:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Fabrication => Topic started by: speedjunky01 on June 26, 2010, 07:07:03 PM
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hacked the cat off the stock y7 manifold with a saw's all, sold it to chrisM for some $$ and got some flanges from the man him self :noel:
chopped a piece of 2.5" pipe at 35* and it fits like a glove
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi5.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fy155%2Fspeedjunky01%2F61096eb4.jpg&hash=ef5e95d49a38e34ae7418ca3655ed79dab96fdac)
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gonna go make sure it fits on the other civic, then take it to get sand blasted and ill finish weld ir then just the DP
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awesome. How hard is it to weld on the stock mani? Looking to possibly try something similar with an F22B2 mani (cut it shorter until the "collector" is about the right size for a T3 flange, then have at it with the fluxcore)
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It actualy goes smoother then I expected but so far I've just tacked. The plan is to pre-heat it with a torch really well, then wrap it with some cloth to help it cool slow and prevent cracking
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It actualy goes smoother then I expected but so far I've just tacked. The plan is to pre-heat it with a torch really well, then wrap it with some cloth to help it cool slow and prevent cracking
bucket of sand > cloth
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It actualy goes smoother then I expected but so far I've just tacked. The plan is to pre-heat it with a torch really well, then wrap it with some cloth to help it cool slow and prevent cracking
bucket of sand > cloth
So lay a bead? Throw it in sand wait to cool then do another bead? Haha
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Thats what I would do Dan, because Ive welded many a time, and most castings are down with sand (what i learned at my dads company) because the sand disipates heat slower so you have a less chance of shocking the metal and having it crack by cooling to soon. Just like was stated above
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Use a conventional oven, if you can fit it in there. Set that motherfucker to 500* and let it pre-heat. Stick your mani in there, and cut it down about 50* every 30 minutes or so.
I do stress relieving for a living. What are the materials, I may be able to find a good protocol for you to adhere to.
Also, do you have any way to brinell test the weld and the haz?
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It's just cast iron being welded to mild steel
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I'll see if I can find a protocol, but I'm pretty sure I know this one, just don't want to give you misinformation.
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Cast iron to mild. Typically it is pre heat, post heat, and weld with a high nickel rod. If I am doing it with stick that is typically how I do it.
If I am doing it with Tig, I am lazy, and skip the pre and post heat, just make sure everything is clean and do really short stitch welds, and give it lots of time to cool in between.
A good high nickel rod, or a purpose built cast iron rod (aluminum bronze) really makes things a lot easier.
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Yeah I'm jet fluxing it lol.
I'm gonna clean it nice, heat it with a blow torch, weld slow, heat after, and chuck it into a box of sand
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That's not a 14b
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Yea, definitely pre heat it. I'm thinking I would stress it to about 1350*F. Get it to about 5-600 as quick as you like, then bring it up at around 200* an hour, hold at 1350 for about an hour, let it drop the same as the rise rate. After it gets down to about 400, your done.
This is IF you have means to get it that hot, and monitor it.
As far as the pre heat, just do a rosebud deal, with a torch.
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That's not a 14b
This
Looks t25ish.
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That's not a 14b
This
Looks t25ish.
beaten. That is a mitsu t25. I am late to this thread.
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yup, actuator mount gives it away.
i did that same thing on my first setup. t25 also
i did no preheating, just fluxcore slowly
heald for 2 years, then sold it off
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi128.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp161%2Fmajorahole%2F100_1818.jpg&hash=b087b59db317d884f0d606e3c6ecf6d7649390c4)
baller downpipe
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi128.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fp161%2Fmajorahole%2F100_1823.jpg&hash=078278100080b81b9112058e2cb37185a1af4c08)
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