:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Hybrid/Tech => Topic started by: That Guy on April 15, 2009, 09:29:45 PM
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(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fll50%2Fxyltec%2Fparts%2FIMG00062.jpg&hash=8a3a3d443c99ea480fabb5aeeeee94d63eefdb38)
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi285.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fll50%2Fxyltec%2Fparts%2FIMG00063.jpg&hash=5f1c9ebc138391149cbe829d936e7f1514dc46e1)
Did i fuck up this block or have i not ground deep enough, its about 3/4" wide and 1/4" deep and 1/4" over
Thanks again guys, build thread coming soon if my damn pistons would hurry up and get here
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Looks good to me. 8)
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Sweet, thanks for the tip with the ringless piston, never would have thought of that. I thought it should be enough, and im thinking now its the machine shops problem if its not enough. Thanks
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I did mine today and it looks the same as yours. Dont forget if you use the ARP 2000 rod bolts you need to notch the girdle.
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oh shit i totally forgot about the girdle Thanks man damn that would have been no good, like when you wake up and the fat girl next to you is not only fat but ugly too
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oh shit i totally forgot about the girdle Thanks man damn that would have been no good, like when you wake up and the fat girl next to you is not only fat but ugly too
and sleeping on your arm.
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...at your own place :'(
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I did mine today and it looks the same as yours. Dont forget if you use the ARP 2000 rod bolts you need to notch the girdle.
I didn't have to do that to mine. And I had it out once after building it, and still no hitting. Maybe the newer 94+ blocks had thicker girdles, mine was a 92 and had enough clearance. If your girdle or crank stretches 1/16-1/32" to close that gap, you have OTHER issues. Pistons expand less than 1/128" from heat, and thats when they have >1500*F gasses pressing on them.
BTW make sure you debur the edges. You don't want any cracks starting from those points.
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you can sit a crank on some junk bearings and a ringless piston to know for sure if youre that worried about it
that is the absolute best way.
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on my jdm d15b i didn't have to notch the girdle with my fjt rods and ARP 2000 rod bolts O0
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OMGZ!!!!11s
why would you mess up a perfectly good block liek that. this is what your suposed to do.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi38.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe140%2Fjlicrx%2Fnotchedrods.jpg&hash=a9a354c05179b2996995d938829af29432fa1f88)
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I built a 95 Z6 (in my car now) and didn't have to notch the girdle.
You don't always have to. On one Z6 built when I used TT rods and ARP 8740 bolts I didn't need to notch the girdle. On another build I used scat rods with ARP 2000 bolts and had to notch it.
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OMGZ!!!!11s
why would you mess up a perfectly good block liek that. this is what your suposed to do.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi38.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe140%2Fjlicrx%2Fnotchedrods.jpg&hash=a9a354c05179b2996995d938829af29432fa1f88)
hahahahahahahahahahaha
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flt i beams, arp 2000 bolts, 93 z6 block, no girdle notching here. it was close but had probably .050" clearance or more. never tried with the filler gauge and it spun freely
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I wonder if that guy cut those equally between all 4 to keep the weight balanced :P I wonder even more if he used them...
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OMGZ!!!!11s
why would you mess up a perfectly good block liek that. this is what your suposed to do.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi38.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fe140%2Fjlicrx%2Fnotchedrods.jpg&hash=a9a354c05179b2996995d938829af29432fa1f88)
haha that is pretty sweet :yes:
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lol, i should post them up for sale on HT under a fake name and see if any retards actually say they want them. i wonder what the fuck the guy was thinking while doing it lol. hahaha, was probly thinking hes onto some new shit, "wait till they see that i found an easir way to get them to fit in my D, suckers. im an innovator"
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They will still be stronger then stock D rods... :P