:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: 92CXyD on February 05, 2012, 02:29:49 PM
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I have been asked to get order parts for a friend.
He wants to build a low boost B17a, w/ new pistons, forge rods, bearings and gaskets.
Using http://zealautowerks.com/bseries.html (http://zealautowerks.com/bseries.html) and knowing how hard it is find 132mm (b17a length) and 134mm rods are closes I can find for budget.
Looking for the low comp. 81mm vitaras and not finding them.
Found these http://www.ebay.com/itm/YCP-Honda-Civic-B16A-DOHC-Turbo-Pistons-Rings-81-5MM-/180761745361?hash=item2a163d57d1&item=180761745361&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/YCP-Honda-Civic-B16A-DOHC-Turbo-Pistons-Rings-81-5MM-/180761745361?hash=item2a163d57d1&item=180761745361&pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr)
But they are 0.5mm o/s, what are some other choices are there?
All I can find pistons that will make his engine above 11:1 w/ 134mm rods. :noel:
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just put a 77.4mm crank in it.
either way its gonna be slow.
on second though.... "LOW BOOST".... why the fuck are you building the motor? just boost it. tune it good. shitty tune is gonna break a forged motor too.
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just put a 77.4mm crank in it.
either way its gonna be slow.
on second though.... "LOW BOOST".... why the fuck are you building the motor? just boost it. tune it good. shitty tune is gonna break a forged motor too.
It needs a rebuild burning a bit of oil. :noel:
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Buy a ls for the price it would cost to rebuilt the bottom end and slap the head on it.
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If you want aftermarket rods for a B17, you are gonna have to bend over and take it in the ass from Crower. They are the only ones who offer an OTS set of rods for that application. I would imagine that having a set made though just about anybody else is gonna cost more. I could be wrong. Either that or use 137 mm center to center rods, and have some semi custom pistons made.
If you are doing a low boost bitch build, then just run the stock stuff. What the hell is the point in wasting money on forged rods and pistons?
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Buy a ls for the price it would cost to rebuilt the bottom end and slap the head on it.
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if your really wanting to keep the B17 just get some fresh B16/ITR pistons, along with fresh bearings/etc
and/or just swap that shit out...
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if your really wanting to keep the B17 just get some fresh B16/ITR pistons, along with fresh bearings/etc
and/or just swap that shit out...
I'l tell him to either use the spare b16 crank I have laying around, w/ forge 134mm rods and pr3-ish pistons (10.29:1),
Or do a stock crank w/ 134mm rods, and pr4-ish pistons (11:1 comp)
But on either piston type, they are press in and the forge rods are not, so wouldn't have mod the pistons or rods?
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Buy a ls for the price it would cost to rebuilt the bottom end and slap the head on it.
RPM is over-rated. He'll have a bunch more torque with an 89mm crank, and can probably sell the b17 for more than what he'll get a B18A/B for. Plus if it's a B18B it's certain to be newer, and milage isn't an issue since it's getting built.
In the end he'll be better off with a B18 bottom end. You're already going to have an oil feed for the turbo, so making an LS/V will be easy enough.
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Guys can he use oem type pistons with the forge rods?
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W/o extra work NO. If he rebushes the rods to press fit or machines the rods for clips it would work.
The real question is WHY. The piston [ringlands] are the wealer link. If he wants to avoid forged piston cost, have him get some NPR pistons for a GSR or LS. With stock everything & 3-layer HG, GSR = 9.5:1, LS = 9:1. Add a full point if he uses a B18A/B block.
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i would just hang ls pistons on stock rods and use arp fasteners lower comp cheap and will take plenty of power.
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PR4 pistons dont have big enough valve relieves for BVTEC valves...
learn to tune/find a good tuner.
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PR4 pistons dont have big enough valve relieves for BVTEC valves...
learn to tune/find a good tuner.
Seriously?
Ive been driving around in my b18a with b16 head for a couple hundred miles breaking it in. That would be shitty if I need to pull it all back apart.
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PR4 pistons dont have big enough valve relieves for BVTEC valves...
learn to tune/find a good tuner.
Seriously?
Ive been driving around in my b18a with b16 head for a couple hundred miles breaking it in. That would be shitty if I need to pull it all back apart.
yes. non-VTEC has 28mm intake valves, BVTEC has 32mm. i have seen several PR4 and forged copies with light tap marks from the intake valves.
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A dremel will do the reliefs wonders since the pistons will be out. Mix in a cheap syringe marked in CC's and a chunk of flat plastic/plexi and you're set. You don't have to get exact numbers, just make sure all pistons change by the same CC amount.