:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => Forced Induction => Topic started by: imburne on May 28, 2012, 10:38:46 PM
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Having major piston slap on a b18 with stock bore weiscos at idle and low rpm. Does not go away running the car over time either. Cylinder was not measured for piston to wall clearance. Stock bore on 100k block. The cylinders were honed with a crappy three stone for about 45 seconds total in each cylinder.
Too much clearance or not enough? I will post up some cold and hot videos of the engine if needed and possibly some large chested women.
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Block heater will shorten the time for engine warmup.
Had to do that for my last motor to make the slap a little more tolerable. :noel:
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Probably out of round. Why would you build it and not check tolerances first?
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Probably out of round. Why would you build it and not check tolerances first?
really? i never have.
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If youre sure its the skirts slapping around and it doesnt stop or at least go almost all the way away by the time the needle starts to move, youve got problems. Mines at .0055, and its gone after 2 minutes max, 45 seconds? And you dont know where it was to start?
You O0
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If youre sure its the skirts slapping around and it doesnt stop or at least go almost all the way away by the time the needle starts to move, youve got problems. Mines at .0055, and its gone after 2 minutes max, 45 seconds? And you dont know where it was to start?
You O0
Russ, I love you ... But youre not equiped for this discussion... block warmer, nigger pleaseWOrn out block, heavy hone.. Me thinks youre fucked, but you need to measure to see... Pull off head take pics....
If the walls are scratched, youll know which way it went... Pretty sure you have an ide already
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If youre sure its the skirts slapping around and it doesnt stop or at least go almost all the way away by the time the needle starts to move, youve got problems. Mines at .0055, and its gone after 2 minutes max, 45 seconds? And you dont know where it was to start?
You O0
Russ, I love you ... But youre not equiped for this discussion... block warmer, nigger pleaseWOrn out block, heavy hone.. Me thinks youre fucked, but you need to measure to see... Pull off head take pics....
If the walls are scratched, youll know which way it went... Pretty sure you have an ide already
Fuck you
That was the old motor, we went 0.0045" ptw on all cyl except one I had 0.0055".
BTW the skirts had little scratches and cylinders looked good.
Scrapped the block because of 3 fucked cranks and it leaked oil too much and it was unfixable. :noel:
Latest motor 0.004" on all cyl. :noel:
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Mine was at .0035, b4 the teflon wore off my Wiseco pistons Im sure its more now. Sounds pretty rattley on my 81.50mm b18 Until it fully warms up. Thats including the oil warming up to full temp too. SO I would say full warm, and then 10min of driving. But then again I'm listing for any little clatter at all. I also Check my p2w b4 I didn any thing with it. Build it right, and youll only have to built it once.
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.0035 or .0045 or even .0055 isn't that big of clearance anyone who has shoved std vitara's into a high mile D16 know's the meaning of slop. We did one that was ~ .0070! it rattled like a bitch until it was warm, but really wasn't any different sounding at that point.
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bitches please...
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi234.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fee89%2Fchillnnsht%2Fphoto-6.jpg&hash=add6ec005e2f23f87883347d74e5c5673a3fb505)
this got me from VA to Atlanta (9 hrs) and back 3 days later. Slapped when cold, never went away, ran good. I took the head off to do the HG. Oval cylinders ftw. I also drove this back and forth to work 100 plus miles a day so I probably had 25 or 30k on it. Who knows how long it was egged out though..
ps fuck your mothers
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Im at .055 im sure by now. old motor was .006
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As was pointed out by the picture, typically it is cylinders that are no longer round, where the slap sound never goes away. Not excessively large ptw gaps.
On some of the full fill block and head engines I build we go as loose as 0.09, but without coolant and only oil there are times they get pretty warm.
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Holy shit mine just went from being loud to sounding like complete shit. Something is wrong captain.. Proceed to light speed (just keep it under vtec)
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh319/iburnclothing1/63de27c6.mp4 (http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh319/iburnclothing1/63de27c6.mp4)
Should get to tearing her apart in the next month or so. Tapped out at the moment
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That sounds more like rod/main bearing or something like the such, IMO... I'm assuming the camera inside the cabin quiets it down some.
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That sounds more like rod/main bearing or something like the such
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That sounds more like rod/main bearing or something like the such
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I've seen valve clearance adjusting nuts come loose and make noise like that.
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That sounds more like rod/main bearing or something like the such
When the middle main bearing went out in my car in the first motor, it sounded like that, in fact, if you got the ground speed and throttle just right, it wouldn't rattle at all, but all the while it was continuing to fuck the crank, and then the block, all to shit....
My advice, drop pan, check rod/main bearings before the block/crank/rods potentially become paperweights, or run the cock off it and wait for the motor to put its own window in the block, then you'll know exactly what was wrong... :noel:
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Been very busy but finally had some time to take the head off for inspection. First thing I notice was the metal in the pan. About a nickle sized chunk. I take off the girdle and plate to look into the engine and sure enough I notice #4 piston is toast on the bottom where the wrist pin is. Wrist pin floated to the side and made the mark you see here. I will take more pics of the carnage later.
(https://realhomemadeturbo.com/forum/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi259.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fhh319%2Fiburnclothing1%2F28c3fd19.jpg&hash=950da23caf1aefa77cb99afdf73636f7f1f26c6d)
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Could be my phone, but do the tops of your sleeves look fucked?
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On my current motor, one cylinder is .083 p2w. Oem pistons/rods. You can hear that cylinder, sounds like motor has a slight knock. Has always sounded like that. Hasn't gotten worse, an no damages seen when I did both head swap/upgrades.
Boosted for 30k+ miles.
I made sure I honed them back into round though.
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Bad install.........
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Is there a section of piston missing, or did the spiral lock/clip come out? It would be roughly nickle-sized.
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just hone it slap it back together. dont need to be perfect just so the rings dont catch.