:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Engine Management => Topic started by: fuse on November 24, 2011, 02:36:29 AM
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Ok so ya this is dumb ::). Its a gsr forged internals 12.5 compression ratio on e85 runs great with no spray but overheats with spray about 240-260 after a 3rd gear pull. My qestion is can I tame this motor with a radiator, fans, cold thermostat or should I just ditch the spray or down the shot?
Im going down 4 degrees with the shot on and afrs hold 12ish.
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how are the plugs? any coolant pushing out?
Been seeing a rash of cracked heads causing water temp issues.
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I'd like to see a good pic of the plugs. This is hopefully a stupid question but, does it have head studs?
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how are the plugs? any coolant pushing out?
Been seeing a rash of cracked heads causing water temp issues.
Not loosing any coolant or smoking. It never pegs red just gets close.
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I'd like to see a good pic of the plugs. This is hopefully a stupid question but, does it have head studs?
I will try to snag a pick they are ngks 7s and we cut the ground strap, gaped at .022. No it dose not have head studs just stock bolts..............ya I know, I know not by my choice.
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Nothing wrong with stock bolts, unless something didn't go back together clean.
Sounds like a headgasket.
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That sounds like the power level where you start considering head studs.
I'm thinking headgasket too.... but I guess for different reasons
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It sounds to me like you need to pull more timing out of it. Pull a few more degree's out like 4 more and fatten it up a little more be heavy handed be a man.
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Pull more out below 6K, target 11.5:1 gasoline AFRs. If you did that lean and lots of timing bullshit then you do need to take more out across the board.
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Pull more out below 6K, target 11.5:1 gasoline AFRs. If you did that lean and lots of timing bullshit then you do need to take more out across the board.
See Joseph I give good advice don't I. Nitrous cars need more timing pulled at lower rpms then high so get serious about it from 3500 up. and fade it as you get closer to redline think of it as step retard while making a turbo map but take more down low and less up high.
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To break this down even more.
The nitrous has more time to fill the cylinders at lower rpms, thats why nitrous makes crazy tq. IN theory a cylinder will get twice as much nitrous at 4k rpms than at 8k. A jet rated at a 100 shot might make 200tq in the lower rpm range.
More nitrous=less timing. More nitrous at lower rpms= less timing in the lower end.
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Cool good advice. The kit instructions are very low quality and just said pull 2 out for every 50 shot. The pulling more at low end makes sense. :noel: The car is still running fine and will not over heat with the shot off but is loosing coolant. Going to swap out the head gasket, swap to studs and change the thermostat just for fun.
I noticed the fuel curve dropping at higher rpms so ya the shot is stronger at lower rpm didn't think much of it till now and yes my wide band is still set up for gasoline its easier for me will shot for 11.5 next run.
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Ya the gasket it done the bolts where loose probably due to some stretch.
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I noticed the fuel curve dropping at higher rpms
That fuel curve should give you a very rough idea of how much timing to pull down low. The percent increase in fuel correlates closely to how much more oxygen (no2) is making it into the cylinders, meaning needs that much less timing.
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Ya the gasket it done the bolts where loose probably due to some stretch.
Probably due to not running a tap down into the block, lubing the bolts properly, and torquing the bolts in stages.
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Probably due to not running a tap down into the block, lubing the bolts properly, and torquing the bolts in stages.
I don't know didn't put it together.
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Ya the gasket it done the bolts where loose probably due to some stretch.
Probably due to not running a tap down into the block, lubing the bolts properly, and torquing the bolts in stages.
JD, any hints as to where to get the proper length tap to get the job done? I would ASSume a bottoming tap would be best. Those fuckers get pretty damn expensive for the oddball M11 X 1.5 (I think) size.
I guess one could use an old head bolt, cut some flutes into it, and clean the threads. I suspect that the fit is probably not close enough to really get them cleaned out properly.
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I used a regular tap on a few, kept the deck facing the floor on the stand and sprayed the holes out alternately with lube and with carb cleaner. I'm sure there was a speck or five of garbage caught at the bottom of the hole when I was done. but since I'm not building 800+ whp engines I don't care a whole lot.
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I take a stock head bolt n cut flutes into it with a whiz wheel. There's your long bottoming tap to cleanup threads...
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Ya the gasket it done the bolts where loose probably due to some stretch.
Probably due to not running a tap down into the block, lubing the bolts properly, and torquing the bolts in stages.
JD, any hints as to where to get the proper length tap to get the job done? I would ASSume a bottoming tap would be best. Those fuckers get pretty damn expensive for the oddball M11 X 1.5 (I think) size.
I guess one could use an old head bolt, cut some flutes into it, and clean the threads. I suspect that the fit is probably not close enough to really get them cleaned out properly.
oops... what he said.
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I take a stock head bolt n cut flutes into it with a whiz wheel. There's your long bottoming tap to cleanup threads...
I also find a test tube brush on steroids works well. The kind that you can barely flex & used for plumbing is what you want.
Cut off the loop at the end, clamp into your power drill, spray in degreaser (simple green), then work that hole in reverse like you're Spiker.
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Ok got studs and a new hg and its working fine. Now it has a 6al msd box in it also. Will the 6al throw the ignition timing off? Honestly never used any ignition box in my life I hear its a somewhat bad idea on a honda.
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The MSD just isnt necessary. Especially at that power level.
Oh, and fuck wasting money on carb cleaner and WD40 to get the debris out of head bolt holes. Pressure washer, followed by compressed air, with a little WD40 shot all over the place...
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MSD analog box is always a bad idea.
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MSD analog box is always a bad idea.
I know its not cool but what dose it do retard the timing due some kind of communication lag? I know its not good due to emp but what are all the down sides on top of that?
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MSD analog box is always a bad idea.
I know its not cool but what dose it do retard the timing due some kind of communication lag? I know its not good due to emp but what are all the down sides on top of that?
The lag (it's called slew rate) can vary; the analog boxes are designed to work, and when they don't you can't predict how they will act or how long they act that way before deteriorating. I've been through a couple setups where I make as much power without an MSD as I do with an MSD.
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ONLY reason to run a 6AL box is to cut spark before cutting fuel.
Mine never gave me any trouble.
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i had a 6al way back when, i went thru 2 and then went back to stock, seems there very sensative to water. which is fine, but most are mounted in the engine bay somewhere which leaves them vulnerable.
After washing engine bay twice over the course of a couple years the car wouldnt start after i was done each time, it was the msd box both times...