:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: PhilStubbs on October 06, 2010, 03:08:46 PM
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Is it possible? I have a 91 STD hatch with a vitara block and turbo setup worth about 350-375whp. Are 10's possible? I have a bigger turbo I could use and get well over 400whp but I'm trying to stay away from that.
I'm guessing. 23" tire. Maybe bigger?
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you dont remember the nasty gold hatch gutted with big holes in the hood?, cant remember the user name, east coast member though
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Sounds kind of familiar, don't remember it enough to base a plan of action around it.
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it was built on the cheapest of cheap, someone will post it up. it was on a holset.
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Dr. D series
Did 10's with like 330whp
But I will let you know he could drive the shit out of that car!
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and i think he got deep into the 11's with low 200 hp.
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I'm using a cdm 50 trim that I rebuilt. I have been daily driving it at 15 psi for a long time with no issues. I just don't want to push it past 20psi. It's good for about 375whp at 20psi. I have a real Garrett 60-1 I can use if I need more power, but this is for a GRM $2011 build so I am trying to stay away from something expensive.
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Easy way to find out.
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I plan to find out, I'm 99% sure I will run this setup, I just really want to run high 10's for this race. I was hoping someone else has done it
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The gold hatch ran 10.30's with 430
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its easily doable with enough weight reduction and good driving.
good driving being the part you either got, or you dont.
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its easily doable with enough weight reduction and good driving.
good driving being the part you either got, or you dont.
And got suspension and alignment helps. :yes:
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its easily doable with enough weight reduction and good driving.
good driving being the part you either got, or you dont.
And got suspension and alignment helps. :yes:
Well dr.d did it on a totlay mismached suspention setup. And I think he did it with a few blown shocks too. If I rember right he ran like a hi 10 with 330whp ish. But then he did a bunch more work and ended up with like 430 like chris said.
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This sounds well within my reach for this car then. I have been researching drag suspension and I think I can get that car pretty light. I'm not a horrible driver but I have a lot more street racing experience over actual track experience.
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get 24.5's the newer the better for slicks. trust me spinning down the track on slicks sucks huge, such a waste of power...
throw some VX's on the rear and pump em up to 50psi
the lighter the wheel/tire combos the better of course. no rear disc or integra brake upgrades that shit is so gay.
get an LSD, just to keep the tranny alive.
flat foot shifting helps a lot.
seat time.
put the roll bar in right off the bat.
try removing the hood for more weight reduction.
oh and dont forget to upgrade your shitty STD axles because when they break, and they will, you will have a hard time finding another one.
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LSD is out of the question, it just won't fit the budget.
It seems that the hood would be more beneficial as aerodynamics than gone for weight. I guess I should add that I will be making a fiberglass hood for the car. I am considering removing the rear hatch for weight reduction.
I plan to make it to a few test n tune nights before the actual event.
I have extra axles that are non STD.
I have no intentions of touching the brakes. The turbo will be too big to really be good in the auto-x. No sense in wasting tire money on brakes that won't do me any good.
My wife sells tires wholesale and said she can get some toyo slicks for $130 each. I think I will just get them new. That might be 23" though. I will have her check again.
I do plan to cage it. The cage is considered a safety item and doesn't come out of the budget.
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I appreciate the info, I hope I don't come off in that post as sounding like I know it all. Just laying out my plans as people bring up important points
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the tranny wont hold up long on the stock diff and when the diff goes the tranny case usually goes with it. just to warn ya. it might last for a while it might pop on the first launch.
the short game is where it all happens. if the launch is soft and slow the pass will be just as crappy.
got a link to the toyo slicks?
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Weld it.
Trevor72 drives his welded diff almost daily, and he is just a little guy (well compared to the rest of us in the NW and NW Canada area) His vitara hx-35 setup makes ~400whp.
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Weld it.
Trevor72 drives his welded diff almost daily, and he is just a little guy (well compared to the rest of us in the NW and NW Canada area) His vitara hx-35 setup makes ~400whp.
I was just about to sudjest welding the diff my self.
In for the links on the Toyo slicks. Curious to see if they are the same or similar to the 4 slick I have. A08's or something like that. :-\
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Welding it crossed my mind. I just don't want to kill the auto-x time. I also considered welding up a spare diff and swapping it after the auto-x.
No link to the slicks myself. Her company is a toyo dealer to tire stores, they don't have any web stuff available to the general public.
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maybe just keep your eyes open for a used OBX. that would be the budget orientated thing to do.
but you never know it might hold up. might be a good idea to go for 23s or 22's in that case tho. easier on the drive train.
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Seems to me you would be faster at auto x with a welded diff, then an open one. Be able to actually put the power down instead of just spinning the inside tire.
