:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: patsmx5 on April 12, 2009, 12:31:34 AM
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While back I thought I knew what I was doing, and I wired rewired my car for MegaSquirt 2 Extra and Ford EDIS 4 ignition (supposed to be a badass, simple, reliable ignition...). Made an entire new engine harness. This is the schematic of how it's wired, for the most part. Well, this is mainly how I think it should be wired, and for the most part, this is how it is with very little deviation. Yeah the schematic is shitty. I could redo it, and I might. I could clean it up and make it look neater, but whatever...
Questions:
Is there anything fundamentally wrong?
Are there any ground loops?
Why do I have sensor noise on my CLT sensor?
Why does my EDIS 4 ignition system hate me?
What would you change to make the system better and reduce sensor noise?
My damn ignition system is just loosing its mind. Keep in mind it worked great for a couple months boosted. Even ran 15 PSI before and it worked PERFECT. Now I loose spark when it boost. Like I hit anti lag. I'm running 11 PSI and .020" gap on new 5k ohm resistor NGK BKR6E sparkplugs. New tested OEM equivalent Bosch Professional Series wires. Tried two ignition modules, then bought a new one. One used coil, then a new one. One used VR sensor, then a new one. Four sets of plugs. When I put new plugs, it seems to run right for a day (only pattern I've noticed). It even misses at idle and cruise. It just flat out stops igniting the mixture at full boost sometimes, or sometimes at 8 PSI, or 5, or 2. Just whatever it feels like. All wiring has been double and triple checked.
I'm at the point that I don't know what to do next. Perhaps make another new wiring harness for the ignition system is my only idea. I put it the gap to .040" and it wouldn't make but like 2 PSI before spark cuts out. Then .030" and maybe 6 PSI. Now at .020" and it always cuts out a 11 PSI, but varies from 2-11 PSI.
$10.00 to whoever if they figure out why my car misses.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2Fwiring4-11-097.jpg&hash=ac4b32639ff1d739b66ec29d0b134856bde20fe4)
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Gonna test the coil out with a meter tomorrow. I know I've gotten bad coils before. And come to think of it, it usually runs "perfect" for about 20 seconds from a cold start up before the miss at idle/everywhere becomes noticeable.
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Ignition sucking:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2Fdatalogpic4-11-092.jpg&hash=b53c009d749c9b37aa5aab91a26447774a72e054)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2Fdatalogpic4-11-091.jpg&hash=78af9923e184d834709b470143689bf8f20e468b)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2Fdatalogpic4-11-093-1.jpg&hash=2a350dde1a51f93680b87779e09e936bad8d9ea7)
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dont use resistor plugs?
Pretty much all fuel injected engines use resistor plugs. It cuts down on EMI, RFI, and all that. OEM plug is a BKR5E, so this one is just one step cooler from stock.
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Well....... This is weird. Sorta fixed it. I redid the ground for the EDIS 4 module today. Measured the old one a 0.00 ohm resistance, but decided to redo it anyways. It was actually grounded to the body before. I made a new 12 gauge wire for it, crimped a new ring terminal to the wire, cleaned the body area where it bolts to with a dremel to perfectly clean metal, and bolted it down securely. New one measured 0.00 ohm resistance, but should be better/perfect now.
Datalogging, I fired it up and it idles the same for about 2 minutes. Then it got a weeeee bit better. Still misses, but maybe not as bad as before. Now I've had the idle around 1400 RPMs forever, so it makes it harder to detect a misfire. So I put it down in the 600 RPM range it it's much easier to hear it skip a beat now, and now the motor visually torques/jumps over more when it misses. (which it does so 2-3 times every second now, think "dahhh, da, da, dahhhhh, da, dahhhhh, da, dahh, da, dahhhh....").
However, it doesn't completely "cut out" any more at full boost. Made probably 30 boosted pulls :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: :yes: and it only cut out when I hit fuel cut at 7100 RPMs! Haven't found fuel cut in forever!
