:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: Jorsher on April 07, 2010, 06:58:33 PM
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UPDATE: so plastigaged the mains today and seems a little on the loose side of spec. Used the green plastigage, and torqued down to 45lb in two steps with a torque wrench I should probably replace as it's endured a bit of abuse. Anyway, all the mains came out to 0.0020" with the exception of the one closest to the crank pulley which came out to 0.0015" and is the one I tightened the most... So standard size bearing sound good?
Finished pulling apart the block today since I have to start work tomorrow :'( 6 month unemployed vacation is over.
First bit of unexperienced failure is I pulled up on the crank thinking I'd be able to pull all the pistons out with it. Well, I didn't pay attention to the mains being in the way of the pistons, so ended up with 4 pistons and their rings below the cylinder. I got two out by simply placing a flat chunk of metal against the rod and hitting it with a mallet. The other two the rings kept getting caught instead of going into the cylinder. Used a nice flathead screwdriver to compress the rings and worked the other two back in there.
Next up: is the fancy coating Wiseco puts on the piston skirts pointless, or did coolant in the oil cause it to wear prematurely? You can see where the very middle of the skirt looks like typical forged aluminum, and closer to the edges of the skirts you can see the dark coating.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi284.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fll5%2FJ0r5h3r%2Fe21ebd40.jpg&hash=a26567af97fc588f7b7f8717e776a65e410921d7)
Last thing: all the bearings appear to be shot. The little groove/notch/whatever that's in the bearings and the holes (I assume these are for oil?) has metal "dirt" in them, and the surfaces of the bearings certainly did not feel smooth. Some even had copper colored scoring, and due to their location I guess the oil hole edges were scraping it (bearings a few layers of metal?). My question is: I have a B18B block and B18C crank/rods, should I use B18C rod/crank bearings or B18B rod/crank bearings? They have different part numbers and I'm not sure if they're matched to the mains or the journals.
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Oh, and can anyone suggest a cheap source of bearings? I think I got my last ones from TunerToys (RIP). I saw a set of main bearings on ebay for $40ish, thrust washer for about $20, etc, seemed cheaper than I spent last time but I don't know.
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look at your bearing codes and buy the appropriate ones from the dealer. If you do it right they will last forever. Also, your piston-wall clearance was probably too tight...
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look at your bearing codes and buy the appropriate ones from the dealer. If you do it right they will last forever. Also, your piston-wall clearance was probably too tight...
Piston-wall clearance was 0.0040", which was even larger than suggested by Wiseco. I could wiggle the pistons in the cylinders.
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Thrust bearings are cheap enough from the dealer.
I always use OEM bearings. How else are you going to get all the right sizes? Sure you can probably throw a standard size set in there but your clearances won't be right 99% of the time.
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About to go pick up some plastiguage. I'm going with whoever has the cheapest bearings :noel:
Bearings matched to mains or journals? I assumed they were the same, but from what I could tell briefly skimming the ACL catalog they had different bearings for B18C than B16/B18A/B18B/B20B. Maybe is just the rod bearings that are different.
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Just because the coating loses color, doesn't mean it isn't still working.
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Just because the coating loses color, doesn't mean it isn't still working.
Cool, don't really care either way was just curious.
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Just because the coating loses color, doesn't mean it isn't still working.
If you can see copper you have a problem. If so much coating comes off that it clogs the fucken oil hole, guess what, you have a problem. Go to the dealer, get the right shit and do it once...err, twice in this case.
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I bought all my stuff off Ebay, Clevite mains and ACL rod bearings.
I have built a good 20-30 motors with ACL/Clevite standard bearings and have not had a single problem with clearance issues.
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Just because the coating loses color, doesn't mean it isn't still working.
If you can see copper you have a problem. If so much coating comes off that it clogs the fucken oil hole, guess what, you have a problem. Go to the dealer, get the right shit and do it once...err, twice in this case.
Well, he was referring to the coating on the pistons.
There's no arguing the bearings are bad :P I didn't do it the first time, the shop did, it was probably the coolant that poured into the oil passage.
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I bought all my stuff off Ebay, Clevite mains and ACL rod bearings.
I have built a good 20-30 motors with ACL/Clevite standard bearings and have not had a single problem with clearance issues.
sure most of the time these work but every so often you get a yellow or a pink bearing
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Built mine with ACL bearings and it sounds like a diesel. Although that may be the .040 P2W clearance also. Either way it is still holding up to all my abuse just fine.
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I'll go ahead and measure for clearance just in case, since it'll only cost a few bucks and a little time, but used standard ones in the last build and it seemed fine. Crank is still in good shape at least.
Thanks
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Built mine with ACL bearings and it sounds like a diesel. Although that may be the .040 P2W clearance also. Either way it is still holding up to all my abuse just fine.
It's P2W that makes them clackity clack.
I bought all my stuff off Ebay, Clevite mains and ACL rod bearings.
I have built a good 20-30 motors with ACL/Clevite standard bearings and have not had a single problem with clearance issues.
sure most of the time these work but every so often you get a yellow or a pink bearing
Yeah well I don't care if they last till 200k like the OEM does.
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Main closest to crank pulley = 0.0015"
All the others = 0.0020"
Honda spec is 0.0011" - 0.0021"
I used a shitty torque wrench and tightened the crank pulley main the most so may be the reason the others were a little looser.
Standard size bearings sound good?
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I would use them since they are at .0020
I think I ran all mine right around there. I belive that the vtec specs for the mains are even looser, like .0025
If you think about it, heat makes stuff grow, and If you r gona boost it thats added heat.
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.002" on the mains is perfectly acceptable.