:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Engine Management => Topic started by: crxvtec91 on December 17, 2011, 06:57:11 PM
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I look around on pgmfi but cant seem to find a really good write up. Helping a friend boost his 95 accord and havent played with any ems since uberdata :?:
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There's a good one on the xenoshit site... :P
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its simple, what do you want to know?
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Talk to me about battery offset and injector offset? How do you know what to enter?
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i personally, check the ohms of the injectors and pick one in the list that is the closest to size and ohms. after tuning, then i add electrical loads and change the battery offsets depending on how the loads affect the tune
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Tune idle region. Note battery voltage. Turn on high beams and blower motor to high... there will always be a momentary dip from the sudden electrical load, but it stabilizes after a second and you not how far the AFR has swung and the new battery voltage. Make changes based on that.
Also, log battery voltage during a pull, if the voltage drops more than 3-4 tenths across the pull you might want to consider replacing the alternator. If it drops an entire volt or more, or drops inconsistently, you'll find the way the engine runs varying from pull to pull. There is no way to band aid this, or tune around it.
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For those w/o fast logging, you can also disconnect the alternator. Tune it, then run for a short time w/o alt and adjust the batt offsets so the tune gets back in line. Then do some math and fill in the cells between those voltages. It's never linear, but you'll be very close, and cold-start offsets will be very close.
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http://www.acuravigorclub.com/Timely-Topics/Timely1201.htm (http://www.acuravigorclub.com/Timely-Topics/Timely1201.htm)
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It's a shame the charging system doesn't really work like that.
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Any tips for setting up on a new car?
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Alter whatever you need to with regard to MAP sensor and injectors and conservative ignition timing, get the car started up and warmed up. Get it idling, set ignition timing, further tweak idling as needed, start dialing the AFRs in part throttle and then under boost (where applicable). Play with timing on dyno, or in a loaded environment.
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Is a home made det can worth the time to make?
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I have never used a detcan and I have tuned plenty of 400+whp DD cars with crome on the street(no dyno), am I a smart person or lucky?
One thing I have always wondered is if there is a way to lock timing or simulate a timing lock with Crome. I like that about Neptune that I can lock timing at 16° to set the distributor.
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Is a home made det can worth the time to make?
For street tuning, yes yes yes.
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Lock timing with a paperclip in the cel connector... no?
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Not all cars I tune have them. I guess it's part of some mad tyte wire tuck to get rid of them. These are the same people who have their IAT sensor plugged in but laying on the floor inside the car.
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I can't recall what pin it is, but just jump that pin inside the ecu to ground (or is it +12v).
Do people actually leave their IAT's like that?
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2 out of every 5 cars I tune have the IAT sensor inside the car. So far only one supercharged Gsr had a problem, but there was also some questionable work done to the car before I tuned it. I just tune super conservative with the sensor in the car. I figure the intake temp will change somewhat similar to cabin temp so it should sorta work out. Even though the temps aren't the same, they should change in something kind of proportional.
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I'd refuse to tune the car.
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One thing I have always wondered is if there is a way to lock timing or simulate a timing lock with Crome. I like that about Neptune that I can lock timing at 16° to set the distributor.
Not to tread jack but In crome gold you can lock 16. Back on topic go to xenocron or moates they both have some what good write ups on crome or just open the crome help menu. Some times it dose not work you have to use the crome help in the folder.