:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: El Beefo on April 02, 2009, 08:35:49 PM
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K so I picked up a brand new CDM RS bov for $10 off of craigslist. Nice score. :noel: Gonna be awhile before I get my Blitz in so gonna rock this for awhile. My only gripe about the RS is the ricey ass anodized blue trumpet. Sand paper wont work cause of all the small holes and shit and paint thinner didnt work. Dont wanna spend the money to have it media blasted if theres a cheaper way... Any Ideas?
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wal mart has spray paint for 88 cents.
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jasco!
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:yes: yea, just spray-paint it. it will work........
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Draino, I use the gel kind to strip rc shit, just be carefull its some evil shit. put it in a container it cant eat throuh
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Spray oven cleaner works good too!
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Draino, I use the gel kind to strip rc shit, just be carefull its some evil shit. put it in a container it cant eat throuh
Spray oven cleaner works good too!
seriously? damn when I was trying to strip my lugs, not even paint stripper would do it, but these cheaper household shits will? fuck me.
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Just tried aircraft remover.... no worky, bummer
wal mart has spray paint for 88 cents.
Got spray paint... just didnt wanna go that route. Chrome CDM BOV is an eye sore as is w/ out painting it. Wanted the raw aluminuim look.... Not spray paint aluminium look. :-\
Draino, I use the gel kind to strip rc shit, just be carefull its some evil shit. put it in a container it cant eat throuh
interesting.... ;)
Spray oven cleaner works good too!
Might work... I remember trying to clean my old EF engine bay w/ engine cleaner 10 years ago and my valve cover and intake mani were eaten up to fuck.
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http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html (http://www.focuser.com/atm/anodize/anodize.html)
You can strip off the existing anodized layer from any anodized part by placing the part in a caustic solution for an hour or so. Just mix a few tablespoons of lye and water in a plastic container. Wear eye protection and rubber gloves for this procedure!! Place the part in the solution and monitor its progress.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.focuser.com%2Fstrip1.jpg&hash=85682518697abba7c9bacc5f32cf12bfea987331)
The Lye will dissolve the old anodized layer, about .001" thick. It takes a while for it to start breaking through the layer. It's a little slow at first. The first ten minutes or so not much action will be seen. Bubbles and smut will rise up as an indicator of its progress.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.focuser.com%2Fstrip2.jpg&hash=8869de4d86f2ad37ee6c81d0f8ff70105537d062)
It is a good idea to help the process along by wiping the smut off the part to allow the acid to get to fresh aluminum. Just wipe off the part with a rag every 5-10 minutes until the old layer is completely gone (wear gloves and goggles). Only bare aluminum should be seen when the part is finished. If the aluminum part turns a dark color then it needs to be desmutted due to its alloy type. For example, 2024 aluminum alloy has 5% copper in it. The lye eats the aluminum off the surface but leaves the copper behind which in turn tarnishes to a dark color. Desmut is the opposite of a caustic solution such as lye. Desmut (normally ferric acid based) eats the non aluminum metals off the surface presenting a purer aluminum surface to be anodized. I include desmut in the advanced anodizing kit for folks doing unknown or non typical 6000 series alloys. It could come in handy and does not hurt to use it on all aluminum alloys.
Ok, back to stripping our part--
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.focuser.com%2Fstrip3.jpg&hash=745bb08b2a1ae33191255778a3a8568716af61ac)
When the part is completely uniform (no remaining spots), rinse it off and buff it back to a shine. Stripping aluminum this way will create a matte finish. polishing it back to it's original surface is up to you. At this point, the part can be re-anodized and dyed any color just like a freshly machined part. Note: if the aluminum part has other metal or steel parts pressed into it, do not re-anodize the part. Metals other than aluminum will dissolve away during the anodizing process.
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Eh i'd imagine anything caustic would put pits and holes in the piece. I'd recommend media blasting, it's not expensive if you have an air compressor :P
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OVEN CLEANER FOR TEH FUKIN WINNNZZ!!1!!!!!!11!!!
Just happened to have some oven cleaner under the sink so I gave it a shot... 10 mins later and fukin A. worked like a charm!!! few rough spots but cleaned em up w/ some fine sand paper. WIN
Ive noticed alot of times colored/anodized CDM parts are cheaper only cause everyone wants black or silver. This trick might actually save me alot of change in the future ;)
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Nice I have a couple chassis braces I like to get rid of the anodizing.
I'm going to try this thanks guys. ;D
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Itd probly be a good idea to nutralize it, wash it with bakeing soda and water
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If its caustic then vinegar, or another acid will neutralize it.
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a dremel?
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fuk where was this thread 3 nights ago when BDVT gave me a anodized spark plug cover ended up rattle canning came out o.k. though