:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Lowerit on December 07, 2011, 11:12:59 PM
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http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_1109_stock_gm_ls_engine_big_bang_theory/ (http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/hrdp_1109_stock_gm_ls_engine_big_bang_theory/)
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Fuck that's cool.
Aluminum heads are a wonderful thing.. I wish I could find one for my Jeep that didn't cost $2k. I could probably have one machined for that much.
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old news
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old news
+1 but still a good read with those motors getting cheaper by the day.
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Fuck that's cool.
Aluminum heads are a wonderful thing.. I wish I could find one for my Jeep that didn't cost $2k. I could probably have one machined for that much.
If you can keep the iron HO head cool, it's a beautiful thing.
For $1200-1500 and some hustle you can swap in an LR5 or LM7, interfaced with your NP231, and running.
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Interesting that all they did was regap the rings. I loved the line "the old rings cleaned up OKAY. We reused them."
Fuck building a crazy Honda. I'll just make my old bird the unholy terror that I can legally drive w/o a seatbelt.
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This article has me torn between a 6.0L and 6bt for my 90 Silverado.
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This article has me torn between a 6.0L and 6bt for my 90 Silverado.
The 6bt will make more on pump fuel, and will get better mileage doing it.
The 6L will make more power overall (if you take it that far), and will be cheaper to get there.
I would be very torn as well, as they are my two favorite current budget platforms.
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This article has me torn between a 6.0L and 6bt for my 90 Silverado.
The 6bt will make more on pump fuel, and will get better mileage doing it.
The 6L will make more power overall (if you take it that far), and will be cheaper to get there.
I would be very torn as well, as they are my two favorite current budget platforms.
My yukon needs boost :evil:
I wonder if the 6.0L will make 1000hp on stock short block :noel:
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This article has me torn between a 6.0L and 6bt for my 90 Silverado.
The 6bt will make more on pump fuel, and will get better mileage doing it.
The 6L will make more power overall (if you take it that far), and will be cheaper to get there.
I would be very torn as well, as they are my two favorite current budget platforms.
My yukon needs boost :evil:
I wonder if the 6.0L will make 1000hp on stock short block :noel:
It may or it may not kind of a craps shoot, as in the article you should loosen up the ring gaps. If you are in that far, I would spend the extra couple dollars and put ARP con rod bolts in too.
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The article basically gave the motor all the bolt-ons possible. Otherwise they'd be shoving so much shit in there to get an extra HP that it probably would have taken it out earlier. They just wanted to see how well the rods/pistons/crank fared as the weakest link. They probably spent $3500+ on the parts & motor, but people spend 2x that on a stock ITR swap that makes 1/5 the power.
We already know a 6L can last a while at 600whp, if mr chevelle's motor is any indication. At that point you'll want to spend more money elsewhere before making more power.
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This article has me torn between a 6.0L and 6bt for my 90 Silverado.
The 6bt will make more on pump fuel, and will get better mileage doing it.
The 6L will make more power overall (if you take it that far), and will be cheaper to get there.
I would be very torn as well, as they are my two favorite current budget platforms.
I don't have plans of getting too crazy. If I go 6.0L, I think stock with bolt ons power will be fine. If I go 6bt, I'll just raise boost to get 300hp and call it a day. This truck is not a toy in any sense of the word. It does 70% of its driving with a car trailer attached and the other 30% to and from home depot. For now it has a 270hp crate 350 with the stock TBI and a half assed tune. I think I'll actually finish the tune this weekend, a year of shitty driving has gotten old.
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I'd probably budget rig a truck motor, Pro Products IM and shelf cam with a single streetable snail.
Kaszowski linked me a while back to a Garrett (or Precision?) 76mm vs CXRacing china 76mm comparo. IIRC at the 700whp level the CX unit took 4 psi more to make the same power, and the IATs were something like 20-30 deg F higher. And since we're touching on the subject, if you're wondering why Hotrod chose a china turbo... if the motor blows chunks out the exhaust it kills the turbo(s). CX probably donated those, vs having to purchase...
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This article has me torn between a 6.0L and 6bt for my 90 Silverado.
The 6bt will make more on pump fuel, and will get better mileage doing it.
The 6L will make more power overall (if you take it that far), and will be cheaper to get there.
I would be very torn as well, as they are my two favorite current budget platforms.
I don't have plans of getting too crazy. If I go 6.0L, I think stock with bolt ons power will be fine. If I go 6bt, I'll just raise boost to get 300hp and call it a day. This truck is not a toy in any sense of the word. It does 70% of its driving with a car trailer attached and the other 30% to and from home depot. For now it has a 270hp crate 350 with the stock TBI and a half assed tune. I think I'll actually finish the tune this weekend, a year of shitty driving has gotten old.
300hp P7100 6bt is just free pump mods. Only thing I would recommend buying is a 4k gov spring kit, but a washer mod 3k kit would get you there for free as well. In a half ton I would suspect you should get 22-24mpg on the highway out of it. I get 18-19mpg on the highway hand calculated in my dually.
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Yea, the small amount of research I have done tells me I should get everything I want out of the 6bt for very little cash..... after the initial engine/tranny investment.
The swaps seem very comparable cost wise, but the 6.0l has the added benefit of getting fuel everywhere, but at a slight loss of mpg I'm sure. Then again, the efi needed to run the 6.0 might kill me where with the 6bt I will just need to control the glow plugs.
