touching the supposed soft crank journal after grinding, you have bigger things to worry about.
Going completely off of porsche bs here, when you have a crank that costs more than most people's cars do, you dont toss it in the trash. I say grinding em is ok.
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Didn't know that one! Good to know just before my build lol
I just need to find a fucking base for less than 200$ to start my build...
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I already sucked JDs pole.
If you are going to troll members on this site, you are going to need to do more than edit their posts with your fantasies. Be original. Why don't you do a MSpaint/photochop or a even a god damned advice dog pic and make an attempt at being a funny little faggot?
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Don't they come from the factory with some kind of coating or micropolishing on them that comes off if you get it turned?
You think you're running on that coating?
You think that's air you're breathing?
I lol'ed
x2
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Turning a Honda crank? Why? I can see offset grinding/welding. You can get enough hardness from the different hardfacing weld techniques to be comparable to nitriding. Regardless, you can grind (still see don't see any reason to actually turn) a nitrided crank just fine, but you should re nitride it afterwards, we did this often when I worked for MB.
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I'm calling BS. H23 cranks break before a bearing can possibly damage a journal.
Noticed frosted flakes durring an oil change, and less than 50 miles later the oil light came on. Instantly shut it off, took it home to find the crank chewed up pretty nice where the bearing was almolst completely squished out of one of the rods. Some other journals were not looking to hot either. Picked up a ground crank with oversized bearing at the auto parts store, threw it together and continued its rapage for few thousand more miles until it was sold.
I was unaware that theese cranks are prone to breaking, I did have the belt off the "balance shaft" for the previous coupple thousand miles maybe that had somthing to do with it.
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ASSuming the crank journals and bearings never touch, as it should be in most situations, I would say yes.
According to conventional 'wisdom,' no.
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Turning a Honda crank? Why?
Ever have trouble finding one that didn't need it?
Regardless, you can turn a nitrided crank just fine, but you should re nitride it afterwards, we did this often when I worked for MB.
Once again you're incorrect.
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The answer is no because honda journals are irregular and inconsistant so if you turn all the journals down to equal you have a nasty mess on your hands if you freshen up all journals including the smallest of the group which generally has the most wear since it has the least amount of area for the bearing to travel on
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The answer is no because honda journals are irregular and inconsistant so if you turn all the journals down to equal you have a nasty mess on your hands if you freshen up all journals including the smallest of the group which generally has the most wear since it has the least amount of area for the bearing to travel on
Nigga what?
The only reason why Honda bearings are setup the way they are is to keep clearances consistent when machining tolerances are not.
Running a set of aftermarket bearings like ACLs is equivalent to running the same middle of the road bearing shell size on all journals.
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Turning a Honda crank? Why?
Ever have trouble finding one that didn't need it?
Regardless, you can turn a nitrided crank just fine, but you should re nitride it afterwards, we did this often when I worked for MB.
Once again you're incorrect.
::)
You don't turn a crank unless you are removing a significant amount of material, like more than .008", especially anything hardened. You won't be able to hold any sort of tolerance, not to mention you will just have to redo your setup on a crank grinder anyways so you might as well just grind it.
And no I am not incorrect Joseph, you need to keep in mind I actually do this kind of stuff, you only read about it. Parts can be, and have been for years, re nitrided, from automotive cams and cranks, to industrial cylinders, shafts and pistons.
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No you should stop being poor and go buy a new car with a warranty.
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Turning a Honda crank? Why?
Ever have trouble finding one that didn't need it?
Regardless, you can turn a nitrided crank just fine, but you should re nitride it afterwards, we did this often when I worked for MB.
Once again you're incorrect.
::)
You don't turn a crank unless you are removing a significant amount of material, like more than .008", especially anything hardened. You won't be able to hold any sort of tolerance, not to mention you will just have to redo your setup on a crank grinder anyways so you might as well just grind it.
And no I am not incorrect Joseph, you need to keep in mind I actually do this kind of stuff, you only read about it. Parts can be, and have been for years, re nitrided, from automotive cams and cranks, to industrial cylinders, shafts and pistons.
Seeing as how bearings are sold in undersized increments of 0.010" what's your point?
Mine was you don't have to re-harden the crankshaft afterwards.
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Yes they can.
Plenty of manufacturers make crankshafts that are not nitrided. They're turned all the time. Simply because the material is soft(er) doesn't mean it will not work. Take a look at bearing material. The material on the top layer is much, MUCH softer than the material hiding underneath the nitrided layer. The key is to get the right finish on the crankshaft.
HOWEVER... They shouldn't unless the plugs are removed from the cross drilled passageways. There, abrasive particles will hide until you go to the track the next city over, with a new setup, and are hoping to hit 11's. Then, they'll come out to play, and you'll be mad and break up with your girlfriend...
Holy crap. JD made me ponder for a second... With the softer material underneath, and the significant timing advance in most of these motors, will the force of the rod hammering on the crank wear it *unusually* faster if it WERE reground? I'm thinking of the rod journals, here... Mains would certainly be fine.
No, I've reconsidered my opinion. It's fine with the precautions above.
The human torch was denied a bank loan.
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before the journals would wear, the crank will twist and flex, like a big spring.
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before the journals would wear, the crank will twist and flex, like a big spring.
They had this problem in the old inline-8 cylinder motors. Crank is simply too long.