But, it's still not 'right'. Datalogs show RPM is always fluctuating 40-50 RPMs, even when boosting. IE- it's still missing, and I can tell cause power ain't what it should be. So, now I'm officially stumped. I did buy some new Motor Craft sparkplugs I figured I'd install just in case this EDIS ignition is partial to a Ford plug. But they're the factory heat range, not cooler, so I'm fixin'a see if I can look up the correct part number for this plug, in a cooler range, since the folks at autozone just work there, and are clueless.
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try stock plugs if you have them, and id say your ohmmeter is off because wire HAS resistance, albeit very little in short distances
The meter does suck, agreed. It won't even read milli ohm directly. POS from RadioShack. I never would have bought it if I would have known what a piece it is.
Pulled the 1 heatrange cooler NGK BKR6E plugs out after 30 boosted pulls, and the rear most cylinder plug's insulator was a lot cleaner than the other three (IE-it wasn't running ass cool). So I put a new set of NGK BKR7E's, which are two heat ranges cooler than stock. Also gaped them to .040" instead of .020. It's raining, so I couldn't get to full boost to see how it does with the colder plug and larger gap.
From memory, 12 gauge wire is like 2.2e^-4 ohms per foot I think. :noel:
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Datlog pics after redoing that ground wire.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2Fdatalogpic4-12-091.jpg&hash=d587eb01992c385d5b6baa8f78b5bfeca22461b7)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2Fdatalogpic4-12-092.jpg&hash=e7890f5f15e9cf01c04b8c3f36339adb5404ac7f)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2Fdatalogpic4-12-093.jpg&hash=8e3b4a346bdae1d0f4c437df202a580525d08d25)
As you can see, better, but not fixed. The crazy looking shit at high RPM is fuel cut, so that's normal. But if you look, you can see RPM is still wiggly, where it should be smooth.
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BTW, 75% duty cycle on 550's running 62 PSI fuel pressure in a 2100 pound car = fast. :noel:
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$10.00 to whoever if they figure out why my car misses.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2Fwiring4-11-097.jpg&hash=ac4b32639ff1d739b66ec29d0b134856bde20fe4)
There is no ground in that schematic.
Well....... This is weird. Sorta fixed it. I redid the ground for the EDIS 4 module today. Measured the old one a 0.00 ohm resistance, but decided to redo it anyways. It was actually grounded to the body before. I made a new 12 gauge wire for it, crimped a new ring terminal to the wire, cleaned the body area where it bolts to with a dremel to perfectly clean metal, and bolted it down securely. New one measured 0.00 ohm resistance, but should be better/perfect now.
That is not ground. All you did is alleviate some of the resistance under load in the circuit. Try grounding the system.
My paypal is pgmfielf@gmail.com, and your answer to your engine management problem is in the engine management forum.
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I read this: http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=1195 (http://www.realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/index.php?topic=1195) 5 times so far. Not sure I understand how it's not grounded.
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Is this any better with regard to AIT and CLT sensors?
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2Fwiring4-11-098.jpg&hash=981eed012c582f5c4457a866c27bcadeefb769a4)
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I'm still not seeing a ground anywhere in that diagram.
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I'm still not seeing a ground anywhere in that diagram.
Well, I'm confused. The car runs, FWIW.
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I'm still not seeing a ground anywhere in that diagram.
Well, I'm confused. The car runs poorly, FWIW.
Yeah, ground problems cause that.
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Grounded now?
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2Fwiring4-11-099.jpg&hash=bd03491f9fadfa386889a821278298fa83144a75)
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No change that I can discern, but I'm looking for grounds and not at individual wires.
Maybe you should try questioning your premises, or sending me my ten dollars, or hell here's a crazy thought posting this in the correct forum so the guy who knows the answer to your question quits playing silly games. :P
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No change that I can discern, but I'm looking for grounds and not at individual wires.
