:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: snm95ls on June 09, 2010, 12:46:27 AM
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I haven't seen it done, and it looks to be next to impossible without cutting the fuck out of the front bumper.
Thinking of doing an air to water IC setup.
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i have check my build thread. i had p/s so i removed a/c for the time being untill i get a different p/s cooler but it's more then possible.
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More than possible for you, maybe.
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More than possible for you, maybe.
Intercoolers are sold in sizes smaller then Huge as fuck. but most don't understand that. Mine is simply a srt-4 core with new endtanks welded on.
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I don't believe that shit. Properly sizing boost parts for their intended purpose is crazy talk. Nobody does that.
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More than possible for you, maybe.
Intercoolers are sold in sizes smaller then Huge as fuck. but most don't understand that. Mine is simply a srt-4 core with new endtanks welded on.
I'm trying to determine how to keep condensor + radiator + IC from not equaling fucked in an ED chassis.
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More than possible for you, maybe.
Intercoolers are sold in sizes smaller then Huge as fuck. but most don't understand that. Mine is simply a srt-4 core with new endtanks welded on.
I'm trying to determine how to keep condensor + radiator + IC from not equaling fucked in an ED chassis.
any srt-4 fmic, johnny racecar 6" or similer sized core will fit easy. any tube over 2" or 2.25" piping will not fit behind the bumper unless you run backdoor.
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How thick are the SRT intercooler cores?
I could probably stick a 1.5" or 2" thick core up front and have enough room, but I don't see hoy you could frun the hotside piping with AC.
I am only planning on 240-270 WHP at most.
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Fender well sidemount(s)?
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FMIC with inlet/outlet on the same side? Run one backdoor and one through the factory air intake hole?
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I wonder if you could use eg rad/condenser with a traction bar to gain some intercooler room?
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How thick are the SRT intercooler cores?
I could probably stick a 1.5" or 2" thick core up front and have enough room, but I don't see hoy you could frun the hotside piping with AC.
I am only planning on 240-270 WHP at most.
It really depends on which bumper you have. The 88-89 style is not going to happen for 99% of people. It would take me some time to try and figure something out and it would not be ideal for almost everyone (sub 300whp MAX, ie: thin core).
The 90-91 bumper ( i have this one) is easier by 10 fold. the srt is about 2.5" thick and is less dense internallly then a similer sized garrett, precision, etc... So keep that in mind when you see tube and fin style cores. they can't support as much hp out the box/alone you could say. but nothing maybe some meth or something could help.
here is my modded srt4 intercooler. It has 2" outlets on there.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi71.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi123%2Fmattgroshong%2FD16a6enginepics031.jpg&hash=2290102246f3cb25e5866a03a882d546ff8f1b20)
Here is the intercooler mounted with the 1.75" hot side piping tucked under the washer res.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi71.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fi123%2Fmattgroshong%2F4doorchargepiping006.jpg&hash=c7f4c27a73e8b4f5e6af14a26a0631739a62323f)
I have mounted my full a/c system minus the condenser( this i new wouldn't fit without a aftermarket p/s cooler, if theres no p/s it could have stayed) and it all fits. You just need to be creative with routing the charge piping. These aren't eg/ek/dc's the normal stuff goes out the window.
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Heh. The hotside is all I was worried about to be honest, and it looks like it is totally doable.
Maybe I can mod this Starion IC that I originally bought for this car.
Thanks for the pics man. That helps a ton.
EDIT: I see you this is of your sedan. If I recvall correctly, they have a little extra room up front.
I am still thinking air to water, but air to air would be nice for simplicity.
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I was ablt to stuff a JRC 6" fmic in the front of my sedan with AC but PS removed. I can't see a hatch having an inch or greater difference, but 1" or under would be fine. The JRC core was 2.75" max thickness, which included the endtank thickness. It came exactly to where the lower paint line was for that grille/mesh section.
If you don't get the huge as fuck option, a 2"x8" would fit fine with some bumper support trimming. Also, the thinner the core the faster air will end up flowing through. It will help cool the engine bay too, which really helps with a ganster lean on the rad.
Someone just had a fairly high HP LS (>400 iirc) on hater-tech that used a 7" tall ebay core.
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I also don't want to hack the shit out of the bumper.
A thin core would serve me perfectly, but from what I have seen they are fucking expensive as hell from places like Bell, Precision, Spearco, etc.
I don't even think Precision or Spearco offer much under 2.5" tick cores.
May have to see about trying to find a suitable OEM core.
The only thing keeping me form going air to water is the cost. I don't mind the added complexity, as I don't really find it to be that complex.
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Griffin cores are inexpensive, or rework a Viggen or SRT-4 unit.
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Griffin cores are inexpensive, or rework a Viggen or SRT-4 unit.
Just saw this. Thanks for the heads up; I will have to check them out.