:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: chris on December 22, 2011, 05:30:26 PM
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http://cms.skunk2.com/id/769/74mm-B-Series-Throttle-Body-Black-Series/ (http://cms.skunk2.com/id/769/74mm-B-Series-Throttle-Body-Black-Series/)
That size seems familiar. Either way considering I have sold a total of 2 throttle bodies this year I could careless.
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FUCK SK2!
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There pro cams work good and they choose the right size throttle body to produce
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That is a nice looking part, what does it retail for?
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they sell for like 350
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they sell for like 350
LOL!
I'd much rather buy one from you.
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I dont even sell them anymore I sold what I had and never bothered getting more since they were selling horrible etc. Only thing I can do is taper bore other brands now
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There pro cams break good and they choose the right size throttle body to produce
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PBT for me anyday
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There pro cams break good and they choose the right size throttle body to produce
Yeah I am still waiting on mine to break ad or destroy the rocker pads. The sleeves ought to blow out pretty soon too.
Anyone want to start a deadpool?
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There pro cams break good and they choose the right size throttle body to produce
Yeah I am still waiting on mine to break ad or destroy the rocker pads. The sleeves ought to blow out pretty soon too.
Anyone want to start a deadpool?
What are the particulars? :noel:
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They make good power but I wouldnt have the balls to run them in my personal stuff. Can anyone make a cam that doesnt break for a honda?
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They make good power but I wouldnt have the balls to run them in my personal stuff. Can anyone make a cam that doesnt break for a honda?
colt or web?
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BCrower cams don't break, but their valvetrain is sketchy. The turbo cams are snake oil but I bet the entry levelNA cams might work well in a really hot turbo car.. had a bad experience with the stage 2's on the BRMS car, but did a 12.5+ CR turbo car with them the other day and that setup liked them.
Of all the Brand Name shelf cams I really like Buddy Club, pretty much just NA fare but they do a really good job.
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They make good power but I wouldnt have the balls to run them in my personal stuff. Can anyone make a cam that doesnt break for a honda?
colt or web?
Hickmans 330 whp big h series all motor build lost a valve due to web cams going flat. Have seen my fair share of web cams go flat.
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Just curious if they were using high-zinc oil, or a ZDDT additive. The engine builder I know recommends half a bottle of GM's EOS for skank2 cams, and I just talked to John at Delta who said something similar. Most API oil now has a max of 900ppm, or 9%. You really want 11-19%, but more than that and it can actually hurt the iron in the cam & motor.
Flat tappet motors have this problem if the zinc isn't there. Some won't last a thousand miles w/o enough zinc.
I say you nogs just use Bisi cams. They last forever and make the mostest powar!
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I say you nogs just use Bisi cams. They last forever and make the mostest powar!
So your saying Bisi's magic ams are fortified w/ zinc already? :noel:
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Well the motor went from a oem type s cam that we dynoed the motor/ran track events all of the west coast never missed a beat. One dyno session/one event in the finals mind you and the cams went flat trashing a motor that was bulletproof before the web cams.Motor dropped a valve from the flat cams/self destruction. We did the same thing spiker did and welded the hole in the block. Same thing happened years earlier with a b20vtec running type r oem cams. Wanted a little more power went to some webs and same result.
Now the mild web regrinds we always had good results with. The hard welded big cams tried 2 sets and they ruined motors.
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There pro cams break good and they choose the right size throttle body to produce
Yeah I am still waiting on mine to break ad or destroy the rocker pads. The sleeves ought to blow out pretty soon too.
Anyone want to start a deadpool?
What are the particulars? :noel:
See Leed's NA B20VTAK build thread. Pretty much the same thing.
Just a faggot assed 2 liter naturally asphyxiated motor in the daily driven ED. People say the cams will go flat, ruin the rocker pads, and that 84.5 mm stock B20 sleeves are gonna crack.
4K miles and counting so far.
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I've a couple 290-310whp B20x, uncorrected numbers, roaming around. Only B16 split sleeves, IMO.
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I've a couple 290-310whp B20x, uncorrected numbers, roaming around. Only B16 split sleeves, IMO.
Nah, the massive RPM that I have to turn because of the VTEC head will kill the sleeves. Combine that with the super aggressive Junk2 cams and I will have to spin it to 10K to make any power.
::)
Loads of sarcasm.
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RPM affects harmonics, but you can make less sleeve splitting torque while making more overall power if you have a set of cams and can spin to 8-8.5K. *shrug*
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RPM affects harmonics, but you can make less sleeve splitting torque while making more overall power if you have a set of cams and can spin to 8-8.5K. *shrug*
The whole sleeves cracking and RPM thing is kind of an inside joke per se. I have a friend that thinks that B20 sleeves are made of glass. While they certainly aren't super strong, they don't seem to crack if you breath on them wrong. Maybe I am wrong.
It's an NA 2.0 liter inline four. I don't think there is such a thing as sleeve splitting torque.
I mean, all of that side loading from the shittry R/S ratio surly puts undue strain on the cylinder walls.
::)
There is a super nice sleeved 84 mm B18C block for sale locally. Too bad I don't have the cash to pick it up for a future build.
;DDD
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Your estimation of B20 sleeve strength is correct.