:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: jay on April 04, 2010, 12:59:59 PM
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could i use these relays to install kill switches into a car?
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secret of mine. i use the cigarette lighter for a push button starter.
also, a few other secrets.. no wires going to my ignition cylinder.
all alarm automation. ignition, acc, starter. mah shit is supa gay dee emm yo
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secret of mine. i use the cigarette lighter for a push button starter.
also, a few other secrets.. no wires going to my ignition cylinder.
all alarm automation. ignition, acc, starter. mah shit is supa gay dee emm yo
im thinking kill switching a couple ground wires and maybe fuel injector wires
these relays should be able to be powered with simple 9v batteries right?
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So long as it's enough to power the electromagnent to close the circuit, it will work. And it's a simple relay, key word: SIMPLE
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i use standard spdt 12v relays. i have tons of them only because i do alarms all day.
what are you going to be doing with 9v batteries? killing the glowplug on an RC car?
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i use standard spdt 12v relays. i have tons of them only because i do alarms all day.
what are you going to be doing with 9v batteries? killing the glowplug on an RC car?
lol im trying to piece together 5 kill switch kits for local kids
its amazing how many cars have been stolen latley...
can you run a 9v battery to one of your relays and see if it clicks
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9V should power it. I've used 3 9V batteries in series to activate a 24v irrigation solenoid on an compressed air cannon I made. Those 3 9 volts lasted a good year, so there wasn't alot of draw on them.
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9V should power it. I've used 3 9V batteries in series to activate a 24v irrigation solenoid on an compressed air cannon I made. Those 3 9 volts lasted a good year, so there wasn't alot of draw on them.
Pics or it didn't happen.
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Quote from: jay on Today at 11:59:59 AM...
All I can see is a car starting itself on fire with some poor teen inside due to Jay's mad fabricator skills. :?:
I would not suggest relays like that as kill switches, unless they are "normally open" style. If you have to turn them on to kill the ignition, the battery will be dead enough to not start in a day. Hell, one 30amp relay was enough to kill my battery in 3 days when I was testing my e-cutout device. The key is a dual-coil latching relay, or "normally open" relays. Latching = power fed ONLY when changing it's possition (kill or unkill). Normally open = only needs power when you need to start the car (alternator takes car of the power draw).
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You are lucky it takes a long time to upload pics. I was going to flood your fag thread with pictures of your dead cousins that we killed.
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Quote from: jay on Today at 11:59:59 AM...
All I can see is a car starting itself on fire with some poor teen inside due to Jay's mad fabricator skills. :?:
I would not suggest relays like that as kill switches, unless they are "normally open" style. If you have to turn them on to kill the ignition, the battery will be dead enough to not start in a day. Hell, one 30amp relay was enough to kill my battery in 3 days when I was testing my e-cutout device. The key is a dual-coil latching relay, or "normally open" relays. Latching = power fed ONLY when changing it's possition (kill or unkill). Normally open = only needs power when you need to start the car (alternator takes car of the power draw).
yeah these are normally open... as in broken circuit as in you need power for them to close the switch and complete the circuit..
im good with electrical work.. and aside from wiring offroad lights like 4 years ago i never worked with relays...
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You are lucky it takes a long time to upload pics. I was going to flood your fag thread with pictures of your dead cousins that we killed.
i dont know who you think i am.. but
OK.
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yeah these are normally open... as in broken circuit as in you need power for them to close the switch and complete the circuit..
Just think of relays as push-switches you turn on with electricity. As long as it can handle the power, it will be fine.
FYI the stock Honda wiring diagram uses the clutch switch wire for the starter kill, and the main relay's signal ground won't need more than 1amp max. A main relay kill essentially kills the ecu, injectors, and fuel pump.
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Don't use 9v to power your relays. Use the hot side of the wire you are trying to interrupt with the relay for the signal + voltage, and put your remote switch between signal out and ground.
It will only draw a few extra milliamps from the line when the relay is on.
You want normally open, so (car) batteries don't drain while the car is OFF.
Radioshack sells 30A auto relays for cheap.
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Don't use 9v to power your relays. Use the hot side of the wire you are trying to interrupt with the relay for the signal + voltage, and put your remote switch between signal out and ground.
It will only draw a few extra milliamps from the line when the relay is on.
You want normally open, so (car) batteries don't drain while the car is OFF.
Radioshack sells 30A auto relays for cheap.
sorry about being redundant.. but again..
normally open as in the relay is off right?
thats what the relay i posted is.. since it needs to be powered to be on...
if im putting a kill switch on fuel pump ground then id need a 9v to power the switch right?
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just put a switch in line of the fuel pump wires, you dont need a relay. ive had this on my teg for like 4+ years now.
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Don't use 9v to power your relays. Use the hot side of the wire you are trying to interrupt with the relay for the signal + voltage, and put your remote switch between signal out and ground.
It will only draw a few extra milliamps from the line when the relay is on.
You want normally open, so (car) batteries don't drain while the car is OFF.
Radioshack sells 30A auto relays for cheap.
sorry about being redundant.. but again..
normally open as in the relay is off right?
thats what the relay i posted is.. since it needs to be powered to be on...
if im putting a kill switch on fuel pump ground then id need a 9v to power the switch right?
open => open circuit = off. yes.
get a relay that needs 12V to power it.
