:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: danz on August 12, 2010, 04:01:32 PM
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i got my home made setup on the dyno.
turbo is a little baller, but it was worth saving for as it destroys the Holset i was using last year. (lol forgot to mention its a precision 6262 journal bearing ported S cover .81 AR hotside)
449whp on 20psi on 94 oct chevron pump gas.
once again, a bad ass colt cam came to the rescue. bad ass z6 tri-flow race grind.
ghetto home made water to air intercooler setup
ghetto home made front mount mild steel mig'd manifold
block is on its 3rd rebuild, used ass old SRP pistons. garage built w/o plasti gauge or any measurements. haha
DIY port job, of course.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Flh6.ggpht.com%2F_KLU2PrSrd8E%2FTGAzysB3koI%2FAAAAAAAACIc%2FqovPqYZAETk%2Fs800%2Fdanzdyno%2520skewed.jpg&hash=7ac3c295db0a2789c6a6cff21998ede7d2e83bdc)
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ran 11.2 on a 16psi street tune spinning hard. cant wait for new slicks a cage and more seat time with this power level. havent had it to the track yet on 449whp...
no idea how to imbed but heres the vid....
FUCK YOUR MOTHER (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vvXXcqZoqgc#normal)
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Fucken SICK!!
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Bad Ass love the ek
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is there a build thread?
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thanks, the car is fucking bad ass i love it. haha. i never thought it would make this much power on pump.
yeah there is a build thread
http://www.d-series.org/forums/showcase/127388-danz-2010-1-4-mile-saga.html (http://www.d-series.org/forums/showcase/127388-danz-2010-1-4-mile-saga.html)
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:noel:
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Driving is ;D
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I'm lovin it.
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Looks like with some cam gear adjustments, you'll make more power and you'll be able to rev higher. Looks like it still wants to rev as it is anyway.
Also, you should talk to the SF guys and see if they'd lend you a Bisi cam to compare to yours. Looks like Colt Cams know what they're doing.
What kind of dyno was this? Never seen that sort of graph before.
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How much do colt cams go for now a days?
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love the 6262. i wish i had one on my shit box
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A mostly stock D-head making power until 9? Very nice.
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Wash ur car u dirty canadian. Good to see you got it running :yes:
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D112 iirc he had a bisi cam and it sucked
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Driving is ;D
thank you sir. it helps having a tranny that shifts like butter even with the throttle wide open. i wish it would hook too. hehe. now i just need a 74mm TB so i can shoot for 600whp on C16 and hit a 9. :yes:
Looks like with some cam gear adjustments, you'll make more power and you'll be able to rev higher. Looks like it still wants to rev as it is anyway.
Also, you should talk to the SF guys and see if they'd lend you a Bisi cam to compare to yours. Looks like Colt Cams know what they're doing.
What kind of dyno was this? Never seen that sort of graph before.
ya i think a little retard would do it good but i dont see a reason to. its running at 0 deg right now and i think i could take it higher. i just dont see the engine lasting long past 9000rpm. even as it sits now, i spit an alternator belt at the track last time i ran it. not really a good sign the dampener is working as well as i need it to.
i might head down to speedfactory over the winter, either bring my car or just bring the cam, so james can compare it to a 3.6. colt has helped me out a lot so if i can help them sell more of these honda cams im all for it.
the dyno is a dynocom hub dyno, kinda like a dynapack but a little different.
http://www.dynocom.net/Catalog/detail.asp?iPro=113 (http://www.dynocom.net/Catalog/detail.asp?iPro=113)
How much do colt cams go for now a days?
i think for the same one i got Geoff wants $550. wait till the canadian dollar falls and go for it. lol
D112 iirc he had a bisi cam and it sucked
yep i had a bisi 1.2 cam on my A6 and it was very underwhelming. but its hard to argue with the numbers the new more aggressive bisi cams are putting down. like the 3.6 and 2.4.
A mostly stock D-head making power until 9? Very nice.
yep stock valve size, just a 3 angle valve job, extensive DIY port work, and the bad ass cam. with shimmed LMA's haha.