Maybe you should try questioning your premises, or sending me my ten dollars, or hell here's a crazy thought posting this in the correct forum so the guy who knows the answer to your question quits playing silly games. :P
Yeah, I realized it's in the wrong forum, my bad. Can't a mod move it? Dunno what premises I should be questioning either. The blocks with wires going to them are grounding bars, like what you see inside a breaker box inside your house.
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The grounding bars, if hit with dielectric to prevent corrosion, are a good idea. Frankly, I've been pondering something similar. However, they aren't grounded either.
Keep spinning the concept in your head.
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The grounding bars, if hit with dielectric to prevent corrosion, are a good idea. Frankly, I've been pondering something similar. However, they aren't grounded either.
Keep spinning the concept in your head.
Yeah, they they do corrode. I should have used dielectric on them. How they aren't grounded is beyond me. Wires hook to the ground bar, and a wire connects the ground bar to the "chassis" which is a huge metal frame thingy on the car, which is where the Negative battery cable connects. There is only like 1 wire going from the block to the body though, so I can see that being a problem with grounding shit to body, then it all has to go through that one wire, through the block, back to chassis.
Gonna make a new engine harness this summer again if I can pry out how to ground it properly from you before mid early June.
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So close. So almost there.
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Run a new wire from chassis to body, or just run a new wire from Chassis right to the ignition system's ground? Hell, perhaps there shouldn't even be a wire going from the block to the body, but that's the OEM ground.
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I think JD's getting at putting a ground on the cylinder head since that's where the spark plugs are grounded, or connecting it with your other grounds.
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So I need to run a big ass wire from the chassis to the head, and hook the ignition systems ground right there to the same lug as the big ass ground to complete the loop when the system fires the plug? Or one heavy wire going from the head right to the negative of the battery? Hell, right now the ignition system is having to ground through some tiny braided factory line that goes from the block to the body. :?:
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I am deeply saddened by this thread.
Padraig, post pics of your engine bay.
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I am deeply saddened by this thread.
Padraig, post pics of your engine bay.
??? ??? ??? ???
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Better?
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2Fwiring4-11-0910.jpg&hash=e0c617cccaa477e67bc9635f90bc4812ad9e565d)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2F100_2259.jpg&hash=a3b3875f8e925bdb7573021141c7a3846e2cb9af)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2F100_2258.jpg&hash=6365094fd587fc937cb5e72a4ffe565888e8c7b8)
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This:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2Fwiring4-11-0911.jpg&hash=f8e52a282f9599e89262f26ee6476ab432cbf52d)
Or this?
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2Fwiring4-11-0912.jpg&hash=77f72314249136c46b900ef94ffd9485da091dca)
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Thanks rawr. I'm glad I pay attention to myself, although I wish I'd let myself continue to play games for a while longer.
There is no such thing as a "body" ground. All a twenty year old unibody is comprised of is a bunch of paint (insulator) and rusted (insulator) spot welds. You throw a ground strap or three to the body in order to keep it from floating and propigating RF interference, but it is in no way shape or for ground. Just because some OEM who cares about 3 years and 36K miles put the battery's negative terminal to the chassis (because six inches of cable is cheaper than two feet) and grounded a bunch of critical systems (fuel pump) to the chassis doesn't mean that it's *correct*.
What you had, between the paint and rusted out spot welds, is a poor "ground" path and a certain amount of capacitance. Between the inductance of the coils and this capacitance you had a big fat tank circuit and at a certain frequency neither capacitor or inductor wanted to pass current so shit just sat there and misfired.
Now go ground your goddamn car.
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Also, another thought. Avoid your head as ground point. Those cars use a paper headgasket aka insulator, and I've never liked how Al + Fe with current = corrosion.
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Ok, so right now there's a OEM ground wire that goes from the battery to "chassis", which is a big steel beam that connects the tail shaft of the transmission to the rear end (called the Power Plant Frame, PPF). I drilled two holes in the PPF, polished the steel around the holes, and bolted two clean ring terminals down, each with a 10 gauge wire crimped to them. Right now, both heavy wires go to the sensor ground bar.
