:::RHMT::: Real Home Made Turbo
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: bouncinofftherevlimiter on May 31, 2012, 11:41:09 PM
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OK, a couple weeks ago, my car dropped both exhaust valves on cyl #3, the keepers finally gave up, after years of pounding the rev limiter, so i pulled the head off, replaced the bent valves, and replaced all the retainers and keepers.
I put the whole car back together, and now it won't run for shit, actually runs worse now than it did with one cyl completely dead.
What it is doing is, it'll fire up, and just misses and sputters, hardly idles, backfires and pops, have to keep "pumping the throttle to get it to rev at all, and it won't go past like 2500, it i hold it to the floor, it slowly loses RPM and just runs like total buttonhole. No real difference in pinching return line either.
what i have checked so far, Compression, wiring, injectors, spark, firing order, timing belt timing, valve lash, distributor location, turbo, and pretty much everything else i can think of. all i did was remove head, replace broken parts and did all retainers and keepers and reinstalled.
Is it possible it is maybe like MAP or TPS took a shit on me???
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How is the valve lash?
mechanical valve timing? did belt jump?
What is compression testing telling ya? :noel:
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Is it possible it is maybe like MAP or TPS took a shit on me???
nope. way more likely you plugged them in backwards....seriously. swap them/unplug one and see what code it throws...
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How is the valve lash?
mechanical valve timing? did belt jump?
What is compression testing telling ya? :noel:
valve lash is set to spec, .006 ex .005 int IIRC
Cam timing has been rechecked 2x, its spot on...
compression test reads consistent across all 4, at like 125, which is around where it has always been since the motor was new...
Is it possible it is maybe like MAP or TPS took a shit on me???
nope. way more likely you plugged them in backwards....seriously. swap them/unplug one and see what code it throws...
Checked that too, wouldn't run at all, immediately died, and i looked up wiring diagram, i was right the first time...
any other ideas? this car is doing an awesome job at pissing me off...
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AFR gauge say?
Any Spark lose?
Fuel pressure ok?
When it dies is it a studder or like a on/off switch?
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AFR gauge say?
Any Spark lose?
Fuel pressure ok?
When it dies is it a studder or like a on/off switch?
Cant keep it running long enough to get the wideband to heat up and work
no spark loss that i can see when i checked with plug grounded to motor
don't have a FP gauge, but when i pinched the return line, it didn't run any different...
when it dies, it stalls, just blah dead
the crazy thing is, car ran flawless before it dropped valve(s) and it only dropped both exhaust valves on cyl #3, and actually ran semi decent, i could at least move it under its own power and it would idle, considering it had 0 psi in the cyl when i did compression test... all i did was replace junk, put it back together and it runs 100X worse than it did.... now its total shit, like its running on maybe 2 cyl?
when i first got it running, only cyl 3&4 were making any heat in the ex manifold, i pulled all injectors and blew them all out with carb cleaner, swapped them from left to right and now all 4 pipes are warm, but it dosent run any better....
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What does the sparkplugs look like, if you can keep it running for a minute or two?
What other observations do you notice?
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What does the sparkplugs look like, if you can keep it running for a minute or two?
What other observations do you notice?
a little rich, but nothing that would cause this type of situation...
i dunno honestly, i fought it all day and its really fried my brain...
OH, i did notice there wasn't much vacuum when it was running and the split second it would idle...
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my buddy killed his built gsr, pulled, rebuilt, ran like complete ass, tryed everything, came and got my dizzy, perfect. What happened? who knows. I put a coil and igniter in it same shit, no codes, still running my dizzy acually...........
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my buddy killed his built gsr, pulled, rebuilt, ran like complete ass, tryed everything, came and got my dizzy, perfect. What happened? who knows. I put a coil and igniter in it same shit, no codes, still running my dizzy acually...........
Ill have another one to try tonight...
