:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: ratcityrex on April 26, 2010, 08:45:59 PM
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Well I have 72# injectors and was wondering If I need or should rewire my 255? At what power level is it needed to rewire the pump?
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there is no reson not to do it, y wait till its to late? just do it noe and be done with it
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I "heard" stock lines on a ef are smaller than the newer civics therefore they tap out a little over 500ish with 1k cc injectors, so you may be a little less than that.
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stock eg lines and walbromade 637 ib the ross monster with 1000s. maxxxxed
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Well fuck me, im only going for 350whp, nooooo wooorrrryyyyzzzz then!
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350whp in a crx will be fucking crazy
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yea you'll be good. I made a lil over 600whp with a single intake 255.
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yep my crx made 345whp with a 255 and 680's. it wasnt even close to running out of fuel.
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Well I have 72# injectors and was wondering If I need or should rewire my 255? At what power level is it needed to rewire the pump?
I've seen them struggle at the 300-325whp levell. A STOCK fuel pump correctly wired will do that. Also, if you go back and rewire it AFTER tuning then the car just runs stupid rich. Collosal waste of time and effort because you flail around blindly and haven't a clue, and people do it all the time even after they are told.
I "heard" stock lines on a ef are smaller than the newer civics therefore they tap out a little over 500ish with 1k cc injectors, so you may be a little less than that.
You heard from faggots who've never seen a real EF outside of a car show or some JDM magazine pictures, much less know how to change their own oil. My 636 whp with wheelpsin past 7500 rpms stock fuel line and rail record was on an 89 HF. Fuck your mother.
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i have done 500whp on a walbro 255 with stock lines and wiring
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I was just wondering If I need to do this, because Im getting it street tuned this weekend. And I need to know b4 saturday, when I go to tune it. No point in doing it after I get it street tuned to do it all over again. Just wondering it is needed to make 350ish whp.
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you will be fine. on that same 500whp setup, i drove it daily with 65lb injectors at 300whp for a year or so with no problems.
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He very much will not be fine on rotted ass ED wiring and twenty year old rusted up spot weld chassis ground path..
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i didnt pay much attention to the car, just based it on my own experiences. im also in FL where hondas rarely rust
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I'd rewire. Just because I don't trust old wiring.
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rewire it. one less thing to worry about, and you're improving the efficiency of your car on the cheaps
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ok, ok, ok. I will rewire it. But do you guys thing that a 30amp relay would be ok or do i need a 40amp?
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i use 30amp relays.
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30A will work. :yes:
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ok, so who has a quick writeup online. When I search google all I get is honda-tech typical BS.
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nevermind, found a writeup.
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should have linked anyway...
http://www.raktron.com/fuel/rewire1.html (http://www.raktron.com/fuel/rewire1.html) <~ DSM shit, but you get the idea...
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I agree. Just do it. I bought my 30A relay from Radio Shack for like 7 bucks. I actually just did mine like 3 days ago.
The yellow black wire is your power. Cut that, run the side from the main relay to the 86 post on the new relay. Then run the 85 post to a good engine or battery ground. Then run your 30A to the battery with a fuse inline. And lastly run the 87 to the fuel pump side of the yellow/black. Walmart didnt have 10 gauge wiring, so I used 12.
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should have linked anyway...
http://www.raktron.com/fuel/rewire1.html (http://www.raktron.com/fuel/rewire1.html) <~ DSM shit, but you get the idea...
Like all DSMtard tech, it's woefully stupid. The #1 problem with the stock wiring, the source of 90% of the resistance, is from using the unibody as a ground path instead of running a dedicated ground to the block. That writeup grounds to the unibody adjacent to the fuel pump access plate, fail.
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should have linked anyway...
http://www.raktron.com/fuel/rewire1.html (http://www.raktron.com/fuel/rewire1.html) <~ DSM shit, but you get the idea...
Like all DSMtard tech, it's woefully stupid. The #1 problem with the stock wiring, the source of 90% of the resistance, is from using the unibody as a ground path instead of running a dedicated ground to the block. That writeup grounds to the unibody adjacent to the fuel pump access plate, fail.
Excuse my stupidity for a moment, but I don't understand using the block as a ground. Aren't the grounds from the engine to chassis to ground the engine of electrical currents? If so, what is the point of grounding other shit to it? I'm confewzed.
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Block is ground, chassis is just like a big odd shaped steel wire.
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Well I have 72# injectors and was wondering If I need or should rewire my 255? At what power level is it needed to rewire the pump?
I've seen them struggle at the 300-325whp levell. A STOCK fuel pump correctly wired will do that. Also, if you go back and rewire it AFTER tuning then the car just runs stupid rich. Collosal waste of time and effort because you flail around blindly and haven't a clue, and people do it all the time even after they are told.
I "heard" stock lines on a ef are smaller than the newer civics therefore they tap out a little over 500ish with 1k cc injectors, so you may be a little less than that.
You heard from faggots who've never seen a real EF outside of a car show or some JDM magazine pictures, much less know how to change their own oil. My 636 whp with wheelpsin past 7500 rpms stock fuel line and rail record was on an 89 HF. Fuck your mother.
my post was concerning stock wiring, I don't give a shit what you made, and I have no personal experience hence why I gave the gospel. If you want my mother's # pm me, she lives close to you.
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Not quite. Block is ground (alternator casing, really, but it's bolted to the block), and the chassis is a giant RF antenna you ground to prevent it from fucking with everything. The OEM also uses it as a ground point because they only care about shaving pennies, a limited duration warranty, and have no concern about performance.