:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: crxvtec91 on November 12, 2011, 10:49:38 PM
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Im thinking about picking up one soon, what are people using? I was thinking 8 point s&w in steel, just needed it to be good enough to run high 9's.
http://www.swracecars.com/store/8-Point-Roll-Bar-OSCARItem_31=11-5057.aspx (http://www.swracecars.com/store/8-Point-Roll-Bar-OSCARItem_31=11-5057.aspx)
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I have the same one. It fits pretty damn good without much trimming. I was expecting a lot more work than it took.
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Same one I have.
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Get the shit to make it a 10 point. Hate to see you on your lid.
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I cant remember where my friend ordered his cage but it was like 150-200 for the cage and they fucked up and shipped it for free. The site said free shipping on orders over $100 except freight... This came freight.
If i find something soon as a beater. My hatch will probably get one this winter.
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Mine was $257 shipped from SW Racecars and came ups in 2 boxes. Well, the main hoop had a label on it and the rest was in a box.
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Mine was $257 shipped from SW Racecars and came ups in 2 boxes. Well, the main hoop had a label on it and the rest was in a box.
which cage did you get... 6, 8, or 10 point?
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I got the 8pt
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Mine was $257 shipped from SW Racecars and came ups in 2 boxes. Well, the main hoop had a label on it and the rest was in a box.
Freight's cheaper to a business than to a residence. Which was yours sent to?
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Residence
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FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUu
So you might save a ten spot or more shipping to a business, albeit cost to transport (fuel prices) and distance are likely to have changed.
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Get the shit to make it a 10 point. Hate to see you on your lid.
I thought about it, but most 10 points have you cut to go through the dash, not something I which to do to my mint one :?:
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Buy a shit dash for $5.
Look, my 10 point fascination is to keep trucks or high riding station wagons from driving up your hood and into the passenger compartment. If you're doing less street duty with the car, go 8 point. When you put in a cage you are pretty likely to brain yourself against it in an accident w/o a helmet, so it's really only a hardcore motherfucker streetmod.
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Buy a shit dash for $5.
Look, my 10 point fascination is to keep trucks or high riding station wagons from driving up your hood and into the passenger compartment. If you're doing less street duty with the car, go 8 point. When you put in a cage you are pretty likely to brain yourself against it in an accident w/o a helmet, so it's really only a hardcore motherfucker streetmod.
Yea not really trying to DD it at this point, so maybe 8 point it is :P
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What have you guys with cages found for bar to skull protection?
found this a few years ago
http://www.safedrives.com/products.asp?cat=105 (http://www.safedrives.com/products.asp?cat=105)
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I don't see how it's possible to hit your head on an 8pt cage unless you don't have a harness on. If you have a cage then you should have a harness and you should also have it on.
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I don't see how it's possible to hit your head on an 8pt cage unless you don't have a harness on. If you have a cage then you should have a harness and you should also have it on.
It is amazing how much you move in an accident.
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I don't see how it's possible to hit your head on an 8pt cage unless you don't have a harness on. If you have a cage then you should have a harness and you should also have it on.
It is amazing how much you move in an accident.
damn rubber neckers!!!!!
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I don't see how it's possible to hit your head on an 8pt cage unless you don't have a harness on. If you have a cage then you should have a harness and you should also have it on.
It is amazing how much you move in an accident.
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i understand that odd things happen during accidents, but when i sit in my car with the racing seat and cage, i just dont see how thats possible with the harness on. did i put my cage in wrong? lol
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i understand that odd things happen during accidents, but when i sit in my car with the racing seat and cage, i just dont see how thats possible with the harness on.
What I'm getting out of this is that the world won't be losing a bright and shining intellect.
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i dont drive my caged car on the street, so i do always wear a helmet when i drive it.
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What have you guys with cages found for bar to skull protection?
found this a few years ago
http://www.safedrives.com/products.asp?cat=105 (http://www.safedrives.com/products.asp?cat=105)
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What have you guys with cages found for bar to skull protection?
found this a few years ago
http://www.safedrives.com/products.asp?cat=105 (http://www.safedrives.com/products.asp?cat=105)
What the fuck are you quoting yourself for? Your link has like 5 different options in there. Depending on your trap speed, you most likely dont need the SFI shit unless you have a 25.5 cage and your name is Tony Palo or Chris Miller or some shit. None of that is going to save your ass from death. Thats what a helmet is for. Those pads are for helmet to cage contact. Not bare skull.
And Im with Secks for the first time in my life. LOL.
I sure as fuck couldnt touch my head on the cage once harnessed in. With the seat braced to the cage, harness attached to the floor and cage, and my cage being as far away from my head as it is, theres just no fucking way I could touch. I can barely touch if I have my helmet on, and thats barely touching the padding. Without padding, my helmet wouldnt touch the bar. And Im talking 10 point. On the halo or the door bar. The main hoop? Fuck, thats 6" behind my head. Not a chance in hell. (But I still rock padding because NHRA says I have to).