Wash ur car u dirty canadian. Good to see you got it running :yes:
hah even the dudes at tech tell me to wash the car... had it for about 9 months and its yet to see a bath.
best part was running 11.5 @ 117mph on a stock z6 cam's low cam. haha. boy did the car feel like it was rippin when i actually got VTEC working. sigh...
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make another build thread up here sir. fucking sick!
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Whats the weight at, with you? Shits gona get heavy once you put that cage in.
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Whats the weight at, with you? Shits gona get heavy once you put that cage in.
shes about 2030 w/o a driver, and i could get it down to 2000lb easy. id say at least another 100lb with the cage and im about 180.
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Holy shit, that's a light EK.
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Whats the weight at, with you? Shits gona get heavy once you put that cage in.
Which is completely offset by chassis rigidity, improved traction, etc. I <3 driving caged cars, even the ghettofab ones feel better.
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but its hard to argue with the numbers the new more aggressive bisi cams are putting down. like the 3.6 and 2.4.
I heard the bigger cams were redesigned because they sucked donkey balls before and now they are much better due to the inputs from other people. ;)
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Shimmed LMA? more info please.
What are the benefits? ;D
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the cam is a regrind so i needed to shim the LMA's to keep them in contact with the base circle. its just quieter.
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What's the over all money dumped into the set up
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no clue i used a lot of parts from my old 10 second setup last year, its hard to say.
lsd/zc gears - $1000
pistons and rods - $800
ectune/ostrich - $500
IM - $200
slicks and lensos - $500
Interior stuff - $250
water to air setup - $300ish
valve job/overbore - $500 or less
clutch - $300
waste gate - $200
BOV - $60
Injectors - $200
plus other random shit. consumables, tuning, etc. im sure theres more but its hard to remember. right theres around 4k.
still needs decent suspension, 24.5 MT's and a cage.
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I'm hoping to get about the same numbers as you . I'm using a y8 with cp pistons still looking for rods on the cheap would like my motor done under 1000 bucks
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lol at the shiming. We use to put nickels under ford 2.3 lifters for a little extra lope!!
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i thought of doing the Water to air setup. How do you like it. I think i was looking at kits from frozen boost or something.
Do you street drive and DD this car?
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Air-water in a street car is an awesome way to get year round 130 deg F IATs.
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i can and do drive the car on the street. the kirkey seat kinda sucks for that, tho...
it has a reservoir that i fill with ice and water. so, if i have ice, i can boost on the street. but usually i just putt around while im on the street and dont pump anything through the core. IMHO air to air is the way to go for a street car.
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very nice
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heres another vid of a 1-2-3 pass. had to let off due to passenger and no helmet.
6262 D16 Civic on 16 pounds (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkOWwwSXJDc#normal)
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heres another vid of a 1-2-3 pass. had to let off due to passenger and no helmet.
6262 D16 Civic on 16 pounds (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkOWwwSXJDc#normal)
Damn that sounds mean! I want to see what it will do on another 10psi :noel:
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well its got a 4 bar, so maybe another 20psi?? O0
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Too much camber. you're leaving a lot of traction on the table.
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Time for some Foowee seat belt limiting straps.
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Time for some Foowee seat belt limiting straps.
Nope time for a proper aliment! Find out how much the nose lifts under hard load, lift same amount on aliment rack and set camber.
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your setup has me rethinking what i was going to do.. was leaning towards w2a for a while, but then leaned away because of the price.
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Time for some Foowee seat belt limiting straps.
Nope time for a proper aliment! Find out how much the nose lifts under hard load, lift same amount on aliment rack and set camber.
Problem I see with that is that it lifts to a point and then settles back some, I would think you would set it at about the point that it settles back, and it should be taught for pretty much the whole run, set the camber to 0 at that point and good to go.
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That's what shock valving is for, but nearly no one does that for these cars.