Use the +12 power line going to the fuel pump to power the relay.
This is easier if you put the relay/killswitch in line with the +V to the pump, rather than the ground, that way you only need to cut the +V wire, and leave the ground intact.
Now that your relay is inline with the pump circuit, and has a power source, all you need to do is connect the remaining terminal to ground to complete the circuit. This can be any crappy connection anywhere on the car, because the relay does not use a lot of current, so a bit of resistance in the grounding is not a big deal. Run a wire from this last relay terminal to a remote rocker switch wherever, and then connect the other end of the switch to ground.
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just put a switch in line of the fuel pump wires, you dont need a relay. ive had this on my teg for like 4+ years now.
well im just piecing together a kit for people..
dont think they want to wire a switch directly
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Don't use 9v to power your relays. Use the hot side of the wire you are trying to interrupt with the relay for the signal + voltage, and put your remote switch between signal out and ground.
It will only draw a few extra milliamps from the line when the relay is on.
You want normally open, so (car) batteries don't drain while the car is OFF.
Radioshack sells 30A auto relays for cheap.
sorry about being redundant.. but again..
normally open as in the relay is off right?
thats what the relay i posted is.. since it needs to be powered to be on...
if im putting a kill switch on fuel pump ground then id need a 9v to power the switch right?
open => open circuit = off. yes.
get a relay that needs 12V to power it.
Use the +12 power line going to the fuel pump to power the relay.
This is easier if you put the relay/killswitch in line with the +V to the pump, rather than the ground, that way you only need to cut the +V wire, and leave the ground intact.
Now that your relay is inline with the pump circuit, and has a power source, all you need to do is connect the remaining terminal to ground to complete the circuit. This can be any crappy connection anywhere on the car, because the relay does not use a lot of current, so a bit of resistance in the grounding is not a big deal. Run a wire from this last relay terminal to a remote rocker switch wherever, and then connect the other end of the switch to ground.
thanks.
ill prolly reread this a bunch of times later on till i get it :p
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Im so tired of trolls.
Its so last year. Can we start something new?
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yeah we should. i should start another "im having a baby" thread ;)
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FYI fuel pump kills by using just the pump's power wires is a complete waste of time. Anyone with the balls to bust into your car and try to hotwire it will also have the brains to bring along a small gelcel 12v battery to hotwire the fuel pump also. A fuel pump kill will only stop some 8yr old theif when you've left your keys in the ignition and the doors unlocked.
If you use this on the main relay, it will also kill the injectors and ecu. You can't exactly hotwire an injector. Combine that with relocating the main relay between the cluster and steering support/framework, and it's 1000 times more effective than a retarded fuel pump kill. The best part is your "kit" can boast no wire cutting, splicing, or soldering of the OEM pump or main relay wires. The main relay connector in pre-02 Hondas use a small blade connector, so you just depin it and slip in your kit's blade connector.
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Anyone with the balls to bust into your car and try to hotwire it will also have the brains to bring along a small gelcel 12v battery to hotwire the fuel pump also.
Most people stealing civics aren't very smart...
And how would they get to the pump wires? Cut up the rear seat, or unbolt it from the trunk? then wire in a battery well enough so the car doesn't stall out 10 ft down the road? Sounds time consuming.
Also, why not just bring a 12V battery and power the ecu, bypass the main relay all together? ECU much easier to get to than fuel pump.
You have a good point, but a kill switch will def stop more than your local 8 yr old.
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And how would they get to the pump wires? Cut up the rear seat, or unbolt it from the trunk? then wire in a battery well enough so the car doesn't stall out 10 ft down the road? Sounds time consuming.
Also, why not just bring a 12V battery and power the ecu, bypass the main relay all together? ECU much easier to get to than fuel pump.
You have a good point, but a kill switch will def stop more than your local 8 yr old.
Get another guy, or some decent muscles, and yank it up from the front. Connect with 2 pre-made scotchtaps or spend 5 seconds cutting/stripping with a good wire stripper. Look around, it's been done before. They don't have to be smart, just experienced, or with a 'veteran'.
The main relay supplies power to each injector, the fuel pump, the o2 sensor, and 2 ecu wires. That's 4 wires in 3 spots they have to reconnect power to. Enough distance between them that they'd need at least two, if not three batteries. All from one switch or relay you added. In my car there is only one way to get to and bypass the main relay. Dash removal. :-X
One other thing I like to do is use a 2timer bin-switcher I made with one working crome map and one start/idle map on it. That kill relay flips it to the start/idle bin, which does what it sounds like. It has zero fuel and -6deg timing above 20" Hg and 1500rpm. :)
THey can re-wire my pump & injectors, but I have 4 tamper proof 1/4"-20 bolts holding my ecu/cover down, which also hides the added wires for the bin switcher wire.
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If you use this on the main relay, it will also kill the injectors and ecu. You can't exactly hotwire an injector. Combine that with relocating the main relay between the cluster and steering support/framework, and it's 1000 times more effective than a retarded fuel pump kill. The best part is your "kit" can boast no wire cutting, splicing, or soldering of the OEM pump or main relay wires. The main relay connector in pre-02 Hondas use a small blade connector, so you just depin it and slip in your kit's blade connector.
i love you...