:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: onlyflash944 on April 17, 2010, 12:04:57 PM
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So my latest project is a UCAR to race at the local circle track. Picked this gem up for 500 bucks and I'm not sure what is up with it. Fully charged battery, key on, no fuel pump prime that i can hear. While cranking there is no spark to any cyls. The theft system light stays on the entire time I'm cranking the engine. Then stays on with the key in the run position. I have tried the 10 min reset several times, and the theft system light never goes out after the wait. it just stays on. I tried letting it sit for half an hour last night and the light still never went out.
Does anyone know more about this pos GM that can point me in the right direction?
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Sounds like another Crapalier fail to me. :?: ;D
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Leave the ignition on for 15mins. Make sure to put a jumper on it. Do that and report back!
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Leave the ignition on for 15mins. Make sure to put a jumper on it. Do that and report back!
i've tried to start it, then let it sit with the key in the run position for half a hour. the theft system light still doesn't go off. what do yo mean a jumper?
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Had this shit happen to us before in the shop on a 99 Pontiac Sunfire. Same exact shit. Turns out it had a bad cluster. The theftlock shit is built into the cluster itself and was losing it's memory from the key.
Sometimes it can be the key and tumbler resistor too.
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got the theft system light to go out after the 10 min wait using the resistor trick. as soon as you turn the key off, same shit, theft system light on. also, after crankning the odometer still displays "error". got some more reading to do i guess
horray electronics
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the ignition cylinder has the resistor built in.
i would check all the fuses just incase. sometimes ecu will need to get reflashed
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GM.... fuck yeah!!
Those are next on my "to chip - the old fashioned way" list, working on Fords now.
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i would check all the fuses just incase. sometimes ecu will need to get reflashed
so i've read. hoping that isn't the case. all the fuses look good, but i'm going to try pulling the one for the "CTLSR"
http://www.carsforums.com/gm/4483-z24-odometer-displays-error.html (http://www.carsforums.com/gm/4483-z24-odometer-displays-error.html)
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the ignition cylinder has the resistor built in.
exactly. and its teh ignition cylinder that goes bad all the time. so add the resistor outside the cyl, and it is a 'fix'
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GM.... fuck yeah!!
Those are next on my "to chip - the old fashioned way" list, working on Fords now.
why don't you go be useful in my other electrical bull shit wiring car won't run thread now that you are actually back from your hiatus