Foowee's method doesn't mean you fail to align the car correctly, but it does band-aid the shock valving problem. Ultimately, you buy a $$$ boost controller and break some transmissions or you settle for having a nasty streetcar that does alright at the track.
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this car has the worst suspension ever.
skunk2 drag coils in the rear, on blown stock struts.
chopped oem springs up front on kyb gr2's that are of unknown age, but seem to work alright.
needs an alignment for sure. plus it has no traction bar and the bushings are of unknown quality. i havent looked. but i suspect they could use replacement.
it needs help coming out of the hole thats for sure.
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Well, keep us updated or we'll hunt you down and kick you in the pee pee.
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for sure, i plan to.
do you think it has too much positive camber or too much negative camber?
the front is only chopped 1.5 coils, so its not a huge drop... maybe 1.5in, max.
the list of things to buy is going to go like this...
cage, 24.5's, then its a toss up between a 74mm PBT tb or some coilovers, most likely Progress....
just moved in to a new place thats about $400 a month more expensive so i got a lot less loot to play with :(
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When the front end lifts it looks like it is going well into positive camber.
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Really?
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really.
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FUCK YEAH!!
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i might chop off another coil and see how she sits. wind down the coils in the rear a bit too.. i dont think the rake is really helping much
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Too much camber. you're leaving a lot of traction on the table.
And it toes in quite a bit. However I'd assume it's toed the hell out at the line if he knows what he's doing. Regardless sounds like it's a killer setup for the money. 10's shouldn't be that hard to reach.
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i havent touched the alignment since i got the car. it really does need an alignment.
maybe i should do that. but even then im going to destroy 11.49 next time out so i dont think its going to matter w/o a cage.
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i thought this pic was funny and you all would get a laugh out of it.
check out the gap on the bracket i fabbed up. filled that bitch real nice.
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well good news and bad news.
bad news is something let go in 4th at 7500rpm.
good news is the car felt INSANE.
it was spinning 2nd gear, and not hooking back up... so, new slicks are needed bad.
hopefully its just a head gasket. the rad overflowed a lot of coolant into the ebay and a lot came out the exhaust. might be a cracked sleeve. we will see...
but more good news is my friend darin (hes got a vitara front mount50 trim setup, makes 480whp on C16) ran 10.5 @ 137, with a 110mph 1/8th. so congrats to him with now the 4th fastest street SOHC build ever.
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but more good news is my friend darin (hes got a vitara front mount50 trim setup, makes 480whp on C16) ran 10.5 @ 137, with a 110mph 1/8th. so congrats to him with now the 4th fastest street SOHC build ever.
Dope, was that the mani you migged, also? In the ef/ed?
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yeah thats the setup. car weighs about 1810lb w/o driver.
his shit is bad ass.
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The only way the setup could be any cooler is if it had a fluxcore mani and brake clean charge pipes! Still its the fucking shit with numbers like that!
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well good news and bad news.
bad news is something let go in 4th at 7500rpm.
good news is the car felt INSANE.
it was spinning 2nd gear, and not hooking back up... so, new slicks are needed bad.
hopefully its just a head gasket. the rad overflowed a lot of coolant into the ebay and a lot came out the exhaust. might be a cracked sleeve. we will see...
but more good news is my friend darin (hes got a vitara front mount50 trim setup, makes 480whp on C16) ran 10.5 @ 137, with a 110mph 1/8th. so congrats to him with now the 4th fastest street SOHC build ever.
Hope it didnt crack a sleeve....
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and if u wanted to know... making 450whp on pump is a great way to spend a few hundred dollars.
lets see, one new piston, and one trip to the machine shop for an overbore!! lol.
oh ya and new rings too... doh! :'(
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Damn that sucks! I think everyone on this forum (that have a turbo'ed car) broke a sleeve this summer lol
Why is that cylinder look so rusted? Looks like it was sitting in your backyard for months...
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Yea, I broke a sleeve too. LOL. Mine rusted out that much, if not worse, because I left it sitting for a few days, before I got around to yanking the head.
