:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: highroller54 on October 09, 2010, 01:07:26 PM
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how would a snowmobile or atv shock be valved compared to a performance light street car coil over? looking at some remote piggyback ressy fox or something for my car.
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I know everything
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idk how the corner weight is on a civic but i know when I rebuild my sled shocks they get 210psi of nitrogenand it works awesome. These shocks are super easy to tear apart and rebuild and i suggest doing it period. While your in there you can change the valving.
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idk how the corner weight is on a civic but i know when I rebuild my sled shocks they get 210psi of nitrogenand it works awesome. These shocks are super easy to tear apart and rebuild and i suggest doing it period. While your in there you can change the valving.
Write up or some more info. please. ;D
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idk how the corner weight is on a civic but i know when I rebuild my sled shocks they get 210psi of nitrogenand it works awesome. These shocks are super easy to tear apart and rebuild and i suggest doing it period. While your in there you can change the valving.
Write up or some more info. please. ;D
Gimme a couple weeks you will get a writeup on fox shocks and ohlens remotes. on other notes you can also use different weights of shock oils.
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idk how the corner weight is on a civic but i know when I rebuild my sled shocks they get 210psi of nitrogenand it works awesome. These shocks are super easy to tear apart and rebuild and i suggest doing it period. While your in there you can change the valving.
Write up or some more info. please. ;D
Gimme a couple weeks you will get a writeup on fox shocks and ohlens remotes. on other notes you can also use different weights of shock oils.
Now this is really peaking my interest. ;D
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moar, naow
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haha. i dont have them off yet also need to get a tank of nitrogen and grab some shock oil. there super easy to rebuild. just need to get the right measurements of the oil. you adjust the rebound by amount of pressure. 210 to a lot of people say is way to much but when your hauling ass the shocks react extremely fast and keep your skis on the ground. Idk exactly where you would set up the shocks for a car but i presume you can select the right spring rates and adjust the valving and oil thickness as well as pressure. anyone have the rough corner weight of a civic I could play with my shock calc to see what i can come up
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haha. i dont have them off yet also need to get a tank of nitrogen and grab some shock oil. there super easy to rebuild. just need to get the right measurements of the oil. you adjust the rebound by amount of pressure. 210 to a lot of people say is way to much but when your hauling ass the shocks react extremely fast and keep your skis on the ground. Idk exactly where you would set up the shocks for a car but i presume you can select the right spring rates and adjust the valving and oil thickness as well as pressure. anyone have the rough corner weight of a civic I could play with my shock calc to see what i can come up
Try 750/frt corner and 500/rr corner and see what you get. ;D
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Revalving/clocking shocks on a snowmobile is probably fine in itself, but attempting to do so on a street car without testing each shock on a shock dyno is like having a blind man tune your ecu.
Some light reading...
http://www.farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html (http://www.farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html)
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i have seen people use r1 rear shocks/springs on canti-lever locost cars. hope that helps
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Robb,
I have the eqivelent of a shock dyno. Its a computer simulation that my dad and I use for setting up our shocks for our drag sleds so I dont kill my self when i make a radar run. it comes loaded with many models of fox shocks and allows you to adjust weight and weight transfer seneraios to give you an idea on valving and how a shock will react. I am not sure how accurate it is but after setting up my sleds suspension using this software i keep my skis on the ground and the ass planted when i am making a run. I will just put some info in and see what i can come up with
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anyone have the rough corner weight of a civic
its not a civic, I will have numbers fairly soon as the motor is out right now. I'd love to run some fox's or ohlins.
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I am sure based on the fact that some sleds run them fairly inboard, that you maybe able to get them to support your project. Will need to re-valve but shouldn't be a big deal.
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Robb,
I have the eqivelent of a shock dyno. Its a computer simulation that my dad and I use for setting up our shocks for our drag sleds so I dont kill my self when i make a radar run. it comes loaded with many models of fox shocks and allows you to adjust weight and weight transfer seneraios to give you an idea on valving and how a shock will react. I am not sure how accurate it is but after setting up my sleds suspension using this software i keep my skis on the ground and the ass planted when i am making a run. I will just put some info in and see what i can come up with
Accuracy of a simulation? LOL. You do understand what shock force is correct? And how shocks react differently at different cycle speeds? Not all shocks are created equally, and just like an engine, a certain combination of parts/method does not guarantee a specific, and repeatable result every time. The purpose of a shock dyno is to TUNE an individual shock, just as a chassis dyno is used to tune a loaded drivetrain. A simulation would provide an excellent starting point to tune a shock, but I wouldn't trust it seriously on the street where the variables are significantly different than that of a snowmobile. Please read the link I provided, sir.
