:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Impact240sx on July 28, 2010, 08:32:15 PM
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Ok so i just bought a Legacy off my parents, my dad had it tore down as soon as he noticed the wobble, its not too horrible but its still wore it out a little bit. My crank snout looks very similar to this one
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi307.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fnn310%2Fchevybelly%2FIMG00392.jpg&hash=93fe2355df27ef908fce269ecd5b3c1cd8c21278)
Now my question is, what the fuck would you guys recommend to fix it? I was thinking of getting a new keyway, and just tack welding it in and trying to file it down so the pulley will fit back on there. Any suggestions?
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Keyway shouldn't have any effect on wobbling, that is more likely to be caused from the end not being straight (most likely) or the nose being bent (not likely).
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Keyway shouldn't have any effect on wobbling, that is more likely to be caused from the end not being straight (most likely) or the nose being bent (not likely).
Wobble would have an effect on the keyway though. Weld it up! Shit weld the pully to the crank too (tack)
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There isn't the slightest sense in worrying about the keyway until the root problem is solved.
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There isn't the slightest sense in worrying about the keyway until the root problem is solved.
Yeah you right. The pulley itself could be the culprit also...
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I think there's a spare EJ20 crank floating around the shop, which does no one in this thread any good.
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I think there's a spare EJ20 crank floating around the shop, which does no one in this thread any good.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi40.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe218%2F1320feet%2Fjdsap.jpg&hash=6c5133ebff4ac2f779e7590bc389afc82285101f)
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Sorry need to clarify, the pulley itself is fine. Just where it wore on the crank, it lets it go back and forth about a tooth right now.
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What does the nose of the crank look like.
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About what the picture i posted looks like, a little more wore tho, not much but a little.
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I can only see one picture, and there is a bolt in the way of seeing what the nose looks like.
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Are you saying it rotates a little back and forth on the keyway, or that the pulley is not parallel to the block face? If it's the keyway, look real good at the pulley and make sure it isn't mushroomed inside. Any smearing of either will result in rotational slop. Replace the pulley if it's it, or fill and cut the crank.....or just weld the fucker. O0
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Are you saying it rotates a little back and forth on the keyway, or that the pulley is not parallel to the block face? If it's the keyway, look real good at the pulley and make sure it isn't mushroomed inside. Any smearing of either will result in rotational slop. Replace the pulley if it's it, or fill and cut the crank.....or just weld the fucker. O0
Rotates a little on the keyway, back and forth (left to right) . Pully looks to be in good shape, no damage that i can tell .
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How did this happen? Was the pulley on there with no crank key, and it spun for a while? Because keyways don't just develop slop. The first stage of this wallows out the center of the pulley, the second part welds material to the snout so a new pulley won't fit over it.
I'd try a diff pulley before anything, but maybe I'm missing something in the picture.
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How did this happen? Was the pulley on there with no crank key, and it spun for a while? Because keyways don't just develop slop. The first stage of this wallows out the center of the pulley, the second part welds material to the snout so a new pulley won't fit over it.
I'd try a diff pulley before anything, but maybe I'm missing something in the picture.
Well from what i have read, this is a common 2.2 subaru problem. Improper torquing of the crank pulley bolt from the factory i believe.
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I was thinking something with the bolt...since my engine started running like shit when the cam bolt backed off a little and the key/keyway got chewed up.
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Rotates a little on the keyway, back and forth (left to right) . Pully looks to be in good shape, no damage that i can tell .
Stop being a pussy, WELD THE PULLY ON!
So if it's not wobbling like a bent wheel - just flops around between timing marks - welding the keyway back up should fix it. I've seen Honda guys weld the crank keyway when their key sheered. If the crank snout is bent off it's axis, it's junk.
When I went to find a vid, I found this. I was gonna say this is the wobble you'd normally replace the crank due to, however it seems even this wobble was due to a bad key:
Miata crankshaft pulley wobble (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P75feCy_MRM#normal)
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How did this happen? Was the pulley on there with no crank key, and it spun for a while? Because keyways don't just develop slop. The first stage of this wallows out the center of the pulley, the second part welds material to the snout so a new pulley won't fit over it.
I'd try a diff pulley before anything, but maybe I'm missing something in the picture.
Well from what i have read, this is a common 2.2 subaru problem. Improper torquing of the crank pulley bolt from the factory i believe.
Right. Your fifteen year old Legacy had it's crank pulley undertorqued for it's first five years of life, and now it's come come.
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now it's come come.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.bukkake-on-her-face.com%2Fa%2Fimages%2Fbukkake-girl-1-A091.jpg&hash=3afc04bf2ac04130050a3aac802ffcbf4d7f04ca)
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Usually, runout in this situation is caused from either under or over (usually over) torque on the screw which deforms the axial face (the nose). Without fixing this, you will solve nothing. Other possible causes are poor material selection (not likely) and radial surface inconsistancies (really only going to happen if you hit it with a hammer).
Everyone needs to stop thinking about the keyway. It has fuckall to do with the problem.
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Im going off of NASIOC. It happens alot from what i read. Im just gonna get a new key and weld the bitch on, then torque it down to factory specs.
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Im going off of NASIOC. It happens alot from what i read. Im just gonna get a new key and weld the bitch on, then torque it down to factory specs.
Its still going to wobble. In fact it may even wobble worse. The key only keeps the pulley for spinning on the crank, it has nothing to do with runout.
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I've got no clue what to do then, need to get this POS back on the road ASAP tho. I just looked at the pulley, no mushrooming or anything where it came loose, its fine. They key was messed up for the keyway, and its got a lil wear to it like the pic.
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proper fix is to start the engine with no pulley(have a fully charged battery) and weld fluxcore to the snout. when its built up then use your harbor freight bastard file and cut it back down to the proper size.
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proper fix is jb weld. don't ever take the pulley off again.
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I've got no clue what to do then, need to get this POS back on the road ASAP tho. I just looked at the pulley, no mushrooming or anything where it came loose, its fine. They key was messed up for the keyway, and its got a lil wear to it like the pic.
Keyway shouldn't have any effect on wobbling, that is more likely to be caused from the end not being straight (most likely) or the nose being bent (not likely).
What does the nose of the crank look like.
Usually, runout in this situation is caused from either under or over (usually over) torque on the screw which deforms the axial face (the nose). Without fixing this, you will solve nothing. Other possible causes are poor material selection (not likely) and radial surface inconsistancies (really only going to happen if you hit it with a hammer).
Everyone needs to stop thinking about the keyway. It has fuckall to do with the problem.
Maybe you don't understand what the axial face is? Its the very end of the shaft where the screw goes in, that is where you problem is.
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Both my 1990 legacys had the crank pully wobble, i just didnt give a fuck and kept driving :noel:
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when its built up then use your harbor freight bastard file and cut it back down to the proper size.
I'd say just rev it up to 9000 rpm and hold a file to it. Although that might cause other issues... :-[
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those pulleys also delaminate the rubber centre alot.
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ive done 1000 of these buy new key way J.B. weld torque like a mother fucker then SELL asap.....works wonders...ive actually made my own keyway last time cuz the crankshaft was waffled O0