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I haven't broken a sleeve, but I'm also not pushing my engine nearly as hard as anyone on this board.
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it rusts like that when you only use water for coolant
it sat for 2 days before i took the head off... well, actually only for 1 and a half. lol.
already working on a new build but i dont think it will be done till next year. but thats a-ok with me.
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Awesome numbers, badass build. I guess if honda had made awesome sleeves from the factory these things would be crazy.
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the setup will make way more power than 450whp once its back together.
i wont be a broke ass next time and ill pay for water meth or C16.
i officially want 600whp or a 9 second pass out of this setup, without nitrous.
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new block is machined for 75.5mm 8.5:1 wiseco's
assembly today
tuning this week
racing this friday
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nice set uo danz can you get a video of the next tine you go to the track thanks
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi26.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fc118%2Fdar1n%2Fdanzz2.jpg&hash=3ec7277215ea8ca9d1f783a19cb9d00ad6ec610e)
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Look at that cluster fuck!!! I love it!
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If ur done before friday and still going to mission Ill head up as im back in town again :noel:
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do it man i should be there. i dont expect to do anything ground breaking but ill run her thats for sure
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started her up last night.
she idled ok, but needs a little work to the map before she will idle with 8.5:1 CR apposed to 9.7:1CR
i should be racing her tomorrow if the weather holds out!
reborn d16z6 turbo (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFcSTH8uEQg#normal)
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new block is machined for 75.5mm 8.5:1 wiseco's
assembly today
tuning this week
racing this friday
Looks just like my shortblock did. :) Cept I'm too lazy to make it make power.
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8.5:1 CR is too high.
Your engine bay, down to the air-water IC, looks just like my friend Timmy's - like over crowded ass. He has a slow 476 whp setup. You two would get along famously I'm sure.
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i love this car. Has me rethinking everything i was planning. Ive been wanting to do a water to air street setup for some time too.
You didnt take very long to rebuild it.
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Has me rethinking everything i was planning.
Blatant success will do that to anyone with a brain.
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Has me rethinking everything i was planning.
Blatant success will do that to anyone with a brain.
With me i can never make up my mind. But hell if i could pull it off i would be happy. Just dont know if I would do a tank or a radiator. Radiator style would be less obvious around here, since so many civics have FMICs. And everyone knows im SC.
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the reservoir system works well. but the thing i dont like is how quick the ice melts. even to do street tuning or dyno tuning im spending more money on ICE than i am on fuel. its retarded.
if i am not one of the first 10 or so cars to make a pass in my class, my ice is melted. its gay.
i want to run a stand alone AC system off a lithium battery that runs copper lines through the reservoir instead of ice. i think that would be extremely sweet.
i am also considering running air to air, with water meth, and redoing a few things. maybe even ditching the intercooler all together.
then i will use the water to air core for hot water, as my first stage fuel vaporizer. then folllow in smokey yunichs foot steps and use a very small turbo as a check valve/homogenizer and wrap the intake manifold wit exhaust gasses etc. try to build an adiabatic motor or do as good as i can. throw it all in a gutted to the max CRX with low rolling resistance wheels and some tape aero mods and see what happens.
id like to find a way to use the stock TBI system from a D15b2 but still be able to tune it...
and ideas JD?
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Heatsoak is the bane of air-water setups. While the AC based system makes my nipples hard, an air-air is probably the easiest solution.
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Nitrous.
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Nitrous.
Through the engine, pointless and kills the engine. On the/a IC, expensive - try CO2.
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Hmm nitrous has always worked well to cool post charger air temps for me. Like 430F to 65F.
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Yes, but if the temps were 250F they'd drop to 7F, or hell how about what they do to normal 65-95 degree NA IATs? Yet nitrous is still considered volatile.
Gasoline and diesel as sliiiiightly different beasts.
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Is there a problem with running temps at 7F or even -30F? Is there an ideal temperature for ingested air for combustion?
I have always been under the assumption (and quite possibly the wrong assumption) that the colder the air the more dense, therefore the colder the better.