So would it be correct to remove one of the +10 wires from the sensor ground bar and hook it to another bar that feeds the ignition system and cylinder head ground? Or do these grounds need to come directly from the battery post ground? And I suppose it wouldn't hurt to ground the fans to the PPF as they're currently grounded to the body.
And this car has a MLS headgasket, I know; I've changed it twice. :noel:
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The battery post ground does nothing more than ground the battery so that it can be charged and be used. Your grounds need to go to your block. All ground paths must have a path to the block or atleast make sure all of your EFI grounds go to the block.
Ahhhh. Si. Hmm. So you're one of those "the alternator runs the car" guys. Never thought grounding shit could be so complicated :P.
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The battery post ground does nothing more than ground the battery so that it can be charged and be used. Your grounds need to go to your block. All ground paths must have a path to the block or atleast make sure all of your EFI grounds go to the block.
Ahhhh. Si. Hmm. So you're one of those "the alternator runs the car" guys. Never thought grounding shit could be so complicated :P.
What do you think runs the car, perpetual motion?
Grounding the car is simple. Run the ground wires to ground. :somb:
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So would it be correct to remove one of the +10 wires from the sensor ground bar and hook it to another bar that feeds the ignition system and cylinder head ground? Or do these grounds need to come directly from the battery post ground? And I suppose it wouldn't hurt to ground the fans to the PPF as they're currently grounded to the body.
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Why are you quoting your bullshit from earlier? None of that is ground, stop calling it such.
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Why are you quoting your bullshit from earlier? None of that is ground, stop calling it such.
Well, mazda didn't put not one ground wire that actually attaches to the block. Guess I need to fix that...
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Funny how they all seem to have ignition problems.
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They all have ignition problems. :P
So I need to ground everything to the block basically. Should I actually run a ground wire from the battery to the block though? I'm guessing the alternators case is the source of "ground" and it attaches to the block, so will that suffice?
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No, you want varying ground offsets between random systems. Make sure nothing directly connects to anything else that is supposed to be "grounded" for best results.
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No, you want varying ground offsets between random systems. Make sure nothing directly connects to anything else that is supposed to be "grounded" for best results.
Oh, well I'm good to go then. O0
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2Fwiring4-11-0915.jpg&hash=8d43173495437c6a57dad7587620b2298db2a789)
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Rewired it EXACTLY how it's shown in the above post. Only exception is that the cooling fans are still grounded to the body.
Wideband reading is slightly better, CLT sensor reading is slightly smoother (though still noisy). But worst of all.... The fucker still has a miss everywhere. :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :( :(
Folks on the MegaSquirt forums said to try getting an aftermarket coil, like the Accel or MSD. I've tried a used coil (that test good) and a new coil from autozone (which also test good) and it misses the same on both coils. (at idle, cruise, boost, you name it, and at .040" gap, .030", .020") I have a feeling this isn't the coil. Fuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuck.
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Just ordered a new set of sparkplug wires. You know, to replace my new sparkplug wires that test fine with a meter. They're cheaper than a new coil, which is also new, and also test fine with a meter, but more-newer than the new wires. OEM NGK's this time. The ones on there now are Botch Professional Series wires, which I've used on several other cars I own and never had a problem with. But maybe, just maybe, it's the wires.
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I posted on your MS post on the forums. Like I said I was having fuckloads of interrupts, disconnects and shit. I added a capacitor to the coil, which i got off an escort at the junk yard. You could also put one at the alternator as well. What made the biggest difference was putting a radio power filter on the 12v line going into the MS. ALL of my problems went away, I also did a giant thick ass ground wire thing. Tied it all over the damned place. Its hidiious. I still have a missfire at idle with my EDIS, frankly I had a good run with MS. Never left me stranded, made me good reliable power. But Im ready to try something else. I'm converting ot honda ignition.
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PS: most peoples biggest complaint with MS is almost always RF interference and noise in everything.