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Ok, today i actually had an extra hand to help, so here is goes...
i swapped dizzy, no change. the car was just the opposite of before though, with cyl 3&4 hot on mani vs 1&2, but i also swapped injectors the other day from left to right, so now I'm thinking injectors. i kept the car running and a friend pulled plug wires, the cold cyls made no difference with wire removed, but car would stutter and almost die with hot cyls wires removed. made sense to me. so I'm thinking, swap injectors, so i get 450s i had laying around, put those in, and car still runs the same, although a lot richer, obviously....
so that ruled out i had him pull MAP sensor off, car damn near dies, but for a split second sounds like its on all 4, and also does the same when you first plug it in.. so that confuses me. next up i have the OBD2 F20B ecu with conversion harness laying around, so thought id try that, cause it can't really hurt at this point. so i put the PCM in and still runs like dick. unplug MAP and BAM, motherfucker is running on all 4 cyls, its def rich cause its boggy, but at least is running best it has so far....
So.... MAP sensor???
also, it just hit me, if i let the car idle, well it stalls, but keep it in lower RPM it seemed to be fairly smooth and run semi normal, and all 4 pipes would get kinda warm, but if i kept trying to keep it above like 1500-2000, only 2 runners would be warm.
it almost sounds like 2 step sometimes, like maybe the TPS was shit, which kinda leads me to that because OBD2 computer doesn't have 2-step, but it ran better with no MAP, never touched TPS, and no, i don't have MAP and TPS mixed up.
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Put on trailer and drag it down to Sewell's.
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Sounds like a fueling issue to me. I would check the mechanical shit before you fiddle with more wiring. Pump, filter, injectors, tps with a dmm, make sure your timing isn't 180 ° out, make sure you have the right shit plugged in. Pretty sure I've seen someone plug the tps or something into the iacv before on a civic
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Put on trailer and drag it down to Sewell's.
don't threaten me with a good time...
Sounds like a fueling issue to me. I would check the mechanical shit before you fiddle with more wiring. Pump, filter, injectors, tps with a dmm, make sure your timing isn't 180 ° out, make sure you have the right shit plugged in. Pretty sure I've seen someone plug the tps or something into the iacv before on a civic
pump is working, i mean you can hear it
the filter was new before winter
TPS i have a replacement for and will check
timing can't be 180 out, the dizzy won't sit flat against head and i have confirmed it isn't anyways
went over wiring a dozen times, and had a friend also go over it...
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what kind of readings are you seeing in the data log from the map sensor.
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what kind of readings are you seeing in the data log from the map sensor.
No way to datalog, i lost my Hulog during one of my many moves... >:(
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what kind of readings are you seeing in the data log from the map sensor.
No way to datalog, i lost my Hulog during one of my many moves... >:(
If ya get me a v-band clamp to replace the one I broke on the back of the HE351ve I bought from ya, I'll ship ya my spare one. :noel:
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Fuck valve guid catching the valve steam.
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Fuck valve guid catching the valve steam.
so that ruled out i had him pull MAP sensor off, car damn near dies, but for a split second sounds like its on all 4, and also does the same when you first plug it in.. so that confuses me. next up i have the OBD2 F20B ecu with conversion harness laying around, so thought id try that, cause it can't really hurt at this point. so i put the PCM in and still runs like dick. unplug MAP and BAM, motherfucker is running on all 4 cyls, its def rich cause its boggy, but at least is running best it has so far....
it finally ran on all 4 yesterday after fucking around a bunch, so I'm guessing its nothing internal with the motor....
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what kind of readings are you seeing in the data log from the map sensor.
No way to datalog, i lost my Hulog during one of my many moves... >:(
Back probe with a multimeter
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what kind of readings are you seeing in the data log from the map sensor.
No way to datalog, i lost my Hulog during one of my many moves... >:(
Back probe with a multimeter
i can do that... what should a 3 bar voltage be with car off? 1-2volts?
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my guess is that you have an intake leak in the manifold near a gasket area. probably Tb-manifold region or possibly by a runner. i would use an Evap tester tool to see if it's coming out of a spot that you don't know of. or you can do it ghetto and spray carb cleaner around the manifold gasket area when if you are able to get someone of an idle before hand.