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No, and there isn't a problem running 200F IATs, within a power range that the engine and octane gasoline can deal with.
And, Colder = denser, yes. This not being a perfect world, you offset any loss in airmass by raising the boost.
Here's my perspective that I don't think you're getting, or I'm not communicating effectively. The accompanying oxidizer is the problem with using nitrous to "cool" IATs. What the IATs drop to has nothing to do with the thermal assraping that takes place in the combustion chamber on boost + nitrous gasoline setups, and any extra airmass ingested due to cooler/denser intke charge is an icecube compared to an iceberg in the scale of things. All nitrous + boost does is rip tires free and the engine doesn't last as long. Great for dyno numbers, and as an academic tuning exercise, but fuck doing it in the real world.
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Okay for something that is a street driven race car (not a track driven street car), where you expect to tear the motor down on a frequent basis. Still not worth it in your opinion?
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Define frequent. 900 whp = 35-50 passes between freshening/explosion. 400 whp = 500+ passes plus street driving.
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this whole cold air is better thing is interesting to me since reading up more on yunichs ideas.
more is not always better as he puts it. sometimes the quality of the mixture has more of a role in making power.
a truly homogeneous mixture, even better, vaporized fuel, would burn so cleanly and concisely, there would be no pockets of fuel or places for dual flame fronts to originate from. the only thing to watch for would be pre-ignition. less fuel would create more energy from a more complete burn.
so JD, can i tune a DPFI throttle body injection system? do u know if its possible? or am i better off to make a custom fuel rail and sleeve type deal post TB and pre W2A IC?
btw this has nothing to do with my drag car.
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Define frequent. 900 whp = 35-50 passes between freshening/explosion. 400 whp = 500+ passes plus street driving.
Once a season. Just a basic D eagles vitara's and an HX-35, with some spray for the track. I am sure I would spend more in tires, and fuel and transmissions then I ever would in refreshing a D once a season.
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so JD, can i tune a DPFI throttle body injection system? do u know if its possible?
pgmfi.org, look in the OBD0 forum for EvilScribe. Support was incomplete, but it may have been fully roughed out by now.
Define frequent. 900 whp = 35-50 passes between freshening/explosion. 400 whp = 500+ passes plus street driving.
Once a season. Just a basic D eagles vitara's and an HX-35, with some spray for the track. I am sure I would spend more in tires, and fuel and transmissions then I ever would in refreshing a D once a season.
The inclusion of nitrous invalidates once a season.
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this whole cold air is better thing is interesting to me since reading up more on yunichs ideas.
more is not always better as he puts it. sometimes the quality of the mixture has more of a role in making power.
a truly homogeneous mixture, even better, vaporized fuel, would burn so cleanly and concisely, there would be no pockets of fuel or places for dual flame fronts to originate from. the only thing to watch for would be pre-ignition. less fuel would create more energy from a more complete burn.
so JD, can i tune a DPFI throttle body injection system? do u know if its possible? or am i better off to make a custom fuel rail and sleeve type deal post TB and pre W2A IC?
btw this has nothing to do with my drag car.
I've wanted to experiment with this stuff too. With a small VNT turbo so you can keep it spinning fast even under very low load. The biggest problem is not being able to run the throttle ahead of the turbo to prevent exposing it to high vacuum with standard turbo seals.
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danz, you should check out www.futurevehicletechnologies.com (http://)
it's just down the street from the shop. Their original high MPG car (Ale) was a dual vtec D15B with a pre-turbo (VW k03) injectorator, and went to a vaporizer box then the engine. I seem to remember it had a total of 5 injectors; 1 pre-turbo for gas mileage, and 4 in the regular spots, for power. Running off a Motec. It was totally cool, and George loves to talk about it. I figure he'd be a great guy to get info to making a re-imagined CRX HF.
