:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: Jorsher on June 12, 2010, 10:35:03 PM
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Srsly.
I've gone a couple weeks without issue in my swap so I guess I'm due for a problem.
I first noticed it a few days back. Around 4500rpm and up, the tach would jump back and forth between 4000 and 4500.
Next few days didn't do it (or I didn't catch it).
Today when I was driving, first gear, it was doing the same thing between 500-1500rpm, and when I was idling the tach would be pegged at 0rpm but it wouldn't jump if I gave it gas.
1 - Distributor gone wild?
2 - Save to drive with it acting like this?
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igniter or ALT, 4000-4500 and up jumping = my igniter was when.
Swapped it out with a beefier Accord unit, no more issues.
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igniter or ALT, 4000-4500 and up jumping = my igniter was when.
Swapped it out with a beefier Accord unit, no more issues.
Another fine post. :yes: :noel: 8) :D ;)
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Thanks I think I have one somewhere.
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D series obd1 units interchange also so if you have a spare one jack it. If not part store ones are cheap and work pretty well havent seen one fail in a short period of time yet.
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Replaced the ICM with a fresh vato zone one.
Still acts weird. Will be fine most of the time, but then goes retarded like this:
video-2010-06-13-19-24-20 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VENntg5pmFY#lq-lq2-hq-vhq)
Engine running but showing 0rpm? Usually it's at about 500-750. I haven't noticed the tach jumping but I'm usually watching the road.
Speedo seems to display the correct speed for the RPM though. Even at idle.
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Take out the cluster
Remove tach, should be a few screws on back of cluster
Reflow solder joints. I recently had to do this on an accord speedo.
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Take out the cluster
Remove tach, should be a few screws on back of cluster
Reflow solder joints. I recently had to do this on an accord speedo.
So, ICM was probably fine?
Guess it's a good excuse to buy a decent soldering iron.
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Yea this was for a jumpy speedo, not a tach. I don't see why it couldn't happen to a tach tho if you've already pursued other options. It's easy enough to do, give it a shot.
No need for a good soldering iron, a $10-15 unit will work.
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harbor freight has some decent ones for under $10 that work great if you keep them really clean, and don't let friends borrow them (related to quality of friends, not quality of the iron or my multimeter)
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People with aftermarket tachs that still have a stock tach in their dash piss me off
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People with aftermarket tachs that still have a stock tach in their dash piss me off
Where'd that come from? :P
Stock tach here. Wish I kept the JDMZ one for the 9000rpm tach, but CEL @ 8500rpm works just as well.
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In case you were considering Phate's fail option.
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People with aftermarket tachs that still have a stock tach in their dash piss me off
You trust what is i the dash???????
My D15B7 had a 7100 redline according to the OEM tach......600 rpm high