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NA guys run 10's off of 250 whp. What do they know that you do not?
Seems to me you would be faster at auto x with a welded diff, then an open one. Be able to actually put the power down instead of just spinning the inside tire.
Speechless.
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...Speechless.
I believe this is a first. :-*
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NA guys run 10's off of 250 whp. What do they know that you do not?
weight reduction, aero, how to drive, proper gearing, weight reduction, and more weight reduction?
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Do a few lines of coke a day and ull get the weight down :mexi:
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...Speechless.
I believe this is a first. :-*
The spool in the drag car makes normal three point turns impossible, with a driver that weighs in as three Trevors. 3-4 guys follow the car around and push on the ass end of the car to hop it around tight corners.
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...Speechless.
I believe this is a first. :-*
The spool in the drag car makes normal three point turns impossible, with a driver that weighs in as three Trevors. 3-4 guys follow the car around and push on the ass end of the car to hop it around tight corners.
Glad to see you found your voice. :P
I weigh in at just shy of an actual two Trevor's, and have no issues driving that car, or even slow speed parking it, in a tight lot. If anything little Trevor's have more issues trying to muscle it.
I had a '79 civic, with the goldwing pistons, and 4 dellorto carbs, koni inserts ect... Going to a welded diff in that made me almost a full second quicker on the local boundary bay airport auto x.
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Eh, either soft 24.5" slicks change the dynamic or the frozen tundra of Canadastan helps you out.
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Hmm can't say I have ever driven Trevor's car with the 24.5's on it. Just street tires. I did drive that 79 with some sticky yoko's.
Now I want to clarify. It most certainly increases turning radius, but in my experience it is not unreasonable.
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hm ive never been auto-x'n
some dude came by from Harrison the other day and was going on about circle track racing at agazzi (how ever the fuck you spell it)
sounds like fun. i gotta try some different racing other than drag racing
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A spool in a turning car goes against everything I ever knew. It's surprising to hear some success with it.
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Go carts run spools in the rear. (I know apples oranges)
I don't think Trevor has ever run auto x, he was too hungover to make the last one of the season this year. I know in my experience there was never too tight of a corner in any of the courses I ran, that I couldn't navigate them with the reduced turning radius of the welded diff, and the big difference was exiting corners, and not just having my inside tire spin and not go anywhere. It actually caused me to have some oversteer issues if I wasn't careful. The 79 was setup like most of the vw rabbits that I competed against with no front sway bar, and iirc I found a big bar out of like a ford ranger and fabbed some brackets to make that work for my rear bar.
That car was down right scary in the rain merging on tight overpass loops, if for some reason I had to get out of the throttle. I had one time in exactly that circumstance, a big piece of plastic blew up out of the inside of the loop, and I just saw it with my peripheral vision panicked as I wasn't sure what it was dropped right out of the throttle, and the car looped about 4 times before it came to a stop, in the right hand lane on the free way. Thank god traffic was light, and people managed to get around me.
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Oh and that had nothing to do with the welded diff and everything to do with the suspension setup, and me letting panic overcome good driving sense.
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I think negative camber+weight transfer is what enables a spool to function in a car that turns. Then all the power is going to the front outside wheel, so I could see it going faster 'cause you'd be able to get into the throttle sooner, than if all the power were being used to spin the inside front tire...
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driving a spooled FWD car on slicks is a whole different animal then some crap street tires that give a bit while turning.
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It won't be on drag slicks in the auto-x if that makes a difference
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I tryed to google spooled...
Whats it mean? ASSuming welded diff... :-\
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yeah a spool is just a solid hub instead of a diff/lsd, so a spooled diff would just be solid.
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I tryed to google spooled...
Whats it mean? ASSuming welded diff... :-\
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi98.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl271%2Fgrand-champ%2FCIVIC002.jpg&hash=bcefd5feb61e9a5bcfc2499f00f367c58bcb600f)
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What are everyones thoughts on using a phantom slip for just the GRM challenge? I know they rely on the weak D diff pin but would it be better than an open diff for a 2 day event?
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What are everyones thoughts on using a phantom slip for just the GRM challenge? I know they rely on the weak D diff pin but would it be better than an open diff for a 2 day event?
I would ask Bones, oh and look out for an education on this.
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I think there is a gold/hardened oem diff pin that can be used w/the phantom slip, but it still doesn't replace the weak spider gears...
driving a spooled FWD car on slicks is a whole different animal then some crap street tires that give a bit while turning.
Notice how much of the inside tire actually touches the ground:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Foriginalgaijin.files.wordpress.com%2F2010%2F07%2Fprocar1020310.jpg&hash=19ada5a1ac32f50362ebc4e33e44e6131aca259c)
Most handling has to do with how the outside tires make contact and how you can apply force to them...