Phil
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ive seen a CTV or Global video about him on youtube. i didnt know he was so close to you guys. next dyno day ill head over. haha :D
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well i chopped another coil off the front springs. so thats 2.5 total coils chopped off.
should help with a little more negative camber.
painted the front bumper too.
anyone coming to mission tonight?
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I likes. ;D :yes:
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Congrates on 10's!
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This isnt a bullshit question, but why would you want more negitive camber? Is it so when you launch your car lifts in the front and goes to 0* of camber?
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This isnt a bullshit question, but why would you want more negitive camber? Is it so when you launch your car lifts in the front and goes to 0* of camber?
Yes
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danz, you should check out www.futurevehicletechnologies.com (http://) (http://) (http://) (http://) (http://)
it's just down the street from the shop. Their original high MPG car (Ale) was a dual vtec D15B with a pre-turbo (VW k03) injectorator, and went to a vaporizer box then the engine. I seem to remember it had a total of 5 injectors; 1 pre-turbo for gas mileage, and 4 in the regular spots, for power. Running off a Motec. It was totally cool, and George loves to talk about it. I figure he'd be a great guy to get info to making a re-imagined CRX HF.
Phil
That wouldn't be hard at all with something like ectune. Use a fast relay, preferably a 4-pole double-throw (4pdt), to change injectors & fuel maps. A GPO would activate the relay's coil, which would then feed a signal back to an ecu input to switch to secondary maps (no pulse width/injector mismatch even with a slow power relay). You could set it to change to the MPG injectorator(s) for certain loads above certain vehicle speeds. I wanted to build a MPG car, but after getting mid-30's in a sohc rocking >1bar of boost...I laid that idea to rest. Gas isn't that bad here.
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Congrates on 10's!
thank you sir.
the car only managed to squeeze out a 10.97 @ 131mph. it was spinning so bad... it was retarded. 1st and 2nd didnt exist. i had to pull 8 degrees of timing from 2nd to get it to hook up. shit was retarded!!
injector duty cycle was at 103% at 9000rpm. limiter was set at 9600rpm sooo.... ya. going to need to upgrade for next year. im on the look out for some 1600cc's or greater. also a fuel pressure regulator would help. but once i add the water meth i should be a little more ok for fuel since the methanol will compensate.
anyways bigger slicks and a cage are in the works.
heres a random pic and a vid of the 10.9 pass.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-0Wr6uvvQpY
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Flh3.ggpht.com%2F_KLU2PrSrd8E%2FTKn_Q_W20fI%2FAAAAAAAACLQ%2FsZGm7gCJa4Y%2Fs800%2Fdanz10s.jpg&hash=f7d8a35caac3d3b78ec97d52696c77bbbbc547b1)
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Right on man, What size slick are you on right now? 23"?
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im on the look out for some 1600cc's
God, no.
http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/import-high-performance-fuel-injectors/?itemid=1244 (http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/import-high-performance-fuel-injectors/?itemid=1244)
Best shelf price I've seen on them so far.
also a fuel pressure regulator would help.
I'd run a large exit stocker gently crushed in a vise for 55 psi base pressure. Everything else is china or $Aeromotive$
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The Sewell has a good hookup on the FIC1000's.
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Right on man, What size slick are you on right now? 23"?
yeah still on the 23x8x13's and they just arent cutting it anymore. cant even pull low 1.7's its a complete nightmare.
im on the look out for some 1600cc's
God, no.
http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/import-high-performance-fuel-injectors/?itemid=1244 (http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/import-high-performance-fuel-injectors/?itemid=1244)
Best shelf price I've seen on them so far.
also a fuel pressure regulator would help.
I'd run a large exit stocker gently crushed in a vise for 55 psi base pressure. Everything else is china or $Aeromotive$
thats a good price i just know i can find some 1600's for cheap but i would really like to run some newer injectors to take advantage of the spray pattern. i got some time to save up anyways.... been thinking long and hard about running alcohol (probably methanol) and running non-intercooled. the fucking ice box pisses me off so much. love and hate thing.
im using a large exit stock FPR right now. i might have to give your idea a try. how much am i looking at crushing this thing to get roughly 55psi base (ps, is base with the car idling or with key on engine off?) 1/8" 1/4"?
