:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: imburne on January 06, 2012, 01:46:45 AM
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Wife's driving home in the crv and she says it feels like crap right off the bat. Drives it 15 miles and it breaks down at a stop sign. So I tow it home and check for spark which there's none at the wires. Took the dizzy cap off and turned over the engine to move the rotor to where I can remove it and I notice it didn't move. Has about 160k miles and don't know when the belt was changed last.. Think it snapped? Any ideas? Will look at it tomorrow in the sun
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Screw fell out or broke off that holds rotor on? Or your belt snapped. I bet water pump bearing failed and snapped belt.
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Screw fell out or broke off that holds rotor on? Or your belt snapped. I bet water pump bearing failed and snapped belt.
The newer dizzys have a flat spot on them so even if the rotor screw falls out like the do on crx dizzys they still turn. sounds like to snapped a t belt or broke a cam. Pull the dizzy off and watch the cam just in case the dizzys wobble pin fell out.
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Screw fell out or broke off that holds rotor on? Or your belt snapped. I bet water pump bearing failed and snapped belt.
The screw is fine but the rotor did not turn at all after cranking. What your saying is probably dead on as I was hearing a intermittent grinding sound right at start up cranking.
So what's the damage I will possibly be revealing? Bent valves, water pump..
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take t-belt covers off check if belt is still there
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Ive never snapped a T-Belt or tried cranking a car with a broken on, but would it even turn over? Wouldnt the belt get jammed up or something? Maybe the cam broke, or the teeth for the distributor? Pull the distributor off.
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Sounds like a broken belt, or in some super odd rare case a broken cam. I'm leaning towards belt.
If that's the case you gotta pull the head, replace any bent valves. Then new belt, tensioner, water pump, crank and cam seals. If it was idling when the belt broke you have a .01% chance that nothing internally is bent. I had a neon loose the belt at idle once and it was fine.
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The first time I broke my belt on my b18a1 I was at idle and only replaced it and it ran fine. Nothing else was broken. I even tried to restart multiple times.
Second time I was at 7k rpm (a bit too hard downshift) and everything was also fine after I changed it.
If my chances were ".01% that nothing was bent" then maybe I should try to jump off the empire state building and have a chance to survive when I touch the floor since it happened twice...
Don't worry too much and try to change the belt with the normal things you change when you change a belt (water pump, tensioner)
If you remove the head you'll need to change the head bolts, gasket, send the head to the machinist, etc.
In short, buy a used motor and swap it (after you changed the t-belt ;) )...
Try with the cheap things first.
Again, I broke 2 belts and everything was fine on a very similar motor then yours so chances that it's the same for you are high, not very very low.
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Most Non-vtec I'ved worked on, when belts snapped, nothing else broke.
Unless you have an after-market cams with extra lift and duration.
But I think you said this CRV was bone stock.
Replace the WP and belt and drive another 160K on it. :noel:
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I've broken a few b18 timing belts as well. It's a myth the engine is trash after a timing belt snaps.
I just had some idiot trying to tell me that when he was looking at a civic I was selling and too lazy to diagnose.
Hell I look on craigslist and buy every engine thats 'blown' when the owner breaks a belt and parts the car out. Have two from that and missed I'm a third when the guy realised people are idiots.
The odds are nothing is damaged enough to matter.
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I can't tell you how many times I have had to put new valves in when the belt breaks. Only once have I just put a new belt on and been fine.
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If the cam stops at the right spot, it won't bend anything. If it has enough momentum to push some valves open as the pistons reach TDC, sure shit will bend.
It's a lot easier to try a belt than swapping the motor. I'd suggest doing a leakdown on the motor and listening for bent valves. Otherwise source a decent VTEC head and swap the head. :noel:
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If the cam stops at the right spot, it won't bend anything. If it has enough momentum to push some valves open as the pistons reach TDC, sure shit will bend.
It's a lot easier to try a belt than swapping the motor. I'd suggest doing a leakdown on the motor and listening for bent valves. Otherwise source a decent VTEC head and swap the head. :noel:
Dont forget your jdm gsr auto ecu
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:noel:(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi259.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fhh319%2Fiburnclothing1%2F4f5bed7e.jpg&hash=7ae4628572c0976393f036be4ff20e030a6bf970)
Have not gotten any further yet. Look at the cam on the right. Belt is loose
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I can't tell you how many times I have had to put new valves in when the belt breaks. Only once have I just put a new belt on and been fine.
B or D? I know on the D they tend to bend the valve easier than on a B.
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If the cam stops at the right spot, it won't bend anything. If it has enough momentum to push some valves open as the pistons reach TDC, sure shit will bend.
It's a lot easier to try a belt than swapping the motor. I'd suggest doing a leakdown on the motor and listening for bent valves. Otherwise source a decent VTEC head and swap the head. :noel:
Dont forget your jdm gsr auto ecu
Nonsense. Adjustable FPR and MSD rpm switch.
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I can't tell you how many times I have had to put new valves in when the belt breaks. Only once have I just put a new belt on and been fine.
B or D? I know on the D they tend to bend the valve easier than on a B.
I wasn't referring to any particular car. I spent a lot of time working in an independent shop that worked on everything.
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So it's possible the timing belt never was changed. Replaced all belts, water pump and she's running again! Thanks for the help
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi259.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fhh319%2Fiburnclothing1%2Fd08d8b11.jpg&hash=be19683125e6b832e69e682e796f7e1b1c46ca5b)
There was another strip of teeth missing off the timing belt not pictured
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Wow, so u just set it back to tdc and throw a new belt on It? Time to do a leak down and make sure everything ok.
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I'm surprised. Glad it worked out
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I'm not surprised, glad it worked out :P
I'm surprised by the missing teeth tho. Mine always snapped.
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I'd do a leak-down test just to make sure there isn't any bent valves, if there is one that is bent even a little it will normally break off over time.