:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: crxvtec91 on October 06, 2010, 05:21:20 PM
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This rhmt, so in other words im broke and dont feel like spending the money on either a qsd kit or Bisi. Anyone done one of these swaps with out the plate? Got any pic's?
I have a free F motor someone is giving me, and my type r trans. Looking at doing a super rhmt build using the F motor, 4g63 pistons, H23 rods, and some goodies from Chris M, and a nice truck turbo :noel:
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Done 6 years ago in a trailer park in Palmdale,Ca.
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Oh and the h2b is not just the plate sir
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Oh and the h2b is not just the plate sir
Was going to use both mounts on the trans, bolt in the axles, and fab up my own engine mount on the super cheap :evil:
Mounts will be a take from this :noel: http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=2098.0 (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=2098.0)
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custom flywheel and custom clutch required as well.
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custom flywheel and custom clutch required as well.
B disks have the same hubs as a H clutch. Disks are the same dia too.... Ive seen it done ghetooeeeeee but cant remember where.
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custom flywheel and custom clutch required as well.
custom flywheel and custom clutch required as well.
B disks have the same hubs as a H clutch. Disks are the same dia too.... Ive seen it done ghetooeeeeee but cant remember where.
Thats the plan, b series clutch, pp, starter, flywheel.
What would most say the limits are on the sleeves (Stock f22a6), rods (H23) and pistons (oem 4g63)? (JD, BDV, ROB?)
This is rhmt the more ghetooeeeeee the more jb weld there will be :P
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Plus the halfshaft needs to be addressed
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Plus the halfshaft needs to be addressed
If you were doing f/h straight in an EG chassis I have the axles and transmission. ;D
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Also do you own a bridgeport mill and weld cast materials? if not it will not be that cheap to do your idea hence why adapter plates are so popular. People who own machines are not working for pennies. Your average skilled machinist will charge 65-100 an hour.
If it was as easy as you seem to think it is there would of been a hell of alot more. The only guys I have seen sucessfully do a mix match of series motors and have cars that actually went to races were Hickman's crx with the h2b that was done 6 years back and the setup is now in Sweden and Sppedfactory.
Now can it be done yes. Do I have a transmission case modified just like Hickman's,yup, its collecting dust in the corner. Am I taking pics so the pics spread all over the internet and I keep hearing back how to do it,nope.
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the limit on the motor depends on the compression ratio and they use stroker pistons when they do this or is the 23 rod short? than a h22? you should be able to get to 450ish no problem past that idk. depending on what you end up for with a cr. and why not just use a f trans or h, sell the type r and buyt 10
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I agree sell the type r unit for atleast 800. There is your funds to build the car as you desire.
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meh, be different and try it. If you have half a brain and some fab skills, access to parts, I'm sure you can figure it out. Too many naysayers, life would be pretty fucking boring if everyone did the same damn thing and never tried anything different
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H2B is fanboi shit for people with moneys. Rna M2X4 and call it a day, axle angle will suxor but the savings will outweigh ANY amount of niggery needed to overcome it.
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H2B is fanboi shit for people with moneys. Rna M2X4 and call it a day, axle angle will suxor but the savings will allow you to boost it and outweigh ANY amount of niggery needed to overcome it.
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H2B is fanboi shit for people with moneys. Rna M2X4 and call it a day, axle angle will suxor but the savings will outweigh ANY amount of niggery needed to overcome it.
shit i loved my h2b swap.but if i remember it was alot more work that you think. and your going to try and do it with out the plate? i hope you have ALOT of time and cash.
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I remember the H2b adapter we had for the NW HMT pinks car looked very home brew ish, Like bust out the plasma cutter and tap a few holes :mexi:
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Yep, I remember that one too Steve. I think Jeff sold it on Craigslist.
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H2B is fanboi shit for people with moneys. Rna M2X4 and call it a day, axle angle will suxor but the savings will outweigh ANY amount of niggery needed to overcome it.
wtf does Rna M2X4 mean?
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h series transmission
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someone local to me did it. i sent yoseph davis the pics but i dont have them anymore. basically it had 1 of the top bolts in, the t bracket in the back connected the motor to the trans and they drilled a hole through the block below the engine code stamp and put a long bolt and nut on it. i was pretty amazed. used the h22 clutch/flywheel and i think it was a b series trans mount.
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With all the nigrigging.. how do you manage to keep that shit lined up?
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With all the nigrigging.. how do you manage to keep that shit lined up?
Thats the part I cant seem to find anything on ???
I agree sell the type r unit for atleast 800. There is your funds to build the car as you desire.
Thought anout that, but I dont like the feel of the cable shifter :PH2B is fanboi shit for people with moneys. Rna M2X4 and call it a day, axle angle will suxor but the savings will outweigh ANY amount of niggery needed to overcome it.
wtf does Rna M2X4 mean?
It was one of the trans BDV had the most luck with.
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if you get nice enough shifter and a short throw with nicer bushings they still shift pretty nice had one in my hatch and i liked it for the most part.
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With all the nigrigging.. how do you manage to keep that shit lined up?
What would be hard about having the input shaft in the clutch/pilot bearing while niggering it all up?
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I belive the input shaft pilot bushing snub is different, not sure, but the hubs are definately the same.