The Sewell has a good hookup on the FIC1000's.
tommy boy to the rescue. gonna start putting $50 a pay day aside.
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41 psi is stock FPR base, pump running regardless of the engine running, with vacuum hose off. I'd plumb a second stock FPR before going aftermarket, can't argue with proven success.
Tommyboy FTW, except when he bumps those chops about being SE when he's merely swampland.
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run 450's and plug the return line.
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run 450's and plug the return line.
Vice grips :yes:
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im on the look out for some 1600cc's
God, no.
http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/import-high-performance-fuel-injectors/?itemid=1244 (http://www.fiveomotorsport.com/import-high-performance-fuel-injectors/?itemid=1244)
Best shelf price I've seen on them so far.
also a fuel pressure regulator would help.
I'd run a large exit stocker gently crushed in a vise for 55 psi base pressure. Everything else is china or $Aeromotive$
Sorry to clutter up the thread, but I have a question. I have a set of Delphi 1000s in my DSM, I don't like the way it idles and I've been hearing so many good things about some of the newer stuff.
Would you have any recommendation for me? I'm looking at 1000-1200cc, E85, and switching to saturated to get rid of the stock resistor box and also avoid the interference issues that come with the PWM drivers in the MS.
Those Id1000's sound good, but I just can't justify spending that much. It sounds like some of these others work just as well, but I'm not sure what to look for exactly. Any recommendations or should I go with my original plan of a staged injection setup? I'm not sure how to go with that since I'm going to be using one of the "cyclone" dual runner intake manifolds. Tapping into one runner and putting more/most(depending on which set I run in which location) of the fuel through one valve, not sure if that will cause a lot of headaches or not. The other thought is installing the extras in the intake pipe, since I'm not running an IC to help with cooling, sort of water meth effect. Then I get into possible cylinder imbalance etc.
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Your current injectors will idle smooth if you target 13.5-13.8 AFR at idle. E85, requiring a larger amount of fuel across the board, may or may not idle perfectly at stoich but they will idle better than they currently do on gas (ASSumption here).
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i love beating up on mitsufeces' at the track.
:D
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I've never actually run them on gas just e85. the car has always had a miss at idle, through stock ecu,ms, different coilpacks, power transistors two motor, different injectors. It does get better richer and the bigger inj made it much worse. I need to check wiring again.
Hoping to avoid having to idle richer and at least somewhat maximize fuel economy.
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i love beating up on mitsufeces' at the track.
:D
Not mine.
Its never running long enough to make it to the track. :P
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haha. touche
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:'(
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little update on this
i ditched the water to air, went air to air.
turned the boost up to 25psi and went a little easier on the tune.
got some 24.5's and started breaking axles and taking out trannys with broken axles. (nightmare) haha chris m u told me so
so far no internal transmission failures, but lots of broken axle stubs in the LSD...
im preloading like a jew. but not in the good way.
made the manifold a true front mount
the car made 499.7whp on C16/25psi and put down some pretty OK numbers. best 60ft is 1.61, i was shooting for a 1.5 but started breaking shit pretty regularly...
heres some vids for 2011.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_PbXihf3JY
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8AzZp4yPZIw
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S0otaUgEF_A
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I0V1diTMVbs
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God damn Danz. Shit gets out of the hole so nice. 10.5 @ 133? Nicely done!!! Congrats.
Oh, and hey JD. I just saw your post about the 5-0 injectors. And then saw that they have 2000s. Any input on those? For E85 of course. And I sure as fuck cant afford $1000 for 4 injectors (ID2000s). :Jew: So those look like a nice solution.
Sorry to thread jack.
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Yes.
I approve.
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FUCK YEA!
