:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: Tim on March 24, 2010, 09:37:14 AM
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Who has experience with the egay kits similar to this style?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-91-92-93-Integra-Adjustable-Front-Camber-Kit-Red_W0QQitemZ290416774841QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item439e304eb9 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/90-91-92-93-Integra-Adjustable-Front-Camber-Kit-Red_W0QQitemZ290416774841QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item439e304eb9)
I'm about to tear my car all apart to replace all the dangerous shit like bad ball joints and replace the missing rubber bushings with poly ones. I was checking it and making a list when I found out I have one of these camber kits up front. From what little I know about the previous owner i'm sure it was one of the cheapest ebay kits available to go along with the altezzas, projectors, and z3 fenders I already had to pull off.
Anyone have any experience with these? I already found that one side wasn't even bolted tight to the body and could be rocked slightly but I'm sure that could be tightened. I just want to know if they're good to have and last, or if they're garbage and I should chuck em and throw some stockers on.
Also for ball joints anyone heard of Mevotech or Auto Extra? They're the only suppliers I can find that have the front upper for my teg, but I don't want to replace it with junk.
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from understanding those are repackaged crash bolt camber kits.
I use the whole upper control arm with ball joint as a kit instead.
like these:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/rhino-CAMBER-KIT-92-95-HONDA-CIVIC-SUPER-DEAL-BUY_W0QQitemZ200451802961QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2eabdbc751 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/rhino-CAMBER-KIT-92-95-HONDA-CIVIC-SUPER-DEAL-BUY_W0QQitemZ200451802961QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories?hash=item2eabdbc751)
I have a set on HB for 2yrs. and they have been through few auto-x events, long windy drives, and an a couple of curb slapper w/o incident. ;D
And that is with nice warmed up Falken Azenis gripping on nice clean asphalt. :yes:
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Forgot to add I assume I don't need a camber kit anymore? The kid had the car dropped to the ground with coilovers on 17 rims and the first thing I did was crank it up to a respectable height probably close to stock.
I don't know if the kit I posted is the one I have, just an example of the style that's on the car.
Trying to figure out if I leave them or pull em off for a stock mount.
Thanks
Edit: re-read what you said and it makes more sense. What kind of ball joints are in those? I've heard bad things about the ball joints in the whole arm like that not lasting long, but a cheap replacement like I'm looking at may not be any better. Any idea if they are just a stock replacement for a different car and the arm is designed around it?
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i really think you need to get a decent priced strut/spring combo to replace whats there that wont drop your ship to the ground and not have to worry about camber... car will handle amazingly anyways with new bushings and everything anyway, you are only going to have headaches being lowered more than an inch where you drive.
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Those pivots suck. They're good for wallowing out and rattling, while scrubbing your tires as an added bonus.
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cdm suspension stuff just scares me.
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I just put the set that 92CXyD posted on my car. The Rhino kit. I think a big problem for most with the ball joints, is that they dont grease the ball joints, or notice that the ball joints are dry... I greased mine, and replaced the boots with energy suspension boots.
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I'm gonna be going with Megan racing up front I like how they made them out of tube steel not stamped and use 4 big ass bolts instead of small Allen head bolts so they won't slip. I figure those+ es bushings should be all set for a good while
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You ever use ES bushings? I had shit luck with them on my teg. They tended to deform and not spring back. I guess it could have been the particular pivot, but they aren't really a long lasting part. Even the shifter linkage bushing lost shape in less than a year. Their boots are great though.
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my shift kit and rear LCA are good so far for me, maybe you were to low? idk I usualy check all of it once a year so w.e
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Can't really say. i was stock height too. I was trying to replace all the bad bushings. I replaced EVERY bushing front and back, so I was a little pissed when they started failing so fast. May have been my usual crap luck though. They wouldn't be in business if everything they made was junk.
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I'm gonna be going with Megan racing up front I like how they made them out of tube steel not stamped and use 4 big ass bolts instead of small Allen head bolts so they won't slip. I figure those+ es bushings should be all set for a good while
Never saw those untill now. I like em. Too bad no one makes shit for EFs/EDs.
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Those pivots suck. They're good for wallowing out and rattling, while scrubbing your tires as an added bonus.
cdm suspension stuff just scares me.
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cdm suspension stuff just scares me.