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No glowplugs on 6bt's there is a grid heater, and it is soleniod. Living in Florida I doubt you would ever use it anyway, Trevor72 lives in Kamloops here in Canada and doesn't have one in his truck. The only day he has had an issue was when he came to visit me and it went down to -38 that night. Where he is it gets down to 0F fairly regularly and he has never had an issue starting his truck.
For you it should be a one wire to lift the fuel plunger, and one wire for the starter, and one wire for the alternator.
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I am quite the diesel noob, but what actually starts the combustion process then? I was always under the impression glow plugs lit it off at first, the it ran on its own after that.
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I am quite the diesel noob, but what actually starts the combustion process then? I was always under the impression glow plugs lit it off at first, the it ran on its own after that.
Glow plugs are only used to warm up the charge to make it easier to auto ignite.
No spark :noel:
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It is the 18:1 CR that lights it off. It heats the air nice and hot compressing it that much, then spray in a fine mist of diesel at ~5000psi (for the p7100) and you get combustion.
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I need more 6Bt in my life.
:(
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Kaszowski linked me a while back to a Garrett (or Precision?) 76mm vs CXRacing china 76mm comparo. IIRC at the 700whp level the CX unit took 4 psi more to make the same power, and the IATs were something like 20-30 deg F higher. And since we're touching on the subject, if you're wondering why Hotrod chose a china turbo... if the motor blows chunks out the exhaust it kills the turbo(s). CX probably donated those, vs having to purchase...
I've just been reading about it here:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_1105_592hp_46l_2v_motor_for_2298/custom_air_to_water_intercooler.html# (http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_1105_592hp_46l_2v_motor_for_2298/custom_air_to_water_intercooler.html#)
On another note, why not a Holset? They're easily found with a large enough hotside, can be found for much less than a garrett or precision.
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Kaszowski linked me a while back to a Garrett (or Precision?) 76mm vs CXRacing china 76mm comparo. IIRC at the 700whp level the CX unit took 4 psi more to make the same power, and the IATs were something like 20-30 deg F higher. And since we're touching on the subject, if you're wondering why Hotrod chose a china turbo... if the motor blows chunks out the exhaust it kills the turbo(s). CX probably donated those, vs having to purchase...
I've just been reading about it here:
http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_1105_592hp_46l_2v_motor_for_2298/custom_air_to_water_intercooler.html# (http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/engine/hrdp_1105_592hp_46l_2v_motor_for_2298/custom_air_to_water_intercooler.html#)
On another note, why not a Holset? They're easily found with a large enough hotside, can be found for much less than a garrett or precision.
In that hotrod comparison, it isn't apples to apples. The precision unit has a larger turbine wheel, larger A/R, and larger flange according to the article. Thus making it a more efficient turbo for relative boost. I still doubt the cdm turbo is fully as good as the precision, but they are closer then what we are lead to believe in this article.
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It is the 18:1 CR that lights it off. It heats the air nice and hot compressing it that much, then spray in a fine mist of diesel at ~5000psi (for the p7100) and you get combustion.
I guess I didn't realize it would get that hot. I guess with the fuel being atomized so much it doesn't take a lot to ignite. I'm really thinking the 6bt is a better swap for my needs. 4" exhaust and no muffler would sound real nice too.
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I'd probably budget rig a truck motor, Pro Products IM and shelf cam with a single streetable snail.
Kaszowski linked me a while back to a Garrett (or Precision?) 76mm vs CXRacing china 76mm comparo. IIRC at the 700whp level the CX unit took 4 psi more to make the same power, and the IATs were something like 20-30 deg F higher. And since we're touching on the subject, if you're wondering why Hotrod chose a china turbo... if the motor blows chunks out the exhaust it kills the turbo(s). CX probably donated those, vs having to purchase...
Irish Fuck!
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I need more 6Bt in my life.
:(
Everyone does. Most have no idea.
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Can you diesel faggots get your own thread?
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Can you diesel faggots get your own thread?
both engines could go into my truck and be useful, its relevant.
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Can you diesel faggots get your own thread?
How about you start your own thread about Ford boat anchors.
;DDD
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Can you diesel faggots get your own thread?
How about you start your own thread about Ford boat anchors.
;DDD
You mean my dream of installing Duratechs in place of inferior offerings by non-Ford automakers?
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Can you diesel faggots get your own thread?
How about you start your own thread about Ford boat anchors.
;DDD
You mean my dream of installing Duratechs in place of inferior offerings by non-Ford automakers?
You really are a masochist aren't you?
Ecobosst > Duracrap.
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Can you diesel faggots get your own thread?
How about you start your own thread about Ford boat anchors.
;DDD
You mean my dream of installing Duratechs in place of inferior offerings by non-Ford automakers?
You really are a masochist aren't you?
Ecobosst > Duracrap.
Much like I don't want to play with 480 voltage because I am a clumsy motherfucker, I have no desire to dick around with direct injection. Cup my balls gently and call me Mr. Rogers?
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Can you diesel faggots get your own thread?
How about you start your own thread about Ford boat anchors.
;DDD
You mean my dream of installing Duratechs in place of inferior offerings by non-Ford automakers?
You really are a masochist aren't you?
Ecobosst > Duracrap.
Much like I don't want to play with 480 voltage because I am a clumsy motherfucker, I have no desire to dick around with direct injection. Cup my balls gently and call me Mr. Rogers?
What, not a fan of arc flash?
I hate working on OEM Duracrap installations. They do seem to run pretty well though.
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old news