:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Towdogg on October 13, 2011, 02:10:49 AM
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I paid $300
101,263 miles
a/c works
Inspected for awhile
So far I have done the
Fuel pump and sender
Heatercore
Im sure there wil be more
Plans are to get a
better rear end with disc brakes
fix up the body
5.3 v8 swap
The SS wheels were free..
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi331.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fl475%2Ftowdogg520%2FIMG_00561.jpg&hash=629c42ee5d96d8ab30c60819edea4a65b0da2217)
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You homo's don't like my truck? :o
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I hate it only because it makes me jealous. Id drive it til the wheels fell off for that price.
Hell i'd even throw a door and fender on there so the outside matched how clean the underside does.
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I sold the purple turbo civic for cash on CL.. Some kid from NY came with all the money..
And to top it off I just got my LMC catalog...
Im about to order some parts..
Thoughts on useing flux core to weld on 1/4's and rockers...... O0
I also put on a MagnaHOE 3inch weld on with 3inch pipe from the catback.. Sound OK for a 6...
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When you say 5.3, are you referring to LS motor?
If so, I say do LT1 and keep it simple. You have most of what you need for it already.
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its yours, do what you want.
with that said, i advise you license & insure it and stop.
nothing neater than a beater.
if it gets wrecked, what the fuck do you care? unless this is your only mode.
$300 for a runner/driver is a fucking score. good job mang.
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When you say 5.3, are you referring to LS motor?
If so, I say do LT1 and keep it simple. You have most of what you need for it already.
That would be the Gen3 LM7 that can be found in any 99+ chevy truck frame. The beautiful thing about those motors is that they are throwaways. Everybody either wants an LQ4 or LSx instead. They are decent motors for what they are, little more HP but less torque than the L31. For some reason the L31 and any other single-rear piece main base SBC is still worth a little more. Consider the old school hobby guys for the reason.
Whenever I move to the current generation of chevy blocks I'll be going with an LQ9 hybrid setup.
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I've been toying with the idea of a Gen3 4.8/4L60E 4X4 swap into my Jeep. They came with a variant of the NP231 so splicing the drivelines together is relatively simple. I basically swap my existing NP231's 21/23 spline input shaft with the GM 27 spline one, use it's location to determine where to locate/fluxcore fab engine/trans mounts, have a rear driveshaft cut and run my wiring. It'd net more horsepower, and fuel efficiency.
edit: Also, exhaust. I'm going to see if any SBC/LTx/LSx swaps exist semi-locally and either quiz the owner or inspect in person.
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I've been toying with the idea of a Gen3 4.8/4L60E 4X4 swap into my Jeep. They came with a variant of the NP231 so splicing the drivelines together is relatively simple. I basically swap my existing NP231's 21/23 spline input shaft with the GM 27 spline one, use it's location to determine where to locate/fluxcore fab engine/trans mounts, have a rear driveshaft cut and run my wiring. It'd net more horsepower, and fuel efficiency.
edit: Also, exhaust. I'm going to see if any SBC/LTx/LSx swaps exist semi-locally and either quiz the owner or inspect in person.
That sounds awesome. Ive only seen LT1's in jeeps havent seen anything of the LS variety.
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http://albany.craigslist.org/pts/2652580363.html
I found this.... I would want #1...
I not sure if I believe how low the miles are...
ALSO:
How the fuck do I get rid of this ABS without hacking it? Is it like an integra?
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why does anyone want to remove ABS? ive driven plenty of cars with and without and i cannot see why anyone would take it out if it was there. I get it if its broken and its easier to delete rather than replace. Is there some other purpose?
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I get it if its broken and its easier to delete rather than replace.
Laziness is why I disable it in every older GM i've ever owned.
Once it starts misbehaving it does some scary shit sometimes without warning. I've never bothered to try to figure out what's wrong, most likely something simple.
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I've got it in the Passat but it doesn't work. you stomp hard enough and they lock lol. Im terrified to fuck with it cause master cylinders will go out on these nazi sleds at higher mileage. not really trying to fuck with it if i don't have to.
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How the fuck do I get rid of this ABS without hacking it? Is it like an integra?
Pull the fuse. Thats what I did on my tahoe.
Did the same on my astro.
Was a 40 or 50 amp maxi under the hood.
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Paid $260 for 3 18inch rears and 2 17inch fronts...
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Beaner roller skate look?
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zubg!
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Ya mother fuckers....
Those Vette wheels are knock off's and Im not gonna use then on this any more... >:( FUCK YOU CHINA!!!
I went to a swap meet today at Thompson Motor Speedway in Thompson Ct and picked up some shit....
Quick ratio sterring box-$10
94 S10 Blazer door-$10
99 Firebird wheels-$100
I also picked up a rearend 4.10 posi with rear disc's-$150 From a friend..
Also on a side note I might pick up a 90-93 s10 regular cab..
That 1 will be the test dummy for boost.. 4.3 auto.. :noel:
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This thread is worthless without crusher pics.
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This thread is worthless WITH pics.