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I posted on your MS post on the forums. Like I said I was having fuckloads of interrupts, disconnects and shit. I added a capacitor to the coil, which i got off an escort at the junk yard. You could also put one at the alternator as well. What made the biggest difference was putting a radio power filter on the 12v line going into the MS. ALL of my problems went away, I also did a giant thick ass ground wire thing. Tied it all over the damned place. Its hidiious. I still have a missfire at idle with my EDIS, frankly I had a good run with MS. Never left me stranded, made me good reliable power. But Im ready to try something else. I'm converting ot honda ignition.
Yeah, see that thread over there. :P Anyways, I've got the 25uF capacitor hooked up, and a noise filter hooked up to MS, and even have the 2 different mods done to the MS to reduce noise due to the low ohm injectors. MS seems to be doing its thing great, finally. EDIS does the ignition though, and I have a miss. That's not MS's fault. I could unhook MS and (if the engine was still getting fuel) it would run in limp mode at 10*BTDC. And I just got done redoing the grounds. I think they're fine now, but I'd like for JD or someone to say that's right. I think it is though.
MS has never left me stranded either. And it runs and boost and it's fast. But if it would quit missing it would run that much better, and I'm sure it would be faster running on 4 cylinders vs. 3.48-3.79 cylinders. I'm praying new new wires fix thisl.
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you are using a made in china coil packaged in usa
what do you expect
Ford OEM coil that test good does the same thing. Probably a china made coil too though. So what coil would you suggest? MSD or Accel?
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you are using a made in china coil packaged in usa
what do you expect
Ford OEM coil that test good does the same thing. Probably a china made coil too though. So what coil would you suggest? MSD or Accel?
accel has been proven since they came out. accel coil msd/mallory ingition
thousands of cars run with this setup. accel makes a better quality canister/oil filled coil if not the best
Hmm. Accel coil is cheaper too. 72 shipped off ebay. Paid like 45 for the damn Autozone special coil too. Just ordered wires, so dunno if I'm gonna order a coil right this minute. Hell, I might. I'm so tired of this shit not being right.
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accel canister yellow coil is 22. it's as good as their super coil at 40ish
autozone and advance stock both theyre hot items.
This is the coil EDIS uses:
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fperformanceparts.com%2Fperformance_parts_images%2Faccel_140018.jpg&hash=a544e760551c983192b352e9ae7353030b2edb32)
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Yeah, I guess. :P I just wish I knew it was the damn coil, then I'd happily buy a new one. It sucks going around in circles with shit. I swear, I completed my first ever DIY turbo setup Dec. 30th 08' and have been driving the car every day since and the turbo shit has worked flawlessly. Haven't touched any of it. Hell, I haven't even added any oil to the engine since then. But this ignition shit has never been right. I'd rather the bitch spit a rod out Least then I'd feel like I accomplished something. :evil:
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Yesterday I redid the wiring for the positive side of the ignition system. Now it's perfect. Has a new 12 gauge wire coming right off a new relay that splits to a 12 gauge to the coil, and a 14 gauge to the EDIS module. This seems to have made the problem worse if anything, but certainly not better. Still cuts out, misfires, etc.
Today I put my new ignition wires on. New OEM NGK's. Made no difference. Folks on the MS2E site say I should redo my input circuit for the MS, even though I don't see how that could possibly be affecting this. So I guess in a week I'm gonna try that after finals.
Or throw a match to it.
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Or ground the system.
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Or ground the system.
Please, tell me what's wrong. Far as I know it's fucking grounded. I've done everything you've said and nothing's helped yet.
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Run a large NEG to the Block, GROUND EVERYTHING ELSE TO THE BLOCK (body, EDIS, MS, etc.) YOU CANNOT HAVE VOLTAGE DIFFERENTIAL IN YOUR ELECTRONICS IF YOU EXPECT THEM TO WORK PROPERLY.
BOLT YOUR GROUNDING BAR TO THE FUCKING BLOCK AND MAKE SURE ALL CONNECTIONS ARE CLEAN AND TIGHT
THE BLOCK IS THEN GROUND
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Give up, we already tried.
