:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Engine Management => Topic started by: ratcityrex on March 23, 2010, 12:50:20 PM
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Quick rundown for my car
street tuned on crome free by me for now(untill i get it to the nw nig nog)
b18a1
81.50mm wiesco pistons -12cc 8.0ish:1
LS head
delta 272/260cams
oen hg
arp head studs
to4e 40trim .70ar exhaust
splog....bla..bla...bla
so im pulling 2° per lb of boost and i know thats way more than i need to . Im running 13.50° on my timing map at 9lbs. @ 7000 rpms. Now on my old stock d16a6 i was running 18.50° @ the same spot on the map with a tbird 60/48. So i know there is a shit load more power to be pulled out of this thing. What would be a good safe amount to pull? would 1° per lb be ok?
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I will post a copy of my basemape when i get home.
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yeah d-16s you should start out with 1*/1lb and then go from there but i dony know about b series
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yeah d-16s you should start out with 1*/1lb and then go from there but i dony know about b series
I believe it 1.25*/psi boost that is what I start at when I do a basemaps for a GSR turbo, and 2 LS/vtec turbos I've done recently. ;D
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You have your starting place. Now put it on the street and do a pull, check plugs, adjust timing, rinse repeat until you think you are close, and then hit the dyno to confirm.
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You have your starting place. Now put it on the street and do a pull, check plugs, adjust timing, rinse repeat until you think you are close, and then hit the dyno to confirm.
+ 1
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Is this ok for the vitara setups? Is it ok to just adjust the retard per lb once you get over a certain pressure? And when you do adjust timing, do you actually adjust in the cells or do you just adjust the degree per pound?
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You have your starting place. Now put it on the street and do a pull, check plugs, adjust timing, rinse repeat until you think you are close, and then hit the dyno to confirm.
Will do, Im gona have to do it in 3rd gear because 2nd blows the tires off and then im not really getting a correct reading then. It wont let me attach my bin, said some shit is full and contact...bla bla bla
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http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1555006 (http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=1555006)
Old as fuck, but still worth looking at. If HT is censored, just do a google search for "det cans"
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Is this ok for the vitara setups? Is it ok to just adjust the retard per lb once you get over a certain pressure? And when you do adjust timing, do you actually adjust in the cells or do you just adjust the degree per pound?
On my vitara build with the block decked 0.020" I ended up around 0.8*/psi boost before I had other problems. ;D
We will by the end of the month if that is still good. :yes:
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yeah d-16s you should start out with 1*/1lb and then go from there but i dony know about b series
I do 2 deg/psi for D16 and 1.5 deg/psi for B-series and then feed it back in on the dyno, and as I up the boost. That's pretty conservative for a B-series but on a D16 you end up adding some back in in the 6-12 psi range and then sometimes take timing out in the higher boost because the base recurve is so close that you don't know if it's minimum safe timing or not. These are eCtune numbers and take them with a grain of salt when using something else.
Ratcityrex, I've had great luck with LS timing that I know to be too conservative that still makes great power. They are really robust and friendly setups.
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Cool, thanks. I guess I will just leave it or maybe drop it to 1.5 instead of 2. Its not to big of a deal right now anyways. Due to the fact I cant get the tires to hook up now the way it is. I need to throw my 3 bar in and re-tune it, and then put my 14lb spring in my wg. And do some more tuning. And then get some tires... :evil:
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I'd definitely add more timing in. I didn't check the HT link, but I infer Rass is talking about det-cans. You should definitely check into making one until you get your dyno money right.
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I'd definitely add more timing in. I didn't check the HT link, but I infer Rass is talking about det-cans. You should definitely check into making one until you get your dyno money right.
think making a det can would be useful for me once i get my clutch situation sorted out? drag strip opens in less than amonth and i need to finish getting the car tuned but i dont' know if i have time to come give you another visit
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Det cans cost all of $20 to make and allow you to hear a good bit of combustion. It's really a no brainer whether to build one. The real question is if you want to build mechanical det cans or electronic det cans. I didn't like the electronic one I built with a bosch KS. The mechanical one I built with scraps from my garage was better.
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I'd definitely add more timing in. I didn't check the HT link, but I infer Rass is talking about det-cans. You should definitely check into making one until you get your dyno money right.
think making a det can would be useful for me once i get my clutch situation sorted out? drag strip opens in less than amonth and i need to finish getting the car tuned but i dont' know if i have time to come give you another visit
It won't hurt. Unless you still have the 18 psi wastegate... tear your attention in too many directions at once so you lose control of the car, and it's gonna hurt.
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I'd definitely add more timing in. I didn't check the HT link, but I infer Rass is talking about det-cans. You should definitely check into making one until you get your dyno money right.
think making a det can would be useful for me once i get my clutch situation sorted out? drag strip opens in less than amonth and i need to finish getting the car tuned but i dont' know if i have time to come give you another visit
It won't hurt. Unless you still have the 18 psi wastegate... tear your attention in too many directions at once so you lose control of the car, and it's gonna hurt.
what i wouldn't do for some dyno time with yours truley. gonna have to get creative with the wastegate acutator so i can swap 'em out