Unless youre planning on building a slow car, go with a 10 point. Or put the 8 point in, get sent home for trapping 135+, and be pissed when you have to cut your cage out, to fix it. And then let me know before you kill yourself, so I can say "I told you so". Plus, how the fuck can you be "too safe"? If I were building a race car, I would put a cage in a 12 second car. Fuck it. If I hit the wall going 110, or 150, its gonna fuckin hurt. Id rather be safe than sorry. But thats just me.
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Why do an 8pt cage? 6pt(or 5pt) is good until 9.99 or 135, then a 10pt is good for 8.50.
Do a 6 or 10, no reason to do an 8.
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I've thought about doing a 6pt. Do any of y'all have experience using expansion foam to fill voids in the uni-body(a-pillars/b-pillars/rockers)? I'm kinda wondering if the stuff would prevent collapse of the drivers compartment forward of the mainhoop...
http://www.modified.com/projectcars/0006scc_project_nissan_300zx_part_5/index.html (http://www.modified.com/projectcars/0006scc_project_nissan_300zx_part_5/index.html)
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I've thought about doing a 6pt. Do any of y'all have experience using expansion foam to fill voids in the uni-body(a-pillars/b-pillars/rockers)? I'm kinda wondering if the stuff would prevent collapse of the drivers compartment forward of the mainhoop...
http://www.modified.com/projectcars/0006scc_project_nissan_300zx_part_5/index.html (http://www.modified.com/projectcars/0006scc_project_nissan_300zx_part_5/index.html)
Seen this before in shows and magazines, but did not here of numbers of 40% increase in chassis stiffness before.
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Unless youre planning on building a slow car, go with a 10 point. Or put the 8 point in, get sent home for trapping 135+, and be pissed when you have to cut your cage out, to fix it. And then let me know before you kill yourself, so I can say "I told you so". Plus, how the fuck can you be "too safe"? If I were building a race car, I would put a cage in a 12 second car. Fuck it. If I hit the wall going 110, or 150, its gonna fuckin hurt. Id rather be safe than sorry. But thats just me.
So by that logic why didn't you just build an SFI 25.3 spec?
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I didn't see an option on the SW site for a 6pt or that's what I would have done. I didnt really plan to put the other 2 tubes in, but I had them if I ever needed them.
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I've thought about doing a 6pt. Do any of y'all have experience using expansion foam to fill voids in the uni-body(a-pillars/b-pillars/rockers)? I'm kinda wondering if the stuff would prevent collapse of the drivers compartment forward of the mainhoop...
http://www.modified.com/projectcars/0006scc_project_nissan_300zx_part_5/index.html (http://www.modified.com/projectcars/0006scc_project_nissan_300zx_part_5/index.html)
Seen this before in shows and magazines, but did not here of numbers of 40% increase in chassis stiffness before.
That is interesting, I have used hardware foam like the door and window sealer stuff, but it was for sound deadening in vehicles with high road noise. Never would have though about it adding rigidity. Despite what they say about the hardware stuff not curing, I can tell you first hand it does. However I doubt it is anywhere near as dense.
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Same one I have.
8pt. S&W, went in pretty stress free.
(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/photos-ak-snc1/v2197/10/66/1019003721/n1019003721_312338_7530.jpg)
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What the fuck are you quoting yourself for? Your link has like 5 different options in there.
Your an idiot
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And youre a faggot. Point made.
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Unless youre planning on building a slow car, go with a 10 point. Or put the 8 point in, get sent home for trapping 135+, and be pissed when you have to cut your cage out, to fix it. And then let me know before you kill yourself, so I can say "I told you so". Plus, how the fuck can you be "too safe"? If I were building a race car, I would put a cage in a 12 second car. Fuck it. If I hit the wall going 110, or 150, its gonna fuckin hurt. Id rather be safe than sorry. But thats just me.
So by that logic why didn't you just build an SFI 25.3 spec?
Cost comes to mind...
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Unless youre planning on building a slow car, go with a 10 point. Or put the 8 point in, get sent home for trapping 135+, and be pissed when you have to cut your cage out, to fix it. And then let me know before you kill yourself, so I can say "I told you so". Plus, how the fuck can you be "too safe"? If I were building a race car, I would put a cage in a 12 second car. Fuck it. If I hit the wall going 110, or 150, its gonna fuckin hurt. Id rather be safe than sorry. But thats just me.
So by that logic why didn't you just build an SFI 25.3 spec?
Cost comes to mind...
"[Can't be too safe]"... So there is a point of where your safety has a cost. Which is my point, obviously others have that point as well, just not at the same point as yours.
I'm putting a 25.2 cage in something that MAY one day run 8.50's, why? Because I want the added safety factor, and two because I can use all the extra chassis rigidity I can get, which will also help keep me out of the wall. If it means an extra year building so be it.
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FWIW materials for an SFI spec cage are only a couple hundred more, but the time fitting and installing is the killer.
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Yea, its more so, if I went 25.5 or something similar, it shouldnt be a prebent, off the shelf kit. And I dont have a pipe bender, nor the experience to do that shit myself. Where as, S&W and the other similar companies make a 10 point vs. an 8 point cage, and the cost is about 100 bucks difference. And it really isnt that much more work. So why half ass it? Itll actually cost MORE money to upgrade and redo the whole thing.