:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: HiProfile on December 30, 2011, 07:43:39 PM
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This has been bugging me to no end. It was fine, then one day started pulling. The wheel will re-center itself a few degrees left, or pull against me if I keep it straight.
So far I've:
Swapped tires from my del sol
Put in new axles
Checked the caliper slides for sticking (lubed everything)
Checked ball joint, tie-rod, and wheel bearing play
Made sure tie-rods use the same amount of thread per side
Checked the rack for autonomous movement
Checked alignment, also tried adjusting both tie-rods for more toe-in and out
The only prob I can think of is the caliper piston isn't retracting (collapsed hose or bad prop valve?), or the brakes are just shot. They still have lots of meat on them, and the rotors are smooth. FYI I put on a GSR rack with low miles months before it started doing this.
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Do a string alignment on it.
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All I read was the title. It just wants to join in on some NASCAR action.
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Do a string alignment on it.
That's the next step. The last one was done only a few months ago.
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go to schwab and have the alignment checked they dont charge for it and give you a print out of whats goin on.
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go to schwab and have the alignment checked they dont charge for it and give you a print out of whats goin on.
Good call!
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LCA, bent or bad bushing, will show up on caster measurement
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^^^ true I do this shit all day long (work for schwab)
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If you have a ir temp. gun you can go for a ride n measure the differential between the brakes left to right... Just to see if you have a sticking caliper.
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Put it on jack stands pop it in gear spin the wheels, back to neutral, get out and see if one wheel stops significantly sooner than the other.
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Thats the thing, it's intermittent. If I hadn't tried it a few times, then running/stopping in 2nd gear, it would have seemed fine. But once in a while the left seemed to drag more (say 1.5 turns vs 2.5 turns).
How often do pistons get sticky (not floating pins) vs brake hoses collapsing? I've never really heard of Honda hoses or prop valves being the problem.
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Are you sure it's not just the ruts in the pavement? My wheels on my teg are light and tend to follow the groove in the pavement even if they aren't very deep... It's going left and right without notice sometimes.
On concrete roads it's going straight since there's no groove.
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ruts do make a difference have had customer come back and say it still pulls. W e have them go down the street to where it was recently paved and they drive straight every time.
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^^^ true I do this shit all day long (work for schwab)
which one? i need my daily aligned. i'd rather have a nog do it. i'm in puyallup.
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^^^ true I do this shit all day long (work for schwab)
which one? i need my daily aligned. i'd rather have a nog do it.
X2
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yelm. Old people out there got money for days. it amayses (cant spell) me how much people pay for shit and almost all them cash.
if you have aftermarket adjustment shit on your car (civic integra) I can align it. If not all I can do is set toe.
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This is what happens when I take your car out for joyrides.
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Goddamnit! Is THAT why my shift lever smells so weird now?
It's not ruts, I've had cars with lots of toe-in and out and know what ruts do. They're also the same roads, even some freshly paved roads. It's just bugging me since it seems to change it's symptoms. Sometimes it will seem like a ball joint, sometimes it will pull while braking and not on accel (sometimes only when cruising), sometimes it will not pull at all, sometimes it will weave (pull for a few secs, not pull for a few secs).
I've had bad ball joints and bad tie-rod ends, those were all easy to tell. This case is freaking retarded.
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Goddamnit! Is THAT why my shift lever smells so weird now?
It's not ruts, I've had cars with lots of toe-in and out and know what ruts do. They're also the same roads, even some freshly paved roads. It's just bugging me since it seems to change it's symptoms. Sometimes it will seem like a ball joint, sometimes it will pull while braking and not on accel (sometimes only when cruising), sometimes it will not pull at all, sometimes it will weave (pull for a few secs, not pull for a few secs).
I've had bad ball joints and bad tie-rod ends, those were all easy to tell. This case is freaking retarded.
Look at your tires and see if there is any where on the inside of the tire like feathering.
If the front tires look perfect then look at the back, probably the corner farthest from your suspected issue.
I had similar issues a while back and had stiff side wall tires.
Check the pressures and the rear driver was at like 10psi, while the rest were at 32psi. cold.
If all that checks out maybe look at your trailing arm bushing in the rear.
If it is completely worn out, there is no way can align your car correctly. :noel:
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tire could be seperated also. The belts brake inside and you can't tell unless you jack it up and spin it or take off and roll it.
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massive torque steer......oh wait, it is a Honda, no torque to be had.
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The tires were changed to known-good tires, they're not the issue.
Trailing arm bushing is a good idea. The beaners before me swapped in drum brakes, and the car was slammed to hell. I recall them looking bad, just never had that be the problem.
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The beaners before me swapped in drum brakes, and the car was slammed to hell. I recall them looking bad, just never had that be the problem.
Now thats just funny. does the brake pedal feel strange? normally a sticking caliper the pedal will return then when you hit it it would be nothing then hit a rock. I would almost bet a bad control arm bushing that when it gets hit just right collapses. I had a rear compensator arm come loose and i can tell you first hand if the rear was toeing in or out you def wouldnt feel like the front end was pulling you would be more worried about smacking the ass of the car on the concrete wall that has suddenly become really close.
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Like I said, all the symptoms are conflicting.
The biggest clue I might have is it instantly returns to pulling. It's almost like the steering wheel wasn't set straight (it was), and if you snap it right and let go it snaps back. If you snap it left, it stays turning left. It also turns the wheel a hair left over each bump until it reaches it's normal pulling angle/spot.
The rack's tie rods have the same thread length exposed, so everything is centered. It could be a bushing, but I won't be screwing with it until it warms up. I already have a full poly bushing kit for it.