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Run a large NEG to the Block, GROUND EVERYTHING ELSE TO THE BLOCK (body, EDIS, MS, etc.) YOU CANNOT HAVE VOLTAGE DIFFERENTIAL IN YOUR ELECTRONICS IF YOU EXPECT THEM TO WORK PROPERLY.
BOLT YOUR GROUNDING BAR TO THE FUCKING BLOCK AND MAKE SURE ALL CONNECTIONS ARE CLEAN AND TIGHT
THE BLOCK IS THEN GROUND
Yeah, like this?
http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee155/patsmx5/wiring4-11-0915.jpg (http://i231.photobucket.com/albums/ee155/patsmx5/wiring4-11-0915.jpg)
Did that over a week ago. Didn't make shit for difference.
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is your block bolted or wired to the engine block? Also Your EMS, Ign, and all cannot share ground wires, they can be on the same ground bolt though.
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is your block bolted or wired to the engine block? Also Your EMS, Ign, and all cannot share ground wires, they can be on the same ground bolt though.
The "ground bars" are wired to to the block. It's wired up exactly as shown in the above schematic. The ignition system is separate from everything else, as hooking it with say, the EMS, would cause lots of noise in the system.
Here's a pic of the "sensor" ground bar. The left wire is a 10 gauge wire going to the block, the others are grounds from various sensors, as shown in the schematic. It has split tubing slid over it to keep it from touching/cutting into anything. There is a separate one for the ignition system.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi231.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee155%2Fpatsmx5%2F100_0158.jpg&hash=9e082e0d0897e5a371da7230326e8cfd3ddda412)
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Keep your EMS and sensor grounds together, Isolate the IGN, Bolt the bar to the block. Also, did you crimp or solder your connections? Solder can create resistance, not to mention the way it wicks into a wire and solidifies it can create a stress point and later break. I always use the 3M crimp connectors with heat shrink much more reliable.
Start the car with a decent digital voltmeter go from the NEG battery terminal to the block, then to each device. If your problem is still grounding issue, it will show voltage. .003v is ok, problems will usually show up at .05v and above.
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Give up, we already tried.
I know JD. Got nothing better to do right now. except put my exh manifild back on the MR2. Wastegate broke off the chinky mani :( I need to boost the fucker, but been strugling with work lately, not to mention I burn shift cables every other fucking week.
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Keep your EMS and sensor grounds together, Isolate the IGN, Bolt the bar to the block. Also, did you crimp or solder your connections? Solder can create resistance, not to mention the way it wicks into a wire and solidifies it can create a stress point and later break. I always use the 3M crimp connectors with heat shrink much more reliable.
Start the car with a decent digital voltmeter go from the NEG battery terminal to the block, then to each device. If your problem is still grounding issue, it will show voltage. .003v is ok, problems will usually show up at .05v and above.
EMS and sensor grounds are together, as outlined in the schematic. Wire is bolted to block and bolted to block, as shown in the schematic. I crimped all the connectors, they're fucking perfect too. Some are the connectors with built in heat shrink shit, the others are regular but were taped over after crimping to keep them air tight. (was out of heat shrink)
JD keeps saying it's not grounded, yet refuses to comment on how it's not grounded. Either he can't read a schematic of he's just fucking with me. Either way I'm tired of chasing shit that's not the problem. I've wasted enough time and money already. If you see something fucked up, point it out.
And I've already checked the grounds with a meter like you mention, they're all .000-.001 volts when at idle.
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Start the car with a decent digital voltmeter go from the NEG battery terminal to the block then to each device. If your problem is still grounding issue, it will show voltage. .003v is ok, problems will usually show up at .05v and above.
I'm done
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Start the car with a decent digital voltmeter go from the NEG battery terminal to the block then to each device. If your problem is still grounding issue, it will show voltage. .003v is ok, problems will usually show up at .05v and above.
I'm done
I did.