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is like having a blind man tune your ecu.
not good? lol
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i think as long as you use the right lever ratio youl be fine. i have seen a civic with cbr 600 rear shocks on all 4 coners
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Robb,
I have the eqivelent of a shock dyno. Its a computer simulation that my dad and I use for setting up our shocks for our drag sleds so I dont kill my self when i make a radar run. it comes loaded with many models of fox shocks and allows you to adjust weight and weight transfer seneraios to give you an idea on valving and how a shock will react. I am not sure how accurate it is but after setting up my sleds suspension using this software i keep my skis on the ground and the ass planted when i am making a run. I will just put some info in and see what i can come up with
Accuracy of a simulation? LOL. You do understand what shock force is correct? And how shocks react differently at different cycle speeds? Not all shocks are created equally, and just like an engine, a certain combination of parts/method does not guarantee a specific, and repeatable result every time. The purpose of a shock dyno is to TUNE an individual shock, just as a chassis dyno is used to tune a loaded drivetrain. A simulation would provide an excellent starting point to tune a shock, but I wouldn't trust it seriously on the street where the variables are significantly different than that of a snowmobile. Please read the link I provided, sir.
I read the included link and it was actually a good read. Hopefully this keeps all the fanboi ricers from just setting there shocks to 8 and thinking that will give better handling,
i think as long as you use the right lever ratio youl be fine. i have seen a civic with cbr 600 rear shocks on all 4 coners
I wouldnt even run a lever system. With correct spring rates and damping it should just be a set of brackets away that being said I would pry design a sleeve that would go around the shock to allow it to be fitted to the bottom wish bone. I was thinking along the lines of a peice that would fit into the wish bone then would slide onto the shock tube with slots on either side to allow the shock to bolt in also a large bolt or stud arrangement out the bottom with a jamnut to allow you to dial the shock up or down the sleve to allow for ride height changes. then bolt it down. I will draw up a rough sketch of what i am thinking. and have a bracket what would allow the shock to be bolted to the top bucket. This would allow the shock to have 2 rotational axis and I would think would the sustension would have less of a chance to bind with a setup like this. Does anyone know roughly how much suspension travel one would want for road racing. Never really studied what you would need or want. anyone have other info you would like to toss out there let me know with a pm to maybe get s setup turned and milled up.
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Revalving/clocking shocks on a snowmobile is probably fine in itself, but attempting to do so on a street car without testing each shock on a shock dyno is like having a blind man tune your ecu.
Some light reading...
http://www.farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html (http://www.farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html)
+1
Changing charge pressure or oil viscosity iis a hack that may or may not work out well for the setup it was meant to go on. It's not what you do when cross-pollinating.
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Revalving/clocking shocks on a snowmobile is probably fine in itself, but attempting to do so on a street car without testing each shock on a shock dyno is like having a blind man tune your ecu.
Some light reading...
http://www.farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html (http://www.farnorthracing.com/autocross_secrets6.html)
+1
Changing charge pressure or oil viscosity iis a hack that may or may not work out well for the setup it was meant to go on. It's not what you do when cross-pollinating.
changing shock oil nitrogen pressures and the disk stack with regards to spring rates is a hack? Sounds to me like making a sled shock work on a different application??? perhaps i am missing something here
But what do I know i have only adjusted shocks for my body weight and run 130+ mph in 1000' ft on a sled
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Robb,
I have the eqivelent of a shock dyno. Its a computer simulation that my dad and I use for setting up our shocks for our drag sleds so I dont kill my self when i make a radar run. it comes loaded with many models of fox shocks and allows you to adjust weight and weight transfer seneraios to give you an idea on valving and how a shock will react. I am not sure how accurate it is but after setting up my sleds suspension using this software i keep my skis on the ground and the ass planted when i am making a run. I will just put some info in and see what i can come up with
Accuracy of a simulation? LOL. You do understand what shock force is correct? And how shocks react differently at different cycle speeds? Not all shocks are created equally, and just like an engine, a certain combination of parts/method does not guarantee a specific, and repeatable result every time. The purpose of a shock dyno is to TUNE an individual shock, just as a chassis dyno is used to tune a loaded drivetrain. A simulation would provide an excellent starting point to tune a shock, but I wouldn't trust it seriously on the street where the variables are significantly different than that of a snowmobile. Please read the link I provided, sir.