Dont be a dipshit, just use a H trans. Unless your making 500 or more youll be fine.
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custom flywheel and custom clutch required as well.
B disks have the same hubs as a H clutch. Disks are the same dia too.... Ive seen it done ghetooeeeeee but cant remember where.
thats pretty fricking sweet.
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Cable shifters are fine I dont see any real issue with them.
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Start with a random bare F/H block and the hollowed out transmission of your choice. Machine a shaft that passes through your main bearing saddles and the transmission bearing journals, so that it precisely locates the two. Modify the trans bellhousing as needed to fit your block bolt pattern - protip: weld aluminum sleeves w/ alignment dowel slots to the block, don't just rely on bolt holes.
Custom flywheel/clutch only needed if you are H2D.
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Cable shifters are fine I dont see any real issue with them.
Mine works jussst fine. I did the ziptie trick, gonna replace the plastic bushings with solids too here while its getting caged.
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haha yoseph. i like how u said D. :-*
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Cable shifters are fine I dont see any real issue with them.
Mine works jussst fine. I did the ziptie trick, gonna replace the plastic bushings with solids too here while its getting caged.
c c c c caged? been going to the track? or going?
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Cable shifters are fine I dont see any real issue with them.
Mine works jussst fine. I did the ziptie trick, gonna replace the plastic bushings with solids too here while its getting caged.
blah blah blah, that things been getting caged for years.
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Cable shifters are fine I dont see any real issue with them.
Mine works jussst fine. I did the ziptie trick, gonna replace the plastic bushings with solids too here while its getting caged.
blah blah blah, that things been getting caged for years.
Marcus got a bender :O)
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For your gender?
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Make no mistake, given the opportunity (ONLY meaning being within a 1000 mile geographiocal radius), I will fuck Sewells ass.
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Just saw that evoindusa came out with a d2b kit. Nice.
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Makes me want to get my ZC/Si gearbox back.
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Damn a b2d also those are dust collectors
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I've been fucking up my binary logic every day this week.
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I've been checking out the h2b madness in the H-T Hybrid forum, and saw a thread about this. Seems that if you use the bolt holes on the top nearest the manifold, then angle the motor back 20*, the crank and input shaft line up. You then have to drill a hole in the h-block to use that first b-trans bolt hole nearest the slave cylinder. Then you make a engine mount bracket out of steel plate. I would assume of of these nogs don't even connect the half shaft bracket to the block, although 2-6 holes in that plate steel and some weldage would make an adapter pretty easy. After that you weld up a header/DP and you're fine. Given the space needed for the manifold, you might have to move some firewall crap.
Anyways, h2b adapter plate creation isn't all that hard. You simply have to get the crank and input shaft lined up; the machined faces already keep them parallel. The hard part is repeatability, which requires the dowel pin holes drilled precisely. The other stuff, machining and welding, should be as easy to a RHMT'er than wiping one's ass after a massive BDVT-esque shit.
1) Engine Dowels You'd drill engine dowel holes in the plate, since they are somewhat arbitrary. At this point you just need precise spacing from each other. You drill those, slap on a F/H motor & tranny, then use the trans bolt holes to find where to drill.
2) Tranny Dowels Using JD's shaft idea lengthened a few inches, you could use a dowel pin with a plum bob sticking out it's center to find the tranny dowel holes. You could also use a few identical turned spacers, but you'd have to have to locate crank center using a plum bob in a similar fasion. At this point, you'll decide what angle to set the engine at. Judging from pictures, QSD keeps the top row of engine/trans bolts near the head parallel. Finishing the holes with a reamer would serve you well.
You could also puss out, take the engine block & trans to a machinist, and have him replicate the dowel pin/centerline "triangles" on the plate.
3) Other Holes Stick the trans on with dowel pins and make your trans/etc holes as needed, along with cutting the big-ass flywheel/starter hole.
4) Turn the crank spacer You only need the thickness to be the difference between the h-block and b-blocks' crank-lip-to-bellhousing-edge distance (if thats even different), plus the plate thickness. Machine one end to fit inside the flywheel nice & tight, and the other end to fit over the crankshaft like the FW normally does. The 8 holes don't have to be remotely perfect if you machine the lips well.
5) Misc. Fabbing Weld the required engine & halfshaft brackets, along with the header/DP.
IMO the worst DIY part would be cutting the giant hole for the flywheel & the outside shap, but a sawzall would sufice since this is Sparta RHMT.
Of course, like turbocharging a ZC in 1999, it's easier said than done...but doable with basic tools beside a lathe and welder. At this point in my life, it would be cheaper to spend freetime on this than working long enough to buy a QSD kit.
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Interesting I have a spare ex clutch housing two spare and stripped H-blocks maybe something could be figured out for cheap. :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:
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BTW: honda lists the same clutch disc for a 97 Prelude and a 00 ITR...
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Interesting I have a spare ex clutch housing two spare and stripped H-blocks maybe something could be figured out for cheap. :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:
Lol, if anyone would try it, it'd be you. An F2B with a normal turbo setup would keep the lowend your dualcharged setup nets on your 1.6L...
FYI, I measured ~0.07" deep from the bellhousing flange to the edge of the crankshaft on a B18B1.