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i like :noel:
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thanks for the props everyone its been a lot of work. i got really sick of swapping trannys near the end of it! the first y8 tranny just wore out and started popping outa gear. the next z6 tranny i had got destroyed when the CV joint broke and the joint ended up cracking the flanged area the axle seal sits... the next tranny i got was a z6 and so far so good. survived a few broken axles.
i forgot to mention i upgraded the fuel system as well. i added an inline walbro, wired it and the existing intank walbro to battery power with a relay, and ditched the precision 788's and went with some FIC low imp 1250cc injectors. i also made the switch to an aftermarket -6AN fuel filter and ditched all the banjo fittings in the system. and with this came a GE fuel rail and chinese Aeromotive knockoff regulator.
no fuel issues at all this year :D
only issue i had this year was trying to figure out the fucking EBC. it never even comes close to spooling my turbo up as quick as my MBC and its less consistent as well.
look how lazy the boost comes in!
the green line at the bottom is boost... (this is the actual datalog from my 10.51 pass)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-MHeLgD09MJY/Tqt2OcgW99I/AAAAAAAADbE/vstUxjITE3w/s800/datalog%25252010%2525205%252520pass.JPG)
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Wheres JD when you need him, or Tom.
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Post a screenshot of your EBC settings. There's EBC Activation which I have set to 0.13psi, then Fast Spool is set to 100%, and Wastegate Activation is set to 6psi. I presume you don't have a boost leak pre-turbo, and the wg firering is in place.
For mine it means when it sees a cunt hair of boost (0.13psi) it seals the WG's bottom port (100% closed solenoid) so the valve is closed, then won't start normal PWM until at least 6psi. If your lowest boost is 18psi, you might want to choose 14psi for activation. The farther activation is to target, the softer the TQ hump. IE less of a light-switch for power. The closer it is, the faster you get full boost.
The thing about fast-building boost is sometimes you make more power when it comes on a little slow. If you look at a boost-vs-torque graph, torque will still climb drastically for 200-500rpm after full boost (after the wg opens). Basically this is where less backpressure is better than more boost.
One thing about the china regulators, the kind using teflon for the diaphragms suck at reacting. Watching the one on my flow bench makes it clear they suck.
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i was having issues where if i set fast duty spool to 100% i would only make 5psi (wg spring)
so i had to turn it to 0 and waste gate activation to 0 as well. then just mess around with the gear based target maps.
ill try what you said. i wonder if the wiring is backwards would it make a difference? the lines arent labelled..
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The wiring for the solenoid has no polarity, so thats not the issue.
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i was having issues where if i set fast duty spool to 100% i would only make 5psi (wg spring)
so i had to turn it to 0 and waste gate activation to 0 as well. then just mess around with the gear based target maps.
ill try what you said. i wonder if the wiring is backwards would it make a difference? the lines arent labelled..
If 100% fast spool leads to WG spring pressure, it's hooked up wrong or set wrong. Ectune originally had the WG setting messed up. "Normally Open" was actually normally closed and vice versa. Sounds like you have to change that then redo your duty cycle map/table. You want the solenoid to be normally closed if you don't want infinate boost when something fails.
Just in case you have the solenoid wrong, the bottom port is hooked to boost, the top to the solenoid. When the car is off and the solenoid is in normally closed config, you can blow into the WG top port hose and it will blow freely out the solenoid's vent/exhaust port.
If you want to test the config as-is, set activation to a vacuum number, turn the car key (engine off), then blow into the tube leading to the solenoid. It should blow out the wg top port tube if 100% fast spool is set to 10psi and remain that way until the MAP sees 10psi of boost. If you blow into the top port tube at 50% fast spool, half the air will come out the vent, the other half out the boost reference line to the solenoid. If activation is set to a boost number and in normally closed mode, it will flow like the car is off in the paragraph above this one.
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nice thanks thats very helpful
ill do some diggin around and invest some time into setting it up right. every time i fucked with it, i did it at the track and i was always just too quick to give up and id throw the MBC back on since it holds boost 100% rock steady and it spools like crazy over the ebc.
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LETS SEE SOME 9'S!!!
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Hipro this is great info! I'll have to reference your post once I set mine up.