I read the included link and it was actually a good read. Hopefully this keeps all the fanboi ricers from just setting there shocks to 8 and thinking that will give better handling,
i think as long as you use the right lever ratio youl be fine. i have seen a civic with cbr 600 rear shocks on all 4 coners
I wouldnt even run a lever system. With correct spring rates and damping it should just be a set of brackets away that being said I would pry design a sleeve that would go around the shock to allow it to be fitted to the bottom wish bone. I was thinking along the lines of a peice that would fit into the wish bone then would slide onto the shock tube with slots on either side to allow the shock to bolt in also a large bolt or stud arrangement out the bottom with a jamnut to allow you to dial the shock up or down the sleve to allow for ride height changes. then bolt it down. I will draw up a rough sketch of what i am thinking. and have a bracket what would allow the shock to be bolted to the top bucket. This would allow the shock to have 2 rotational axis and I would think would the sustension would have less of a chance to bind with a setup like this. Does anyone know roughly how much suspension travel one would want for road racing. Never really studied what you would need or want. anyone have other info you would like to toss out there let me know with a pm to maybe get s setup turned and milled up.
the shock itsself only has a 2" strok, idont think it will b enghe for a good ride on your car.
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Robb,
I have the eqivelent of a shock dyno. Its a computer simulation that my dad and I use for setting up our shocks for our drag sleds so I dont kill my self when i make a radar run. it comes loaded with many models of fox shocks and allows you to adjust weight and weight transfer seneraios to give you an idea on valving and how a shock will react. I am not sure how accurate it is but after setting up my sleds suspension using this software i keep my skis on the ground and the ass planted when i am making a run. I will just put some info in and see what i can come up with
Accuracy of a simulation? LOL. You do understand what shock force is correct? And how shocks react differently at different cycle speeds? Not all shocks are created equally, and just like an engine, a certain combination of parts/method does not guarantee a specific, and repeatable result every time. The purpose of a shock dyno is to TUNE an individual shock, just as a chassis dyno is used to tune a loaded drivetrain. A simulation would provide an excellent starting point to tune a shock, but I wouldn't trust it seriously on the street where the variables are significantly different than that of a snowmobile. Please read the link I provided, sir.
I read the included link and it was actually a good read. Hopefully this keeps all the fanboi ricers from just setting there shocks to 8 and thinking that will give better handling,
i think as long as you use the right lever ratio youl be fine. i have seen a civic with cbr 600 rear shocks on all 4 coners
I wouldnt even run a lever system. With correct spring rates and damping it should just be a set of brackets away that being said I would pry design a sleeve that would go around the shock to allow it to be fitted to the bottom wish bone. I was thinking along the lines of a peice that would fit into the wish bone then would slide onto the shock tube with slots on either side to allow the shock to bolt in also a large bolt or stud arrangement out the bottom with a jamnut to allow you to dial the shock up or down the sleve to allow for ride height changes. then bolt it down. I will draw up a rough sketch of what i am thinking. and have a bracket what would allow the shock to be bolted to the top bucket. This would allow the shock to have 2 rotational axis and I would think would the sustension would have less of a chance to bind with a setup like this. Does anyone know roughly how much suspension travel one would want for road racing. Never really studied what you would need or want. anyone have other info you would like to toss out there let me know with a pm to maybe get s setup turned and milled up.
the shock itsself only has a 2" strok, idont think it will b enghe for a good ride on your car.
what shocks only have 2" of stroke? If one was to use rear shocks out of say a polaris extra 10/12 you would def have more than 2" of stroke. my drag sled has more than 2" of stoke because I set my limiters atleast 2" into the travel and still have travel to go. If you could provide model numbers i could pry give a bit more info on the shocks in question.