:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: imburne on January 21, 2012, 09:15:04 PM
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So my hx35 came used with zero shaft play. I tried to remove the exhaust housing for cleaning and clocking and noticed two of the four bolts were directly in position of the oil flanges which made them impossible to remove. Playing with heat a month later Im seeing that I probably could of tried to throw the torch on it for a few and try to rotate it. Anyhow I installed it and the inlet/outlet are angled, but I tried to do my best with the drain to compensate for the degree its at.
I didn't use any thread tape at all and I can see its coming from the turbo side.
The inlet side of the turbo is facing down for a visual reference as I could not get much of a picture
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi259.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fhh319%2Fiburnclothing1%2F795ad6ec.jpg&hash=f8aac4540ca215cdaf9f7a5e6a9b6c0f675ee8fe)
View from drivers side
Passenger side view of drain
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi259.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fhh319%2Fiburnclothing1%2F3bac1e6b.jpg&hash=4131bdbfa2952e3d9eaaefa99ef5d03648774aba)
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Every turbo that ever gave me trouble with clocking got the WD-40 treatment..... See if you cant loosen the 2 bolts and take out the other 2... Then WD and some effort... :noel:
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Oh all bolts were loose but two were not able to come off completely because they hit the oil inlet and outlet flanges. I pulled them out as far as possible and used a rubber mallet to loosen and move the exhaust side from the middle section of the turbo to clock it, but it was a no go. I was thinking it could of been loosened then clocked this way and now stuck. I would have to redo the downpipe but with how many times I have already welded on it, it wouldnt be that big a deal.
Only way I seen taking off those two were to cut them which I actually attempted but the blades I had would not reach. After banging away at it after leaving it soaked in pb blaster, I figured I would stop before I damaged it somehow. No heat applied at the time to assist in breaking it loose if it was even possible with those bolts in place and very close to all the way out
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I had the same prob with the h1c I propane torched it for 20 min then hit it with the bfh and clocked it.
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If you cant clock it with the all the bolts loose then your either doing it wrong or not trying hard enough...
:P
Id say get em all loose... Spray with PD/WD.. Drink a beer... spray again... Drink a beer... apply some heat... Use the beer muscles to clock turbo.... :-\
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If you cant clock it with the all the bolts loose then your either doing it wrong or not trying hard enough...
:P
Id say get em all loose... Spray with PD/WD.. Drink a beer... spray again... Drink a beer... apply some heat... Use the beer muscles to clock turbo.... :-\
After all that smoke a bowl after your accomplishment of clock that beast. :noel:
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OR!.....He can mail it to me.... Ill put it on my s10... :evil:
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Everyone seems to think its the clocking of it that would make it do this. Will try to do it soon and see if it fixes the leak issue. Any more suggestions feel free to post as its going to be at least day or so before trying to do this. Thanks
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Maybe teflon tape the threads?
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I teflon the drain threads and aluminum with rubber oring crush washer on inlet.
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Yeah what fitting are u using for the inlet feed? It normal uses a fitting that uses a crush washer/oring style.
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Yeah what fitting are u using for the inlet feed? It normal uses a fitting that uses a crush washer/oring style.
This.
It is either an M14x1.5 or an M12x1.5 female inverted flare fitting depending on what it came off of. I have made some hokey things work in the past, but it is best to just go to a hydraulic shop with the turbo, and get the proper $2 fitting. They should have metric inverted flare to JIC (JIC is the steel hydraulic equivalent of AN).
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You shouldn't have to remove the bolts to clock it, just loosen them. Most turbos will end up with oiling issues if the inlet is set more than 30 degrees from vertical (both side-side and forward-backward).
Your inlet prob is likely just using the wrong thread. If you use a tapered thread (seals with threads) on a parallel thread (seals with crush washer or o-ring), you will always have problems.
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/150554741335?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/150554741335?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/150554741335?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/150554741335?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649)
Is this the same for the He351ve?
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You got me Russ. I just know that this fits my hx35. Measure you threads, and hole diameter and see. Or get a bolt with the same thread pitch and size to double check. It's a straight thread like a bolt, not a tapered one like pipe thread. and mine seals with a crush washer.
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Ok so teflon tape and a crush washer did the job. I did notice some white smoke though which I didn't get last time. Thinking it needs to be clocked for sure now. Thanks all for chiming in
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nice little trick I like using since Im poor. Anything you want to break loose that is being total bitch due to rust go the side of your house and get the leftover oil from your oil changes
dump used oil in a bucket. Dump item in used oil for atleast a day more if you have the time. Works everytime and the price FREE!!!!!!!!!