+1, just by the cheap stuff you can off of rockauto. Even the cheap rockauto stuff is better then most parts store stuff.
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The only reason I bought the Rhinos was because they have been around for years and offer a 1 year warranty.
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cdm suspension stuff just scares me.
+1, just by the cheap stuff you can off of rockauto. Even the cheap rockauto stuff is better then most parts store stuff.
my gut feelings exactly hence the thread
already have someone lined up to hook me up with the stock mounts, just need to readjust thecoilovers to make sure i'm stock height.
Still not 100% sold on the rock auto ball joints but they have a 5 year warranty maybe I'll give em a shot and inspect them often as I have access to 2 lifts now. They're still probably chinese junk but we'll see. Moog only makes an 'adjustable' ball joint for the 90-93 tegs but that's who I was looking for originally.
You ever use ES bushings? I had shit luck with them on my teg. They tended to deform and not spring back. I guess it could have been the particular pivot, but they aren't really a long lasting part. Even the shifter linkage bushing lost shape in less than a year. Their boots are great though.
Fuck not good to hear. Oh well I'll try it out I've had the full prothane kit sitting in storage for a couple years now, its money already spent so it'll just be some wasted labor.
thanks guys, i'm getting rid of em you guys confirmed my suspicions that they're junk and will end up being a headache
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I have skank 2's on my SiR and you need to take the powdercoating offof them or else they just don't stay put.
I have heard great things about these
http://www.hardrace.com/products.asp?strClass1=12 (http://www.hardrace.com/products.asp?strClass1=12)
no little wuss ass Allen bolts, nice 1/4 in. bolts.
$150 .
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cdm suspension stuff just scares me.
+1, just by the cheap stuff you can off of rockauto. Even the cheap rockauto stuff is better then most parts store stuff.
my gut feelings exactly hence the thread
already have someone lined up to hook me up with the stock mounts, just need to readjust thecoilovers to make sure i'm stock height.
Still not 100% sold on the rock auto ball joints but they have a 5 year warranty maybe I'll give em a shot and inspect them often as I have access to 2 lifts now. They're still probably chinese junk but we'll see. Moog only makes an 'adjustable' ball joint for the 90-93 tegs but that's who I was looking for originally.
You ever use ES bushings? I had shit luck with them on my teg. They tended to deform and not spring back. I guess it could have been the particular pivot, but they aren't really a long lasting part. Even the shifter linkage bushing lost shape in less than a year. Their boots are great though.
Fuck not good to hear. Oh well I'll try it out I've had the full prothane kit sitting in storage for a couple years now, its money already spent so it'll just be some wasted labor.
thanks guys, i'm getting rid of em you guys confirmed my suspicions that they're junk and will end up being a headache
Im running the cheapest rockauto sells. They where better then the Napa ones I tried, autozone, or pepboys. They where also a lot less. Few drive their cars as hard as I do, reason the other part store ones died so fast :?:
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I'm curious on this as well... I'm not really digging how cheap those look but I guess there aren't many options for an EF...
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Unless you are slammed to the fucking ground or have a huge cross camber issue, you don't need camber kits.
I run somewhat low(not tucking tire), and have about -2.0 degrees up front. The rear has some cross camber for some reason, so I intend to get rear arms for it to dial in more negative camber on one side.
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Right now my car looks like a 4x4. I can literally fit my 4 fingers between the tire and wheel well. I figure once I get some 15x7s and a 50-55 profile tire, should only need to lower it 1-1.5" to look correct... That's a year away though.
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I got those same ones but theyre actually named brand ingals (sp?). I trust them but id rather go with rhino. The camber kits in the op (or ingals in my case) push the control arm to close to the frame. I had to shave the upper arm and frame by an 1/8" so it would clear.
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The thing about those kits where the ball joint moves, it changes your suspension geometry. Usually in a negative way. Lengthening the UCA leads to less camber gain when you corner.
The other kit, adjustable pivot aka "ingals" kit, moves the whole arm out so you retain much more of a stock geometry. But as stated, if you have more than "2 fingers" between fender and tire you won't need one. Inner tire wear is 98% from bad toe angles. Honda specs zero front toe for the EF, and probably the other civics too.
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Yeah..buy the ones that extend the actual arm out. I've had an ingalls style(no name brand) kit on my car for the last 15k miles and no issues. I even bought it used so who knows how old it is.