:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Engine Management => Topic started by: ryan89crx on May 31, 2010, 09:48:58 PM
-
I'm in the market for some new injectors, but being the cheap-ass I am I don't want to spend a shit ton of money. I don't really need anything larger than 750cc so I was set on getting a set of Delphi injectors from diyautotune, until I started browsing Summit Racing;s catalog. Came across some FAST fuel injectors for pretty cheap, and am curious if they would be compatible with a Honda. They appear to be Siemens-Deka 3145 injectors, which IIRC work just fine with Hondas.
Anyone have any experience with these? Seem to be a pretty damn good deal at around $200
http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/FAST/Product-Line/FAST-Precision-Flow-Fuel-Injectors/?autoview=SKU&Ns=Price|Asc (http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/FAST/Product-Line/FAST-Precision-Flow-Fuel-Injectors/?autoview=SKU&Ns=Price|Asc)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FST-30657-1/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FST-30657-1/)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FST-30857-1/ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FST-30857-1/)
-
They look just like my 65lb seimens injectors. You just have to shave the plastic down a little at the top so it can fit into the fuel rail a little bit. You also need a spacer under the fuel rail cause they are taller than the normal Honda stuff. I got mine for $75 for all four so it was worth a few simple mods to me.
-
I got mine for $75 for all for so it was worth a few simple mods to me.
Smokin deal. Thanks for the input
-
We have used them on quite a few builds with no issues. We typically use the siemens injectors though.
-
I'd rather drill out the fuel rail to a 14mm inlet. You really need a lathe to modify the injector itself, correctly.
And, not that great a deal for that core. Try this on for size:
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=FI114992&eq=&Tp= (http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=FI114992&eq=&Tp=)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.racetronix.biz%2FmmWEBSTORE%2FImages%2F4992.jpg&hash=ac0c5e1322d9c80dd097ffb551f6ca6cf68bdafc)
High-Z, bitches. Still has the 14mm inlet, though.
-
So you are saying the 3145 injectors are not direct drop-in?
Those High-Z are pretty nice. Drilling the rail is all that's required to run them, other than removing my resistor box?
-
Just a thought, it didn't look like there was going to be enough meat left on a Z6 style fuel rail after drilling for 14 mm inlet injectors.
-
My friend who drilled out his rail had a B-series and IDK if it was aftermarket or not.
I know BDL made some 14mm outlet rails that nobody wanted that were selling for cheap a couple years back.
-
We did this on Tmathis's old setup, and had to weld the rail to add some beef to it, as it came out the rail on the first attempt.
-
Well, I'm not wanting to spend more money than I have to, so aftermarket rail or welding current rail is out of the question.
Looks like either the ones I posted originally or some Delphis
-
Or modding the linked injectors.
-
5 min with a file will make the injectors fit
-
5 min with a file will make the injectors fit
Which ones?
-
95% of injectors I've dealt with are plastic at the top and modifying them is entirely possible. SecksyScott's right, it doesn't take long.
The 80# GT500 injectors I linked to (available in the newer EV6/OBD2 clip as well as the LH-Jetronic, same price) are the same construction/core/model as the SRT-4 units I had. You can file those down if you need to, plenty of plastic up top.
-
I'd rather drill out the fuel rail to a 14mm inlet. You really need a lathe to modify the injector itself, correctly.
And, not that great a deal for that core. Try this on for size:
http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=FI114992&eq=&Tp= (http://www.racetronix.biz/itemdesc.asp?ic=FI114992&eq=&Tp=)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.racetronix.biz%2FmmWEBSTORE%2FImages%2F4992.jpg&hash=ac0c5e1322d9c80dd097ffb551f6ca6cf68bdafc)
High-Z, bitches. Still has the 14mm inlet, though.
Do these have good flow characteristics?
How do they compare to Delphi's for idle quality?
-
Corey has a set in his car.
I've dealt with the 500cc '04-05 SRT-4 flavors of that core, same exact picture (only with EV6 clip) down to the blue tip, except there's a Chrysler pentagram on the side of the injector. They were a good quality core that atomized fuel well enough to support lean burn. The 80# units may or may not do so - at some point a big injector sacrifices atomization for flow. This is a common turbo car theme, as atomization doesn't matter so much when you have a large amount of air mass raising hell in the chamber.
-
About some decap wrx injectors. http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=605.0 (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=605.0)
I happen to have a set, $110 and there yours :yes:
-
Witchhunter sold the decapped WRX sidefeeds for $170-something. I liked them.
-
My friend who drilled out his rail had a B-series and IDK if it was aftermarket or not.
I know BDL made some 14mm outlet rails that nobody wanted that were selling for cheap a couple years back.
I picked up a Mr Gasket rail for D series with 14 mm holes when I decided to use RDX injectors about a year ago. It is a decent enough piece, but the holes were undersized slightly, so I had to drill them out anyway.
They have just now made it onto a car. :?:
-
ive got75 lb fast injects in my new volvo. no complaints. 215 shipped. id buy them again
-
I had my injectors modded to fit my rail and it wasn't that hard. all of 5 min at the machinist and a few bucks. really the last thing i would screw with is drilling a rail. With how easy it was to cut down the injectors. imo
-
Stick them in a drill press or a drill in a vice and use a file. I've done that at work when I can't afford the time to send it to a machine shop. If you take your time it comes out perfect.
-
Bumping an old thread.
I picked up a set of used 60lb injectors like the one's JD linked. They were already modified to fit the rail and since I didn't know exactly what needed modded, I was extremely surprised to see how simple it was.
Anyways, they don't have a shoulder like OEM injectors that sits on the bottom seal and keeps the injector in the rail. I got mine installed and tightened up, but since they are so thin the will slide right into the bottom seal and even into the IM if pressure is put on them. Drove around and tuned for about an hour and all of a sudden the car started running like complete ass...then I smelled fuel BAD. Popped the hood and the #1 injector(closest to the FPR) had popped out of the rail and forced itself into the lower seal and partially into the IM. There isn't anything to hold the injector into the rail, other than the friction on the top seal, and that isn't enough. So to sum it up, how are you keeping the upper o-ring seated in the rail and preventing the injector from popping out?
-
I did nothing to the bottom side of mine. They sit inthe stock rubber seal just fine
-
Well they don't for me, even with brand new seals. I had raw fuel boiling sitting on top of my thermal gasket between the head and IM, and I don't care to pull a hotrex and burn this fucker to the ground.
-
Fuck it, nothing a few zip ties couldn't fix O0
-
That's the attitude.
-
Jb weld?
-
I had siemen deka 74lb injectorators on my z6 EF, they idled like stock on crome and fit okay. I had to add a spacer to the top (stockers use that rubber spacer), and had to decrease the O.D. on 8 stock o-rings to get it into a stock fuel rail. The top metal was just slightly smaller than the stock fuel rail hole. Let me tell you, with lube to get them in there, they were NEVER going to leak. They were just a bitch to get in & out of the rail. IIRC they were also designed to live at 95psi for extended periods.
-
Yea, mine are rated at 65lb @ 45psi and and something else higher @ 95psi. I figure if they rate them that high they are good for it