:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: TTC on May 09, 2010, 08:30:05 AM
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The flange on my log mani always warps a bit and the stock gaskets arent thick enough. The fucking things keep blowing out, and ive had leaks for the last 5 years. WTF else can I use , really thick copper? I'm at ends with this fucking thing.
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The flange on my log mani always warps a bit and the stock gaskets arent thick enough. The fucking things keep blowing out, and ive had leaks for the last 5 years. WTF else can I use , really thick copper? I'm at ends with this fucking thing.
Double up on the gaskets?
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Hit the flange with a belt sander?
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Hit the flange with a belt sander?
Done that twice. If I didnt know any better id say the head was warped.
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Hit the flange with a belt sander?
Done that twice. If I didnt know any better id say the head was warped.
Does the Flange have oversized holes for the mount studs from the head to go through?
If they do not just open those holes up could help with expansion of flange.
Or maybe notching the areas of the flange between the ports also to help with expansion.
I seriously doubt the head warpage. :-\
Post a pict of the flange in question. ;D
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slap jb weld on the head and jb weld on the manifold, Tighten that shit down till it oozes out the sides.
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It won't work, JB-weld can't handle the heat. It will leak again.
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get it planned? or cut the reliefs oh the flange from the bolt hole?
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Solid advice in this thread. Expansion holes with a large enough washer to not catch and fully allow for the movement. And double or even triple the stock copper gasket. Give some medium between the mani and the head.
Sadly this is not a case for JB
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Ask buk to weld the manifold to the head.
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Silicon gasket maker of what ever they call it. The red one can handle exhaust gas temp. just put some between flange and manifold and tighten that fucker down. used that to seal my oil pan once and had to use a fucking crow bar to pry it loose when i was removing it.
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copper rtv works pretty well. see if mr gasket (accel) makes a copper gasket for your motor. they make then for hondas and work amazing.
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Solid advice in this thread. Expansion holes with a large enough washer to not catch and fully allow for the movement. And double or even triple the stock copper gasket. Give some medium between the mani and the head.
Sadly this is not a case for JB
Keely, so you gusy mean elongate the holes? so the flange can expand without binding on the studs? Why teh washer? The stock gasket is a fibre thing with metal orings. I may try two of them.
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do you re torque your manifold after your first start up and heat up?
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do you re torque your manifold after your first start up and heat up?
x2
also i just doubled up gaskets on my del sol and it worked fine.
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Have it sufaced and use high quality gaskets, not shit fiber gaskets. Oh and if that doesn't work throw it away
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I will, but im going to wait till i take it off again for new gaskets and a modification for ext gate. The threads are on there last legs in the head, so im going to stud it, and heli coil it.
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Have it sufaced and use high quality gaskets, not shit fiber gaskets. Oh and if that doesn't work throw it away
Only gaskets I can get are fibre.
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best advice yet.... cut the flange in-between runners and bolt up... retorque after warm up.
DONE
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Have it sufaced and use high quality gaskets, not shit fiber gaskets. Oh and if that doesn't work throw it away
Only gaskets I can get are fibre.
What you talking about only gasket you can get?
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best advice yet.... cut the flange in-between runners and bolt up... retorque after warm up.
DONE
That works for alot of honda guys since each runner has to bolt holes for the most part. With the 4age that isnt the case.
To give you an idea of the port layout.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.xs-power.co.uk%2Fimages%2FTOYOTA%2F4agemanit2504.jpg&hash=8cf00807e57ec8343bb2c836c95d37f77adb7d90)
I will prolly just use two gaskets and be done with it.
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Have it sufaced and use high quality gaskets, not shit fiber gaskets. Oh and if that doesn't work throw it away
Only gaskets I can get are fibre.
What you talking about only gasket you can get?
Oem is fibre, jobber is fibre ect. Unless I can get some cut up at a water jet place.
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OEM is metal. 3 layers I believe. OEM means bought from Honda/Acura, not Pepboys. As for your problem, get it decked properly and retorque your the nuts when they are still warm(not hot) after a week.
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OEM is metal. 3 layers I believe. OEM means bought from Honda/Acura, not Pepboys. As for your problem, get it decked properly and retorque your the nuts when they are still warm(not hot) after a week.
We are talking bout manifold not head.
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OEM is metal. 3 layers I believe. OEM means bought from Honda/Acura, not Pepboys. As for your problem, get it decked properly and retorque your the nuts when they are still warm(not hot) after a week.
We are talking bout manifold not head.
What I said still stands.
EDIT: Didn't realize this wasn't a Honda.
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Ya except TTC has a gay toyota not a gay Honduh.
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The stock gasket is a fibre thing with metal orings. I may try two of them.
I have one of those metal-fiber gaskets on my D16 atm sealed with Permatex copper rtv. It gets hella hot and sees tons of backpressure - 18psi on a .48ar/stg1 turbine on a 4-2-1 elephant manifold. Don't bother with lock washers - the heat will take away their temper, making them normal washers.
The other thing you can do is get some thick copper and do your own cutting. You take 2 chunks of decent wood, hardwood works the best. Drill your holes to line up, then bolt the copper in the middle. The wood holes act as a guide, and the clamping keeps the edges from getting ragged. Then use a tin-snips to do the outside shape if needed.
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That is a solid idea.Thx buddy.
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I don't see how you'r blowing these things apart. but have you looked into the formula atlantic engine's. There gaskets i would assume are the same shape but of better quality and well a gasket isn't going to be very expensive for this app. so maybe look into it.
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I dont know about fiber but 2 copper gaskets just makes it worse.
Mine warps almost every time I take it off, Its what I get for welding to a cast iron flange.
If you can't buy a copper gasket make one. Take your time and use copper RTV on both sides. I've seen that shit gooped on flanges and turbos like crazy, couldn't believe it held.
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Copper spray ftw
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EDITED...
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Enlarge the bolt holes and cut slots through the bolt holes to allow independent expansion of each tube, then get it surfaced one more time
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Throw it off a building, after wrapping it with bubble wrap, and used chewing gum.